Uploaded August 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 day ago
In the right hardwood, a screw head can…
And sometimes in softwood…
The best way around both is to drill a pilot hole. This removes the wood in front of the screw’s solid center, leaving the threads with plenty of wood to bite into.
So what size bit should you use?
You could use the old drill-bit-behind-the-screw method, squint at the two and try to match the bit to the screw’s center…but what you really want is this guy.
A drill bit gauge does a few things. Besides identifying drill bits, besides finding dowel sizes when you forget which dowel is which, and besides taking a chance on damaging it by using it to resize dowels—even if it does work really well—this little guy can gauge screws like nothing else in the shop.
For example, if I just want to make room for the screw’s core in softwood, I push the point into different holes until I find one with very little play when I move the screw around.
This works well for pine and most plywoods because I only want to remove enough wood for the screw’s solid center, while leaving plenty behind for the threads to bite into.
Once I find the fit I want, I match a drill bit to that same hole.But with hardwood, I want a little more play, so I’ll move the screw to a larger hole where I can move it around more freely.
Obviously, I don’t want the threads to slide all the way through. I just want to remove more wood from the screw’s path while still leaving enough for the threads to grip. Since hardwood is denser and firmer, the threads don’t need to bite as deeply to get a strong hold.
Once I find the fit I want, I match a drill bit to that same hole.
If I need the screw to pass freely through the first board and grab the second, I move up the gauge until the threads slide all the way through. Then I match my drill bit to that hole.
And for one more trick, you can even use the gauge to size the head of a flat head screw. Find a hole that’s slightly smaller than the head, match a drill bit to it, and drill a shallow hole. Then switch to the bit needed for the pilot hole and continue drilling.
This gives the screw head a place to go. When I drive it in, the head squeezes down and flattens the little bit of wood left around the edge, letting it sit flush without a countersink bit.
If you’re interested in these, I have links to both an SAE and a metric gauge in the description.
But don’t overlook this wonderful little tool. It can do a lot more than put your drill bits back where they belong.
*Obligatory CYA note: Pilot hole sizes vary with the screw, wood density, and application. Use this method as a starting point, test on scrap, and follow the fastener manufacturer’s specifications for structural work.*
_Link in the description_
Drill bit size gauge
SAE → amzn.to/46x3oKl
Metric → amzn.to/3T6d5wj
As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Like step by step projects? Check out the second channel! → @makethingswithrob
Buy me a beverage! → buymeacoffee.com/makethings ←
Become a patron! → patreon.com/makethings ←
Huge thank you to my patrons that keep this thing going!
*MAKER TEAM*
Michelle B
Keith Current
Rich Lightfoot
Tutor the Barbarian
Aubrey G.
Nukebert
Sam W.
Aaron Knows DIY
G. Salazar
David B.
Marc B.
Richard B.
Ben. K
Bill Patterson
D. Lundman
Make Things
#MakeThings #mtbitesize
In the right hardwood, a screw head can…
And sometimes in softwood…
The best way around both is to drill a pilot hole. This removes the wood in front of the screw’s solid center, leaving the threads with plenty of wood to bite into.
So what size bit should you use?
You could use the old drill-bit-behind-the-screw method, squint at the two and try to match the bit to the screw’s center…but what you really want is this guy.
A drill bit gauge does a few things. Besides identifying drill bits, besides finding dowel sizes when you forget which dowel is which, and besides taking a chance on damaging it by using it to resize dowels—even if it does work really well—this little guy can gauge screws like nothing else in the shop.
For example, if I just want to make room for the screw’s core in softwood, I push the point into different holes until I find one with very little play when I move the screw around.
This works well for pine and most plywoods because I only want to remove enough wood for the screw’s solid center, while leaving plenty behind for the threads to bite into.
Once I find the fit I want, I match a drill bit to that same hole.But with hardwood, I want a little more play, so I’ll move the screw to a larger hole where I can move it around more freely.
Obviously, I don’t want the threads to slide all the way through. I just want to remove more wood from the screw’s path while still leaving enough for the threads to grip. Since hardwood is denser and firmer, the threads don’t need to bite as deeply to get a strong hold.
Once I find the fit I want, I match a drill bit to that same hole.
If I need the screw to pass freely through the first board and grab the second, I move up the gauge until the threads slide all the way through. Then I match my drill bit to that hole.
And for one more trick, you can even use the gauge to size the head of a flat head screw. Find a hole that’s slightly smaller than the head, match a drill bit to it, and drill a shallow hole. Then switch to the bit needed for the pilot hole and continue drilling.
This gives the screw head a place to go. When I drive it in, the head squeezes down and flattens the little bit of wood left around the edge, letting it sit flush without a countersink bit.
If you’re interested in these, I have links to both an SAE and a metric gauge in the description.
But don’t overlook this wonderful little tool. It can do a lot more than put your drill bits back where they belong.
*Obligatory CYA note: Pilot hole sizes vary with the screw, wood density, and application. Use this method as a starting point, test on scrap, and follow the fastener manufacturer’s specifications for structural work.*
_Link in the description_
Drill bit size gauge
SAE → amzn.to/46x3oKl
Metric → amzn.to/3T6d5wj
As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Like step by step projects? Check out the second channel! → @makethingswithrob
Buy me a beverage! → buymeacoffee.com/makethings ←
Become a patron! → patreon.com/makethings ←
Huge thank you to my patrons that keep this thing going!
*MAKER TEAM*
Michelle B
Keith Current
Rich Lightfoot
Tutor the Barbarian
Aubrey G.
Nukebert
Sam W.
Aaron Knows DIY
G. Salazar
David B.
Marc B.
Richard B.
Ben. K
Bill Patterson
D. Lundman
Make Things
#MakeThings #mtbitesize
