Training Café #55 - Dealing with an Off Day at the Gym & YOUR Questions Answered @training4climbing
Training Café #55 - Dealing with an Off Day at the Gym & YOUR Questions Answered  @training4climbing
Uploaded January 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 days ago
Ask Coach Hörst anything climbing- or training-related...live at Noon ET (1700 UTC). BRING COFFEE!

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RUNDOWN
0:30 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!
2:30 - SHOUT OUT: Julia Chounardie
4:00 - Eric's thoughts on climbing going "mainstream".
6:30 - MAIN TOPIC: How to respond to an "off day" at the climbing gym. You have 3 choices...
7:50 - Use of auto-regulation to make the workout appropriate for your current state.

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
20:00 - How to organize strength training for a V6 boulderer?
23:00 - How long should a training cycle last?
26:00 - How to best train for long steep routes?
32:35 - Can I train multiple grip positions in a single workout?
39:55 - Any words of wisdom for me after tearing my biceps tendon?
44:10 - I'm three weeks out from a trip to Spain...how should I train leading into the trip?
47:50 - What do you think of my unique pull-up routine?
52:25 - What do you think of deadlift style finger training?
54:40 - How can I prepare my youth climbers for competition skills?

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Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
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Training Café #55 - Dealing with an "Off" Day at the Gym & YOUR Questions Answered

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