Uploaded September 2020 | Updated September 2026, 4 hours ago
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
0:15 - Welcome to a remote TC from Vegas!
1:00 - First, we shall commune with coffee. Raise a cup with me!
1:15 - SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world's top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents--watch videos here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/three-v16-boulders-in-eight-months-by-drew-ruana
1:55 - Incredible Drew has climbed and trained so hard for the past year without injury.
3:20 - Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew's secret here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
5:40 - MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting...and Trusting the Process.
7:00 - The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting...
7:45 - Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly?
9:00 - What type of project routes will make you a better climber?
10:20 - Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts.
10:45 - Example: My project route "Warlords" at Mt. Charleston...and how I approached this route.
15:10 - Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences...then get to work on the crux chunk.
17:45 - Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL!
19:25 - Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence...
21:43 - Step 5: Begin linking chunks...from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground.
23:05 - Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground.
24:00 - The "surprise send" phenomenon!
25:15 - Trust the process and let the send happen organically.
26:17 - What to do if your project becomes stressful...due to lack of progress over several days of work?
27:24 - Learn about my "10-4 Rule" of projecting... trainingforclimbing.com/the-10-4-rule-a-guideline-for-projecting-and-steady-improvement
28: 15 - ************* YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************
28:45 - Question: What time of day does your body most synthesis collagen...in tendons and ligaments? When to train/rehab tendons....and consume collagen to support the process?
32:00 - The value of doing 2 or 3 shorter workouts per day rather than 1 long session.
32:30 - Learn about the tendon training process cycle here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
34:10 - How best to engage in ARC training for climbing-specific endurance?
37:40 - How to train when I don't have access to a climbing gym?
39:22 - How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks?
42:32 - Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week!
43:35 - Is there value in using fascial release tools?
46:00 - Comments about overuse injuries in climbers...
47:17 - What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days?
49:20 - When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe?
50:40 - Use of a DUP training schedule rather than conventional periodization scheme.
51:50 - Learn how I apply a DUP training scheme when I'm climbing most weekends.
55:10 - How can I stay in shape while on a 2-year mission out of country?
************************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
0:15 - Welcome to a remote TC from Vegas!
1:00 - First, we shall commune with coffee. Raise a cup with me!
1:15 - SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world's top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents--watch videos here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/three-v16-boulders-in-eight-months-by-drew-ruana
1:55 - Incredible Drew has climbed and trained so hard for the past year without injury.
3:20 - Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew's secret here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
5:40 - MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting...and Trusting the Process.
7:00 - The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting...
7:45 - Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly?
9:00 - What type of project routes will make you a better climber?
10:20 - Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts.
10:45 - Example: My project route "Warlords" at Mt. Charleston...and how I approached this route.
15:10 - Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences...then get to work on the crux chunk.
17:45 - Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL!
19:25 - Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence...
21:43 - Step 5: Begin linking chunks...from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground.
23:05 - Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground.
24:00 - The "surprise send" phenomenon!
25:15 - Trust the process and let the send happen organically.
26:17 - What to do if your project becomes stressful...due to lack of progress over several days of work?
27:24 - Learn about my "10-4 Rule" of projecting... trainingforclimbing.com/the-10-4-rule-a-guideline-for-projecting-and-steady-improvement
28: 15 - ************* YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************
28:45 - Question: What time of day does your body most synthesis collagen...in tendons and ligaments? When to train/rehab tendons....and consume collagen to support the process?
32:00 - The value of doing 2 or 3 shorter workouts per day rather than 1 long session.
32:30 - Learn about the tendon training process cycle here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
34:10 - How best to engage in ARC training for climbing-specific endurance?
37:40 - How to train when I don't have access to a climbing gym?
39:22 - How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks?
42:32 - Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week!
43:35 - Is there value in using fascial release tools?
46:00 - Comments about overuse injuries in climbers...
47:17 - What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days?
49:20 - When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe?
50:40 - Use of a DUP training schedule rather than conventional periodization scheme.
51:50 - Learn how I apply a DUP training scheme when I'm climbing most weekends.
55:10 - How can I stay in shape while on a 2-year mission out of country?
************************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
