Training Café #45 - Olympic Climbing Analysis...and YOUR Questions Answered! @training4climbing
Training Café #45 - Olympic Climbing Analysis...and YOUR Questions Answered!  @training4climbing
Uploaded August 2021 | Updated September 2026, 7 hours ago
Coach Hörst serves up his analysis of the Olympic finals--the good, the bad, the contrived, and the awesome! This episode concludes with viewer questions answered on....finger training, exercise programming, order of exercise and climbing, and more!

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EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN:
0:10 - Eric's initial thoughts on the Olympic Climbing show in Tokyo.
3:48 - SIP COFFEE with coach Hörst -- climbers around the world unite!
4:20 - Olympic TV and Internet coverage....mediocre. (Meagan Martin good! But the live Internet English feed...bad.)
7:43 - The "combined" format was not ideal...and the scoring system made for crazy result swings during the lead climbing finals. Yes, it was exciting; but this format and scoring didn't really discern the world's best climbers.
16:25 - Janja Garnbet is the GOAT!
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
24:50 - After a max-strength training session, is it okay to do easier "climbing for fun"?
27:27 - Thoughts on finger pulleys that have minor pain?
28:38 - Should I do max hangs before or after a climbing session? (Answer: It depends! Listen for details...)
37:20 - What to do about A2 pulley pain?
43:00 - Adam and Alex are the best outdoor climbers...but didn't fare wekll on the Olympic walls...

Eric gives his final thoughts on the Olympics.

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Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
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Training Café #45 - Olympic Climbing Analysis...and YOUR Questions Answered!

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