Uploaded May 2021 | Updated September 2026, 2 days ago
Eric talks about training and planning for summer season climbing...and he answers a wide range of training questions. Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
1:05 – Eric's approach to training and travel
1:30 – Grab your coffee, and let's sip together! Shoutout Café Kraft for the mug!
2:45 – Training For Climbing book in other languages to cater to the international audience we have on here!
5:15 – Training indoors to travel and climb outdoors
6:20 – Coming back from St.George, Utah
7:10 – Some A2 pulley issues and remedies
9:45 – Consider your schedule and make a game plan!
11:00 – Pay attention to your body! De-load if need be. You can't cram training!
13:00 – Always plan your training with upcoming trips in mind. Perhaps dedicate a multi-week training block if it's a bigger trip!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
13:55 – Hi from Bethlehem, PA! My 7 year old daughter boulders really strong but gets so scared the second she gets a rope on. What advice would you give in helping her overcome this fear?
15:21 – I'm currently getting back into that limit projecting mindset, trying moves that feel totally impossible. How do I know if it is too hard for me currently? Should I simply give the moves time?
18:40 – Is it normal to lose finger strength when you switch to rock climbing while maintaining one or two finger strength sessions per week ? I could hang 145% of my bodyweight and now only 117%.
21:10 – From Australia here, unfortunately won’t be able to make the stream since it’s late. What is a feasible way of staying on the wall 7 days a week? I find it very difficult to stay off it.
25:30 – If you have a bit hyper flexible finger joints, are there any do's and dont's when it comes to finger strength training?
27:08 – I saw your training pdf. Is it really that good to do that big training for strength and power? There are so many exercises.
31:00 – What are your thoughts on iron cross and planche for climbing training? I can only train rings at the moment because of the lockdown. I need some short-term goals for motivation.
32:56 – Any progress on a physivantage distributor in the UK?
33:50 – I cannot climb at all right now. What are the best forearm exercises for climbing?
36:06 – If you could feasibly access outdoor climbing whenever you want (i.e. living in the Red), how would you balance training and climbing? What would your week look like?
41:05 – I just hit 54. Any tips for building strength for an aging climber?
43:17 – I'm in Canada and only have access to outdoor climbing once a week. How do I make the most out of that day?
44:48 – Do you find benefit doing pull-ups on small edges on the hangboard? I find it transfers well to real rock.
46:36 – What kind of doctor should I see for a finger injury?
49:50 – Thanks for tuning in! Let's take one last sip!
*************************
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Eric talks about training and planning for summer season climbing...and he answers a wide range of training questions. Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
1:05 – Eric's approach to training and travel
1:30 – Grab your coffee, and let's sip together! Shoutout Café Kraft for the mug!
2:45 – Training For Climbing book in other languages to cater to the international audience we have on here!
5:15 – Training indoors to travel and climb outdoors
6:20 – Coming back from St.George, Utah
7:10 – Some A2 pulley issues and remedies
9:45 – Consider your schedule and make a game plan!
11:00 – Pay attention to your body! De-load if need be. You can't cram training!
13:00 – Always plan your training with upcoming trips in mind. Perhaps dedicate a multi-week training block if it's a bigger trip!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
13:55 – Hi from Bethlehem, PA! My 7 year old daughter boulders really strong but gets so scared the second she gets a rope on. What advice would you give in helping her overcome this fear?
15:21 – I'm currently getting back into that limit projecting mindset, trying moves that feel totally impossible. How do I know if it is too hard for me currently? Should I simply give the moves time?
18:40 – Is it normal to lose finger strength when you switch to rock climbing while maintaining one or two finger strength sessions per week ? I could hang 145% of my bodyweight and now only 117%.
21:10 – From Australia here, unfortunately won’t be able to make the stream since it’s late. What is a feasible way of staying on the wall 7 days a week? I find it very difficult to stay off it.
25:30 – If you have a bit hyper flexible finger joints, are there any do's and dont's when it comes to finger strength training?
27:08 – I saw your training pdf. Is it really that good to do that big training for strength and power? There are so many exercises.
31:00 – What are your thoughts on iron cross and planche for climbing training? I can only train rings at the moment because of the lockdown. I need some short-term goals for motivation.
32:56 – Any progress on a physivantage distributor in the UK?
33:50 – I cannot climb at all right now. What are the best forearm exercises for climbing?
36:06 – If you could feasibly access outdoor climbing whenever you want (i.e. living in the Red), how would you balance training and climbing? What would your week look like?
41:05 – I just hit 54. Any tips for building strength for an aging climber?
43:17 – I'm in Canada and only have access to outdoor climbing once a week. How do I make the most out of that day?
44:48 – Do you find benefit doing pull-ups on small edges on the hangboard? I find it transfers well to real rock.
46:36 – What kind of doctor should I see for a finger injury?
49:50 – Thanks for tuning in! Let's take one last sip!
*************************
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
