Uploaded October 2021 | Updated September 2026, 4 days ago
Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on finger training (and injuries), building endurance for route climbing, deadlifting for climbing, and more!
Sip coffee with the coach...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
2:15 - Importance never-ending learning...and being willing to change your mind on training concepts. Don't get training advice from a "know-it-all".
3:35 - Eric comments on his recent trip to Germany...and the challenges of climbing in the legendary Frankenjura.
4:50 - How the texture of rock affects how much finger force you must put into the rock to grip a hold. Slippery rock demands higher finger force.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
7:45 - How does recovery differ between having an A2 versus A4 finger pulley injury?
15:50 - What additional training should I do while on a year-long climbing trip?
18:38 - Is using your thumb on a rock hold the same as locking your thumb over the index finger (as in full-crimp gripping)?
21:10 - What are your thoughts on cryotherapy (ice and other cold modalities)?
24:20 - How can I better train to develop route endurance?
28:10 - Any tips for recovery from wrist flexor tendinosis?
31:20 - In deadlifting for climbing, how much strength must I build...how heavy should I go in lifting?
36:05 - If I only have 2 or 3 days per week to train for climbing, what should I focus on doing?
41:45 - How often do you recommend doing a strength assessment?
44:55 - What mobility and other warm-up exercises should I do before training for climbing?
46:50 - How many different grip positions should I train on a hangboard?
48:50 - What climbing and non-climbing books do you recommend?
51:40 - What's the best way to get your kids to learn and love climbing?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on finger training (and injuries), building endurance for route climbing, deadlifting for climbing, and more!
Sip coffee with the coach...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
2:15 - Importance never-ending learning...and being willing to change your mind on training concepts. Don't get training advice from a "know-it-all".
3:35 - Eric comments on his recent trip to Germany...and the challenges of climbing in the legendary Frankenjura.
4:50 - How the texture of rock affects how much finger force you must put into the rock to grip a hold. Slippery rock demands higher finger force.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
7:45 - How does recovery differ between having an A2 versus A4 finger pulley injury?
15:50 - What additional training should I do while on a year-long climbing trip?
18:38 - Is using your thumb on a rock hold the same as locking your thumb over the index finger (as in full-crimp gripping)?
21:10 - What are your thoughts on cryotherapy (ice and other cold modalities)?
24:20 - How can I better train to develop route endurance?
28:10 - Any tips for recovery from wrist flexor tendinosis?
31:20 - In deadlifting for climbing, how much strength must I build...how heavy should I go in lifting?
36:05 - If I only have 2 or 3 days per week to train for climbing, what should I focus on doing?
41:45 - How often do you recommend doing a strength assessment?
44:55 - What mobility and other warm-up exercises should I do before training for climbing?
46:50 - How many different grip positions should I train on a hangboard?
48:50 - What climbing and non-climbing books do you recommend?
51:40 - What's the best way to get your kids to learn and love climbing?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
