Uploaded October 2020 | Updated September 2026, 4 days ago
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
0:15 - Welcome to a remote TC from the Red River Gorge, KY -- let us begin by communing with coffee. Raise a cup with me!
1:15 - Intro to main topic...of breaking into the next level!
1:40 - SHOUT OUT to...Jakob Shubert, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, and Nathaniel Coleman!
2:29 - MAIN TOPIC: What's it take to break into the next level?
5:20 - Importance of properly analyzing the cause of your climbing failures and apparent "limit".
6:10 - Reducing energy leaks (via technical and mental training) is as important as training to get stronger.
8:15 - Cut the lead weights free from your body. Climb free!
9:20 - Other things that limit us? Injury, poor nutrition, lack of sleep, lack of diverse climbing experience, no coaching, poor knowledge of training...or inappropriate training, lack of time to go climbing!
14:00 - My story -- what's my limiting constraint?
18:15 - About my breakthrough send of "Angry Birds" (5.13c/8a+) -- my hardest even ascent...at age 56!
19:45 - We each have a genetic limit, however, it's probably NOT what's currently holding you back from the next grade.
21:45 - Keep an open mind as to what might be holding you back.
********** YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! ***********
22:15 - Question: Concerned about knee pain from heel hooking. Will leg strengthening help?
25:00 - Question: Is consuming whey protein as beneficial for connective tissue health as daily hydrolyzed collagen usage? Learn the optimal intervention for tendon health: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
34:25 - Question: Should I use the 4-3-2-1 training cycle?
36:40 - Additional comments about Angry Birds at the Red River Gorge.
40:40 - Question: What to do about pain in the DIP finger joint?
43:20 - Question: Wondering about training for Midnight Lightning in Yosemite?
46:26 - Question: How to deal with the fear of falling? Watch this video for a deeper discussion on fear. trainingforclimbing.com/coaching-video-managing-the-fear-of-falling
49:26 - Question: How to combine 7-53 hangs with campusing training?
52:29 - Question: As a boulderer, may I skip training the aerobic energy system? More on training aerobic power in this podcast: trainingforclimbing.com/podcast-26-energy-system-training-aerobic-power
55:37 - Question: Is PhysiVantage available in the UK?
56:35 - Question: How concerned should I be about finger pulley tenderness?
1:03:50 - Question: Is it okay to completely fatigue the forearm muscles with barbell exercises after hangboard training?
******************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
0:15 - Welcome to a remote TC from the Red River Gorge, KY -- let us begin by communing with coffee. Raise a cup with me!
1:15 - Intro to main topic...of breaking into the next level!
1:40 - SHOUT OUT to...Jakob Shubert, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, and Nathaniel Coleman!
2:29 - MAIN TOPIC: What's it take to break into the next level?
5:20 - Importance of properly analyzing the cause of your climbing failures and apparent "limit".
6:10 - Reducing energy leaks (via technical and mental training) is as important as training to get stronger.
8:15 - Cut the lead weights free from your body. Climb free!
9:20 - Other things that limit us? Injury, poor nutrition, lack of sleep, lack of diverse climbing experience, no coaching, poor knowledge of training...or inappropriate training, lack of time to go climbing!
14:00 - My story -- what's my limiting constraint?
18:15 - About my breakthrough send of "Angry Birds" (5.13c/8a+) -- my hardest even ascent...at age 56!
19:45 - We each have a genetic limit, however, it's probably NOT what's currently holding you back from the next grade.
21:45 - Keep an open mind as to what might be holding you back.
********** YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! ***********
22:15 - Question: Concerned about knee pain from heel hooking. Will leg strengthening help?
25:00 - Question: Is consuming whey protein as beneficial for connective tissue health as daily hydrolyzed collagen usage? Learn the optimal intervention for tendon health: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendons
34:25 - Question: Should I use the 4-3-2-1 training cycle?
36:40 - Additional comments about Angry Birds at the Red River Gorge.
40:40 - Question: What to do about pain in the DIP finger joint?
43:20 - Question: Wondering about training for Midnight Lightning in Yosemite?
46:26 - Question: How to deal with the fear of falling? Watch this video for a deeper discussion on fear. trainingforclimbing.com/coaching-video-managing-the-fear-of-falling
49:26 - Question: How to combine 7-53 hangs with campusing training?
52:29 - Question: As a boulderer, may I skip training the aerobic energy system? More on training aerobic power in this podcast: trainingforclimbing.com/podcast-26-energy-system-training-aerobic-power
55:37 - Question: Is PhysiVantage available in the UK?
56:35 - Question: How concerned should I be about finger pulley tenderness?
1:03:50 - Question: Is it okay to completely fatigue the forearm muscles with barbell exercises after hangboard training?
******************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
