Uploaded June 2021 | Updated September 2026, 9 hours ago
Eric shares what it takes physically and mentally to achieve the next grade in climbing. He then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
1:30 – Even in the post-covid era in the states, we're continuing with these training cafés.
2:15 – Let's commune over coffee!
2:40 – This episode's shoutout! Congrats to Natalia Grossman on another impressive World Cup win and Sean Bailey on his gold medal!
4:15 – 4 U.S. team back to back medals!
5:00 – TOPIC OF THE DAY: What it takes to "level up". What is takes to send the next grade!
6:00 – How improvement works for new and experienced climbers
9:15 – Eric Horst just recently gained a new grade in this phase of life
10:20 – Be willing to put in the time!
11:05 – Be willing to employ a system for where YOU'RE at. The process is different for each of us.
12:30 – Some common threads for all of us: pick the right route, one you can access frequently, one that caters to your strengths!
15:00 – Different kinds of projects
15:40 – System of working a route
17:30 – Step 1: explore the route; don't worry about sending! Just collect the data.
19:20 – Try and link a few bolts together, then start linking chunks of the route!
22:30 – A big part of sending is efficiency!
25:40 – It can become a mental battle as well!
17:45 – You don't need to quit everything to reach the next grade, but be open to sacrifices!
30:00 – Remember what it feels like to send! Take a "vacation" from your project and just climb for fun!
31:50 – Let go of the outcome and just let it happen!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
33:45 – Any thoughts on benchmarks all climbers should be able to do? Bench press, pull-ups, deadlifts, or anything for general strength?
36:00 – How should I schedule my training in order to send my 5.13 route smoothly?
38:07 – Grades seem to be the most controversial topic at any crag. Do you experience that?
40:08 – Pink-pointing vs. red-pointing
41:50 – In your book, How to Climb 5.12, you talk about HIT training with specific holds. Is this still relevant?
44:22 – I recently left the RRG and didn't send my project. All of the moves felt easy, but I couldn't put it together. I did max-hangs and bouldered prior to the trip. Should I have done repeaters?
45:40 – Any thoughts on 6 on / 10 off x4 weighted hangs? It feels like a nice balance between endurance and strength.
49:30 – I realized that I pull harder when I grunt, but I don't want to look like a "bad dude" or show-off. Should I try to change this or embrace it?
51:35 – Any tips for finger strength gain for someone 50-years-old and up?
54:37 – Do you suggest isometric pulling exercises like front-levers for leading or bouldering?
*************************
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
Eric shares what it takes physically and mentally to achieve the next grade in climbing. He then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
1:30 – Even in the post-covid era in the states, we're continuing with these training cafés.
2:15 – Let's commune over coffee!
2:40 – This episode's shoutout! Congrats to Natalia Grossman on another impressive World Cup win and Sean Bailey on his gold medal!
4:15 – 4 U.S. team back to back medals!
5:00 – TOPIC OF THE DAY: What it takes to "level up". What is takes to send the next grade!
6:00 – How improvement works for new and experienced climbers
9:15 – Eric Horst just recently gained a new grade in this phase of life
10:20 – Be willing to put in the time!
11:05 – Be willing to employ a system for where YOU'RE at. The process is different for each of us.
12:30 – Some common threads for all of us: pick the right route, one you can access frequently, one that caters to your strengths!
15:00 – Different kinds of projects
15:40 – System of working a route
17:30 – Step 1: explore the route; don't worry about sending! Just collect the data.
19:20 – Try and link a few bolts together, then start linking chunks of the route!
22:30 – A big part of sending is efficiency!
25:40 – It can become a mental battle as well!
17:45 – You don't need to quit everything to reach the next grade, but be open to sacrifices!
30:00 – Remember what it feels like to send! Take a "vacation" from your project and just climb for fun!
31:50 – Let go of the outcome and just let it happen!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
33:45 – Any thoughts on benchmarks all climbers should be able to do? Bench press, pull-ups, deadlifts, or anything for general strength?
36:00 – How should I schedule my training in order to send my 5.13 route smoothly?
38:07 – Grades seem to be the most controversial topic at any crag. Do you experience that?
40:08 – Pink-pointing vs. red-pointing
41:50 – In your book, How to Climb 5.12, you talk about HIT training with specific holds. Is this still relevant?
44:22 – I recently left the RRG and didn't send my project. All of the moves felt easy, but I couldn't put it together. I did max-hangs and bouldered prior to the trip. Should I have done repeaters?
45:40 – Any thoughts on 6 on / 10 off x4 weighted hangs? It feels like a nice balance between endurance and strength.
49:30 – I realized that I pull harder when I grunt, but I don't want to look like a "bad dude" or show-off. Should I try to change this or embrace it?
51:35 – Any tips for finger strength gain for someone 50-years-old and up?
54:37 – Do you suggest isometric pulling exercises like front-levers for leading or bouldering?
*************************
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
