Uploaded January 2025 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 What are we going to talk about?
00:40 Prognosis
01:44 Symptoms
03:42 Causes
05:57 Recovery
06:10 Reduce Aggravating Factors
06:59 Range of Motion Work
07:24 Manual Therapy
07:53 Off-the-Wall Tissue Loading
08:44 Static Submax Holds
09:16 Mobile Board Rows
09:39 Recruitment Pulls
10:16 Block Pulls
11:32 Taping
12:03 The most convenient way to recover from IIPT
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 148 - Pulley Thickening in Rock Climbers
hoopersbeta.com/library/injury-induced-pulley-thickening-recovery
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Schreiber T, Allenspach P, Seifert B, Schweizer A. Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers [published correction appears in Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(8):iii. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2015.1126214.]. Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(8):696-702. doi:10.1080/17461391.2015.1048747
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26267120
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts, and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy, of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand that this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 What are we going to talk about?
00:40 Prognosis
01:44 Symptoms
03:42 Causes
05:57 Recovery
06:10 Reduce Aggravating Factors
06:59 Range of Motion Work
07:24 Manual Therapy
07:53 Off-the-Wall Tissue Loading
08:44 Static Submax Holds
09:16 Mobile Board Rows
09:39 Recruitment Pulls
10:16 Block Pulls
11:32 Taping
12:03 The most convenient way to recover from IIPT
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 148 - Pulley Thickening in Rock Climbers
hoopersbeta.com/library/injury-induced-pulley-thickening-recovery
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Schreiber T, Allenspach P, Seifert B, Schweizer A. Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers [published correction appears in Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(8):iii. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2015.1126214.]. Eur J Sport Sci. 2015;15(8):696-702. doi:10.1080/17461391.2015.1048747
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26267120
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts, and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy, of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand that this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy








![How to Fix Anterior Knee Pain for Rock Climbers (Front Knee Pain)
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
#kneepain #climbinginjury #kneerehab
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hoopers Beta T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Resistance Bands: https://amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: https://amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: https://amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): https://amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): https://amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emiles Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jasons Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: https://amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: https://amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro (00:00)
Important Context (00:24)
Part 1: Causes of Anterior Knee Pain (01:11)
Reason #5 (01:20)
Reason #4 (01:50)
Reason #3 (02:23)
Reason #2 (02:54)
Reason #1 (03:33)
Part 2: Strength and Mobility Tests (04:16)
Mobility Test (04:33)
Strength Test (05:00)
Strength + Mobility Test (06:31)
Part 3: Fixing Anterior Knee Pain (07:23)
Fix #1 (07:38)
Fix #2 (08:09)
Fix #3 (08:45)
Fix #3a (08:56)
Fix #3b (09:28)
Fix #3c (10:07)
Fix #3d (10:50)
Final Thoughts and Outro (11:22)
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 89
INTRODUCTION
Do you force yourself to downclimb everything because jumping makes you cringe? Does the thought of a deep drop knee give you nightmares? Do long hikes to the crag leave you walking like Hank Hill’s dad? If you’ve been experiencing frequent pain right around [zoom into knee] here, then you KNEED to check out this video!!
In this episode, we’re talking about the causes, tests, and solutions for anterior knee pain, so you can stop asking your friends to carry your heavy crashpad for you and start hiking, climbing, and jumping like a true kneesovertoesguy fanboy.
AN IMPORTANT NOTE
Before we begin, I need to make one thing clear: the causes of anterior knee pain range wildly, making an exact diagnosis difficult to impossible without evaluation from a professional. As such, this video is not meant to diagnosis a specific pathology, but rather to first explain the most common biomechanical and behavioral causes of anterior knee pain for climbers, then to demonstrate functional mobility and strength tests so you can narrow things down a bit, and finally to provide a set of exercises to help mitigate the issues highlighted by those tests. If you have or suspect a more severe issue like patellofemoral pain syndrome, instability of the patella, or even a big word diagnosis like Chondromalacia Patellae, then please get help from a skilled provider.
PART 1: CAUSES OF ANTERIOR KNEE PAIN
Biomechanical Causes
Anatomical and/or biomechanical causes of anterior knee pain include: limited range of motion, low or untrained tolerance to high loads placed on the knee, imbalances in the strength of the hamstrings vs the quads, and finally imbalances and/or weakness in the foot/ankle as well as the hips. Let’s start with the slightly less common ones and work up to the most common and thus most important.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/why-does-the-front-of-my-knee-hurt-how-to-fix-anterior-knee-pain
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Crowded Gym: https://felixwong.com/2017/06/farewell-to-inner-strength-my-favorite-indoor-rock-gym/
Glutes: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Knee Anatomy: BruceBlaus. When using this image in external sources it can be cited as:Blausen.com staff (2014). Medical gallery of Blausen Medical 2014. WikiJournal of Medicine 1 (2). DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 2002-4436., CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
https://www.instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial/
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy How to Fix Anterior Knee Pain for Rock Climbers (Front Knee Pain)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DGlYW2gRjl8/mqdefault.jpg)

