![The Arsenal of Democracy - Painting WWII US Army Vehicles [How I Paint Things] @SonicSledgehammerStudio](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/TxYhSr6MdfM/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded October 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Support vehicles, prime movers, ambulances and the like aren't miniatures you often see on the gaming table, but they're neat to have in those handful of cases where you can surprise an opponent by putting one down. The beauty of Uncle Sam's arsenal of democracy is that it's all painted more or less the same way, too; whether you're throwing olive drab on a half-track or an M4 tank, the same methods will do the trick!
Keep an eye out on the Wheels of War Kickstarter due to go live soon! kickstarter.com/projects/nightskyminiatures/wheels-of-war-volume-1 I've got a bunch of the Night Sky Miniatures STLs and they're lovely.
If you haven't got a printer, Night Sky Miniatures have a couple licensed printers in the UK: wargaming3d.com/licensed-3rd-party-print-services
00:00 - Intro
01:02 - Priming
01:56 - Painting Time!
11:05 - Decals, Weathering, Finishing Touches
15:20 - The Finished Half-Track
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
US Olive Drab
Canvas (Panzer Aces)
Khaki
Off-White
Flat Red
German Grey
Beige Brown
German Camo Black Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Strong Tone
Dark Tone
CITADEL:
Nurgling Green (Dry)
Terminatus Stone (Dry)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter)
Support vehicles, prime movers, ambulances and the like aren't miniatures you often see on the gaming table, but they're neat to have in those handful of cases where you can surprise an opponent by putting one down. The beauty of Uncle Sam's arsenal of democracy is that it's all painted more or less the same way, too; whether you're throwing olive drab on a half-track or an M4 tank, the same methods will do the trick!
Keep an eye out on the Wheels of War Kickstarter due to go live soon! kickstarter.com/projects/nightskyminiatures/wheels-of-war-volume-1 I've got a bunch of the Night Sky Miniatures STLs and they're lovely.
If you haven't got a printer, Night Sky Miniatures have a couple licensed printers in the UK: wargaming3d.com/licensed-3rd-party-print-services
00:00 - Intro
01:02 - Priming
01:56 - Painting Time!
11:05 - Decals, Weathering, Finishing Touches
15:20 - The Finished Half-Track
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
US Olive Drab
Canvas (Panzer Aces)
Khaki
Off-White
Flat Red
German Grey
Beige Brown
German Camo Black Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Strong Tone
Dark Tone
CITADEL:
Nurgling Green (Dry)
Terminatus Stone (Dry)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter)
![The Arsenal of Democracy - Painting WWII US Army Vehicles [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/TxYhSr6MdfM/mqdefault.jpg "The Arsenal of Democracy - Painting WWII US Army Vehicles [How I Paint Things]
Support vehicles, prime movers, ambulances and the like arent miniatures you often see on the gaming table, but theyre neat to have in those handful of cases where you can surprise an opponent by putting one down. The beauty of Uncle Sams arsenal of democracy is that its all painted more or less the same way, too; whether youre throwing olive drab on a half-track or an M4 tank, the same methods will do the trick!
Keep an eye out on the Wheels of War Kickstarter due to go live soon! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nightskyminiatures/wheels-of-war-volume-1 Ive got a bunch of the Night Sky Miniatures STLs and theyre lovely.
If you havent got a printer, Night Sky Miniatures have a couple licensed printers in the UK: https://www.wargaming3d.com/licensed-3rd-party-print-services/
00:00 - Intro
01:02 - Priming
01:56 - Painting Time!
11:05 - Decals, Weathering, Finishing Touches
15:20 - The Finished Half-Track
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
US Olive Drab
Canvas (Panzer Aces)
Khaki
Off-White
Flat Red
German Grey
Beige Brown
German Camo Black Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Strong Tone
Dark Tone
CITADEL:
Nurgling Green (Dry)
Terminatus Stone (Dry)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter)")
![Painting WWI British Empire Troops - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Tx_lgRI9D4g/mqdefault.jpg "Painting WWI British Empire Troops - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]
Wargames Atlantics range of plastic Great War miniatures expands fairly regularly, with the British Empire represented alongside the French and German forces. Not bad value at all if youre looking to throw down the core of an infantry army! Theres a couple of historical oddities in this British kit, but if you dont mind a little knife work, theyre relatively easily overcome.
This box was my own purchase rather than a review box, but given some of the burgeoning interest Ive seen in gaming the Great War recently, it seemed a waste not to take a closer look at more than just the frames before putting paint to plastic.
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - WWI Equipment Overview
04:16 - Quick Kit Review
07:06 - Basecoats
13:15 - Shading
14:24 - Highlighting
17:11 - The Finished Soldier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud drybrushed with Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. As the paint runs out on your brush, lightly stipple grime and dust on the soldiers boots and puttees. Add tufts to taste, paint base rim in Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
English Uniform
Khaki
Dark Sand
Beige Brown
Leather Brown
Brown Sand
German Grey
Red Leather
Pale Sand
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
CITADEL:
Liberator Gold
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Iron Warriors (Base)
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+")
![Back to the Zone: Speed Painting Anvil Industry STALKER types [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UXOyN4csXOE/mqdefault.jpg "Back to the Zone: Speed Painting Anvil Industry STALKER types [How I Paint Things]
Faces and bases, folks. Its all faces and bases. The rest is just set dressing. Smash out the core of a miniature with some Contrast and drybrushing, and spend time painting the bits that you enjoy!
The Anvil Industry Print on Demand service is just getting started, but its worth checking out if there are any miniatures from the Digital Forge which havent yet made the leap to cast resin: https://anvilindustry.co.uk/?affiliate=sonicsledgehammer
The video where I go overboard in painting a face, hopefully queued up to the right moment! https://youtu.be/TKP_9NXQi_4?si=Do5TqBFaWixEfRqS&t=665
00:00 - Intro
01:04 - Priming
01:34 - Basecoats
07:33 - Shading
08:57 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
11:38 - Basing
13:27 - The Finished Wastelanders
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed Ryza Rust then Eldar Flesh. Paint the base rim in Rhinox Hide, and add tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Zandri Dust (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Zandri Dust (Base)
Creed Camo (Contrast)
Gutrippa Flesh (Contrast)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Snakebite Leather (Contrast)
Ushabti Bone (Layer)
Death Korps Drab (Base)
Dryad Bark (Base)
Iron Warriors (Base)
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
Iron Hands Steel (Layer)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
Mortarion Grime (Shade)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Filthy Cape - for gas masks
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Van Diemens Devils - ANZAC-inspired Sci-Fi Miniatures [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UgzWt50fawI/mqdefault.jpg "Van Diemens Devils - ANZAC-inspired Sci-Fi Miniatures [How I Paint Things]
Whether youre playing Warhammer 40,000 in a club or at home, or any number of other games featuring near- or even far-future science fiction weaponry and equipment, theres a wealth of miniatures manufacturers out there with massive ranges to choose from. Victoria Miniatures is one of them! This video isnt sponsored, I just really like what she does. The Van Diemens Devils have been a long time favourite of mine, but given shipping from Australia... Ive been hesitant to pull the trigger. Now that I can get some of the STLs required to get started on a force, all the better!
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/VictoriaMiniatures
https://victoriaminiatures.com/
00:00 - Intro
01:28 - Priming Notes
01:51 - Basecoats
09:39 - Shading
11:09 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:14 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, drybrushed Dark Sand. Add tufts to taste, paint the base rim XV-88. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Topaz Skin (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Desert Yellow (Fanatic)
Army Green (Fanatic)
Autumn Sage (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Angel Green (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Dark Tone (Wash)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
Brainmatter Beige (for mixing highlights)")
![Quick Tips: Speed Painting Heresy-era World Eaters [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UiSC9HkfTvc/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Tips: Speed Painting Heresy-era World Eaters [How I Paint Things]
The question comes up occasionally on older videos whether or not theres anything Id do differently after a couple of years - either with new techniques or new products becoming available. Sometimes the answer is yes! Rather than go through an entire video on another Marine, though, heres a quick list of just how easy it is to adjust another painting method to blast through World Eaters in no time at all.
When it comes to the True Blood, I found it useful to let the first coat dry, then blob on some bigger, chunkier goops in some spots. The blood around his gorget but not on his helmet was an idea Ive seen in artwork before, where hes bitten someone... aaaand then put his helmet back on. Gross!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud drybrushed with Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. As the paint runs out on your brush, lightly stipple grime and dust on the Marines legs. Add tufts to taste, paint base rim in Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Golden Armour (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Ruddy Fur (Speedpaint)
Poppy Red (Speedpaint)
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Crystal Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
MARINE JUICE MKII:
Equal parts Citadel Reikland Fleshshade, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel Lahmian Medium (with an extra dot of medium for luck!).
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
Outfoxing the Fox Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/")
![Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/V-jz9zVrgyE/mqdefault.jpg "Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]
Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]")
![Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VQ9qwvn364A/mqdefault.jpg "Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]
Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]")
![Shading & Weathering Marines - Cheap Oil Paints FTW! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VpYHvmjBjik/mqdefault.jpg "Shading & Weathering Marines - Cheap Oil Paints FTW! [How I Paint Things]
I might be a brand-new convert to painting with oils, but I have to admit, I am absolutely feeling this style of grime, slime, and muck. Being able to tweak colours, intensity, and fluidity on the fly, then add or remove oil paints within the working time is a blessing.
With the exception of the super-cheap oils (three tubes that will last until the apocalypse for under fifteen euros) the paints here are from @TheArmyPainter Fanatic range - those new metallics in particular are fantastic. I think Greedy Gold might be out for an award in Most Improved!
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Basecoats & Varnish Notes
02:42 - Mixing Oils
03:30 - Applying the Oils
05:07 - And Then, Taking it Off...
10:54 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
12:58 - The Finished Marine
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Spray Primer)
PAINTS:
Eyes - Carmine Dragon (Army Painter Speedpaint)
Green - Army Green (Army Painter Fanatic)
Metallic parts - Gunmetal (Army Painter Fanatic)
Gold/Brass - Greedy Gold (Army Painter Fanatic)
Leather - Bootstrap Brown (Army Painter Fanatic)
Black/Gun Casing - German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
HIGHLIGHTS:
Gold/Brass - True Brass (Army Painter Fanatic)
Metallic parts - Mithril (Army Painter Fanatic)
Armour - Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
Black/Gun Casing - Deep Grey (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASE:
Start with a thin layer of Stirland Mud. Add tufts, then more Stirland Mud, working it into the tufts so they look clogged and grimy. Lightly overbrush a grimy, yellowish brown - Ive used Vallejo Flat Earth - and once dry, dab gloss varnish puddles on the base around the bottom of the tuft clods. Finally drybrush with Orange Ochre or a similar slightly yellowish brown, and done!")
![Simple Plastic Steel Legion - Cadian Head Swaps [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YBQvcezm1ik/mqdefault.jpg "Simple Plastic Steel Legion - Cadian Head Swaps [How I Paint Things]
Ive mentioned in previous videos that the new Cadian plastics work remarkably well as generic troops - the fact theyre carrying plenty of equipment gives them a slightly more prepared look than the previous miniatures did, which can fit in with dozens of potential colour schemes and background ideas for your regiments with just a head swap or two. While well likely never see Steel Legion truly in plastic, that doesnt mean we cant use what weve got access to these days!
Find the heads at https://tinylegend.eu/ - search for Dust and youll find all the different head choices for the Steel Legion-inspired helmets. The M-38A helmets are more like those worn by the original Steel Legion, while the M-35A look more like Stahlhelm. Theres also flexible hoses for single valve masks in the Gas Mask Equipment set, which would likely fit well if you wanted to swap the pack rolls on the plastic Cadians for gas mask filters as well.
Check out The Army Painter Academy guide mentioned here: https://thearmypainter.com/en-de/blogs/explore/the-army-painter-academy-the-steel-legion
00:00 - Intro
00:58 - Miniature Notes
01:47 - Basecoats
09:58 - Shading
11:18 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:16 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Gothic Blue (Fanatic)
Strap Grey (Fanatic - Historical)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Alpha Blue (Fanatic)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, then heavily drybrush with Barren Dune (AP Fanatic), then lightly with Ancient Stone (AP Fanatic). These tufts are Highland Tufts from The Army Painter.")
![Simple Methods, Easy Results - Painting Krieg 158th Siege Regiment [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YREc2toy230/mqdefault.jpg "Simple Methods, Easy Results - Painting Krieg 158th Siege Regiment [How I Paint Things]
The 158th Siege Regiment have come up in requests a few times over the years, so at last its time to tackle one of the iconic classic colour schemes that dates back to the Siege of Vraks book!
Check out https://tinylegend.eu/ for alternative heads and other interesting bits for your Krieg miniatures, either as STLs or printed resin add-ons.
Theres a few other guides on the channel that might prove useful if youre looking to paint your Krieg infantry:
https://youtu.be/Yek5mnfsTEg
https://youtu.be/CjFxrXDHMY8
https://youtu.be/V-jz9zVrgyE
https://youtu.be/Gavh_y-0RSM
https://youtu.be/kMUj1h7zGpE
00:00 - Intro
00:57 - Quick Miniature & Priming Notes
02:07 - Basecoats
09:42 - Shading
10:58 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
13:26 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green (Citadel Spray Primer)
CITADEL:
Nurgling Green (Dry)
Underhive Ash (Dry)
XV-88 (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Warriors (Base)
Balor Brown (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Voodoo Shade (Fanatic Wash)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Tone (Fanatic Wash)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE:
Put down a layer of PVA and sprinkle liberally with basing sand. Let it dry, then paint with thinned-down Vallejo Leather Brown. Once dry, overbrush liberally with Vallejo Flat Earth, then drybrush with Vallejo Tan Yellow. Add dots of PVA and static grass to taste, or use tufts you like.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!")
![Applying the KISS Principle: Keep it Simple, Steve-O! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yek5mnfsTEg/mqdefault.jpg "Applying the KISS Principle: Keep it Simple, Steve-O! [How I Paint Things]
I might be preaching to the choir for a lot of folks, but remember: Theres always a first time youve heard something! If youve never thought of using a coloured primer to get the job done on smashing out armies before, give it a shot. Something as simple as a drybrush and some spot highlights on armour or weapons will work wonders for knocking out an army extremely quickly, whether for the grim darkness of the far future or something more grounded in reality.
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Priming Notes
02:13 - Drybrushing - Adding Texture
03:21 - Soft vs Hard Basecoats
05:48 - A Quick Note on Colour Choices
07:41 - The Final Step - More Texture
09:19 - The Finished Miniatures
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green, Zandri Dust, Mechanicus Standard Grey
DRYBRUSH:
Over Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash (Citadel Dry)
Over Zandri Dust, Tyrant Skull (Citadel Dry)
Over Mechanicus Standard Grey, Longbeard Grey (Citadel Dry)
SOFT BASECOATS:
Webbing, boots, rifle sling: Leather Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask (soft part): Karak Stone (Citadel Layer)
Boots, mask eyes and fittings: Black Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask faceplate: Corax White (Citadel Base)
SONIC TONIC/MARINE JUICE MkIII:
1 bottle of Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
1 bottle of Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
1 bottle of Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
Works out to 3:3:4 ratio if you want to mix a smaller batch, but bottles are easiest!
HARD BASECOATS:
Metallics: Leadbelcher (Citadel Base)
Armour, gun casing: German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Wash: Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
Highlights: Silver (Vallejo Model Air), Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASES:
Urban Base: Layer of PVA followed by sand. Thin down German Camo Black Brown and apply liberally, like a wash. Once dry, heavy overbrush of a mid-tone grey like Basalt Grey. Drybrush lightly with Krieg Khaki. Tiny dots of PVA again under bigger rocks and then add static grass.
Desert Base: Thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paint, then drybrush Dark Sand. Boom, done.
Forest Base: Thick layer of Stirland Mud, heavily drybrushed Golgfag Brown, then lightly with Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste.")
