![Quick Tips: Speed Painting Heresy-era World Eaters [How I Paint Things] @SonicSledgehammerStudio](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UiSC9HkfTvc/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded January 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
The question comes up occasionally on older videos whether or not there's anything I'd do differently after a couple of years - either with new techniques or new products becoming available. Sometimes the answer is yes! Rather than go through an entire video on another Marine, though, here's a quick list of just how easy it is to adjust another painting method to blast through World Eaters in no time at all.
When it comes to the True Blood, I found it useful to let the first coat dry, then 'blob' on some bigger, chunkier goops in some spots. The blood around his gorget but not on his helmet was an idea I've seen in artwork before, where he's bitten someone... aaaand then put his helmet back on. Gross!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud drybrushed with Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. As the paint runs out on your brush, lightly stipple grime and dust on the Marine's legs. Add tufts to taste, paint base rim in Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Golden Armour (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Ruddy Fur (Speedpaint)
Poppy Red (Speedpaint)
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Crystal Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
MARINE JUICE MKII:
Equal parts Citadel Reikland Fleshshade, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel Lahmian Medium (with an extra dot of medium for luck!).
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
"Outfoxing the Fox" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
The question comes up occasionally on older videos whether or not there's anything I'd do differently after a couple of years - either with new techniques or new products becoming available. Sometimes the answer is yes! Rather than go through an entire video on another Marine, though, here's a quick list of just how easy it is to adjust another painting method to blast through World Eaters in no time at all.
When it comes to the True Blood, I found it useful to let the first coat dry, then 'blob' on some bigger, chunkier goops in some spots. The blood around his gorget but not on his helmet was an idea I've seen in artwork before, where he's bitten someone... aaaand then put his helmet back on. Gross!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud drybrushed with Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. As the paint runs out on your brush, lightly stipple grime and dust on the Marine's legs. Add tufts to taste, paint base rim in Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Golden Armour (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Ruddy Fur (Speedpaint)
Poppy Red (Speedpaint)
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Crystal Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
MARINE JUICE MKII:
Equal parts Citadel Reikland Fleshshade, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel Lahmian Medium (with an extra dot of medium for luck!).
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
"Outfoxing the Fox" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
![Quick Tips: Speed Painting Heresy-era World Eaters [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UiSC9HkfTvc/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Tips: Speed Painting Heresy-era World Eaters [How I Paint Things]
The question comes up occasionally on older videos whether or not theres anything Id do differently after a couple of years - either with new techniques or new products becoming available. Sometimes the answer is yes! Rather than go through an entire video on another Marine, though, heres a quick list of just how easy it is to adjust another painting method to blast through World Eaters in no time at all.
When it comes to the True Blood, I found it useful to let the first coat dry, then blob on some bigger, chunkier goops in some spots. The blood around his gorget but not on his helmet was an idea Ive seen in artwork before, where hes bitten someone... aaaand then put his helmet back on. Gross!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud drybrushed with Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. As the paint runs out on your brush, lightly stipple grime and dust on the Marines legs. Add tufts to taste, paint base rim in Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Golden Armour (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Ruddy Fur (Speedpaint)
Poppy Red (Speedpaint)
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Crystal Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
MARINE JUICE MKII:
Equal parts Citadel Reikland Fleshshade, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel Lahmian Medium (with an extra dot of medium for luck!).
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
Outfoxing the Fox Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/")
![Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/V-jz9zVrgyE/mqdefault.jpg "Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]
Batch Painting Valor Korps Infantry - Drybrushing & Shades [How I Paint Things]")
![Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VQ9qwvn364A/mqdefault.jpg "Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]
Star Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]")
![Shading & Weathering Marines - Cheap Oil Paints FTW! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VpYHvmjBjik/mqdefault.jpg "Shading & Weathering Marines - Cheap Oil Paints FTW! [How I Paint Things]
I might be a brand-new convert to painting with oils, but I have to admit, I am absolutely feeling this style of grime, slime, and muck. Being able to tweak colours, intensity, and fluidity on the fly, then add or remove oil paints within the working time is a blessing.
With the exception of the super-cheap oils (three tubes that will last until the apocalypse for under fifteen euros) the paints here are from @TheArmyPainter Fanatic range - those new metallics in particular are fantastic. I think Greedy Gold might be out for an award in Most Improved!
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Basecoats & Varnish Notes
02:42 - Mixing Oils
03:30 - Applying the Oils
05:07 - And Then, Taking it Off...
10:54 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
12:58 - The Finished Marine
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Spray Primer)
PAINTS:
Eyes - Carmine Dragon (Army Painter Speedpaint)
Green - Army Green (Army Painter Fanatic)
Metallic parts - Gunmetal (Army Painter Fanatic)
Gold/Brass - Greedy Gold (Army Painter Fanatic)
Leather - Bootstrap Brown (Army Painter Fanatic)
Black/Gun Casing - German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
HIGHLIGHTS:
Gold/Brass - True Brass (Army Painter Fanatic)
Metallic parts - Mithril (Army Painter Fanatic)
Armour - Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
Black/Gun Casing - Deep Grey (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASE:
Start with a thin layer of Stirland Mud. Add tufts, then more Stirland Mud, working it into the tufts so they look clogged and grimy. Lightly overbrush a grimy, yellowish brown - Ive used Vallejo Flat Earth - and once dry, dab gloss varnish puddles on the base around the bottom of the tuft clods. Finally drybrush with Orange Ochre or a similar slightly yellowish brown, and done!")
![Simple Plastic Steel Legion - Cadian Head Swaps [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YBQvcezm1ik/mqdefault.jpg "Simple Plastic Steel Legion - Cadian Head Swaps [How I Paint Things]
Ive mentioned in previous videos that the new Cadian plastics work remarkably well as generic troops - the fact theyre carrying plenty of equipment gives them a slightly more prepared look than the previous miniatures did, which can fit in with dozens of potential colour schemes and background ideas for your regiments with just a head swap or two. While well likely never see Steel Legion truly in plastic, that doesnt mean we cant use what weve got access to these days!
Find the heads at https://tinylegend.eu/ - search for Dust and youll find all the different head choices for the Steel Legion-inspired helmets. The M-38A helmets are more like those worn by the original Steel Legion, while the M-35A look more like Stahlhelm. Theres also flexible hoses for single valve masks in the Gas Mask Equipment set, which would likely fit well if you wanted to swap the pack rolls on the plastic Cadians for gas mask filters as well.
Check out The Army Painter Academy guide mentioned here: https://thearmypainter.com/en-de/blogs/explore/the-army-painter-academy-the-steel-legion
00:00 - Intro
00:58 - Miniature Notes
01:47 - Basecoats
09:58 - Shading
11:18 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:16 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Gothic Blue (Fanatic)
Strap Grey (Fanatic - Historical)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Alpha Blue (Fanatic)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, then heavily drybrush with Barren Dune (AP Fanatic), then lightly with Ancient Stone (AP Fanatic). These tufts are Highland Tufts from The Army Painter.")
![Simple Methods, Easy Results - Painting Krieg 158th Siege Regiment [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YREc2toy230/mqdefault.jpg "Simple Methods, Easy Results - Painting Krieg 158th Siege Regiment [How I Paint Things]
The 158th Siege Regiment have come up in requests a few times over the years, so at last its time to tackle one of the iconic classic colour schemes that dates back to the Siege of Vraks book!
Check out https://tinylegend.eu/ for alternative heads and other interesting bits for your Krieg miniatures, either as STLs or printed resin add-ons.
Theres a few other guides on the channel that might prove useful if youre looking to paint your Krieg infantry:
https://youtu.be/Yek5mnfsTEg
https://youtu.be/CjFxrXDHMY8
https://youtu.be/V-jz9zVrgyE
https://youtu.be/Gavh_y-0RSM
https://youtu.be/kMUj1h7zGpE
00:00 - Intro
00:57 - Quick Miniature & Priming Notes
02:07 - Basecoats
09:42 - Shading
10:58 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
13:26 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green (Citadel Spray Primer)
CITADEL:
Nurgling Green (Dry)
Underhive Ash (Dry)
XV-88 (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Warriors (Base)
Balor Brown (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Voodoo Shade (Fanatic Wash)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Tone (Fanatic Wash)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE:
Put down a layer of PVA and sprinkle liberally with basing sand. Let it dry, then paint with thinned-down Vallejo Leather Brown. Once dry, overbrush liberally with Vallejo Flat Earth, then drybrush with Vallejo Tan Yellow. Add dots of PVA and static grass to taste, or use tufts you like.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!")
![Applying the KISS Principle: Keep it Simple, Steve-O! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yek5mnfsTEg/mqdefault.jpg "Applying the KISS Principle: Keep it Simple, Steve-O! [How I Paint Things]
I might be preaching to the choir for a lot of folks, but remember: Theres always a first time youve heard something! If youve never thought of using a coloured primer to get the job done on smashing out armies before, give it a shot. Something as simple as a drybrush and some spot highlights on armour or weapons will work wonders for knocking out an army extremely quickly, whether for the grim darkness of the far future or something more grounded in reality.
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Priming Notes
02:13 - Drybrushing - Adding Texture
03:21 - Soft vs Hard Basecoats
05:48 - A Quick Note on Colour Choices
07:41 - The Final Step - More Texture
09:19 - The Finished Miniatures
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green, Zandri Dust, Mechanicus Standard Grey
DRYBRUSH:
Over Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash (Citadel Dry)
Over Zandri Dust, Tyrant Skull (Citadel Dry)
Over Mechanicus Standard Grey, Longbeard Grey (Citadel Dry)
SOFT BASECOATS:
Webbing, boots, rifle sling: Leather Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask (soft part): Karak Stone (Citadel Layer)
Boots, mask eyes and fittings: Black Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask faceplate: Corax White (Citadel Base)
SONIC TONIC/MARINE JUICE MkIII:
1 bottle of Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
1 bottle of Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
1 bottle of Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
Works out to 3:3:4 ratio if you want to mix a smaller batch, but bottles are easiest!
HARD BASECOATS:
Metallics: Leadbelcher (Citadel Base)
Armour, gun casing: German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Wash: Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
Highlights: Silver (Vallejo Model Air), Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASES:
Urban Base: Layer of PVA followed by sand. Thin down German Camo Black Brown and apply liberally, like a wash. Once dry, heavy overbrush of a mid-tone grey like Basalt Grey. Drybrush lightly with Krieg Khaki. Tiny dots of PVA again under bigger rocks and then add static grass.
Desert Base: Thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paint, then drybrush Dark Sand. Boom, done.
Forest Base: Thick layer of Stirland Mud, heavily drybrushed Golgfag Brown, then lightly with Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste.")
![Can Speedpaint be... Speedier? Painting Death Guard in Real Time! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yt43tHpSSJE/mqdefault.jpg "Can Speedpaint be... Speedier? Painting Death Guard in Real Time! [How I Paint Things]
I was pretty satisfied that at a hair under 30 minutes per figure, I could paint a Death Guard army to a decent table standard in no time at all. But what if, I thought... I could do it even faster?
A slight variation on this will work perfectly well for the other white-armoured armies of the Heresy and beyond! White Scars, World Eaters or similar will benefit from a quick black and white prime, a couple speedpaints, then skdoosh! Done. Those metallic Speedpaints really surprised me.
If youre anything like me, youll probably enjoy cranking the speed on this to 1.5x and get the whole experience that little bit faster!
00:00 - Intro
01:21 - Explaining Priming
02:37 - Speedpaint Basecoats
15:52 - Wash/Shade
18:17 - Disaster Strikes!
20:31 - The Fixed, Finished Marine
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed with Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Army Painter tufts to taste, and paint the rim in Dryad Bark. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Saddle Brown
Broadsword Silver
Algae Green
Poppy Red
Hoplite Gold
Grim Black
Strong Tone
Speedpaint Medium
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter)")
![Legends of the Old West - Painting US Cavalry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z1GikM3zvAA/mqdefault.jpg "Legends of the Old West - Painting US Cavalry [How I Paint Things]
Existing in some form since 1776, it wasnt until 1861 that the variously-named plains cavalry, Mounted Rangers, and Dragoons were finally named the United States Cavalry. Instrumental in Americas westward expansion, they were a welcome sight riding across the horizon for the homesteaders and settlers they were charged to protect, though the reality of their relentless advance is rather more complex than clear-cut classic westerns and shows like F Troop portray.
For some far-flung ranchers and settlers, the mounted men of the US Cavalry was as close as came to law enforcement, and in games like _Legends of the Old West_ they punch well above the weight their limited numbers would suggest. Woe betide if you were the outlaw whod caused trouble enough to have the Cavalry set on your tail!
Check out the entire Wanted range from 3DBreed here: https://www.3dbreed.es/join-or-die-wanted/
00:00 - Intro
00:53 - Introducing the Miniature & Priming
02:19 - Basecoats
08:59 - Shading; Check Description for Juice Recipe
11:41 - Highlighting
18:54 - The Finished Cavalry
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, drybrushed Dark Sand. Paint the base rim with Brown Sand and apply tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Leather Brown (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Ultramarine Blue
Daemonic Yellow
Wolf Grey
Banshee Brown
Skeleton Bone
Grim Black
Fog Grey
Griffon Blue
Monster Brown
Moon Dust
Brainmatter Beige
CITADEL:
Kantor Blue (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Dawnstone (Dry)
Administratum Grey (Layer)
MARINE JUICE:
Mix equal parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade), Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash), and Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical). Test it on something first, and if its too dark for your liking, add a little more medium.
VALLEJO:
German Grey
Black
Steel (Model Air)")
![Painting Iron Warriors: Siege Masters With a Little Shine [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZBzChnncnIU/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Iron Warriors: Siege Masters With a Little Shine [How I Paint Things]
Recognized as masters of siege warfare, the Iron Warriors are dour, relentless, heedless of attrition... if they sound like my favourite Legion, the Death Guard, theres probably a good reason I had to think really hard about which Legion I was going to start playing The Horus Heresy with! Iron Warriors very nearly came out on top - not having to paint hazard stripes on grubby Death Guard was the deciding factor! 😅
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Kitbash Notes
01:56 - Priming Notes
02:19 - Basecoats
11:28 - Shading
13:27 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
18:50 - The Finished Iron Warrior
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Heavy Metal (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Grimdark Shadow (Wash - John Blanche)
Speedpaint Medium
Inner Light (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Death Metal (Fanatic)
Ruby Skin (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Legendary Red (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
THE BASE:
Apply a thick layer of GW Stirland Mud then heavily drybrush with AP Burning Ore, and lightly with AP Dorado Skin. Add tufts to taste and done!")
![Near-Instant Black Clothing - The Cadian Castellan as a Commissar [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZEom2JxnFdA/mqdefault.jpg "Near-Instant Black Clothing - The Cadian Castellan as a Commissar [How I Paint Things]
Obviously, if you like the new commissar miniature, all these same methods will work on him as well!
00:00 - Intro
01:12 - Conversion Note & Priming
02:28 - No Highlight Black
06:21 - Basecoats
12:01 - Shading
13:06 - Highlights
16:41 - The Finished Castellommissar
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison and Woodcock - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed with Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Paint the base rim in Rhinox Hide, add a few very small dots of PVA to stick static grass in random spots on both the dirt and the rubble. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Ulthuan Grey (Layer)
White Scar (Layer)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Mephiston Red (Base)
Averland Sunset (Base)
Gal Vorbak Red (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Corax White (Base)
Tyrant Skull (Dry)
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Ungor Flesh (Layer)
Wild Rider Red (Layer)
Gorthor Brown (Layer)
Wazzdakka Red (Layer)
Aethermatic Blue (Contrast)
Asurmen Blue (Contrast)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
VALLEJO:
Leather Brown (or Dryad Bark)
Black
Steel (Model Air)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)
Ardcoat (Citadel Technical - on the plasma pistol)")
