Uploaded August 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
I might be preaching to the choir for a lot of folks, but remember: There's always a first time you've heard something! If you've never thought of using a coloured primer to get the job done on smashing out armies before, give it a shot. Something as simple as a drybrush and some spot highlights on armour or weapons will work wonders for knocking out an army extremely quickly, whether for the grim darkness of the far future or something more grounded in reality.
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Priming Notes
02:13 - Drybrushing - Adding Texture
03:21 - 'Soft' vs 'Hard' Basecoats
05:48 - A Quick Note on Colour Choices
07:41 - The Final Step - More Texture
09:19 - The Finished Miniatures
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green, Zandri Dust, Mechanicus Standard Grey
DRYBRUSH:
Over Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash (Citadel Dry)
Over Zandri Dust, Tyrant Skull (Citadel Dry)
Over Mechanicus Standard Grey, Longbeard Grey (Citadel Dry)
SOFT BASECOATS:
Webbing, boots, rifle sling: Leather Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask (soft part): Karak Stone (Citadel Layer)
Boots, mask eyes and fittings: Black Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask faceplate: Corax White (Citadel Base)
SONIC TONIC/MARINE JUICE MkIII:
1 bottle of Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
1 bottle of Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
1 bottle of Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
Works out to 3:3:4 ratio if you want to mix a smaller batch, but bottles are easiest!
HARD BASECOATS:
Metallics: Leadbelcher (Citadel Base)
Armour, gun casing: German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Wash: Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
Highlights: Silver (Vallejo Model Air), Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASES:
Urban Base: Layer of PVA followed by sand. Thin down German Camo Black Brown and apply liberally, like a wash. Once dry, heavy overbrush of a mid-tone grey like Basalt Grey. Drybrush lightly with Krieg Khaki. Tiny dots of PVA again under bigger rocks and then add static grass.
Desert Base: Thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paint, then drybrush Dark Sand. Boom, done.
Forest Base: Thick layer of Stirland Mud, heavily drybrushed Golgfag Brown, then lightly with Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste.
I might be preaching to the choir for a lot of folks, but remember: There's always a first time you've heard something! If you've never thought of using a coloured primer to get the job done on smashing out armies before, give it a shot. Something as simple as a drybrush and some spot highlights on armour or weapons will work wonders for knocking out an army extremely quickly, whether for the grim darkness of the far future or something more grounded in reality.
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Priming Notes
02:13 - Drybrushing - Adding Texture
03:21 - 'Soft' vs 'Hard' Basecoats
05:48 - A Quick Note on Colour Choices
07:41 - The Final Step - More Texture
09:19 - The Finished Miniatures
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Death Guard Green, Zandri Dust, Mechanicus Standard Grey
DRYBRUSH:
Over Death Guard Green, Underhive Ash (Citadel Dry)
Over Zandri Dust, Tyrant Skull (Citadel Dry)
Over Mechanicus Standard Grey, Longbeard Grey (Citadel Dry)
SOFT BASECOATS:
Webbing, boots, rifle sling: Leather Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask (soft part): Karak Stone (Citadel Layer)
Boots, mask eyes and fittings: Black Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Mask faceplate: Corax White (Citadel Base)
SONIC TONIC/MARINE JUICE MkIII:
1 bottle of Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
1 bottle of Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
1 bottle of Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
Works out to 3:3:4 ratio if you want to mix a smaller batch, but bottles are easiest!
HARD BASECOATS:
Metallics: Leadbelcher (Citadel Base)
Armour, gun casing: German Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
Wash: Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
Highlights: Silver (Vallejo Model Air), Matt White (Army Painter Fanatic)
BASES:
Urban Base: Layer of PVA followed by sand. Thin down German Camo Black Brown and apply liberally, like a wash. Once dry, heavy overbrush of a mid-tone grey like Basalt Grey. Drybrush lightly with Krieg Khaki. Tiny dots of PVA again under bigger rocks and then add static grass.
Desert Base: Thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paint, then drybrush Dark Sand. Boom, done.
Forest Base: Thick layer of Stirland Mud, heavily drybrushed Golgfag Brown, then lightly with Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste.

![Can Speedpaint be... Speedier? Painting Death Guard in Real Time! [How I Paint Things]
I was pretty satisfied that at a hair under 30 minutes per figure, I could paint a Death Guard army to a decent table standard in no time at all. But what if, I thought... I could do it even faster?
A slight variation on this will work perfectly well for the other white-armoured armies of the Heresy and beyond! White Scars, World Eaters or similar will benefit from a quick black and white prime, a couple speedpaints, then skdoosh! Done. Those metallic Speedpaints really surprised me.
If youre anything like me, youll probably enjoy cranking the speed on this to 1.5x and get the whole experience that little bit faster!
00:00 - Intro
01:21 - Explaining Priming
02:37 - Speedpaint Basecoats
15:52 - Wash/Shade
18:17 - Disaster Strikes!
20:31 - The Fixed, Finished Marine
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed with Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Army Painter tufts to taste, and paint the rim in Dryad Bark. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Saddle Brown
Broadsword Silver
Algae Green
Poppy Red
Hoplite Gold
Grim Black
Strong Tone
Speedpaint Medium
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter) Can Speedpaint be... Speedier? Painting Death Guard in Real Time! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yt43tHpSSJE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Legends of the Old West - Painting US Cavalry [How I Paint Things]
Existing in some form since 1776, it wasnt until 1861 that the variously-named plains cavalry, Mounted Rangers, and Dragoons were finally named the United States Cavalry. Instrumental in Americas westward expansion, they were a welcome sight riding across the horizon for the homesteaders and settlers they were charged to protect, though the reality of their relentless advance is rather more complex than clear-cut classic westerns and shows like F Troop portray.
For some far-flung ranchers and settlers, the mounted men of the US Cavalry was as close as came to law enforcement, and in games like _Legends of the Old West_ they punch well above the weight their limited numbers would suggest. Woe betide if you were the outlaw whod caused trouble enough to have the Cavalry set on your tail!
Check out the entire Wanted range from 3DBreed here: https://www.3dbreed.es/join-or-die-wanted/
00:00 - Intro
00:53 - Introducing the Miniature & Priming
02:19 - Basecoats
08:59 - Shading; Check Description for Juice Recipe
11:41 - Highlighting
18:54 - The Finished Cavalry
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE:
Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, drybrushed Dark Sand. Paint the base rim with Brown Sand and apply tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Leather Brown (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Ultramarine Blue
Daemonic Yellow
Wolf Grey
Banshee Brown
Skeleton Bone
Grim Black
Fog Grey
Griffon Blue
Monster Brown
Moon Dust
Brainmatter Beige
CITADEL:
Kantor Blue (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Dawnstone (Dry)
Administratum Grey (Layer)
MARINE JUICE:
Mix equal parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade), Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash), and Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical). Test it on something first, and if its too dark for your liking, add a little more medium.
VALLEJO:
German Grey
Black
Steel (Model Air) Legends of the Old West - Painting US Cavalry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z1GikM3zvAA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting Iron Warriors: Siege Masters With a Little Shine [How I Paint Things]
Recognized as masters of siege warfare, the Iron Warriors are dour, relentless, heedless of attrition... if they sound like my favourite Legion, the Death Guard, theres probably a good reason I had to think really hard about which Legion I was going to start playing The Horus Heresy with! Iron Warriors very nearly came out on top - not having to paint hazard stripes on grubby Death Guard was the deciding factor! 😅
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Kitbash Notes
01:56 - Priming Notes
02:19 - Basecoats
11:28 - Shading
13:27 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
18:50 - The Finished Iron Warrior
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Heavy Metal (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Grimdark Shadow (Wash - John Blanche)
Speedpaint Medium
Inner Light (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Death Metal (Fanatic)
Ruby Skin (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Legendary Red (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
THE BASE:
Apply a thick layer of GW Stirland Mud then heavily drybrush with AP Burning Ore, and lightly with AP Dorado Skin. Add tufts to taste and done! Painting Iron Warriors: Siege Masters With a Little Shine [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZBzChnncnIU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Near-Instant Black Clothing - The Cadian Castellan as a Commissar [How I Paint Things]
Obviously, if you like the new commissar miniature, all these same methods will work on him as well!
00:00 - Intro
01:12 - Conversion Note & Priming
02:28 - No Highlight Black
06:21 - Basecoats
12:01 - Shading
13:06 - Highlights
16:41 - The Finished Castellommissar
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison and Woodcock - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed with Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Paint the base rim in Rhinox Hide, add a few very small dots of PVA to stick static grass in random spots on both the dirt and the rubble. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Ulthuan Grey (Layer)
White Scar (Layer)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Mephiston Red (Base)
Averland Sunset (Base)
Gal Vorbak Red (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Corax White (Base)
Tyrant Skull (Dry)
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Ungor Flesh (Layer)
Wild Rider Red (Layer)
Gorthor Brown (Layer)
Wazzdakka Red (Layer)
Aethermatic Blue (Contrast)
Asurmen Blue (Contrast)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
VALLEJO:
Leather Brown (or Dryad Bark)
Black
Steel (Model Air)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)
Ardcoat (Citadel Technical - on the plasma pistol) Near-Instant Black Clothing - The Cadian Castellan as a Commissar [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZEom2JxnFdA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Desert-Themed Guardsmen - Painting Chocolate Chip Camo [How I Paint Things]
Blotches, squigglies, dib-dabs - be prepared for extremely technical language. Desert camo is as complicated as you want to make it, so take it from me: dont! Blotches and squigglies, folks. Theyll set you free.
Pick up the STLs for the Spacenam range, including the new Command Bits pack, from Reptilian Overlords: https://reptilianoverlords.com/ref/sonicsledgehammer/ This sneaky little affiliate link nets me a small commission of any STL purchases. Licensed printers worldwide can provide resin parts if you dont have your own 3D printer; check out the 3D Printers tab for someone near you! I dont earn anything from licensed printing, but you should get some cool-ass toys anyway!
Just as Ultramarines have, over the years, changed slightly in GWs house style, so too do Tyranid Hive Fleets occasionally switch up a colour or two. Im a sucker for the red hooves and dark chitin of Hive Fleet Leviathan, so if you prefer the slightly older style with the raft of new paints thatre available these days, check this out!
00:00 - Intro
00:44 - Basecoats
09:40 - Shading - Marine Juice
11:20 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
16:11 - The Finished Guardsman
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste applied in a thin layer, drybrushed with Dark Sand. Paint the base rim in XV-88 and add tufts to taste - these are the Army Painter Mountain Tufts. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Zandri Dust (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Zandri Dust (Base)
Tyrant Skull (Dry)
Knight-Questor Flesh (Layer)
Corvus Black (Base)
Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer)
Morghast Bone (Base)
Steel Legion Drab (Base)
Leadbelcher (Base)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Layer)
White Scar (Layer)
Talassar Blue (Contrast)
ARMY PAINTER:
Monster Brown
Tanned Flesh
VALLEJO:
German Camo Black Brown
Steel (Model Air)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar) Desert-Themed Guardsmen - Painting Chocolate Chip Camo [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZoOSDA5w2GA/mqdefault.jpg)

![Painting Fireforge Samurai - Pre-Shade & Speedpaints [How I Paint Things]
Samurai are some of the most iconic warriors throughout history, clad in ornate, exquisitely detailed armour and equipment... though sometimes they took a slightly more pragmatic approach to their decor! Painting them doesnt have to be a chore!
The sites mentioned are all available from this link, which is an absolutely great resource for painting ideas! https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/renaissance-armies/samurai-painting-guide-part-1
00:00 - Intro
01:01 - Priming Notes
01:42 - Pre-Shade
03:26 - Painting Time!
15:11 - The Finished Samurai
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
THE ARMY PAINTER:
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Brainmatter Beige (Fanatic)
Peachy Flesh (Speedpaint)
Tyrian Navy (Speedpaint)
Pallid Bone (Speedpaint)
Slaughter Red (Speedpaint)
Murder Scene (Speedpaint)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
Occultist Cloak (Speedpaint)
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Tone (Wash)
Warped Yellow (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Tree Ancient, then heavily drybrushed with Paratrooper Tan with a little touch of Urban Buff on the larger clumps of texture. A light sprinkling of PVA and some static grass, then Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height. Painting Fireforge Samurai - Pre-Shade & Speedpaints [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_qivyv-Fszc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting for GREATHELM: Knights in a Flash! [How I Paint Things]
Paint six guys to a reasonable standard in an afternoon. Thats the sort of thing youre here for, right? ✌ A couple simple drybrushes to finish off a very simple job and youre done in no time!
One thing I didnt mention in the video which I feel bears mentioning was Dr. Steffans reaction when someone mentioned the Knights Templar and Dan Browns The Da Vinci Code in the same sentence. I am quite certain that if Dan Brown were within reach at the time, we would have witnessed a mild-mannered German academic in cargo shorts, socks, and sandals, launch himself at an author with an intent to do mischief. Would have been a right laugh!
Peachys video on Greathelm: https://youtu.be/kW81oKn1g4E
Find Greathelms rules (and free Quickstart PDF!) and the fantastic companion app here: https://greathelm.indietabletop.club/
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Priming Notes
01:53 - Basecoats
09:33 - Wash Time!
11:33 - Finishing Touches
14:16 - The Finished Knights
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (John Blanche)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Brainmatter Beige (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Brigandine Brown (Fanatic)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Greedy Gold (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Moonstone Skin (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Dark Tone (Wash)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
THE BASE: A generous layer of PVA and then dip the sucker into Krautcovers Soil of Sparta mix. Paint the base rim to taste - Ive used Desert Yellow - and done! Painting for GREATHELM: Knights in a Flash! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_wK30YUfLT0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Just the Basics: Painting Your First WWII German Grenadiers [How I Paint Things]
If youre just getting into painting miniatures or havent tackled historical subjects in the past, the Bolt Action starter box is an excellent place to begin - German and American forces for the late war period, could you get any more iconic?
Find part two of this guide here: https://youtu.be/2LkXb_QUafQ
When youre painting an army for the first time, its worth concentrating on the simple stuff to begin with. Any time youre moving paint around, youre learning, and any opportunity to use a couple of different paint manufacturers will likewise teach you about the different consistencies and coverages across ranges and colours. Everything is experience! Once youve got the basics down and have an army on the table with flat colours and a wash over them, you can choose whether or not to add more detail later, but even a very simple paintjob will vastly improve the look of your games.
Check out the complete Warlord Games range at their website via this affiliate link: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER I score a few pennies off any purchase made through their webstore at no additional cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
01:01 - Do You Need a Wet Palette?
01:57 - Thinning Your Paints (More than a Meme!)
04:53 - Brush Control: Do the Twirl!
06:03 - Priming Notes
07:03 - Basecoats
15:51 - Applying Washes
18:27 - Basing
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Greenskin (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Fanatic Wash)
Strong Tone (Fanatic Wash)
VALLEJO:
German Fieldgrey
Cork Brown
Chocolate Brown
Khaki
German Camo Dark Green
German Grey
BASING:
Apply a layer of PVA, then some basing sand. Thin down some Chocolate Brown to paint the sand once dry, then drybrush with Cork Brown, and finally Dark Sand. Use either a couple more dots of PVA and static grass, or basing tufts as Ive used here - these are Mountain Tufts from Army Painter. Just the Basics: Painting Your First WWII German Grenadiers [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aC6rKeLpmCI/mqdefault.jpg)
![From Basics to Finished: Painting Your First WWII US Rangers [How I Paint Things]
If youre just getting into painting miniatures or havent tackled historical subjects in the past, the Bolt Action starter box is an excellent place to begin - German and American forces for the late war period, could you get any more iconic?
Check out the German Grenadiers guide mentioned for more tips here: https://youtu.be/aC6rKeLpmCI
When youre painting an army for the first time, its worth concentrating on the simple stuff to begin with. Any time youre moving paint around, youre learning, and any opportunity to use a couple of different paint manufacturers will likewise teach you about the different consistencies and coverages across ranges and colours. Everything is experience! Once youve got the basics down and have an army on the table with flat colours and a wash over them, you can choose whether or not to add more detail later, but even a very simple paintjob will vastly improve the look of your games.
Check out the complete Warlord Games range at their website via this affiliate link: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER I score a few pennies off any purchase made through their webstore at no additional cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:55 - Priming Notes
02:06 - Thinning Your Paints
05:57 - Brush Control - Keep the Point!
07:02 - Applying Basecoats
12:35 - Washes & Shading
15:33 - Finishing Touches for Army Work
16:17 - Game-Ready Finish
16:51 - Highlighting Faces
18:32 - Mixing Highlights: Your Secret Weapon
21:56 - The Finished Ranger
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Fanatic Wash)
Strong Tone (Fanatic Wash)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
VALLEJO:
Canvas (Panzer Aces 314)
German Grey
Brown Violet (also called US Olive Drab 887)
Ivory (Game Color)
BASING:
Apply a layer of PVA, then some basing sand. Thin down some Chocolate Brown to paint the sand once dry, then drybrush with Cork Brown, and finally Dark Sand. Use either a couple more dots of PVA and static grass, or basing tufts as Ive used here - these are Mountain Tufts from Army Painter. From Basics to Finished: Painting Your First WWII US Rangers [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aczxgiYS3MU/mqdefault.jpg)