![Salamander Terminators - Experimenting with Drybrushing [How I Paint Things] @SonicSledgehammerStudio](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ataC0VZDVx8/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded November 2025 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
I'm supremely glad I actually recorded this method as I was painting or I wouldn't have believed the result, myself. It's not the fastest way, for sure, but it's easy enough and the end result has some really interesting colour modulation which makes it interesting to look at.
I accidentally painted maybe the nicest army style Salamander I've ever done entirely without meaning to. Whoops!
The 'classic' method: youtu.be/BVu8OQjWiRQ
00:00 - Intro
01:51 - Priming Notes
02:36 - The Green Armour Recipe
07:25 - More Basecoats
10:43 - Shading
12:22 - Finishing Touches
16:38 - The Finished Terminator
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Angel Green (Fanatic)
Greenskin (Fanatic)
Ferocious Green (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Grey Castle (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Leadbelcher (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Screamer Pink (Base)
Nuln Oil (Shade)
Stormhost Silver (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black (Model Color)
German Camo Black Brown (Model Color)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of GW Stirland Mud, then overbrush with AP Burning Ore, and drybrush with AP Dorado Skin - or GW Ryza Rust, then GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and paint the base rim dark brown.
I'm supremely glad I actually recorded this method as I was painting or I wouldn't have believed the result, myself. It's not the fastest way, for sure, but it's easy enough and the end result has some really interesting colour modulation which makes it interesting to look at.
I accidentally painted maybe the nicest army style Salamander I've ever done entirely without meaning to. Whoops!
The 'classic' method: youtu.be/BVu8OQjWiRQ
00:00 - Intro
01:51 - Priming Notes
02:36 - The Green Armour Recipe
07:25 - More Basecoats
10:43 - Shading
12:22 - Finishing Touches
16:38 - The Finished Terminator
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Angel Green (Fanatic)
Greenskin (Fanatic)
Ferocious Green (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Grey Castle (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Leadbelcher (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Screamer Pink (Base)
Nuln Oil (Shade)
Stormhost Silver (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black (Model Color)
German Camo Black Brown (Model Color)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of GW Stirland Mud, then overbrush with AP Burning Ore, and drybrush with AP Dorado Skin - or GW Ryza Rust, then GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and paint the base rim dark brown.
![Salamander Terminators - Experimenting with Drybrushing [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ataC0VZDVx8/mqdefault.jpg "Salamander Terminators - Experimenting with Drybrushing [How I Paint Things]
Im supremely glad I actually recorded this method as I was painting or I wouldnt have believed the result, myself. Its not the fastest way, for sure, but its easy enough and the end result has some really interesting colour modulation which makes it interesting to look at.
I accidentally painted maybe the nicest army style Salamander Ive ever done entirely without meaning to. Whoops!
The classic method: https://youtu.be/BVu8OQjWiRQ
00:00 - Intro
01:51 - Priming Notes
02:36 - The Green Armour Recipe
07:25 - More Basecoats
10:43 - Shading
12:22 - Finishing Touches
16:38 - The Finished Terminator
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Angel Green (Fanatic)
Greenskin (Fanatic)
Ferocious Green (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Grey Castle (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Leadbelcher (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Screamer Pink (Base)
Nuln Oil (Shade)
Stormhost Silver (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black (Model Color)
German Camo Black Brown (Model Color)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of GW Stirland Mud, then overbrush with AP Burning Ore, and drybrush with AP Dorado Skin - or GW Ryza Rust, then GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and paint the base rim dark brown.")
![Painting Grand Moff Tarkin - Detailed Faces & Finishing Touches [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/b6cbOrVnD3Y/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Grand Moff Tarkin - Detailed Faces & Finishing Touches [How I Paint Things]
Sometimes you have something that isnt going to see a lot of use on the table, but you just have to paint it. Today thats Grand Moff Tarkin, as played by the inimitable Peter Cushing in Star Wars - while there was just one movie by that name!
If youre keen on picking up your own STLs to print Tarkin at home, check out the Imperial Governor at Dark Fire Designs here: https://darkfiredesigns.com/products/the-imperial-governor
Use discount code sonicsledge without the quotes to get 10% off any order through DFDs site. As mum used to put it, Beats a hard kick in the face!
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Priming
01:23 - Basecoats
06:03 - Shading
07:41 - Highlighting
09:06 - Painting the Face
13:31 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Kislev Fleshtone (Layer)
White Scar (Layer)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer)
Carroburg Crimson (Shade)
Reikland Fleshshade (Shade)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
VALLEJO:
German Field Grey
Blue Grey Pale
German Grey
Stone Grey
ARMY PAINTER:
Plate Mail Metal
Electric Blue
Mars Red
Moon Dust
Speedpaint Medium
Strong Skin Shade
Strong Tone
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+")
![Speedpainting Soviets: 28mm Motostrelki Army Painting [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bN2v1rfirLs/mqdefault.jpg "Speedpainting Soviets: 28mm Motostrelki Army Painting [How I Paint Things]
Whether youre looking to whip up border conflicts between fictional Soviet satellite states or to wargame the unthinkable outbreak of the Cold War, Motostrelki are the uncounted masses of infantry youll need for any ground force invasion. Luckily, its easy to get a surprisingly decent result without much work at all, using a few paints that cover remarkably well to keep brush time to a minimum!
Thanks again go to Steffan for letting me get my grubby mitts on the STLs for the core platoon from the Zapad 1 Kickstarter, which is still live for a couple days from when this is uploaded. Make sure to check it out if youre interested! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flankmarch/zapad-1-cold-war-soviet-motostrelki-stls/description
Steffan suggests the BattlegroundHD rules set, though No End in Sight from Nordic Weasel Games would be a late-20th Century set of rules Im familiar with which would work in this scale.
Check out the main Flank March Miniatures website, which also features neat articles on painting, gaming, and information about the eras being represented on the tabletop here: https://www.flankmarch.com/
Find Full Metal Miniatures, whove partnered with Flank March to provide physical versions of the BAOR and (soon!) the Soviet Mototrelki: https://www.fullmetalminiatures.com/
00:00 - Intro
01:01 - A Look at the Miniature: Flank March
01:46 - Priming Notes
02:13 - Basecoats
07:52 - Shading
08:59 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
09:54 - The Finished Miniatures
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: English Uniform (Vallejo Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
Khaki Grey
Flat Brown
Dark Sand
German Grey
Brown Sand
Orange Brown
US Olive Drab
Flat Red
Vermillion
ARMY PAINTER:
Topaz Skin (Fanatic)
Tundra Taupe (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Retributor Armour (Base)
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!
BASING:
Apply a layer of Brown Earth texture paste from Vallejo, then drybrush in Dark Sand. A couple of Army Painter Highland Tufts finish the job! Easy.")
![One-Coat Paints: Speedpainting WWII French Infantry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/c19td4zhgBk/mqdefault.jpg "One-Coat Paints: Speedpainting WWII French Infantry [How I Paint Things]
Early WWII French uniforms have a reputation for being a little tricky to paint. Not any more! With surprisingly few paints on the table youll be able to knock out a French army fast; this took me about the third of the time itd ordinarily take me to paint a French infantryman. Does it look like it? Well, get up close and squint... but paint an army like this and theyll look just fine on the table, beating out grey plastic - thats for sure!
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Priming Notes
01:21 - Drybrushing Pre-Highlight
02:01 - One-Coat Basecoats
08:35 - Extra Bits & Finishing Touches
12:07 - The Finished Soldier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: A layer of PVA followed by sand. Thin down some Vallejo Flat Brown and paint that on to the sand, drybrush in Dark Sand once dry. Dots of PVA for static grass, and a tuft or two. Paint the base rim in Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Bone White (Vallejo Spray Primer)
CITADEL:
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Reikland Fleshshade (Shade)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
VALLEJO:
White (Model Color)
Battledress Brown (Xpress)
Khaki Drill (Xpress)
Mahogany (Xpress)
Muddy Ground (Xpress)
Wasteland Brown (Xpress)
Bag of Bones (Xpress)
Brown Violet/US Olive Drab (Model Color)
ARMY PAINTER:
Desolate Brown (Speedpaint)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium")
![Cold War US Infantry - BDU Fatigues Kept Simple [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/cXh-E4Vi6DU/mqdefault.jpg "Cold War US Infantry - BDU Fatigues Kept Simple [How I Paint Things]
Exercise REFORGER - REturn of FORces to GERmany - was a test of precisely how and how quickly NATO troops could return in strength to West Germany during the Cold War. An annual exercise, it ran from 1967 to 1993 once NATO commanders were satisfied the threat of a breakaway faction of the former Soviet Union didnt still have its eyes on western Europe.
Check out REFORGER 1 from Flank March miniatures on Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flankmarch/reforger-1-cold-war-us-army-infantry
The BDUs - battle dress uniforms - work by US troops during this period were iconic for almost thirty years, issued between 1981 to 2006 and seeing continued use in ancillary branches for years afterward as well. Sent to US-aligned military and security forces worldwide, the humble BDU uniform can theoretically work for almost any modern military, mercenary, or post-apocalyptic survivors you want to put on the table!
00:00 - Intro
00:55 - Miniature Notes
02:01 - Priming Notes
02:39 - Basecoats
09:55 - Shading
11:21 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
13:26 - The Finished Soldier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Army Green (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strap Grey (Historical)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
THE BASE: Apply a layer of PVA glue then basing sand, painted with thinned-down Oak Brown once dry. Overbrush with Leather Brown, then drybrush in Command Khaki. Add dots of fresh PVA and sprinkle on static grass.")
![What the F.O.D? Painting Quar Fidwogs - Wargames Atlantic Plastics [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dDtgzgweQQ0/mqdefault.jpg "What the F.O.D? Painting Quar Fidwogs - Wargames Atlantic Plastics [How I Paint Things]
The Fraedarl Overseas Department, of course - what else would FOD be? The Quar are singularly ill-suited to combat given their dumpy stature and generally peaceful natures, but they war anyway. A classic range of miniatures in white metal has been supplemented by the hard plastics from Wargames Atlantic, including printed parts and STL accessories from the original sculptor himself.
To find out more about Fidwog, its allies and enemies, and the world of Alwyd at large, visit https://rhyfler.com/
Find the Quar and a whole host of other hard plastic kits and printed resin accessories from Wargames Atlantic here: https://wargamesatlantic.com?ref=sonicsledge Making a purchase through this affiliate link nets you cool toys, and I get a few pennies as well. Win-win!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - Priming Notes
01:59 - Basecoats
07:33 - Shading
08:42 - Highlights & Extra Details
12:11 - Painting the Tractor
13:28 - Quick Notes on Assembling the Tractor
13:55 - Painting Tractor Markings
18:34 - Painting the Lens/Lamp
19:34 - The Finished Group
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Ash Grey (Army Painter Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Legendary Red (Fanatic)
Warped Yellow (Fanatic)
Leafy Green (Fanatic)
Turquoise Siren (Fanatic)
Arctic Gem (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Hardened Leather (Speedpaint)
Space Dust (Fanatic)
Orc Skin (Speedpaint)
Electric Lime (Fanatic)
Raging Sea (Fanatic)
Neptune Glow (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Royal Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Banshee Brown (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE:
Put down a layer of PVA and sprinkle liberally with basing sand. Let it dry, then paint with thinned-down Vallejo Flat Brown. Once dry, overbrush liberally with Vallejo Brown Sand, then drybrush with Vallejo Dark Sand. Add dots of PVA and static grass to taste, or use tufts you like.")
![Imperial Japanese Infantry - New Bolt Action Army Painting [How I Paint Things 500!]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFr1bgBAbnc/mqdefault.jpg "Imperial Japanese Infantry - New Bolt Action Army Painting [How I Paint Things 500!]
Thats... thats a lot of How I Paint Things.
The Imperial Japanese Army are one of those that benefit from quick painting methods with one or two details picked out to make them pop on the table. Whether youre painting sunbleached and worn veterans or waves of infantry thrown into a banzai charge, a quick drybrush over a suitable primer colour is absolutely the fastest way to get them on the table looking ready for action.
Check out the entire Warlord Games range at their website here: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Old vs. New Comparison
01:31 - Uniform Colour Notes
03:04 - Basecoats
12:08 - Shading
14:00 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
15:47 - The Finished Trio
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Desert Yellow (Vallejo Spray), Zandri Dust (Citadel Spray)
VALLEJO:
Green Ochre (or... Khaki Grey, Yellow Ochre, German Camo Orange Ochre, English Uniform, US Field Drab - there are a LOT of choices!)
Dark Sand
Flat Flesh
English Uniform
Khaki
Flat Brown
Leather Brown
Brown Sand
Black
US Olive Drab/Green Brown
Tan Yellow
Vermillion
Basic Skin Tone
ARMY PAINTER:
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish (Army Painter Spray)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of PVA glue, then sprinkle on a suitably rocky sand mixture - Ive used Army Coarse from War World Scenics. With much thinner PVA, go over the top of this to seal it to the base. While still damp, roll some small dust out of a bag of clump foliage in the thin PVA mix and nudge these on to the base to create small spots of greenery.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!
Army Painter Marine Juice/Sonic Tonic:
Equal parts of Speedpaint Medium, Dark Tone, and Warm Skin Shade. Mix well and apply liberally!")
![Raise the Legions! Imperial Roman Legionaries - Quick! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eZjnvfnmFR8/mqdefault.jpg "Raise the Legions! Imperial Roman Legionaries - Quick! [How I Paint Things]
The Roman legionary of the early Imperial period is the type of miniature that looks like theres a lot of work to do, when in reality theres a lot you can leave up to a shade! The basic infantry can just fly off your brush, and with only a couple of Centurions, Aquilifers, or Optios to paint, those stand-out character miniatures can get just a little more work to really help them shine on the table.
Check out the entire Imperial Roman range from Victrix Miniatures here: https://www.victrixlimited.com/collections/imperial-roman-empire Theyre easily the largest and most detailed range available entirely in plastic!
Short, helpful, and to the point: Johns guide on applying LBMS transfers is invaluable if youre going to use them on the Victrix miniatures! Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZaMy6cqhIk
00:00 - Intro
00:47 - Making a Shield Jig
01:55 - Painting the Shields
03:39 - Roman Basecoats
10:36 - Shading
12:23 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:45 - Attaching the Shields
15:23 - The Finished Romans
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: White Scar (Citadel Primer Spray), Mechanicus Standard Grey (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL:
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
ARMY PAINTER:
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Topaz Skin (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Barren Dune (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Soft Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Blood Chalice (Fanatic)
Jasper Skin (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Vallejo Matt Varnish Spray, and small applications of Varnish+ (Instar) by brush
THE BASE:
Apply a layer of slightly watered down PVA to the base, then dip in sand - preferably something with decently-sized chunks for a rocky base. I use War World Scenics Army Coarse. Let dry, then paint with thinned Vallejo Brown Sand, overbrush with Vallejo Stone Grey, then lightly drybrush with Vallejo Green Grey 971 (the light one!). Tiny dots of PVA under the largest rocks and stones, then add little bits of static grass.")
