Uploaded March 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
This was actually a lot more fun to record and edit than I'd have thought. Maybe I'm not as averse to getting around in front of the camera than expected, as long as it doesn't look and sound like garbage! I've got a face for radio as it is!
Feel free to drop any questions or curiosities, suggestions for future topics and the like into the comments section here. I'm genuinely curious what people might actually be mad enough to want my opinion on - because boy howdy, I've got a few of those!
This was actually a lot more fun to record and edit than I'd have thought. Maybe I'm not as averse to getting around in front of the camera than expected, as long as it doesn't look and sound like garbage! I've got a face for radio as it is!
Feel free to drop any questions or curiosities, suggestions for future topics and the like into the comments section here. I'm genuinely curious what people might actually be mad enough to want my opinion on - because boy howdy, I've got a few of those!
![Imperial Japanese Infantry - New Bolt Action Army Painting [How I Paint Things 500!]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFr1bgBAbnc/mqdefault.jpg "Imperial Japanese Infantry - New Bolt Action Army Painting [How I Paint Things 500!]
Thats... thats a lot of How I Paint Things.
The Imperial Japanese Army are one of those that benefit from quick painting methods with one or two details picked out to make them pop on the table. Whether youre painting sunbleached and worn veterans or waves of infantry thrown into a banzai charge, a quick drybrush over a suitable primer colour is absolutely the fastest way to get them on the table looking ready for action.
Check out the entire Warlord Games range at their website here: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:52 - Old vs. New Comparison
01:31 - Uniform Colour Notes
03:04 - Basecoats
12:08 - Shading
14:00 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
15:47 - The Finished Trio
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Desert Yellow (Vallejo Spray), Zandri Dust (Citadel Spray)
VALLEJO:
Green Ochre (or... Khaki Grey, Yellow Ochre, German Camo Orange Ochre, English Uniform, US Field Drab - there are a LOT of choices!)
Dark Sand
Flat Flesh
English Uniform
Khaki
Flat Brown
Leather Brown
Brown Sand
Black
US Olive Drab/Green Brown
Tan Yellow
Vermillion
Basic Skin Tone
ARMY PAINTER:
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish (Army Painter Spray)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of PVA glue, then sprinkle on a suitably rocky sand mixture - Ive used Army Coarse from War World Scenics. With much thinner PVA, go over the top of this to seal it to the base. While still damp, roll some small dust out of a bag of clump foliage in the thin PVA mix and nudge these on to the base to create small spots of greenery.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!
Army Painter Marine Juice/Sonic Tonic:
Equal parts of Speedpaint Medium, Dark Tone, and Warm Skin Shade. Mix well and apply liberally!")
![Raise the Legions! Imperial Roman Legionaries - Quick! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eZjnvfnmFR8/mqdefault.jpg "Raise the Legions! Imperial Roman Legionaries - Quick! [How I Paint Things]
The Roman legionary of the early Imperial period is the type of miniature that looks like theres a lot of work to do, when in reality theres a lot you can leave up to a shade! The basic infantry can just fly off your brush, and with only a couple of Centurions, Aquilifers, or Optios to paint, those stand-out character miniatures can get just a little more work to really help them shine on the table.
Check out the entire Imperial Roman range from Victrix Miniatures here: https://www.victrixlimited.com/collections/imperial-roman-empire Theyre easily the largest and most detailed range available entirely in plastic!
Short, helpful, and to the point: Johns guide on applying LBMS transfers is invaluable if youre going to use them on the Victrix miniatures! Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZaMy6cqhIk
00:00 - Intro
00:47 - Making a Shield Jig
01:55 - Painting the Shields
03:39 - Roman Basecoats
10:36 - Shading
12:23 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:45 - Attaching the Shields
15:23 - The Finished Romans
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: White Scar (Citadel Primer Spray), Mechanicus Standard Grey (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL:
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
ARMY PAINTER:
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Topaz Skin (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Barren Dune (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Soft Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Blood Chalice (Fanatic)
Jasper Skin (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Vallejo Matt Varnish Spray, and small applications of Varnish+ (Instar) by brush
THE BASE:
Apply a layer of slightly watered down PVA to the base, then dip in sand - preferably something with decently-sized chunks for a rocky base. I use War World Scenics Army Coarse. Let dry, then paint with thinned Vallejo Brown Sand, overbrush with Vallejo Stone Grey, then lightly drybrush with Vallejo Green Grey 971 (the light one!). Tiny dots of PVA under the largest rocks and stones, then add little bits of static grass.")
![First Impressions of Army Painters Speedpants 2.0, and Samurai! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fMNoaSjA6Zw/mqdefault.jpg "First Impressions of Army Painters Speedpants 2.0, and Samurai! [How I Paint Things]
A fair few people had asked when Speedpaints were released what I thought of them, and the answer was pretty simple: I didnt have any, and since I already had most of the Contrast range, it didnt make a huge amount of sense to double up on materials.
Enter Speedpaint 2.0 with the improved flow properties and the reactivation issue fixed. Fixed? Well, this miniature took a full-body wash mixed out of Speedpaint Medium with a layer that was only touch dry and not a thing shifted or started to bleed, so Id take that as a good sign.
Many thanks for Army Painter for letting me have a box of new toys to get a feel for the difference between Speedpaint and the other one and done paint ranges out there. Theyre good stuff!
The miniature is from Grey For Now Games range for Test of Honour! Check out the entire range at their main site: https://greyfornow.com/
00:00 - Intro
01:18 - Priming
02:03 - Speedpaint Time!
12:07 - Shading
13:10 - The Finished Samurai
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA & sand, Vallejo Brown Sand, drybrush Vallejo Stone Grey then lightly Vallejo Green Grey (the lighter one!), tiny dots of PVA to add static grass near and under bigger rocks.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Peachy Flesh
Bony Matter
Goddess Glow
Speedpaint Medium
Caribbean Ocean
Brainmatter Beige
Beowulf Blue
Tyrian Navy
Ancient Honey
Hoplite Gold
Grim Black
Ruddy Brown
Broadsword Silver
Moonlake Coral
Moon Dust
Soft Tone
Strong Tone
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Chosen Men - Keeping the 95th Rifles Simple! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fP6hW8ARP5g/mqdefault.jpg "Chosen Men - Keeping the 95th Rifles Simple! [How I Paint Things]
The 95th Rifles - also known as the Greenjackets, or the Grasshoppers - are probably one of the most famed and feted light infantry units throughout the world. Painting their distinctive green uniforms isnt a chore... especially if youre willing to forego absolutely strident accuracy and take up the mantle of Uniform Isnt!
The video where I go overboard in painting a face, hopefully queued up to the right moment! https://youtu.be/TKP_9NXQi_4?si=Do5TqBFaWixEfRqS&t=665
00:00 - Intro
01:09 - Priming & Colour Notes
02:47 - Basecoats
09:54 - Shading
13:13 - Highlighting & Finishing Touches
15:01 - The Finished Rifleman
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, and David Kinney - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: A thick layer of PVA glue followed by rocky sand - Ive used WSS Army Coarse. Paint with Vallejo Brown Sand, shade with Army Painter Soft Tone, then drybrush Vallejo Dark Sand. Tiny dots of PVA glue to add some static grass in little patches.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Citadel Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Luftwaffe Camo Green
Azure
Flat Brown
German Grey
Flat Green
Stone Grey
CITADEL:
Corax White (Base)
Rakarth Flesh (Base)
Mournfang Brown (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
Skavenblight Dinge (Layer)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Carroburg Crimson (Shade)
Apothecary White (Contrast)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Leather Brown
Uniform Grey
Strong Tone
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Metallic Black Armour - Iron Hands Revisited [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/feh-caT9ZzE/mqdefault.jpg "Metallic Black Armour - Iron Hands Revisited [How I Paint Things]
Iron Hands have a somewhat unfair reputation for being boring. Black armour, a little silver... and youre done. But theres plenty of ways you can put a little life into what is essentially a black and white colour scheme! With a little warmth in your bases, the Marines will look all the more austere and severe as well.
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Priming Notes
01:28 - Basecoats
08:26 - Shading
10:03 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:22 - The Finished Lieutenant
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter Spray)
VALLEJO:
Black (Model Air Metallic)
Silver Grey
CITADEL:
Mephiston Red (Base)
Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Gunmetal (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Arctic Gem (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Basilisk Red (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Peachy Flesh (Speedpaint)
Periwinkle Purple (Speedpaint)
Tidal Wave (Speedpaint)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
BASE:
A thick layer of Stirland Mud right over all the bits you want to be mucky - go over the stupid Chaos helmet on the base if you dont want it! Drybrush heavily first with Golgfag Brown, then lightly drybrush Tyrant Skull over both the sand and the exposed stonework to tie it in. Add tufts you like, and done!")
![Elegoos Saturn 4 Ultra - The Wargamers Printer [Impressions & Review]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fxCyNvexiNo/mqdefault.jpg "Elegoos Saturn 4 Ultra - The Wargamers Printer [Impressions & Review]
Ive had an Elegoo 3D printer in the house since the Mars line was introduced. As a worthy competitor in the entry-level printer line, the Mars Pro and Ultra versions have added a few neat features to make printing easier. The Saturn 4 Ultras no different, with a bunch of useful tools like an auto-stop function when it detects something that shouldnt be in the vat, a resin warmer, and even a camera so you can remotely view how larger prints are doing.
Check out the fancy product page with all the bells and whistles here: https://eu.elegoo.com/pages/elegoo-saturn-4-ultra
Capable of turning out huge numbers of infantry (especially if you start looking at smaller scales) or large vehicles at a time - even scenery - the Saturn 4 Ultra is a beast of a machine, capable of printing almost anything imaginable for a collection of miniatures or wargaming table.
Also worth mentioning - and not related to the printer at all - is the excellent service Ive always received from Elegoo. Especially considering the time zone differences, their responses are always prompt and thorough, and theyve made sure Ive always had what I need with previous machines to keep them in service and fix any little odd problems that have popped up in the past.
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games")
![Quick Army Painting: Uruk-Hai Scouts [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gG_PQhO4wGQ/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Army Painting: Uruk-Hai Scouts [How I Paint Things]
The Isengard Battlehost is well-stocked with both warriors and rangers. Though the latter dont typically take to the field in heavy armour - and most arent carrying shields - their high Fight Value and Courage make them a difficult proposition for most of the basic infantry available to Good armies in the Middle Earth Strategy Battle Game. Plus, theyre a way to get some much-needed ranged offense into your army. Painting them takes no time at all, which is even better still!
00:00 - Intro
00:36 - Priming Notes
01:36 - Basecoats
08:56 - Shading
09:56 - Highlighting & Finishing Touches
11:44 - The Finished Uruk-Hai
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Leather Brown (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Prairie Ochre (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Mocca Skin (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Death Metal (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Brigadine Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Paratrooper Tan with a little touch of Ancient Stone on the larger clumps of texture. Tiny dots of PVA and static grass to add texture.")
![Painting Automated Infantry - Machines on the March! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hLUVf2M3qbI/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Automated Infantry - Machines on the March! [How I Paint Things]
When Axis forces are deploying genetically modified horrors that can swoop from the sky or burst from the shadows in a flurry of rending teeth and slashing claws, even the most stout-hearted of Commonwealth infantry can falter in the face of such horrors. What is to be done? Remove the heart from the equation! The seamless fusion of Alan Turings tireless research and Rift-tech results in the Automated Infantry: fearless automatons that stride through the heaviest firepower, staring into the face of unspeakable monstrosities without blinking. They dont even have eyelids.
The HMG-armed Automated Infantry make a great addition to any Assault Platoon in Konflikt 47, since weaponry with a Penetration value in the game can make a huge difference. With monsters and powered armour striding around impervious to small arms fire, even the humble, obsolescent anti-tank rifle has a place on the battlefield. Churning out a wall of heavy-hitting lead, these Browning-toting robots can cut a swathe through enemy defences for your regular infantry to exploit. At least, thats the plan!
Check out the entire Warlord Games range at their website here: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Some Assembly Pointers
02:29 - Priming Notes - What Was Service Brown?
04:32 - Basecoats
08:14 - Shading
09:09 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
10:58 - The Finished AI Section
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Leather Brown (Army Painter Spray)
CITADEL:
Iron Warriors (Base)
ARMY PAINTER:
Matt White (Fanatic)
True Copper (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Command Khaki (Fanatic)
Poppy Red (Speedpaint)
VALLEJO:
US Olive Drab
Refractive Green
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Vallejo Flat Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Dark Sand. A light sprinkling of PVA and some static grass, then Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.")
![Painting United States Tanks - Colour Modulation Without an Airbrush [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hoFfKOblXgg/mqdefault.jpg "Painting United States Tanks - Colour Modulation Without an Airbrush [How I Paint Things]
United States and Allied armor (or armour, if youre of the British or then-Dominion persuasion!) is something youll almost certainly end up painting at some point if youre wargaming WWII. Thankfully, theres a ton of ways to add a little visual interest to boring green tanks!
Thanks to Warlord Games for sending along the M4 Sherman for this guide! Check out the pre-order page for Achtung Panzer here: https://eu.warlordgames.com/products/achtung-panzer-blood-steel-starter-set
Theres a bunch of other army boxes and sets to either add a bunch of armour to your Bolt Action collection, or get a platoon of tanks ready for Achtung Panzer and wallop an opponent across the table!
Grab the Wargamers Guide to US Infantry as a free PDF from Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/posts/88013871
00:00 - Intro
00:53 - Aerial Conversion
03:37 - Priming Notes
04:37 - Basecoats
05:55 - Shade Mix
07:51 - More Basecoats
13:51 - Applying Transfers
15:58 - Weathering - The Fun Stuff!
23:10 - The Finished Tank
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Can), or a similar green as discussed in the video.
VALLEJO:
US Olive Drab
Iraqi Sand
German Grey
Azure
Vermillion
Beige Brown
German Camo Black Brown
Cavalry Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Strong Tone
Speedpaint Medium
Military Shade
CITADEL:
Lahmian Medium")
![The Army Painters Quickshade Dip - Painting a Mech Suit [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/i73IBev48i8/mqdefault.jpg "The Army Painters Quickshade Dip - Painting a Mech Suit [How I Paint Things]
The Quickshade Dip is what launched The Army Painter. One of the first purpose-made speed painting products on the market, it would be followed by spray primers, paints and washes, right up to the Speedpaint and Fanatic line that exists today. So surely its been superseded by all that cool new stuff, right?
...well, not really. Turns out they still make it for a reason: It still works! Giving a slightly different finish to an acrylic wash and being able to undo it with a little white spirit or turpentine on your brush to work it away from areas before its fully cured, the Quickshade Dip still has its uses and gives a great-looking result for very little work.
Just, yknow. Let it cure properly before varnishing it. Seriously. Dont do what I did in the video! I swear.
Find the M2 Gallus Hardsuit STLs here: https://skullforgestudios.gumroad.com/l/jivku
Make sure to check out the Skullforge Studio Patreon as well for a ridiculous number of awesome files each month: https://www.patreon.com/skullforgestudios This isnt a sponsored video, I just really like what they do and enjoy the miniatures!
00:00 - Intro
00:50 - Miniature & Priming Notes
01:39 - Basecoats
06:42 - Using the Dip
10:16 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - The Finished Hardsuit
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Necrotic Flesh (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Gunmetal (Fanatic)
Desert Yellow (Fanatic)
Warped Yellow (Fanatic)
Ultramarine Blue (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Baron Blue (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Grotesque Green (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Barren Dune (Fanatic)
THE BASE: Apply a layer of Citadel Stirland Mud, drybrush heavily with Citadel Golgfag Brown, then lightly again with Citadel Tyrant Skull. Add tufts to taste.")
![SALUTE 52 Special Figure: James MacDonell [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iMZm-46-Q1k/mqdefault.jpg "SALUTE 52 Special Figure: James MacDonell [How I Paint Things]
The bravest man in the British Army! Thats quite a claim by any stretch, but when its the Duke of Wellington that says it about you... well, lets say that James MacDonells Wikipedia page makes for exciting reading!
SALUTE 52 - South Londons annual wargaming show - will be held on the 12th of April this year! Check out more information including times, events, and location information at the link here: https://southlondonwarlords.co.uk/next-salute
00:00 - Intro
01:02 - Priming Notes
01:59 - Basecoats
08:42 - Shading - The Juice is Loose!
10:07 - Highlights
15:50 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Matt White (Fanatic)
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Golden Armour (Speedpaint)
Ruddy Umber (Fanatic)
Ultramarine Blue (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Basilisk Red (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Legendary Red (Fanatic)
Alpha Blue (Fanatic)
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Liberator Gold (Layer)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Brown Sand, heavily overbrushed Stone Grey, very lightly drybrushed with Green Grey (971) - the really bright one! Add tiny dots of PVA and static grass.
Marine Juice MkIV/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!")
