![Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things] @SonicSledgehammerStudio](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q2bj3ygxaJ0/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded September 2025 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
"How can you use the Dip on a vehicle? You can't dip it!" Well, same as a wash doesn't literally clean a miniature... sometimes a name is just a name. I can't count the number of times I've been told I'm using the Quickshade Dip incorrectly because I'm not literally dipping miniatures - the Army Painter even suggests what they call the 'splash-on method' themselves!
The secret is in a broad, flat-edged brush for those large panels where you want as few brush strokes as possible to show. For once, I'd suggest a relatively cheap, store-bought synthetic brush - something you don't mind eventually being demolished by the Dip.
For comparison's sake, here's that classic Rhino painting guide: youtu.be/GfS0pe8Sy-o This uses acrylic washes rather than the Dip, but some of the principles are the same and it might give you some more ideas!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming and Painting Notes
02:41 - Preparing the Dip
03:07 - Applying the Dip
06:46 - After Curing
07:12 - Post Varnish!
07:49 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - I Saw the Plasma Glow
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter)
ARMY PAINTER:
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Polished Silver (Speedpaint Marker)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Rust (Effect)
Rust Tone (Wash)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Satin Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Oak Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Burning Ore with a little touch of Dorado Skin on the larger clumps of texture. Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.
"How can you use the Dip on a vehicle? You can't dip it!" Well, same as a wash doesn't literally clean a miniature... sometimes a name is just a name. I can't count the number of times I've been told I'm using the Quickshade Dip incorrectly because I'm not literally dipping miniatures - the Army Painter even suggests what they call the 'splash-on method' themselves!
The secret is in a broad, flat-edged brush for those large panels where you want as few brush strokes as possible to show. For once, I'd suggest a relatively cheap, store-bought synthetic brush - something you don't mind eventually being demolished by the Dip.
For comparison's sake, here's that classic Rhino painting guide: youtu.be/GfS0pe8Sy-o This uses acrylic washes rather than the Dip, but some of the principles are the same and it might give you some more ideas!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming and Painting Notes
02:41 - Preparing the Dip
03:07 - Applying the Dip
06:46 - After Curing
07:12 - Post Varnish!
07:49 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - I Saw the Plasma Glow
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter)
ARMY PAINTER:
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Polished Silver (Speedpaint Marker)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Rust (Effect)
Rust Tone (Wash)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Satin Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Oak Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Burning Ore with a little touch of Dorado Skin on the larger clumps of texture. Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.
![Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q2bj3ygxaJ0/mqdefault.jpg "Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]
How can you use the Dip on a vehicle? You cant dip it! Well, same as a wash doesnt literally clean a miniature... sometimes a name is just a name. I cant count the number of times Ive been told Im using the Quickshade Dip incorrectly because Im not literally dipping miniatures - the Army Painter even suggests what they call the splash-on method themselves!
The secret is in a broad, flat-edged brush for those large panels where you want as few brush strokes as possible to show. For once, Id suggest a relatively cheap, store-bought synthetic brush - something you dont mind eventually being demolished by the Dip.
For comparisons sake, heres that classic Rhino painting guide: https://youtu.be/GfS0pe8Sy-o This uses acrylic washes rather than the Dip, but some of the principles are the same and it might give you some more ideas!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming and Painting Notes
02:41 - Preparing the Dip
03:07 - Applying the Dip
06:46 - After Curing
07:12 - Post Varnish!
07:49 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - I Saw the Plasma Glow
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter)
ARMY PAINTER:
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Polished Silver (Speedpaint Marker)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Rust (Effect)
Rust Tone (Wash)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Satin Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Oak Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Burning Ore with a little touch of Dorado Skin on the larger clumps of texture. Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.")
![Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q7E9SfEeXl4/mqdefault.jpg "Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]
There have actually been two formations known as the British Army of the Rhine. The first was an occupation force following the end of the Great War, though the second tends to be what people first think of: British forces attached to NATOs Northern Army Group to defend West Germany from potential Soviet invasion. Of course, these miniatures would work for just about any conflict or peacekeeping mission through the latter half of the 20th Century, and it never hurts to practice painting camo!
Check out the Lionheart: Cold War British STLs Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flankmarch/lionheart-cold-war-british-stls Already funded and ploughing through stretch goals!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - A Few Interesting Numbers...
03:38 - On to Painting! Priming Notes.
04:40 - Painting DPM
08:01 - Remaining Basecoats
10:02 - Shading Wash
11:27 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:30 - The Finished Infantryman
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Deathguard Green (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Underhive Ash (Dry)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Skeleton Bone
Leather Brown
Tanned Flesh
Strong Skin Shade
Speedpaint Medium
VALLEJO:
German Grey
Refractive Green
Khaki
Stone Grey
Black
Ivory
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QHOolToLZik/mqdefault.jpg "Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]
Though not all Plague Marines in 40k are necessarily Death Guard, owing to Nurgles rather generous gifts... theyre a striking majority of the Lord of Decays forces in the 41st Millennium.
00:00 - Intro
01:05 - Priming Notes
01:51 - Basecoats
12:09 - Shading
13:57 - Painting the Green Smoke
16:07 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
19:31 - The Finished Death Guard
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Angelic Red (Fanatic)
Moldy Wine (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Heavy Metal (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Emperor Gold (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Prairie Ochre (Fanatic)
Greedy Gold (Fanatic)
Grimdark Shadow (Fanatic Wash - John Blanche)
Speedpaint Medium
Forest Sprite (Speedpaint)
Absolution Green (Speedpaint)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Castellan Green (Base)
Death Guard Green (Base)
Corax White (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Colour Forge)
THE BASE: Apply a layer of GW Stirland Mud then heavily drybrush with GW Ryza Rust, and lightly with GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and done!")
![Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QSojBNg93Ho/mqdefault.jpg "Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]
The Deutsches Afrika Korps was the German expeditionary force in North Africa from early 1941 to mid 1943. Originally sent to bolster Italian defences of its colonies, the DAK would do battle against all the Allied nations that took part in the famed desert campaigns of the broadly defined mid-war period of WWII.
Kradschützen were in essence the armed recce elements of Panzer divisions, but were more than capable of fighting on foot as infantry forces when the need arose. Capable of moving rapidly to pressure points along the line, their mobility made them dangerous opponents wherever the Allies would meet them in battle.
The Over There - Part 2 Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/w3-wargames/over-there-part-2
Licensed printer for Matt Webb in the UK: https://mdminis.co.uk/
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming Notes & Some History!
03:12 - Basecoats
14:10 - Shading
15:55 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
21:34 - The Finished Bike
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Desert Yellow (Vallejo Spray)
VALLEJO:
Green Ochre
Desert Yellow
Green Yellow (881)
Middlestone
Dark Sand
Medium Grey
German Camo Med. Brown
Tan Earth
Iraqi Sand
Mahogany Brown
Flat Brown
German Grey
Ivory
Azure
ARMY PAINTER:
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Ruddy Umber (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
Soft Tone (Fanatic)
Speedpaint Medium
Buffed Hide (Fanatic)
Tourmaline Skin (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Reikland Fleshshade (Wash)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish (Army Painter Spray)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of PVA glue, then sprinkle on a suitably rocky sand mixture - Ive used Army Coarse from War World Scenics. With much thinner PVA, go over the top of this to seal it to the base. Once dry, paint in Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily overbrush with Vallejo Desert Yellow, finally drybrushing Vallejo Dark Sand. Add small dots of PVA with static grass to taste, along with a couple of tufts to add variation in height.")
![Painting Great War German Empire Troops - Simple, Quick Methods [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QXMrXg743d8/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Great War German Empire Troops - Simple, Quick Methods [How I Paint Things]
The alterations introduced by the Kaiser in late 1915 would massively simplify the cut and production of German Empire uniforms throughout the rest of the war - just as well, as Germany was already running short on even the materials to make buttons. Luckily, painting them for the tabletop is a much simpler matter than provisioning the Imperial German Army!
Check out the (absolutely enormous) Wargames Atlantic range through the following affiliate link, and I net a wee commission off any purchases at no extra cost to you! https://wargamesatlantic.com?ref=sonicsledge
Find more information for the details and colours used on the bayonet knots mentioned in the video here: http://www.germancolonialuniforms.co.uk/militaria/bayonet%20knots.htm
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Quick Miniature Notes
01:32 - Priming Notes
02:06 - Basecoats
09:37 - Shading
11:06 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
13:59 - The Finished Soldier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Ash Grey (Army Painter Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
German Field Grey WWII
Stone Grey
Flat Brown
German Camo Pale Brown
German Grey
Beige Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Jasper Skin (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Command Khaki (Fanatic)
Barren Dune (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, lightly drybrushed Dark Sand. Add dots of PVA and static grass, then tufts of your choice - these orange meadow tufts came from Green Stuff World. While drybrushing the base, once most of the paint is rubbed off your brush, lightly stipple at legs and greatcoat to add a bit of dust to the uniform.
Marine Juice MkIV/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!")
![Quick Review & Paint: Classic Fantasy Guards - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/R5rQGSCz0Xs/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Review & Paint: Classic Fantasy Guards - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]
It turns out that paintings like a lot of skills - if you dont use it, it rusts a little! The methods are still all totally valid, though I discovered after a month (actually closer to five weeks) of not having painted anything, I found certain colours moving off my brush differently to how I remembered, having to get fresh paint after having added too much water to a mix, and so forth. So if youre wondering whether or not practice is really all its cracked up to be, heck yeah, it is! Keep your eye in!
Find the Guards box itself (and a whole host of others!) at Wargames Atlantics site: https://wargamesatlantic.com/collections/classic-fantasy/products/guards
Check out Guards of Traitors Toll, coming soon from Grey for Now Games: https://greyfornow.com/en-eu/pages/guards-of-traitors-toll
00:00 - Intro
00:50 - A Brisk Review!
03:36 - Priming Notes
04:43 - Basecoats
14:07 - Shading/Wash
15:20 - Highlights
11:30 - Finishing Touches
14:27 - The Finished Guards
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, and Fred - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Banshee Brown (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Moonstone Skin (Fanatic)
Demigod Flames (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Temple Gate Teal (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Heavy Metal (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Blanched Berry (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Daemonic Yellow (Fanatic)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Pharoah Guard (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
Mulled Berry (Fanatic)
Moldy Wine (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily drybrushed with Vallejo Stone Grey with a little touch of Vallejo Pale Green Grey on the larger clumps of texture. Tiny dots of PVA and static grass to add texture.")
![Painting for Bolt Action: Imperial Japans Special Naval Landing Forces [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RS1Gi44f7zg/mqdefault.jpg "Painting for Bolt Action: Imperial Japans Special Naval Landing Forces [How I Paint Things]
The Army and Navy of Imperial Japan were very rarely in agreement with how anything about the war ought to be conducted. They squabbled over resources, often doubled up on efforts without realizing, and even when they tried to work together it was without adequate training or preparation for the task ahead. The Navy had long carried its own shipboard infantry - the Special Naval Landing Force - who would be the spearpoint of large scale military action. As an emergent naval power, where Japanese ships went, victory was sure to follow - it was the shore parties of the SNLF that were meant to seize and secure it on the ground.
Check out the entire Warlord Games range at their website here: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:45 - Priming Notes
01:44 - Basecoats
08:45 - Shading
10:35 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:33 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Khaki
Flat Flesh
Flat Brown
Beige Brown
Green Grey (971)
Green Brown
Deck Tan
ARMY PAINTER:
Woodland Camo (Fanatic)
Olive Drab (Fanatic)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!")
![Practice & Warm-Ups - Killer Robots: Easy and Fun! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RVJzQaq4CWg/mqdefault.jpg "Practice & Warm-Ups - Killer Robots: Easy and Fun! [How I Paint Things]
I think Ill call him H.A.R.M.eR. Feels appropriate to that colour scheme. Die, Team Venture! ✌
After managing to do myself an injury (in Kiwi parlance!) to my wrist, I spent last week without a brush in my hand. Turns out that after a while, you get a little tetchy not being able to enjoy your hobbies! But its just like riding a bike: youre a little wobbly and might collide with someone after years off the wheels, so... probably best to put a little practice time in, right?
Check out Imitation of Life here on MMF: https://www.myminifactory.com/users/ImitationofLife#/
00:00 - Intro
01:13 - Priming Notes
02:01 - Basecoats
09:26 - Shading
11:01 - Highlighting & Finishing Touches
13:48 - The Finished Robot
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Bone White (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Weapon Bronze (Fanatic)
Greedy Gold (Fanatic)
Aqua Alchemy (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Wyvern Red (Fanatic)
Demonic Yellow (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
Speedpaint Medium
Shining Silver
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Caribbean Ocean (Speedpaint)
VARNISH:
Munitorum Varnish (Citadel Spray)")
![Review & Paint - New Winter US Army from Warlord Games [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RZTvxosuuj0/mqdefault.jpg "Review & Paint - New Winter US Army from Warlord Games [How I Paint Things]
Sometimes its easier to review something when it falls short, since it gives you time to muse over what might have been done better. When somethings really good instead, well... nuts! Its way harder to pick on! 🤣 The new winter US Army troops from Warlord are a brilliant kit, and if youve held off a winter-themed army for lack of plastic options, worry no longer. This plastic box has you sorted.
Check out the winter US Infantry, winter Fallschirmjaeger, and the rest of the Bolt Action range from Warlord Games: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER
Skip ahead around the 17:50 mark here to watch one method of basing up your infantry for winter action! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWuh53uR308
If you want to see the original (and award-winning!) winter US guide with Vallejo paints, here it is: https://youtu.be/w-Ma4r1KtDs Its a slightly older guide by now, but still holds up!
00:00 - Intro
01:11 - Review Time!
04:31 - Priming Notes
04:53 - Basecoats
12:26 - Applying the Wash
14:15 - The Finished Trio
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Leather Brown (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Jasper Skin (Fanatic)
Army Green (Fanatic)
Patagon Pine (Fanatic)
Tomb King Tan (Fanatic)
Olive Drab (Fanatic)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Pale Sand (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Woodland Camo (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
BASE:
Stirland Mud, tufts (these are Mountain Tufts from Army Painter), generous helping of Valhallan Blizzard. Jab the snow flock with an old brush to shape and fluff it, then paint the base rim in a dark brown of your choice. Done!")
![Paint ANY Large Tyranid Miniature - Same as the Little Ones! [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RpBapASKQC8/mqdefault.jpg "Paint ANY Large Tyranid Miniature - Same as the Little Ones! [How I Paint Things]
If theres one thing I could share with everyone struggling to find the motivation or the skill they think is necessary to tackle a larger miniature than the basic infantry in a Tyranid army, itd be this: Stop overthinking it!
Just as Ultramarines have, over the years, changed slightly in GWs house style, so too do Tyranid Hive Fleets occasionally switch up a colour or two. Im a sucker for the red hooves and dark chitin of Hive Fleet Leviathan, so if you prefer the slightly older style with the raft of new paints thatre available these days, check this out!
00:00 - Intro
01:04 - Priming Notes
02:04 - Painting Time!
12:37 - The Finished Winged Prime
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison and Woodcock - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Vallejo Brown Earth textured paint, drybrush Dark Sand and paint base rim with Brown Sand. Tufts to taste, and done! Nice and fast.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Matt White (Army Painter)
CITADEL:
Magos Purple (Contrast)
Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer)
Shyish Purple (Contrast)
Leviathan Purple (Contrast)
Genestealer Purple (Layer)
Warpfiend Grey (Layer)
Reikland Fleshshade (Shade)
Imperial Fist (Contrast)
Black Templar (Contrast)
Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
Carroburg Crimson (Shade)
White Scar (Layer)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Easy One-Coat Steel Legion - Speedpaint, Contrast & Washes [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RqqDw2ClLc8/mqdefault.jpg "Easy One-Coat Steel Legion - Speedpaint, Contrast & Washes [How I Paint Things]
Forgive me if Im sounding a little croaky in this video; its not been great news for health in the House of Sledge the last few days! Darktide got into me good, and with the release of the Steel Legion-styled cosmetics for player characters, I got hit again by a wave of nostalgia and decided to take it easy today with something nice, simple, and fast.
The Armageddon Steel Legion were an army that I always wanted as a kid. Simple to paint, they look dead cool, and all those tanks! While ordinarily Id suggest its easy enough to trim the vent from the top of the new plastic Krieg miniatures and paint them up as Steel Legion, these guys are 3D prints. Having been asked in the past that I not advertise where I source my STLs, youll need to do a little Google-fu to find them; theyre not all that difficult to locate, especially with the hint to go looking for 6-8/15mm versions. Cults3D is a good place to start.
I scaled mine up 184% from the 15mm originals, though you could eyeball it a little and try anything between 178-185% for true 28mm to more modern 40k sizes.
00:00 - Intro
00:39 - Priming Notes
01:02 - Painting Time
09:47 - The Finished Troopers
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL:
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Cygor Brown (Contrast) - Highlight either GW Gorthor Brown or AP Dryad Brown
Black Templar (Contrast) - Highlight GW Dawnstone
Basilicanum Grey (Contrast)
Wraithbone (Base)
Aggaros Dunes (Contrast) - Highlight AP Skeleton Bone
Leadbelcher (Base) - Highlight GW Stormhost Silver
ARMY PAINTER:
Occultist Cloak (Speedpaint)
Satchel Brown (Speedpaint)
Magic Blue (Speedpaint)
Military Shade (Wash)
Dark Tone (Wash)
BASING:
Apply a thick layer of Vallejo Brown Earth texture paste, then drybrush with a light beige like Tyrant Skull. Add a tuft or two and done!")
