Sonic Sledgehammer StudioThe tendency for people to overthink painting their Astartes vehicles is pretty common. But you already know how to paint the Marines themselves! If you can paint Space Marine infantry, you can already paint their vehicles; it's just a different approach to the candy coated ceramite look!
00:00 - Intro 00:57 - Laying Down Basecoats 05:18 - Shading Vehicles 08:26 - Highlights and Weathering 16:12 - The Finished Vehicle
Paint any Space Marine Vehicle the Same as Infantry! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-04 | The tendency for people to overthink painting their Astartes vehicles is pretty common. But you already know how to paint the Marines themselves! If you can paint Space Marine infantry, you can already paint their vehicles; it's just a different approach to the candy coated ceramite look!
00:00 - Intro 00:57 - Laying Down Basecoats 05:18 - Shading Vehicles 08:26 - Highlights and Weathering 16:12 - The Finished Vehicle
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter) Wraithbone (Citadel)
CITADEL: Loren Forest (Layer) Leadbelcher (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Marine Juice: Reikland Fleshshade, Nuln Oil (Shades), Lahmian Medium (Technical) Praxeti White (Dry) Rhinox Hide (Base) Skrag Brown (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayStar Trek Away Team: Seriously Simple Painting - Drybrushing & Contrast [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-11-22 | Contrast, Speedpaint, and other 'one coat' solutions are bringing a lot of people to the painting table who might previously have been too nervous to give the hobby a shot. Sometimes the point of painting isn't necessarily to create a gorgeous piece of art, but to have something visible on the table so everyone knows what it is - and oh boy, nobody is going to say they can't see an away team painted this bright!
Grab the STL pack for the away team or the physical kit of resin miniatures from Modiphius' webstore: modiphius.net
00:00 - Intro 01:12 - Assembly Notes - Scale, Fit & Such 02:37 - The 'Pre-Shade' 04:55 - Painting With Contrast 13:03 - The Finished Away Team
THE BASE: Vallejo 'Brown Earth' texture paste, drybrushed with Dark Sand. Armageddon Dust and Tyrant Skull will give a very similar finish. Add tufts to taste, and paint base rim with Vallejo Brown Sand.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: White Scar (Citadel Spray)
CITADEL: Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Praxeti White (Dry) Akhelian Green (Contrast) Talassar Blue (Contrast) Contrast Medium (Technical) Fyreslayer Flesh (Contrast) Gulliman Flesh (Contrast) Iyanden Yellow (Contrast) Asurmen Blue (Contrast) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Black Templar (Contrast) Black Legion (Contrast) Liberator Gold (Layer) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Wyldwood (Contrast) Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
VALLEJO: Off-White Chrome (Model Air)
VARNISH: Varnish+ (Instar)Knee-Deep in the Dirt: Mudskulls for Star Wars Legion [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-11-16 | The Imperial Swamp Troopers - known colloquially as Mudskulls due to ordinarily being caked in mud and sludge - are a branch of the Imperial Army existing outside the Stormtrooper Corps. Not the kind of front line combat experience most recruits would be keen on joining up for...!
Check out the latest releases, STL sets, and links to Patreon and international licensed printers at darkfiredesigns.com - use the code SonicSledge at checkout to get 10% off any STL purchases!
CITADEL: Stormvermin Fur (Layer) Eshin Grey (Layer) Mephiston Red (Base) Iron Warriors (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Mournfang Brown (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Nuln Oil (Shade) Astrogranite Debris (Technical) Dawnstone (Dry) Skrag Brown (Layer) Dryad Bark (Base) Baneblade Brown (Layer) Rhinox Hide (Base) 'Ardcoat (Technical) Athonian Camoshade (Shade)
VALLEJO: German Grey German Field Grey Basalt Grey (basing colour, really your choice) Green Grey
ARMY PAINTER: Filthy Cape
VARNISH: Varnish+ (Instar)Leagues of Votann - Painting Trans-Hyperian League [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-11-10 | Nothing catches the eye on the table like bright orange and yellow, and I think with how easy Contrast makes these super sharp colours, we're going to see a lot more of these armies in the future! Painting the Trans-Hyperian League might seem daunting, but breaking it down into typical steps will help demonstrate it's way simpler than you'd think.
00:00 - Intro 00:53 - Assembly Notes - The Headless Squat! 01:57 - Painting the Body & Weapon 12:19 - Painting the Head 14:16 - White Stripes & Decals 15:52 - The Finished Hearthkyn
THE BASE: Vallejo 'Brown Earth' texture paste, drybrushed with Dark Sand. Armageddon Dust and Tyrant Skull will give a very similar finish. Add tufts to taste, and paint base rim with Vallejo Brown Sand.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: Wraithbone (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL: Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast) Lugganath Orange (Layer) Karak Stone (Layer) Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base) Black Legion (Contrast) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Garaghak's Sewer (Contrast) Retributor Armour (Base) Basilicanum Grey (Contrast) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Pink Horror (Layer) Volupus Pink (Contrast) White Scar (Layer) Dawnstone (Dry) Ushabti Bone (Layer) Guilliman Flesh (Contrast) Flayed One Flesh (Layer) Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer) Aggaros Dunes (Contrast) Screaming Skull (Layer) Corax White (Base)
VALLEJO: Chrome (Model Air)
VARNISH: Army Painter Matt Varnish SprayThe Siege of Vos-Phorax: The Imperial Trench Devils [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-11-08 | I love grimy, hard-bitten sci-fi miniatures. Guys that look like they've been caked in dust and debris for weeks at a time who are all that's left of a thin, determined line against some horrific enemy from beyond the world... or reality itself. Sometimes there's a line of miniatures that looks exactly like what you've had in mind for years, and sometimes - even more rarely - someone goes ahead and makes them available to the rest of us!
Find the Quartermaster3D Facebook group here, with a bunch of additional previews and painted examples of the Trench Devils: facebook.com/people/Quartermaster-3D/100064033445197 If you're looking for licensed sellers once the Kickstarter is completed for physical prints of the Trench Devils, ask here!
THE BASE: Astrogranite texture paint, Agrax Earthshade, drybrush Dawnstone and then Underhive Ash. Finish with tiny dots of PVA and static grass to taste - I've used 'Patchy Grass' from Warlord Games.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER: Field Grey
VALLEJO: Stone Grey German Camo Black Brown German Grey
CITADEL: Morghast Bone (Base) Dawnstone (Layer) Mournfang Brown (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Corax White (Base) Zandri Dust (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Tyrant Skull (Dry) Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base) Gorthor Brown (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Stormhost Silver (Layer) Dawnstone (Dry) Underhive Ash (Dry)
VARNISH: Varnish+ (Instar)The Fanciest Helmets of WWII: Painting Warlord Games Bersaglieri! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-31 | Bersaglieri are each skilled marksmen and soldiers trained for the peak of physical fitness. Formed in 1836 in the Kingdom of Sardinia - later the Kingdom of Italy - they were intended as highly mobile light infantry, capable of filling the skirmishing and shock role usually assigned to units such as dragoons. The tale goes that the feathers on their hats were originally intended as a shade for the sharpshooter's eyes, and they've remained a mark of distinction worn by the elite of Italy's armed forces to this day.
The new plastic Bersaglieri kit from Warlord Games is packed with options for fielding these elite Italian troops on the field. With a couple of Breda machine guns and a wealth of SMGs and carbines on each sprue, they can be tooled up for close encounters or long range fire support depending on how you want them to fit into your army - and with all the tropical hats and helmets you'll need to give them their distinctive black capercaillie feathers!
THE BASE: PVA and sand, let dry, then apply Flat Brown drybrushed with Brown Sand then Dark Sand. Add grass and tufts to taste.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER: Tanned Flesh Field Grey German Army Fieldgrey (Warlord Rapid Deployment)
VALLEJO: Iraqi Sand Khaki (Vallejo Game Color) German Field Grey Ivory Beige Brown German Camo Black Brown German Uniform German Grey Black Grey Stone Grey Basalt Grey Flat Flesh Ivory Gunmetal (Vallejo Model Air) Blue Grey Pale
VARNISH: Army Painter Matt Varnish SprayFlames of War British Infantry - HighlightingSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-27 | Infantry sections form the core of a British Rifle Company in Flames of War, and even when you're playing an Armoured Company you'll benefit from having a few sections of tough, reliable men to hunker down and protect the ground your tanks have seized. Whether you're playing with multi-based infantry like this or painting them individually the technique is the same - you need to be able to see shapes at a distance!
Check out Storm of Steel Wargaming, starting with Alex's painting guide on 15mm British infantry over here: youtube.com/watch?v=fXZsihvi86g
THE BASE: Vallejo diorama effects 'Brown Earth,' drybrushed Dark Sand and paint the rim in Brown Sand. Apply static grass and tufts as you like. Easy as!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: English Uniform (Vallejo Spray Primer)
VALLEJO: Red Leather Beige Brown Flat Earth German Grey US Dark Green Light Mud (Panzer Aces) Beige Red Khaki Grey Oily Steel
CITADEL: Death Guard Green (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Nurgling Green (Layer)Plastic-Looking Black Armour - Simple and Quick! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-26 | Check out the Dark Fire Designs range of STLs at their site here: darkfiredesigns.com and use the discount code SonicSledge at checkout for 10% off any STL purchases! It's not an affiliate link or similar, just a very kind offer from the team for viewers here on YouTube. Physical kits are also available through their third party distributors worldwide - you'll be able to get your hands on these guys no matter where you are!
VALLEJO: German Grey Blue Grey Pale Light Sea Grey Black Grey Basalt Grey Chrome (Model Air Metallic)
ARMY PAINTER: Dark Tone Quickshade Mixing Medium
VARNISHES: Vallejo Acrylic Matt (from the big white bottle) Instar Varnish+Sons of the Phoenix, Quick and Easy! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-24 | The Sons of the Phoenix descend from Rogal Dorn - allegedly - and are famed by the faithful and devout across the Imperium for their firey rhetoric and relentless assaults with prayers flowing from both their vox and their many, many purity seals... but are they really dutiful sons of the Emperor, or compensating for something more sinister?
Painting white armour has a reputation for being difficult, but the reality is as simple as a white primer, a shade and a couple of highlights. Good enough for army work!
Check out the candles from Anvil Industry here: anvilindustry.co.uk/candles?affiliate=sonicsledgehammer As well as the rest of the Exo Lords accessories range, some of the Burning Rose parts work really well as additions to Space Marines if you're looking for slightly smaller, more discreet upgrades and extras.
THE BASE: Armageddon Dust, Seraphim Sepia, drybrush Tyrant Skull, paint the base rim in XV-88 and add tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: Matt Black, Matt White (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Volupus Pink (Contrast) Contrast Medium (Technical) Black Templar (Contrast) Black Legion (Contrast) Skeleton Horde (Contrast) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Imperial Fist (Contrast) - using Iyanden Yellow/Medium mix in the video Iron Hands Steel (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Marine Juice: Equal mix of Nuln Oil, Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium White Scar (Layer) Dawnstone (Layer) Liberator Gold (Layer)
VALLEJO: BlackThe 300th How I Paint Things! Doctor Who - Tom BakerSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-17 | It turns out that this miniature is actually from Gale Force 9's boxed board game, Time of the Daleks. There was some licensing between Warlord and GF9 - I got a little bag of Doctors in a mystery box from Warlord Games, so you can understand the confusion! You can find out more about Time of the Daleks here: doctorwho.gf9games.com
Three hundred full-length videos. Seems a bit crazy when you say it out loud, or actually write it down. That's 551 hours spent in my video editing software - almost 23 whole days, if you lay it out like that. Thanks for sticking around.
00:00 - Intro 01:09 - A Note on Material 01:49 - Basecoats & Waistcoats 09:32 - Shading 10:30 - Highlights & Finishing Touches 15:14 - Time Lord Victorious
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayPainting Flames of War British Armour - Fast and Simple! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-15 | Issue and deployment of these late war monsters packing the powerful 17pdr high velocity gun - known informally as the 77mm - was slow, but wherever they fought they marked themselves as dangerous foes for German tankers. A combination of good speed, decent armour and the massively powerful main gun make Comets an excellent choice on the tabletop, too! Grab your own Comet armoured troop from www.flamesofwar.com or wherever Battlefront miniatures are stocked near you!
Thanks again to Battlefront for sending along the Comet for me to paint up, and remember that these methods will work for almost any British vehicles in the European Theater of Operations. Cromwells, Daimler Dingos, Humber armoured cars - if it's green, it's this easy!
CITADEL: Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Nurgling Green (Dry) Dryad Bark (Base) Fenrisian Grey (Layer) Ulthuan Grey (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Mournfang Brown (Base) Necron Compound (Dry) Zandri Dust (Base) Karak Stone (Layer) Steel Legion Drab (Base) Morghast Bone (Base) 'Ardcoat (Technical)
VALLEJO: German Grey (or use Citadel's Corvus Black)Workbench Wednesday - 12th October, 2022Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-12 | About time I got back on with these things, don't you think?
1250pts (and a bit more) of Bolt Action finished in a week, and the 300th How I Paint Things coming up. It's all action stations this Wednesday as I wrack my brain to come up with something interesting for the occasion!Victoria Miniatures New Halfling Snipers [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-10 | I've always had a soft spot for the abhuman options in the Astra Militarum range. There's just something properly weirdabout ratlings and ogryns that makes them so compelling - throw in a few psykers to really put the Imperial in the Imperial Guard! Still, there's only a small selection (no pun intended) of ratling miniatures available to the plucky Imperial Guard commander... until now!
CITADEL: Morghast Bone (Base) Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Ogryn Camo (Layer) Steel Legion Drab (Base) Death Guard Green (Base) Mournfang Brown (Base) Zandri Dust (Base) Leadbelcher (Base) Ionrach Skin (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Karak Stone (Layer) Screaming Skull (Layer) Reikland Fleshshade (Shade) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Kislev Flesh (Layer) Flayed One Flesh (Layer) Nurgling Green (Layer) Baneblade Brown (Layer) Skrag Brown (Layer) Terminatus Stone (Dry) Ushabti Bone (Layer) Stormhost Silver (Layer) XV-88 (Base)
VALLEJO: Flat Brown Black
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayCyberpunk & Contrast - Mixing Magic & Technology for the Tabletop [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-04 | Cyberpunk as a genre has some incredibly era-specific styles. The dreary rain-soaked neon noir of Bladerunner in the 80s, the Burger King Kid's Club look of 1995's cult classic Hackers, skipping into the early 2000s with black shades and plenty of trenchcoats in The Matrix. Our modern eye to a sideways future promises a riot of colour and self expression - more in keeping with Hackers than Deus Ex's sepia-soaked cityscapes. With Edgerunners having crashed on to the scene, it seemed timely to pick up something neat for use on the tabletop, whether playing an RPG (like Cyberpunk, for example!) or something more in the vein of Space Station Zero.
Find out more about Space Station Zero and the funky art style that inspired today's miniature at the official site: snarlingbadger.com/spacestationzero
CITADEL: Wraithbone (Base) Black Legion (Contrast) Talassar Blue (Contrast) Contrast Medium (Technical) Volupus Pink (Contrast) Aggaros Dunes (Contrast) Garaghak's Sewer (Contrast) Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast) Gore-Grunta Fur (Contrast) Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast) Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast) Iyanden Yellow (Contrast) Fyreslayer Flesh (Contrast) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Necron Compound (Dry) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Terminatus Stone (Dry)
VALLEJO: Ivory Off-White Chrome (Metallic Air)
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayBack to the Front! Channel Return and Hobby RoundupSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-10-03 | It's been a wonderfully calm few days, and in that time I've spent most of it preparing for little wars... ✌
Space Station Zero is available from Wargame Vault here: wargamevault.com/product/404243/Space-Station-ZeroPainting British Vehicles for North Africa - Desert Rats for Bolt Action [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-20 | Though the Churchill Mk III mounted a 6pdr gun in its turret, by the time they arrived in the desert they were slightly undergunned when compared to their German opponents. Luckily, the monstrously thick armour these behemoths mounted would shrug off all but the heaviest firepower, so they could roll into combat over terrain considered impassable by German tankers, buying time for friendly forces to bracket and destroy enemy vehicles. A design with an eye to a repeat of the Great War, the Churchill was nonetheless a powerful asset when properly deployed, and a remarkable infantry support tank.
'Kingforce' was named for its commander, Major Norris King MC of the Royal Gloucester Hussars. Under 1st Armoured Division, Kingforce went into action twice, first on October 27th and then November 3rd, 1942. Its six vehicles claimed five enemy tank kills and three anti-tank guns for the loss of one Churchill - Kingforce would take 106 enemy hits during these two battles, no doubt taking the brunt of even worse damage which could have hit other friendlies.
Check out the upcoming 'A Gentleman's War' starter box for Bolt Action, featuring British 8th Army and Deutsches Afrika Korps pitted against one another in the desert. It's also the first way to get your hands on the new plastic Humber and SdKfz 222 armoured cars! store.warlordgames.com/products/a-gentlemans-war-bolt-action-starter-set?aff=10
00:00 - Intro 00:41 - Painting Time! 07:30 - Chipping & Weathering 12:30 - The Finished Tank
VALLEJO: Pale Sand German Grey Light Sea Grey Burnt Umber Flat Brown German Camo Black Brown Bright Orange Oily Steel Flat Black Dark Sand
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayAfrika Korps Vehicles - Painting for Bolt Action Western Desert Games [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-16 | Shortages meant that Afrika Korps vehicles were commonly painted with whatever paint stocks were available, as long as it wasn't dark grey! Vehicle wear, sun bleaching and desert conditions would rapidly change the look, so no two vehicles in your army need necessarily look the same.
If you're painting tracks, start with a basecoat of Flat Brown all over, then drybrush Oily Steel over the raised edges of the tracks. Weather them with a little of the same sand mix as the rest of the tank and you'll be golden!
Check out the upcoming 'A Gentleman's War' starter box for Bolt Action, featuring British 8th Army and Deutsches Afrika Korps pitted against one another in the desert. It's also the first way to get your hands on the new plastic Humber and SdKfz 222 armoured cars! store.warlordgames.com/products/a-gentlemans-war-bolt-action-starter-set?aff=10
00:00 - Intro 00:41 - Painting Time! 06:11 - A Quick Note on Decals 06:31 - Back to Painting 06:48 - Chipping & Weathering 10:10 - The Finished Vehicle
VALLEJO: Iraqi Sand Pale Sand German Grey Black Grey Beige Brown Dark Sand
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayThe Eyes Have It: Making Eyes the Easiest Part of Painting! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-13 | Let's face it, we've all messed up a face or two in our time while holding our breath and jabbing haplessly at a miniature trying to dot the eyes. Luckily, there's an easier way! A classic tip that used to do the rounds in modeling magazines and club painting nights of old, shared many years later online. The beauty of the internet!
Today's miniature comes from Broken Anvil Miniatures, which you can find here: myminifactory.com/users/Broken%20Anvil%20Miniatures If you haven't got a printer, a quick Google search pointed out a couple of Etsy stores selling licensed prints; try contacting Broken Anvil directly if you need to know who's available in your area.
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesFlames of War Scenery: Painting City Blocks Fast! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-09 | Head to www.flamesofwar.com and find the 'Eastern Front: Ruined City' pack for your own table, which includes the pre-painted city block bases. These assemble super quickly, and paint up easily. An afternoon's hobby time to put a couple of really large pieces of terrain on the table? Sorted.
Scenery isn't always the most exciting thing to be painting, but with just a couple of colours and a quick drybrush you can have a table that looks a bit more interesting to fight over than brown plastic!
00:00 - Intro 01:09 - A Note on Priming 02:02 - Painting Time 09:12 - The Finished Product 09:32 - A Little Sneaky Bolt Action 09:53 - Outro
VALLEJO: Cavalry Brown German Camo Black Brown Dark Sand Khaki Beige Brown Green Grey (971)Defying the Inquisition: Painting Celestial Lions [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-07 | The Celestial Lions are an old favourite of mine and long overdue for some attention on the channel, but chances are you won't escape someone saying, "But the Inquisition killed them all!" any time you try putting them on the table. Well, dear viewer, today I have for you the ultimate response to these spurious claims! Mostly, "Nuh-uh," and also "They came back."
The head printed for today's miniature is actually from Reptilian Overlords' Spacenam range, mounted on a separate STL to make a 'Marine head.' Scale the head first to 110% normal size, and then wiggle it around in 3D Builder to sit on top of the head base. Once you're done, select all the parts, merge them together, and save as STL. Done!
THE BASE: Armageddon Dust, Seraphim Sepia, drybrush Tyrant Skull. Paint the base rim in XV-88 and add tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER: Retributor Armour (Citadel Spray Primer)
CITADEL: Retributor Armour (Base) Reikland Fleshshade (Shade) Sigmarite (Dry) Necron Compound (Dry) Macragge Blue (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Ushabti Bone (Layer) Mephiston Red (Base) White Scar (Layer) Nuln Oil (Shade) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Hoeth Blue (Layer) Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base) Stormhost Silver (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black Grey Black Saddle Brown Mahogany Brown
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayQuick Tips: Easy Tanith-Style Camo Cloaks [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-05 | It's easy to overthink just about every step of painting a miniature. The really simple stuff still works a treat, though! A quick drybrush and a splodge of colour or two and you've got the basis for just about any cameleoline cloaks your infantry can find!
Try swapping for a light grey basecoat and instead drybrushing with Longbeard Grey, then Basilicanum Grey Contrast, camo splotches in Black Templar and Drakenhof Nightshade, then final dots in Ulthuan Grey for an urban look to this same method.
Miniature from Station Forge's September Tribes STL pack, and will be available for general sale the following month. Remember you can get physical prints directly from them, too! myminifactory.com/users/StationForge
00:00 - Intro 00:50 - Painting Time 06:52 - The Finished Trooper
CITADEL: Death World Forest (Base) Nurgling Green (Dry) Nurgling Green (Layer) Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast) Militarum Green (Contrast) Cygor Brown (Contrast) Ogryn Camo (Layer)Review & Paint: Wargames Atlantic Bulldogs [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-09-01 | Useful for all manner of sci-fi games and with a ton of spares for kitbashing and converting in the boxes, the Wargames Atlantic Bulldogs will make a great addition to anyone's collection. I think those pith helmets are going to end up on a lot of Imperial Guard!
Check out the pre-order page for the Bulldogs over at Wargames Atlantic's main site: wargamesatlantic.com/collections/all/products/bulldogs One of the neat things for us EU-based hobbyists is that they handle IOSS for most orders, meaning you don't have to worry about paying additional customs fees or duties even though they're shipping from a UK-based warehouse. Nice!
00:00 - Intro 01:05 - Kit Review 06:32 - Painting the 'Praetorian' 12:51 - Painting the 'WWI Trooper' 19:07 - Both Finished!
THE BASES: First base is Vallejo Earth Texture 'Brown Earth,' drybrush Tyrant Skull, paint base rim in Vallejo Brown Sand. A couple tiny dots of PVA and some static grass, and done! The second base is Stirland Mud heavily drybrushed with Ryza Rust, then Eldar Flesh. As the paint runs out on your brush, start drybrushing roughly up the boots and legs to tie in the dusty colours to the miniature. Base rim painted in Rhinox Hide, Highland Grass tufts from Army Painter.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Primer Spray) Zandri Dust (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL: Guilliman Flesh (Contrast) Leviadon Blue (Contrast) Iyanden Yellow (Contrast) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Garaghak's Sewer (Contrast) Snakebite Leather (Contrast) Wraithbone (Base) White Scar (Layer) Skeleton Horde (Contrast) Black Legion (Contrast) Cygor Brown (Contrast) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Iron Warriors (Base) Nuln Oil (Shade)
Then the SECOND fella...
Steel Legion Drab (Base) Bugman's Glow (Base) Morghast Bone (Base) Death Guard Green (Base) Castellan Green (Base) Mournfang Brown (Base) Leadbelcher (Base) Balthasar Gold (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Baneblade Brown (Layer) Screaming Skull (Layer) Straken Green (Layer)
VALLEJO: German Grey (could substitute with Corvus Black)A Little Personal Hobby Time: Old West Legends [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-31 | Rounding off August with something that'll actually see some use on the table in my collection, it's time for a little fun. Old West gaming is making a big comeback recently, with games like Dead Man's Hand, Fistful of Lead, or @Little Wars TV's own Tombstone Tinderbox all out there, or the classic Legends of the Old West from the (sadly now defunct) Warhammer Historical line if you can find PDFs for it! Everybody's got their hands on a sixgun and a repeater rifle, it seems...
This guy's a 3D print from the recent 3DBreed.es Kickstarter, "Join or Die: Wanted," and there's also physical miniatures available from Great Escape Games, Artizan Designs, and a slew of others at the end of a Google search. It's a great time to throw down some cloth, some cactus patches, and get to blasting!
THE BASE: Vallejo Earth Texture 'Brown Earth,' drybrush Dark Sand, paint the base rim in Brown Sand.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Primer Spray)
CITADEL: Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Reikland Fleshshade (Shade) Skeleton Horde (Contrast) Contrast Medium (Technical) Mournfang Brown (Base) Karak Stone (Layer) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Nuln Oil (Shade) Kislev Flesh (Layer) Flayed One Flesh (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Stormvermin Fur (Layer) Skrag Brown (Layer)
VALLEJO: Off-White Desert Yellow Black Grey Burnt Umber Orange Brown Flat Red Medium Grey Bright Orange Iraqi Sand Chrome (Model Air)
VARNISH: Vallejo Matt SprayBolt Action: Late War Free French - Le Tricolore on US Gear [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-24 | Check out the Battle of the Bulge Campaign Book for Bolt Action for rules on fielding a Late War French force from the invasion of Normandy onward!
Hundreds of thousands of French soldiers displaced from their home country - including many who had fought for the Vichy regime - would return as part of the Normandy invasion in 1944, linking up with resistance forces throughout the country and ultimately liberate France. They would capture Alsace-Lorraine, Strasbourg, and collapse the Colmar pocket, spelling the end of the German XIXth Army. The right flank of the Allied advance would ultimately see more than a million men at arms fighting under the French flag, spelling an end to the Nazi regime.
Check out Wargames Atlantic 'Les Grognards' for a bunch of spares in their kits you can use, including officer kepis!
00:00 - Intro 00:52 - A Note on Adrian Helmets 02:30 - Priming and Basecoats 05:58 - Painting the French Tricolor 07:54 - Shading 08:43 - Highlights & Finishing Touches 12:32 - The Finished Soldier
THE BASE: PVA and sand followed by watered-down Flat Brown. Drybrush with Dark Sand, add static grass to taste, and paint the base rim in Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER: Tanned Flesh Combat Fatigues Strong Tone Quickshade Medium
VALLEJO: German Camo Beige Leather Brown Russian Uniform WWII Brown Violet/US Olive Drab (887) Beige Brown German Grey Off-White Azure Vermillion Light Mud (Panzer Aces) Ivory
CITADEL: Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Kislev Flesh (Layer) Iron Warriors (Base)
VARNISHES: Munitorum Varnish (Citadel Spray)Shoretroopers for Star Wars: Legion - Tabletop Ready & Taking it Further [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-22 | I really enjoyed Rogue One. I even liked most of Solo! But by far the coolest thing of the recent era of Star Wars movies has been seeing designers iterate on the classic Stormtrooper look. The Imperial Coastal Defence Stormtroopers - or Shoretroopers, to give them their common name - are one of those awesome units which looks like they have their roots in the Scout Trooper armour, light on their feet but surprisingly heavily armed.
Find the Tropical Trooper STLs over at darkfiredesigns.com and use promo code 'SonicSlege' without the quote marks to get a 10% discount on any STL purchases. Today's miniature is the officer figure from the Tropical Specialists pack with an E-11 blaster from the standard Tropical Squad pack.
THE BASE: Vallejo Earth Texture 'Brown Earth' applied with a ragged old brush, drybrushed with Tyrant Skull once it's dry. Paint the base rim in Brown Sand and you're done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Wraithbone (Citadel Spray)
CITADEL: Catachan Flesh (Base) Mournfang Brown (Base) Evil Sunz Scarlet (Layer) Ushabti Bone (Layer) Hoeth Blue (Layer) Corax White (Base) Flash Gitz Yellow (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Gorthor Brown (Layer) Stormvermin Fur (Layer) Dark Reaper (Layer) Necron Compound (Dry) Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer) Rhinox Hide (Base)
ARMY PAINTER: Soft Tone
VALLEJO: Black Black Grey Desert Dust Pigment
VARNISHES: Munitorum Varnish (Citadel Spray)Cowboys in Contrast - Lucky Luke Rides again! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-18 | How somebody reacts to the name 'Lucky Luke' will tell you a lot about where they're from. Translated into 23 languages, the Lucky Luke comic series created by Belgian cartoonist Morris is still best known in mainland Europe. A gunslinger 'faster than his own shadow,' Lucky Luke is a familiar lone wanderer archetype, a storied hero and gentleman of the Old West - just the sort of white hat good guy to put on the table for your western-themed games!
Visit 3DBreed.es to check out their range of STLs for home printing, and if you haven't got a printer you can visit one of their worldwide partners to purchase physical prints: 3dbreed.es/our-company-2021/#partner
THE BASE: Vallejo Earth Texture 'Brown Earth' applied with a ragged old brush, drybrushed with Dark Sand once it's dry. Paint the base rim in Brown Sand and you're done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Corax White (Citadel Spray)
CITADEL: Wraithbone (Base) Administratum Grey (Layer) Guilliman Flesh (Contrast) Iyanden Yellow (Contrast) Ultramarine Blue (Contrast) Corax White (Base) Space Wolves Grey (Contrast) Black Templar (Contrast) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Snakebite Leather (Contrast) Apothecary White (Contrast) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast) Nuln Oil (Shade) Russ Grey (Layer) Fenrisian Grey (Layer) Karak Stone (Layer) Flayed One Flesh (Layer) Troll Slayer Orange (Layer) Stormhost Silver (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Basilicanum Grey (Contrast) Skeleton Horde (Contrast) Terminatus Stone (Dry) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Abaddon Black (Base)
VARNISHES: Munitorum Varnish (Citadel Spray)Separatist Battle Droids - The Fastest Army Youll Ever Paint! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-15 | Whether you're a parent with a starter set and a kid who insists on playing the Clones, leaving you with the Separatist chaff, or - like me - you've got a soft spot for the faceless cannon fodder in any wargame... you're going to end up painting a lot of Battle Droids. As luck would have it, they're some of the easiest things in the game to paint - hovering around 2-5 minutes for unmarked basic droids to around 8-10 minutes once you include Commander or OOM droid markings, it needn't take you long to have a great-looking army on the table.
VARNISHES: Citadel Munitorum Varnish SprayChaos Cultists - Breaking Down Busy Miniatures [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-11 | Apologies for the slight dip in audio quality today! Not sure what's happened there, but the end result is slightly rough. Still clear enough to be heard properly, though, so rather than reshoot the whole thing...!
Chaos Cultists are one of those units which just look great on the table, especially when they're at the head of a Heretic Astartes force utterly uncaring as to their fate. They're cannon fodder, ultimately, whether you're an Iron Warrior or one of the Alpha Legion's many faceless brothers, but the miniatures are still quite detailed by most standards. I've chosen the Champion to demonstrate with since the same techniques will work across the entire line of Cultists, but there's usually a few fewer details to paint!
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Paint rim in Rhinox Hide and add tufts to taste.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Warpfiend Grey (Layer) Thondia Brown (Base) Leadbelcher (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Gal Vorbak Red (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Evil Sunz Scarlet (Layer) Wraithbone (Base) Marine Juice - Nuln Oil, Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium equal mix Necron Compound (Dry) Dawnstone (Dry) Word Bearers Red (Layer) Slaanesh Grey (Layer) Mournfang Brown (Base) Kislev Flesh (Layer) Stormhost Silver (Layer) Sycorax Bronze (Layer) Tuskgor Fur (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black Grey Black
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayFreehand Fire - Super Simple Salamanders [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-09 | The Salamanders were one of the Legions almost shattered in the wake of the Istvaan Drop Site Massacre, but those that remained formed an unbreakable iron core on which all arrayed against them would shatter. Painting their armour with individual flame motifs and markers can seem like a big challenge, but remembering that you're painting in layers you can easily clean up will help tackle their iconic look!
If you'd prefer to paint these guys from a single primer, either Citadel's Mechanicus Standard Grey or Army Painter's Uniform Grey will work just fine as well.
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush heavily Orange Red (Vallejo) then Flat Flesh (Vallejo), or use Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Paint rim in Rhinox Hide, add tufts to taste. While drybrushing the base, use the last of the 'dust' on your brush to flick over the legs and get them good and grimy!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter) Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
CITADEL: White Scar (Layer) Mephiston Red (Base) Averland Sunset (Base) Wraithbone (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Marine Juice: Equal mix of Nuln Oil, Reikland Fleshshade, Lahmian Medium. Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Liberator Gold (Layer) Necron Compound (Dry) Rhinox Hide (Base) Straken Green (Layer)
VALLEJO: Refractive Green (70.890) Black
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayAnvil Industry Corporate Security: Cyberpunk NPCs Done Quick! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-08 | A gyroscope error lead to today's video being filmed in portrait rather than landscape orientation - forgive the slight pixelated look as I figured far better to adjust it, but at the loss of some clarity! The painting method at least still works. 😅
THE BASE: PVA and sand, coat in Vallejo Flat Brown followed by heavy overbrush of any medium grey paint (Vallejo Basalt Grey in my case), drybrush Citadel Terminatus Stone, and 'dead grass' on tiny dots of PVA to taste.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Ultramarine Blue (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Etherium Blue (Dry) Drakenhof Nightshade (Shade - I'm using the old one) Corax White (Base) Iyanden Yellow (Contrast) Apothecary White (Contrast) Dawnstone (Dry) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Nuln Oil (Shade) Contrast Medium (Technical) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Talassar Blue (Contrast) Dawnstone (Layer) Stormvermin Fur (Layer) White Scar (Layer) Tyrant Skull (Dry) Agrax Earthshade (Shade - I'm using the old one)
VALLEJO: Black Grey Black Red Leather
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayA Revolution in Contrast: Getting Continental Army on the Table Fast! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-05 | One thing to bear in mind is that all these methods will look a little better on a day where it isn't so hot! 😅
With tips for three different uniforms of the period and a few suggestions on more besides, hopefully this will go a little way to showing you don't necessarily need the 'perfect' colour to paint historical miniatures - especially not when they tend to do half the work for you. Concerning a war that started almost 250 years ago, 'dark blue' works just fine for our purposes on the tabletop, and given the dizzying variety of other ragtag military issue clothing and civilian gear being worn by the Continental Army while they grappled with the British, there's really not much you can get wrong!
00:00 - Intro 00:46 - The 'Universal Base' 03:21 - Painting Faces 05:19 - The 1779 Continental Army Uniform 11:37 - Early War Uniform 14:17 - A Quick Look at Hunting Shirts 15:45 - The Finished Patriots
CITADEL: Seraphim Sepia (Shade) Wrack White (Dry) Praxeti White (Dry) Reikland Fleshshade (Shade) Leviadon Blue (Contrast) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Wyldwood (Contrast) Aggaros Dunes (Contrast) Black Templar (Contrast) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Liberator Gold (Layer) Altdorf Guard Blue (Layer) Wild Rider Red (Layer) Dawnstone (Layer) Nazdreg Yellow (Contrast) Snakebite Leather (Contrast) Skeleton Horde (Contrast) Basilicanum Grey (Contrast) Screaming Skull (Layer) Morghast Bone (Base)
VALLEJO: Beige Red Flat Flesh Off White
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayPaint & Review: WGAs Partisans - Free French, Volkssturm, Militia and More! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-08-03 | Throughout the Second World War, a great number of civilians would take up arms in defense of their homelands. The Maquis, the Warsaw Home Army Corps, the People's Militia, the Volkssturm - all took part in some of the largest feats of civilian resistance in history, and some would give their all for the cause in the face of overwhelming odds.
One thing I'd forgotten to mention was the release of the Panzer Lehr since I picked up these Partisans; yet another source of scale-appropriate arms and weapons which would fit these guys perfectly for a late war German or even Soviet militia force.
ARMY PAINTER: Tanned Flesh Ice Storm Strong Tone Quickshade Mixing Medium
VALLEJO: Intermediate Blue Gunship Green German Grey German Camo Pale Brown Beige Brown Flat Brown Ivory
CITADEL: Iron Hands Steel (Base) Cadian Fleshtone Kislev Flesh
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayHeresy & Hazard Stripes: Iron Warriors for the Age of Darkness [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-28 | They may have turned from the Emperor, but they're OSHA compliant.
Iron Warriors are an enduring favourite of mine. A seemingly simple colour scheme you can still do a ton with, and make every miniature an individual with heraldry and iconography made entirely of black and yellow stripes?! Glorious. They're a lot of fun to paint, and they look astounding on the table when you've got an army of them finished.
If you're curious about where the miniature comes from, Cults3D or Thingiverse are the places to start looking. For anything more specific, as a member of the Warrior Lodges might tell you, "I Can't Say."
00:00 - Intro 00:51 - Priming and Basecoats 05:23 - Shading 07:19 - Highlights & Finishing Touches 11:50 - The Finished Iron Warrior
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush heavily Orange Red (Vallejo) then Flat Flesh (Vallejo), or use Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Paint rim in Rhinox Hide, add tufts to taste. While drybrushing the base, use the last of the 'dust' on your brush to flick over the legs and get them good and grimy!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Leather Brown (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Leadbelcher (Base) White Scar (Base) Retributor Armour (Base) Averland Sunset (Base) Flash Gitz Yellow (Layer) Blood Angels Red (Contrast) Agrax Earthshade (Shade - the Old Stuff) Liberator Gold (Layer) Necron Compound (Dry)
VALLEJO: Black
GREEN STUFF WORLD: Light Rust (Citadel Skrag Brown watered down will do the trick, too!)
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayCreate 3D Printable Pauldrons for any Space Marine ChapterSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-27 | Seriously, it's that easy. In a few minutes you can have completely custom shoulder pads created from whatever image you can think of.
Keep things relatively simple and make sure there's enough of a gap between areas of detail that they'll still print cleanly and be visible on the surface of the pauldron, and make sure to test print a couple to check your results before loading up a whole build plate!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesKrieg on Armageddon: Rough Riders from Station Forges Grim Guard [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-26 | Rough Riders were a must-have unit in the halcyon days of 5th Edition Warhammer 40,000. There weren't really any great miniatures available for them, but we made do. Now that there's a bunch of really great options to take them in our games, they don't appear in Codex: Astra Militarum! Luckily, there are a bunch of great sci-fi themed tabletop games out there - one of my favourite alternatives is OnePageRules' fantastic Grimdark Future, where the Human Defence Force have access to cavalry and you can model them however you like... maybe something like this, even!
CITADEL: Zamesi Desert (Layer) Tyrant Skull (Dry) Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base) Longbeard Grey (Dry) Dawnstone (Layer) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Morghast Bone (Base) Corax White (Base) Waaagh Flesh (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) - I'm using the old one Stormvermin Fur (Layer) Gorthor Brown (Layer) Necron Compound (Dry) White Scar (Layer) Talassar Blue (Contrast) Stormhost Silver (Layer) Administratum Grey (Layer) Ushabti Bone (Air) Black Templar (Contrast)
VALLEJO: Black German Camo Black Brown Black Grey
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayPlastic, Metal, Resin: Whats the difference?Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-25 | This'll be familiar territory for some folks that've been involved with miniatures for a while, but if you're encountering a new material for the first time and aren't sure if there's anything different you need to know to paint it? Well... no, not really! All the same, here's some side by side comparisons of the most common materials you're likely to encounter when getting your hands on new miniatures.
One thing I did forget to mention is that plastic glue or 'polystyrene cement' will only work on - you guessed it - plastic. The other three materials mentioned will all require super glue or something similarly universal. Just don't use tape!
00:00 - Intro 01:04 - Material Overview 01:30 - Plastic 02:44 - Metal 04:52 - Resin 06:04 - 3D Printed Resin 06:42 - Priming the Lineup 07:56 - Side by Side Comparisons
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesSpeed Painting Sikh Soldiers (whew!) for Bolt Action 8th Army [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-22 | Speed painting doesn't have to mean ugly. With simple block colours, a shade and a handful of highlights you can get finished miniatures on the table very quickly that you can be proud to lead into battle. It's a method which works best if you're painting in block batches of 5 to 10 miniatures at a time, meaning that by the time you've finished a colour on the final miniature, the first one's dry and ready for the next stage. Go in with a step by step plan, know what colour you're using next, and you'll blaze through painting!
Check out the pre-order page for the new Bolt Action starter set here: store.warlordgames.com/products/a-gentlemans-war-bolt-action-starter-set?aff=10 Those new armoured cars are awesome, and the range of starter boxes for Bolt Action being expanded to cover other periods and theaters of the conflict is a great idea.
If you want to see that one week army, check it out here: instagram.com/p/Cd58Pt9sZl6 The 'plain' desert troopers would probably be even faster since you aren't having to paint a second colour for battledress!
00:00 - Intro 00:44 - Priming and Basecoats 05:52 - Shading 07:19 - Highlighting 10:36 - The Finished Soldier
VALLEJO: Heavy Skintone (Game Color) Iraqi Sand (or Green Grey 971) US Field Drab Beige Brown Khaki Dark Sand German Grey Brown Sand Cork Brown Basalt Grey
CITADEL: Iron Hands Steel (Base) Aly's Brown Liquid: 2:2:1 Agrax Earthshade, Seraphim Sepia, Lahmian Medium, then a little Drakenhof Nightshade. Screaming Skull (Layer) Iron Warriors (Base)
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayWorkbench Wednesday 20th July - Tank Time!Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-20 | I haven't melted yet, but it feels like it's coming!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesSide-by-Side Comparison: The Mars 2 Pro & Mars 3 Print ResultsSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-19 | Sometimes you just need to see whether or not there's any difference in results between two machines to know if you're going to pick one over the other, and in the case of these two entry-level Elegoo printers there's just enough difference to be visible if you squint. For me, the real difference is in the bigger build plate on the Mars 3 - definitely a selling point even if the print quality doesn't matter to you that much!
Resin: Elegoo Water Washable Grey Layer Height: 0.030mm Bottom Layer Count: 5 Exposure Time: 2.100s Bottom Exposure Time: 30s Light-Off Delay: 9.500s Lifting Speed: 25mm/min Anti-Aliasing on, Grey Level 3 with no Image Blur.
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesBig Sleeves and Tight Breeches: Making Landsknecht Easy [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-18 | Today's video is shot slightly differently than usual!
I've found that my camera will support natural 4K resolution while recording video - I might figure out rendering at 4K as well, but this crashed Vegas a couple times so... 1080p rendering for today. This means I can keep more in focus at a time, lighting is much simpler, and I'm also able to get neat zoomed in shots for close-ups which I hope you'll find interesting - keep an eye on the highlighting segment for a close-up of the Landsknecht's face! The only downside is that it currently only records in 30fps as a result, which I don't see as much of a negative personally; how fast do you really need to see a brush move? But I'm curious if the positives outweigh the negatives for folks, so if it's a help or a hindrance, sound off in the comments to let me know!
(Then YouTube killed the quality to 720p after processing! Well, that's unhelpful...)
Landsknechte were mercenary soldiers which formed the backbone of the fighting forces of the Germanic states in the Early Modern Period. Their massive pike blocks were fronted with 'Doppelsöldner' - men on double pay - who fought with two-handed swords or halberds to hack into the enemy pike formations and set about them up close. Theirs was the toughest, deadliest position in the formation - they got that double pay for a reason!
Landsknechte were also exempt from the sumptuary laws which governed codes of dress at the time, which meant they were permitted to go about the cities and countryside dressed flamboyantly and in bright, shocking colours; in his time, a Landsknecht was seriously punk rock!
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush Brown Sand (Vallejo) and Dark Sand (Vallejo), then dabs of PVA and static grass to taste.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Grey (Vallejo Spray Primer)
ARMY PAINTER: Moon Dust Brainmatter Beige Tanned Flesh Elemental Bolt
CITADEL: Wild Rider Red (Layer) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical) Cadian Fleshtone (Layer) Kislev Flesh (Layer) Nuln Oil (Shade)
VALLEJO: German Camo Medium Brown Cork Brown Leather Brown German Grey Beige Brown Sky Blue Ivory
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayWorkbench Wednesday 13th July - Westerns and WizardsSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-13 | Another video in which I sound off about Artizan figures! Their range really is amazing, and is responsible for me first taking an interest in the idea of fighting out the days of the Old West on the tabletop. I spotted their figures and thought, "What do I need to play with those?" A couple years later and here we are!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesBurnished Gold & Rich Blue: Elves of the Last Alliance the Easy Way [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-12 | Whether you're painting Elves for D&D, Pathfinder, ornate city guards or NPCs for just about any game you can imagine, or a handful of the Last Alliance to protect all Middle Earth from the depredations of a great evil... painting burnished golden armour and cloaks needn't be difficult.
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush heavily Golgfag Brown, then Tyrant Skull. Static grass and tufts to taste, paint base rim in Rhinox Hide or Dryad Bark.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Retributor Armour (Citadel Spray)
CITADEL: Retributor Armour (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Sigmarite (Dry) Necron Compound (Dry) Macragge Blue (Base) Celestra Grey (Base) The Fang (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Stormfang (Dry) Russ Grey (Layer) Calgar Blue (Layer) Ulthuan Grey (Layer) Dawnstone (Layer) Hoeth Blue (Layer) Fenrisian Grey (Layer) White Scar (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black Grey (or Citadel Corvus Black) Beige Brown Chrome (Vallejo Model Air Metallic)
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish Spray 'Ardcoat (Citadel Technical)Speed Painting Black Armour - Iron Hands Made Interesting! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-11 | Painting black doesn't have to be boring. Iron Hands are a perfect example of this, where keeping a deliberately tight, focused colour scheme with just a couple of extremely rich spot colours will keep them quick and easy to paint without looking too plain.
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrush heavily Orange Red (Vallejo) then Flat Flesh (Vallejo), or use Ryza Rust and Eldar Flesh. Paint rim in Rhinox Hide, add tufts to taste. While drybrushing the base, use the last of the 'dust' on your brush to flick over the legs and get them good and grimy!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Iron Hands Steel (Base) Necron Compound (Dry) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) White Scar (Layer) Talassar Blue (Contrast) Ironbreaker (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black (Vallejo Model Air Metallic)
GREEN STUFF WORLD: Light Rust
VARNISHES: Stormshield (Citadel Technical) Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayI dont like Mr. House one bit! Having Fun Painting New Vegas Yes Man [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-08 | The best time to experiment is when you're painting something you don't mind messing around with. Discovering new techniques, testing new colour combinations, or just holding your breath and painting freehand details on a screen... low-stakes painting for fun is where you can really enjoy some relaxing hobby time, with any result a win!
Securitrons feature in Fallout: Wasteland Warfare, and would as well work as allies or enemies in games like This is Not a Test, Fistful of Lead, Stargrave and others - kitschy Americana-themed robots have a long history of sci-fi madness, so wherever there's ray guns and mad scientists to be found, something like a Securitron will fit right in!
00:00 - Intro 00:54 - Painting Time 05:11 - Applying Shade 05:56 - Weathering 08:43 - Painting the Screen 13:35 - Yes, Man! All Finished!
THE BASE: Vallejo 'Brown Earth' Earth Texture, drybrushed Dark Sand. Paint base rim in Brown Sand and add a few stray bits of chopped-up tufts for scrubby undergrowth.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Iron Warriors (Base) Mechanicus Standard Grey (Base) Corax White (Base) The Fang (Base) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Mournfang Brown (Base) Jokaero Orange (Base) White Scar (Layer) Black Templar (Contrast) Stormhost Steel (Layer) Troll Slayer Orange (Layer) Fenrisian Grey (Layer) Skarsnik Green (Layer)
VALLEJO: Black Grey
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish Spray Ardcoat (Citadel)Workbench Wednesday 6th July - Finished Units and Neat Stuff to ComeSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-07-06 | All the links for stuff mentioned in today's video!
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesFlames of War Panzergrenadiers - Camo at 15mm Kept Simple! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-06-29 | Painting 15mm (or smaller!) miniatures always reminds me of something told to me about the difference in painting for display and painting for wargaming: "You're painting to be able to see what a miniature is armed with from a distance. The point of the paint is to aid target recognition."
Now, I'm not sure that's always necessarily true, but it's something worth considering when you look at how much contrast and shading you apply to your 15mm figures! Making them easier to see is no bad thing, especially when you're moving around large armies of miniatures in smart uniforms armed with different gear.
Thanks again to Battlefront for sponsoring this video with the plastic Panzergrenadier Platoon box!
00:00 - Intro 00:51 - A Couple Notes on Assembly 01:30 - Basecoats 08:46 - Shading 10:06 - Highlighting 14:08 - The Finished Base of Grenadiers
THE BASE: Vallejo Brown Earth 'Earth Texture' paste, drybrush Dark Sand. Add static grass and tufts to taste, paint base rim in Brown Sand.
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Grey (Vallejo Primer Spray)
VALLEJO: Red Leather Dark Sand German Field Grey Tan Earth German Camo Bright Green Khaki Cork Brown Refractive Green (70.890) German Uniform Beige Brown Mahogany Brown German Grey Stone Grey Beige Red Oily Steel
CITADEL: Retributor Armour (Base) Agrax Earthshade (Shade) Lahmian Medium (Technical)
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayA Wargamers Perspective: Why Would You Want a 3D Printer?Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-06-28 | I forgot another really big positive! No shipping, customs, or other delivery charges - and no wait times on downloading STLs to print!
Most of these bullet points could be entire videos in their own right, but to keep things short and sweet, here's an overview for the wargamer that might be on the fence or not considered a printer of their own. The short answer? No, of course you don't need one! Printing isn't going to kill injection moulded plastic or metal miniatures any more than the VHS killed cinema or home printers killed the publishing industry; the real value is in the options it offers, but there are plenty of those available commercially as well.
The in-depth thread where I break down individual costs, timing and expected longevity of certain materials: twitter.com/sonicsledge/status/1439681283374915585 It's worth mentioning that changing your FEP every three months probably isn't necessary, but it makes for easier estimating!
Thanks go to Elegoo for the Mars 3 appearing in the thumbnail - though it doesn't show up in the video, it's a wonderful machine that's been churning out many of the miniatures recently shown in the channel. This video isn't specifically sponsored by them, but they're my go to for resin and replacement parts.
00:00 - Intro 00:53 - The Good, Bad & Not Handsome 01:43 - Con #1: Resin is Toxic 03:42 - Con #2: Clean-Up Can Be a Drag 04:57 - Con #3: Printing is Its Own Hobby 06:37 - Pro #1: Oh Boy, Yes, It's Cheaper 09:40 - Pro #2: The Sheer Variety of Printed Miniatures 10:54 - So, Do You Want One?
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesCow Print Desert Pattern for British Vehicles - The Battle Cattle Marches! [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-06-24 | Whether you're painting Valentines, Shermans or Grizzly walkers for the Western Desert campaign or the early stages of the Italian campaign, the method is going to be much the same. Today's video is slightly longer than usual as I embark on a few little side notes and explanations of what I'm up to, but no matter what British and Commonwealth vehicles you're painting there's bound to be something useful here to follow along with.
Check out the Konflikt '47 range from Warlord Games here: https://store.warlordgames.com?aff=10
00:00 - Intro 00:55 - Assembly Notes - Making Life Easier 01:38 - Painting Time! 08:10 - A Little Alternate History Lesson 09:22 - Back to Painting! 15:03 - Weathering 20:08 - The Finished Grizzly Walker
THE BASE: Sand glued with PVA before priming. Cover primed sand with Brown Sand (Vallejo), shade with Seraphim Sepia (Citadel) or similar, then drybrush Dark Sand (Vallejo). Small spots of PVA to apply static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone (Army Painter)
CITADEL: Praxeti White (Dry) Corax White (Base) Longbeard Grey (Dry) Iron Hands Steel (Base) Aetherium Blue (Contrast)
VALLEJO: German Grey US Field Drab Black Brown Sand Dark Sand
ARMY PAINTER: Soft Tone Wash Dark Tone Wash Strong Tone Wash
VARNISHES: Vallejo Matt Varnish SprayWorkbench Wednesday 22nd June - Behind the Scenes on the Paint DeskSonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-06-22 | I haven't had the courage to assemble the Castigator mentioned last week! All those spangly Imperial bits... I'll work up the gumption to do it soon, I swear. Until then, here's a few prints and a couple of experiments I plan to fool around with, and an eye to the next few videos coming down the line.
What are you building or painting this week?
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Jimmy, and Rod - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links: patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer twitter.com/sonicsledge instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer ko-fi.com/docwholigan http://exit23.gamesScaling Up Simple Methods - Death Guard Terminator Speed Painting [How I Paint Things]Sonic Sledgehammer Studio2022-06-21 | Sometimes a question will crop up on videos where I paint Primaris Marines or Mk III Heresy stuff, "Will this work on a larger miniature?" Yes. Short of the tanks, the speed painting and simple techniques you've seen in previous videos will almost definitely work on larger or more ornate miniatures, and if they don't you can always strip them and try again!
Since Death Guard got the short end of the stick with a one minute video for painting their armour a while back, I figured it was worth reexamining how they'd look for painting Terminator armour - and not least since it's how I'll actually be painting my own Horus Heresy force. The real question now is whether or not I want to choose to play them as Loyalist or Traitor Death Guard!
00:00 - Intro 00:54 - A Couple Notes on Priming 01:55 - Painting Time! 14:10 - The Finished Terminator