Uploaded June 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 day ago
Think a 302 and a Boss 302 are basically the same engine? They're not — and the fastest way to tell them apart at a car show takes about five seconds and zero tools. In this one we walk the whole Ford small block family: the plain 302, the Boss 302, the 351 Windsor, the 351 Cleveland, and where the 400 fits in.
You'll learn the valve-cover-bolt trick for spotting a Boss, why a 351 Windsor won't share heads with a 302, and the part that surprises most folks: how a 351 Cleveland will bolt right into a Torino, Mustang, or Fairlane on the same engine mounts, bell housing, and 28-oz imbalance. We also get into the future plan for the Lizard — a 351 Cleveland and a small-block four-speed.
Did we get something wrong? Good. Light us up in the comments — we read every one. Thanks to Modern Driveline for coming aboard on the Ford small-block work.
It's Not Madness, It's FORD!
Follow the full build of The Lizard and the rest of the shop projects right here on Manic Mechanic.
Episode 336 Manic Mechanic
Merch:
👕 Shop the crew shirts, the ADHD shirt, and "Needs More Classic Cars"
autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com
Support:
🔧 Patreon ($10/mo): monthly Zoom meetings + trivia night
patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia
Sponsors:
autokrafters.com
moderndriveline.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia
#ford #FordSmallBlock #Boss302 #351Cleveland #ManicMechanic
Think a 302 and a Boss 302 are basically the same engine? They're not — and the fastest way to tell them apart at a car show takes about five seconds and zero tools. In this one we walk the whole Ford small block family: the plain 302, the Boss 302, the 351 Windsor, the 351 Cleveland, and where the 400 fits in.
You'll learn the valve-cover-bolt trick for spotting a Boss, why a 351 Windsor won't share heads with a 302, and the part that surprises most folks: how a 351 Cleveland will bolt right into a Torino, Mustang, or Fairlane on the same engine mounts, bell housing, and 28-oz imbalance. We also get into the future plan for the Lizard — a 351 Cleveland and a small-block four-speed.
Did we get something wrong? Good. Light us up in the comments — we read every one. Thanks to Modern Driveline for coming aboard on the Ford small-block work.
It's Not Madness, It's FORD!
Follow the full build of The Lizard and the rest of the shop projects right here on Manic Mechanic.
Episode 336 Manic Mechanic
Merch:
👕 Shop the crew shirts, the ADHD shirt, and "Needs More Classic Cars"
autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com
Support:
🔧 Patreon ($10/mo): monthly Zoom meetings + trivia night
patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia
Sponsors:
autokrafters.com
moderndriveline.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia
#ford #FordSmallBlock #Boss302 #351Cleveland #ManicMechanic







![No Welder, No Leaks: Panel Bonding an AMD Cowl on the 1970 Torino GT
The Lizard — our 1970 Torino GT — came to us with a rotted-out cowl, top and bottom. This is the car a good friend named and daily drove for years before it was parked, and the goal has always been to finish building his dream car the right way. So instead of burning new metal in and fighting heat warp and water leaks down the road, we bonded the new AMD upper and lower cowl panels in place with 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive.
Body man Larry walks us through the whole job start to finish: stripping the e-coat off the bonding surfaces with a surface conditioning disc so you clean the steel without thinning it, brushing the adhesives built-in corrosion inhibitors over every bit of bare metal, equalizing the cartridge so the ratio comes out right, and laying the bead with that 90-minute work clock ticking. From there its locating the panels, clamping it down — you cant over-clamp this stuff — and wiping the squeeze-out so the adhesive doubles as your seam sealer. No plug-weld heat, no distortion, and no leaks running down the cowl.
We also get into why a bonded cowl can end up stronger than a welded one, where youd still drop in a few spot welds if you had the access, and the honest call we made to leave them off this particular car.
Tools & materials in this video:
• 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive, applicator gun, mixing nozzles
• AMD upper and lower cowl panels
• 3M surface conditioning disc (Roloc-style) for e-coat removal
• Acid and chip brushes for spreading adhesive over bare metal
• Cleaner and prep solvent
• Clamps (bring the big ones for a 70 Torino) and a few box-tube spacers
• Basic hand tools and PPE
Want to support the shop? Grab a shirt, hat, or mug from our store, and check out our Patreon — the $10/month level gets you monthly Zoom hangouts and trivia night. [store link] [Patreon link]
Got a Fairlane, Torino, Ranchero, Falcon, or any 1960–1977 Ford passenger car with a rotted cowl? Drop your questions in the comments — we read every one.
Its Not Madness, Its FORD!
Follow the full build of The Lizard and the rest of the shop projects right here on Manic Mechanic.
Why We’re Using Panel Bonding Adhesive
https://youtu.be/70cOYh7g0HA
Parts:
Upper Cowl Part Number: D0OZ-6502010A
Lower Cowl Part Number: D0OZ-7602018
Merch:
https://autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/
Sponsors:
https://autokrafters.com/
https://www.moderndriveline.com/
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia
Episode 335 Manic Mechanic
#PanelBonding #3M8115 #FordTorino #ClassicFordRestoration #ManicMechanic No Welder, No Leaks: Panel Bonding an AMD Cowl on the 1970 Torino GT](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eQX5sX0UFE8/mqdefault.jpg)


