Uploaded August 2025 | Updated September 2026, 3 hours ago
Rust has a sneaky way of getting into everything.Flat tabletop? Easy...Scotch pad and a little WD-40.
But for anything round, delicate, or deeply etched...like a file...you need something smarter.
That’s where electrolysis comes in.
It uses electricity, washing soda, and water to reverse rust...pulling it off the metal without grinding away the surface.
I’ve seen this done with a giant tub, but we can scale it down. I’m using a small plastic mixing container from the paint aisle and a battery charger. For the anode...the part that takes the damage...you just need mild steel without zinc. I’m using an eye bolt, but first I burned the zinc off outdoors (don’t breathe the fumes), then drilled a hole near the top of my container to mount it.
Now add water. For every cup, mix in ¼ teaspoon of washing soda...not baking soda. Washing soda is alkaline and safe for this, and you can find it in the laundry aisle.
Hook your charger’s positive lead to the anode (our eye bolt) and the negative lead to the rusty part you want to save. Flip it on, and watch the bubbles form on your part...that’s how you know it’s working.
A couple of notes:
* Never use stainless steel anywhere in this setup. Why? Two words: Erin Brockovich. Look it up.
* Never add salt unless you want to relive the trenches of WWI.
* Make sure there is no open flames nearby.
* And don’t let the parts touch — unless you like sparks, dead chargers, and ruined workpieces.
It takes time, but a toothbrush or steel brush — again, no stainless — can help speed things up.When it’s done, dry your part well and protect it with WD-40 or Boeshield T-9.
Rust has a sneaky way of getting into everything.Flat tabletop? Easy...Scotch pad and a little WD-40.
But for anything round, delicate, or deeply etched...like a file...you need something smarter.
That’s where electrolysis comes in.
It uses electricity, washing soda, and water to reverse rust...pulling it off the metal without grinding away the surface.
I’ve seen this done with a giant tub, but we can scale it down. I’m using a small plastic mixing container from the paint aisle and a battery charger. For the anode...the part that takes the damage...you just need mild steel without zinc. I’m using an eye bolt, but first I burned the zinc off outdoors (don’t breathe the fumes), then drilled a hole near the top of my container to mount it.
Now add water. For every cup, mix in ¼ teaspoon of washing soda...not baking soda. Washing soda is alkaline and safe for this, and you can find it in the laundry aisle.
Hook your charger’s positive lead to the anode (our eye bolt) and the negative lead to the rusty part you want to save. Flip it on, and watch the bubbles form on your part...that’s how you know it’s working.
A couple of notes:
* Never use stainless steel anywhere in this setup. Why? Two words: Erin Brockovich. Look it up.
* Never add salt unless you want to relive the trenches of WWI.
* Make sure there is no open flames nearby.
* And don’t let the parts touch — unless you like sparks, dead chargers, and ruined workpieces.
It takes time, but a toothbrush or steel brush — again, no stainless — can help speed things up.When it’s done, dry your part well and protect it with WD-40 or Boeshield T-9.
