Uploaded January 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
The Army Painter and this channel actually have a pretty long history. Almost as soon as I had started out - before I even crossed 5000 subscribers - I was contacted by the team to ask, "Hey, do you want some paint?" They were one of the earliest to support the channel, and definitely the first company to do so, which I'd prefer to remind folks of and be totally up front about considering this is a review of a new product.
All the same, you've seen me use Army Painter products on the channel regularly. Primers, paints - shout-out to my favourite, Tanned Flesh! - mixes of their washes, and more besides. It's a range of products that I've happily used for years, but there's no denying some parts of the range have historically performed more consistently or simply better than others.
The *Warpaints Fanatic* range of newly formulated paints aims to address that, and I genuinely think it does a good job of it. The consistency issues and difficulty in mixing some of the paints are solved, and some of my old favourites from the Warpaints line have improved coverage as well. It's a solid upgrade, and I'm looking forward to adding a lot more of the new Fanatic range to my collection. Got my eye on Gunmetal in particular!
So thank you again to The Army Painter for hooking me up with a bunch of the new range to test and paint with for a while. I tried to sample a range of different colours and use cases before weighing in with my opinion, and I'm pretty happy with the end result. There are still a few colours either for matching or coverage that I prefer in other ranges - considering I have about eight different paint collections now, that's kinda expected - but the Fanatic range are going to be a reliable choice in anybody's paint rack when they hit general release.
00:00 - The Short Review: Yeah!
02:53 - Painting Time
11:14 - Better Bottles
12:33 - Highlights
14:18 - The Finished Miniature
14:50 - The Group Shot; Final Thoughts
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Necrotic Flesh (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Army Green
Ancient Stone
Leather Brown
Oak Brown
Deep Grey
Matt Black
Matt White
Plate Mail Metal
Necrotic Flesh
Strong Skin Shade
VALLEJO:
Silvery Grey
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
The Army Painter and this channel actually have a pretty long history. Almost as soon as I had started out - before I even crossed 5000 subscribers - I was contacted by the team to ask, "Hey, do you want some paint?" They were one of the earliest to support the channel, and definitely the first company to do so, which I'd prefer to remind folks of and be totally up front about considering this is a review of a new product.
All the same, you've seen me use Army Painter products on the channel regularly. Primers, paints - shout-out to my favourite, Tanned Flesh! - mixes of their washes, and more besides. It's a range of products that I've happily used for years, but there's no denying some parts of the range have historically performed more consistently or simply better than others.
The *Warpaints Fanatic* range of newly formulated paints aims to address that, and I genuinely think it does a good job of it. The consistency issues and difficulty in mixing some of the paints are solved, and some of my old favourites from the Warpaints line have improved coverage as well. It's a solid upgrade, and I'm looking forward to adding a lot more of the new Fanatic range to my collection. Got my eye on Gunmetal in particular!
So thank you again to The Army Painter for hooking me up with a bunch of the new range to test and paint with for a while. I tried to sample a range of different colours and use cases before weighing in with my opinion, and I'm pretty happy with the end result. There are still a few colours either for matching or coverage that I prefer in other ranges - considering I have about eight different paint collections now, that's kinda expected - but the Fanatic range are going to be a reliable choice in anybody's paint rack when they hit general release.
00:00 - The Short Review: Yeah!
02:53 - Painting Time
11:14 - Better Bottles
12:33 - Highlights
14:18 - The Finished Miniature
14:50 - The Group Shot; Final Thoughts
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Necrotic Flesh (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Army Green
Ancient Stone
Leather Brown
Oak Brown
Deep Grey
Matt Black
Matt White
Plate Mail Metal
Necrotic Flesh
Strong Skin Shade
VALLEJO:
Silvery Grey
VARNISH:
Instar Varnish+
![Painting Orc Cavalry - Wargs from Shattered Plains Kickstarter [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/O0WePKgDMYs/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Orc Cavalry - Wargs from Shattered Plains Kickstarter [How I Paint Things]
Its not often I get a chance to paint something fantasy-related that doesnt involve buying a huge box of miniatures where I only need one, rather than a whole army... but a 3D printer opens up a whole realm of possibilities!
The Quartermaster3D ranges of LotR-inspired miniatures are always a real treat; theyre clearly inspired by, but not slavish recreations of the heroes and villains weve seen on screen, and sometimes take more from lines of description in the books. Either way, theyre cool as hell, and painting wargs is way more fun than it should be - drybrushing is king!
Kickstarter link: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/qm3d/the-battle-of-the-shattered-plains-orcs-vs-men
Quartermaster3D Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064033445197
00:00 - Intro
01:17 - Priming Notes
02:08 - Basecoats
12:27 - Shading
13:33 - Highlights
17:18 - The Finished Rider
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison and Woodcock - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed with Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Paint the base rim in Rhinox Hide, add tufts to taste. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Zandri Dust (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
XV-88 (Base)
Mournfang Brown (Base)
Tyrant Skull (Dry)
Screaming Skull (Layer)
Flash Gitz Yellow (Layer)
Word Bearers Red (Layer)
Pink Horror (Layer)
Eshin Grey (Layer)
Death Guard Green (Base)
Khorne Red (Base)
Rakarth Flesh (Base)
Iron Warriors (Base)
Morghast Bone (Base)
Leadbelcher (Base)
Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
Lahmian Medium (Technical)
Nurgling Green (Layer)
Wazzdakka Red (Layer)
Skavenblight Dinge (Layer)
Skrag Brown (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black Grey
Steel (Model Air)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![No More Mixing: German Grenadiers with Vallejo Xpress [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OMCQo38Y16c/mqdefault.jpg "No More Mixing: German Grenadiers with Vallejo Xpress [How I Paint Things]
When Citadels Contrast came out, I spent a couple of weeks tweaking, testing, and adjusting the ratios on a bottled mix of three different colours to get Contrast Feldgrau. It looks pretty good, but its definitely a lot more tweaking and fuss than Id prefer out of a one coat solution. Enter Vallejo Xpress Wave 2 releases - the colours I think we were all waiting for!
Are they the magic bullet? I guess that depends on how this all looks to your eye! But it certainly fits the bill for me!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming & Prep Basecoats
03:12 - Painting the Camo
05:39 - Painting Equipment & Uniform
08:35 - Highlights & Extra Touches
10:15 - The Finished Grenadier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Off-White
Bag of Bones (Xpress)
Armor Green (Xpress)
Willow Bark (Xpress)
Rotten Flesh (Xpress)
Wasteland Brown (Xpress)
Battledress Brown (Xpress)
Camouflage Brown (Xpress)
Landser Grey (Xpress)
Dark Gunmetal (Game Color)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Slaughter Red (Speedpaint)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Quick Review & Paint: Traitors Toll Villagers [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OXNqEZQhdKE/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Review & Paint: Traitors Toll Villagers [How I Paint Things]
Sometimes a mistake or two made along the way leads to an interesting experiment. Sometimes theyre just mistakes! But whether youre looking to put villagers on the table as quickly as possible or to make the most out of a limited palette of paints, a few simple basecoats and a drybrush will help accentuate the detail on miniatures whore going to take a back seat compared to the starring roles of your Guards, Heroes, or What-Have-Yous.
Check out the entire Wargames Atlantic range at their website here: https://wargamesatlantic.com?ref=sonicsledge Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Looking at the Kit
03:29 - Priming Notes
04:17 - Basecoats
11:13 - Drybrushing
12:55 - Shading
14:44 - Thinning Highlights & Fixing Mistakes
17:24 - The Finished Villagers
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Alpha Blue (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
VARNISH:
Army Painter Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily drybrushed with Vallejo Stone Grey with a little touch of Vallejo Pale Green Grey on the larger clumps of texture. Tiny dots of PVA and static grass to add texture.")
![A Little Personal Hobby Time - Ronin [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OZWch1Iq8Mc/mqdefault.jpg "A Little Personal Hobby Time - Ronin [How I Paint Things]
Surprising nobody, Shōgun has landed in this house like a thunderbolt from a clear sky. I pretty much immediately started looking up printable STLs, plastic, and metal miniatures to sate a sudden new interest in samurai...
But beyond the well-connected samurai retainers to a daimyo were those samurai without masters, not always *technically* dishonoured, but second-class in the eyes of many nonetheless. Ronin would often travel wherever a blade was needed, making coin and living on the fringe of society wherever they could.
Check out the Kurosawa classic Yojimbo for a great piece of cinema, or Seven Samurai if youve a mind for something longer. Theyre classics for a reason!
00:00 - Intro
00:45 - Priming
01:06 - Painting Time!
12:11 - The Finished Ronin
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Add static grass and tufts to taste, paint the base rim in a mid-brown; Ive used Vallejo Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Wraithbone (Citadel Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Peachy Flesh (Speedpaint)
Bony Matter (Speedpaint)
Tidal Wave (Speedpaint)
Speedpaint Medium
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Ghillie Dew (Speedpaint)
Platemail Metal (Fanatic)
Strong Tone
Dark Tone
Military Shader
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Stormvermin Fur (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Basic Skin Tone (Model Color)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)
Stormshield (Citadel Technical)")
![Painting Napoleonic Bavarians - 1806-1813 in Style! [How I Paint Things Redux]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OoyJ0J-K9GA/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Napoleonic Bavarians - 1806-1813 in Style! [How I Paint Things Redux]
Bavaria was an absolutely vital ally to French interests during the Napoleonic period. Instrumental in victories at Wagram and Austerlitz, and a useful buffer for Napoleon against Austrian aggression on his eastern borders, Bavarias army would be absolutely savaged during the disastrous invasion of Russia, losing almost 30,000 men as part of that ill-fated campaign. As a result, Bavarian commitment to the French cause faltered... and theyd break entirely with France, switching sides just eight days before the Battle of Leipzig.
Piano Wargames incredible range of French, Austrian, and a whole host of German nations can be found on their main site: https://pianowargames.de/
Find the book mentioned at the start of the video here: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Bavarian-Army-1806-1813-Peter-Bunde/dp/3938447990
00:00 - Intro
00:59 - Book Suggestion
02:20 - Basecoats
11:58 - Shading
13:37 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
17:05 - The Finished Bavarians
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
CITADEL:
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Imperial Fist (Contrast)
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Gore-Grunta Fur (Contrast)
Basilicanum Grey (Contrast)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Cygor Brown (Contrast)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Imperial Navy (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Regal Blue (Fanatic)
Ice Yellow (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Vallejo Brown Sand, then lightly drybrushed with Stone Grey before a very, very light final drybrush of Green Grey (971 - the light one). Add a few tiny dots of PVA and some static grass for a scrubby, mountainous finish.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!
Army Painter Marine Juice/Sonic Tonic:
Equal parts of Speedpaint Medium, Dark Tone, and Warm Skin Shade. Mix well and apply liberally!")
![History That Wasnt: Great War Confederates from Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PAycvzj0IiE/mqdefault.jpg "History That Wasnt: Great War Confederates from Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]
One of the great and enduring What If? moments in history is the fate of the Confederate States of America. Theres dozens of knife-edge decisive moments, and though its widely agreed that the Confederacy was almost certainly doomed from its inception... well, what if? Wargaming lets us explore some of the weird possibilities and unlikely outcomes of history without anybody having had to have lived through it - but wanting to extrapolate likely outcomes encourages one to delve more deeply into the very real history of the period in question.
Confederate forces would fit right in with games like Gloom Trench, A War Transformed, Forbidden Psalm, or something like SLUDGE - or even Bolt Action! Theres plenty of ways to tweak and adjust rules sets to fit what youre doing, or simply using Confederate-themed miniatures with extant rules for a particular nation that fits them most closely works just as well.
The face painting guide mentioned (you can skip to the good bits, theres timestamps!): https://youtu.be/TKP_9NXQi_4
The three STL packs used in creating this guy are listed below.
Heads from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-death-fields-rebel-yell-270834
Body and pack from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-what-if-ww1-confederates-345305
Arms and weaponry from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ww2-chinese-infantry-322506
Of course, theres nothing stopping you from taking a box of plastic WWI German troops and painting them up in this same method, if you take the supplied by and modeled after the German Imperial Army to its logical extreme; itd be a bit cheaper, and far easier if you dont have a 3D printer at home!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - What If? Storytelling With the Miniature
04:08 - Painting: Basecoats
10:02 - Painting: Shading
11:06 - Painting: Highlights
12:49 - Varnishing & Finishing Touches
14:21 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Add static grass and tufts to taste, paint the base rim in a mid-brown; Ive used Vallejo Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Strong Tone
Speedpaint Medium
VALLEJO:
Stone Grey
Light Sea Grey
Cork Brown
Beige Brown
German Grey
Chocolate Brown
Ivory
CITADEL:
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q2bj3ygxaJ0/mqdefault.jpg "Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]
How can you use the Dip on a vehicle? You cant dip it! Well, same as a wash doesnt literally clean a miniature... sometimes a name is just a name. I cant count the number of times Ive been told Im using the Quickshade Dip incorrectly because Im not literally dipping miniatures - the Army Painter even suggests what they call the splash-on method themselves!
The secret is in a broad, flat-edged brush for those large panels where you want as few brush strokes as possible to show. For once, Id suggest a relatively cheap, store-bought synthetic brush - something you dont mind eventually being demolished by the Dip.
For comparisons sake, heres that classic Rhino painting guide: https://youtu.be/GfS0pe8Sy-o This uses acrylic washes rather than the Dip, but some of the principles are the same and it might give you some more ideas!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming and Painting Notes
02:41 - Preparing the Dip
03:07 - Applying the Dip
06:46 - After Curing
07:12 - Post Varnish!
07:49 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - I Saw the Plasma Glow
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter)
ARMY PAINTER:
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Polished Silver (Speedpaint Marker)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Rust (Effect)
Rust Tone (Wash)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Satin Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Oak Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Burning Ore with a little touch of Dorado Skin on the larger clumps of texture. Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.")
![Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q7E9SfEeXl4/mqdefault.jpg "Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]
There have actually been two formations known as the British Army of the Rhine. The first was an occupation force following the end of the Great War, though the second tends to be what people first think of: British forces attached to NATOs Northern Army Group to defend West Germany from potential Soviet invasion. Of course, these miniatures would work for just about any conflict or peacekeeping mission through the latter half of the 20th Century, and it never hurts to practice painting camo!
Check out the Lionheart: Cold War British STLs Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flankmarch/lionheart-cold-war-british-stls Already funded and ploughing through stretch goals!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - A Few Interesting Numbers...
03:38 - On to Painting! Priming Notes.
04:40 - Painting DPM
08:01 - Remaining Basecoats
10:02 - Shading Wash
11:27 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:30 - The Finished Infantryman
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Deathguard Green (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Underhive Ash (Dry)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Skeleton Bone
Leather Brown
Tanned Flesh
Strong Skin Shade
Speedpaint Medium
VALLEJO:
German Grey
Refractive Green
Khaki
Stone Grey
Black
Ivory
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QHOolToLZik/mqdefault.jpg "Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]
Though not all Plague Marines in 40k are necessarily Death Guard, owing to Nurgles rather generous gifts... theyre a striking majority of the Lord of Decays forces in the 41st Millennium.
00:00 - Intro
01:05 - Priming Notes
01:51 - Basecoats
12:09 - Shading
13:57 - Painting the Green Smoke
16:07 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
19:31 - The Finished Death Guard
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Angelic Red (Fanatic)
Moldy Wine (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Heavy Metal (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Emperor Gold (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Prairie Ochre (Fanatic)
Greedy Gold (Fanatic)
Grimdark Shadow (Fanatic Wash - John Blanche)
Speedpaint Medium
Forest Sprite (Speedpaint)
Absolution Green (Speedpaint)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Castellan Green (Base)
Death Guard Green (Base)
Corax White (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Colour Forge)
THE BASE: Apply a layer of GW Stirland Mud then heavily drybrush with GW Ryza Rust, and lightly with GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and done!")
![Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QSojBNg93Ho/mqdefault.jpg "Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]
The Deutsches Afrika Korps was the German expeditionary force in North Africa from early 1941 to mid 1943. Originally sent to bolster Italian defences of its colonies, the DAK would do battle against all the Allied nations that took part in the famed desert campaigns of the broadly defined mid-war period of WWII.
Kradschützen were in essence the armed recce elements of Panzer divisions, but were more than capable of fighting on foot as infantry forces when the need arose. Capable of moving rapidly to pressure points along the line, their mobility made them dangerous opponents wherever the Allies would meet them in battle.
The Over There - Part 2 Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/w3-wargames/over-there-part-2
Licensed printer for Matt Webb in the UK: https://mdminis.co.uk/
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming Notes & Some History!
03:12 - Basecoats
14:10 - Shading
15:55 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
21:34 - The Finished Bike
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
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PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Desert Yellow (Vallejo Spray)
VALLEJO:
Green Ochre
Desert Yellow
Green Yellow (881)
Middlestone
Dark Sand
Medium Grey
German Camo Med. Brown
Tan Earth
Iraqi Sand
Mahogany Brown
Flat Brown
German Grey
Ivory
Azure
ARMY PAINTER:
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Ruddy Umber (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
Soft Tone (Fanatic)
Speedpaint Medium
Buffed Hide (Fanatic)
Tourmaline Skin (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Reikland Fleshshade (Wash)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish (Army Painter Spray)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of PVA glue, then sprinkle on a suitably rocky sand mixture - Ive used Army Coarse from War World Scenics. With much thinner PVA, go over the top of this to seal it to the base. Once dry, paint in Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily overbrush with Vallejo Desert Yellow, finally drybrushing Vallejo Dark Sand. Add small dots of PVA with static grass to taste, along with a couple of tufts to add variation in height.")
