![No More Mixing: German Grenadiers with Vallejo Xpress [How I Paint Things] @SonicSledgehammerStudio](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OMCQo38Y16c/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded April 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
When Citadel's Contrast came out, I spent a couple of weeks tweaking, testing, and adjusting the ratios on a bottled mix of three different colours to get 'Contrast Feldgrau.' It looks pretty good, but it's definitely a lot more tweaking and fuss than I'd prefer out of a 'one coat' solution. Enter Vallejo Xpress' Wave 2 releases - the colours I think we were all waiting for!
Are they the magic bullet? I guess that depends on how this all looks to your eye! But it certainly fits the bill for me!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming & Prep Basecoats
03:12 - Painting the Camo
05:39 - Painting Equipment & Uniform
08:35 - Highlights & Extra Touches
10:15 - The Finished Grenadier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Off-White
Bag of Bones (Xpress)
Armor Green (Xpress)
Willow Bark (Xpress)
Rotten Flesh (Xpress)
Wasteland Brown (Xpress)
Battledress Brown (Xpress)
Camouflage Brown (Xpress)
Landser Grey (Xpress)
Dark Gunmetal (Game Color)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Slaughter Red (Speedpaint)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)
When Citadel's Contrast came out, I spent a couple of weeks tweaking, testing, and adjusting the ratios on a bottled mix of three different colours to get 'Contrast Feldgrau.' It looks pretty good, but it's definitely a lot more tweaking and fuss than I'd prefer out of a 'one coat' solution. Enter Vallejo Xpress' Wave 2 releases - the colours I think we were all waiting for!
Are they the magic bullet? I guess that depends on how this all looks to your eye! But it certainly fits the bill for me!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming & Prep Basecoats
03:12 - Painting the Camo
05:39 - Painting Equipment & Uniform
08:35 - Highlights & Extra Touches
10:15 - The Finished Grenadier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
twitter.com/sonicsledge
instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Off-White
Bag of Bones (Xpress)
Armor Green (Xpress)
Willow Bark (Xpress)
Rotten Flesh (Xpress)
Wasteland Brown (Xpress)
Battledress Brown (Xpress)
Camouflage Brown (Xpress)
Landser Grey (Xpress)
Dark Gunmetal (Game Color)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Slaughter Red (Speedpaint)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)
![No More Mixing: German Grenadiers with Vallejo Xpress [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OMCQo38Y16c/mqdefault.jpg "No More Mixing: German Grenadiers with Vallejo Xpress [How I Paint Things]
When Citadels Contrast came out, I spent a couple of weeks tweaking, testing, and adjusting the ratios on a bottled mix of three different colours to get Contrast Feldgrau. It looks pretty good, but its definitely a lot more tweaking and fuss than Id prefer out of a one coat solution. Enter Vallejo Xpress Wave 2 releases - the colours I think we were all waiting for!
Are they the magic bullet? I guess that depends on how this all looks to your eye! But it certainly fits the bill for me!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming & Prep Basecoats
03:12 - Painting the Camo
05:39 - Painting Equipment & Uniform
08:35 - Highlights & Extra Touches
10:15 - The Finished Grenadier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Off-White
Bag of Bones (Xpress)
Armor Green (Xpress)
Willow Bark (Xpress)
Rotten Flesh (Xpress)
Wasteland Brown (Xpress)
Battledress Brown (Xpress)
Camouflage Brown (Xpress)
Landser Grey (Xpress)
Dark Gunmetal (Game Color)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Guilliman Flesh (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Slaughter Red (Speedpaint)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Quick Review & Paint: Traitors Toll Villagers [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OXNqEZQhdKE/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Review & Paint: Traitors Toll Villagers [How I Paint Things]
Sometimes a mistake or two made along the way leads to an interesting experiment. Sometimes theyre just mistakes! But whether youre looking to put villagers on the table as quickly as possible or to make the most out of a limited palette of paints, a few simple basecoats and a drybrush will help accentuate the detail on miniatures whore going to take a back seat compared to the starring roles of your Guards, Heroes, or What-Have-Yous.
Check out the entire Wargames Atlantic range at their website here: https://wargamesatlantic.com?ref=sonicsledge Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Looking at the Kit
03:29 - Priming Notes
04:17 - Basecoats
11:13 - Drybrushing
12:55 - Shading
14:44 - Thinning Highlights & Fixing Mistakes
17:24 - The Finished Villagers
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Skeleton Bone, Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Agate Skin (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Alpha Blue (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Bootstrap Brown (Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Wasteland Clay (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
VARNISH:
Army Painter Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily drybrushed with Vallejo Stone Grey with a little touch of Vallejo Pale Green Grey on the larger clumps of texture. Tiny dots of PVA and static grass to add texture.")
![A Little Personal Hobby Time - Ronin [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OZWch1Iq8Mc/mqdefault.jpg "A Little Personal Hobby Time - Ronin [How I Paint Things]
Surprising nobody, Shōgun has landed in this house like a thunderbolt from a clear sky. I pretty much immediately started looking up printable STLs, plastic, and metal miniatures to sate a sudden new interest in samurai...
But beyond the well-connected samurai retainers to a daimyo were those samurai without masters, not always *technically* dishonoured, but second-class in the eyes of many nonetheless. Ronin would often travel wherever a blade was needed, making coin and living on the fringe of society wherever they could.
Check out the Kurosawa classic Yojimbo for a great piece of cinema, or Seven Samurai if youve a mind for something longer. Theyre classics for a reason!
00:00 - Intro
00:45 - Priming
01:06 - Painting Time!
12:11 - The Finished Ronin
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Add static grass and tufts to taste, paint the base rim in a mid-brown; Ive used Vallejo Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Wraithbone (Citadel Primer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Peachy Flesh (Speedpaint)
Bony Matter (Speedpaint)
Tidal Wave (Speedpaint)
Speedpaint Medium
Grim Black (Speedpaint)
Ghillie Dew (Speedpaint)
Platemail Metal (Fanatic)
Strong Tone
Dark Tone
Military Shader
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
CITADEL:
Wraithbone (Base)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Black Legion (Contrast)
Stormvermin Fur (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Basic Skin Tone (Model Color)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)
Stormshield (Citadel Technical)")
![Painting Napoleonic Bavarians - 1806-1813 in Style! [How I Paint Things Redux]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OoyJ0J-K9GA/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Napoleonic Bavarians - 1806-1813 in Style! [How I Paint Things Redux]
Bavaria was an absolutely vital ally to French interests during the Napoleonic period. Instrumental in victories at Wagram and Austerlitz, and a useful buffer for Napoleon against Austrian aggression on his eastern borders, Bavarias army would be absolutely savaged during the disastrous invasion of Russia, losing almost 30,000 men as part of that ill-fated campaign. As a result, Bavarian commitment to the French cause faltered... and theyd break entirely with France, switching sides just eight days before the Battle of Leipzig.
Piano Wargames incredible range of French, Austrian, and a whole host of German nations can be found on their main site: https://pianowargames.de/
Find the book mentioned at the start of the video here: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Bavarian-Army-1806-1813-Peter-Bunde/dp/3938447990
00:00 - Intro
00:59 - Book Suggestion
02:20 - Basecoats
11:58 - Shading
13:37 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
17:05 - The Finished Bavarians
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Matt White (Army Painter Spray)
CITADEL:
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Imperial Fist (Contrast)
Blood Angels Red (Contrast)
Gore-Grunta Fur (Contrast)
Basilicanum Grey (Contrast)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Cygor Brown (Contrast)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
Flayed One Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Imperial Navy (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Regal Blue (Fanatic)
Ice Yellow (Fanatic)
Pure Red (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Vallejo Brown Sand, then lightly drybrushed with Stone Grey before a very, very light final drybrush of Green Grey (971 - the light one). Add a few tiny dots of PVA and some static grass for a scrubby, mountainous finish.
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!
Army Painter Marine Juice/Sonic Tonic:
Equal parts of Speedpaint Medium, Dark Tone, and Warm Skin Shade. Mix well and apply liberally!")
![History That Wasnt: Great War Confederates from Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PAycvzj0IiE/mqdefault.jpg "History That Wasnt: Great War Confederates from Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]
One of the great and enduring What If? moments in history is the fate of the Confederate States of America. Theres dozens of knife-edge decisive moments, and though its widely agreed that the Confederacy was almost certainly doomed from its inception... well, what if? Wargaming lets us explore some of the weird possibilities and unlikely outcomes of history without anybody having had to have lived through it - but wanting to extrapolate likely outcomes encourages one to delve more deeply into the very real history of the period in question.
Confederate forces would fit right in with games like Gloom Trench, A War Transformed, Forbidden Psalm, or something like SLUDGE - or even Bolt Action! Theres plenty of ways to tweak and adjust rules sets to fit what youre doing, or simply using Confederate-themed miniatures with extant rules for a particular nation that fits them most closely works just as well.
The face painting guide mentioned (you can skip to the good bits, theres timestamps!): https://youtu.be/TKP_9NXQi_4
The three STL packs used in creating this guy are listed below.
Heads from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-death-fields-rebel-yell-270834
Body and pack from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-what-if-ww1-confederates-345305
Arms and weaponry from: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ww2-chinese-infantry-322506
Of course, theres nothing stopping you from taking a box of plastic WWI German troops and painting them up in this same method, if you take the supplied by and modeled after the German Imperial Army to its logical extreme; itd be a bit cheaper, and far easier if you dont have a 3D printer at home!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - What If? Storytelling With the Miniature
04:08 - Painting: Basecoats
10:02 - Painting: Shading
11:06 - Painting: Highlights
12:49 - Varnishing & Finishing Touches
14:21 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: Stirland Mud, drybrushed Golgfag Brown and then Tyrant Skull. Add static grass and tufts to taste, paint the base rim in a mid-brown; Ive used Vallejo Flat Brown. Done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Premium Grey (Vallejo Spray Can)
ARMY PAINTER:
Tanned Flesh
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Strong Tone
Speedpaint Medium
VALLEJO:
Stone Grey
Light Sea Grey
Cork Brown
Beige Brown
German Grey
Chocolate Brown
Ivory
CITADEL:
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q2bj3ygxaJ0/mqdefault.jpg "Painting the Saturnine Dreadnought with Quickshade Dip - 30k in 30 Days [How I Paint Things]
How can you use the Dip on a vehicle? You cant dip it! Well, same as a wash doesnt literally clean a miniature... sometimes a name is just a name. I cant count the number of times Ive been told Im using the Quickshade Dip incorrectly because Im not literally dipping miniatures - the Army Painter even suggests what they call the splash-on method themselves!
The secret is in a broad, flat-edged brush for those large panels where you want as few brush strokes as possible to show. For once, Id suggest a relatively cheap, store-bought synthetic brush - something you dont mind eventually being demolished by the Dip.
For comparisons sake, heres that classic Rhino painting guide: https://youtu.be/GfS0pe8Sy-o This uses acrylic washes rather than the Dip, but some of the principles are the same and it might give you some more ideas!
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming and Painting Notes
02:41 - Preparing the Dip
03:07 - Applying the Dip
06:46 - After Curing
07:12 - Post Varnish!
07:49 - Weathering & Finishing Touches
13:25 - I Saw the Plasma Glow
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, and Chris - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black, Brainmatter Beige (Army Painter)
ARMY PAINTER:
Hoplite Gold (Speedpaint)
Broadsword Silver (Speedpaint)
Polished Silver (Speedpaint Marker)
Camouflage Green (Fanatic)
Matt Black (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Dark Rust (Effect)
Rust Tone (Wash)
VARNISH:
Army Painter Satin Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with thinned down Oak Brown, then heavily drybrushed with Burning Ore with a little touch of Dorado Skin on the larger clumps of texture. Mountain Tufts from Army Painter to vary the height.")
![Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q7E9SfEeXl4/mqdefault.jpg "Painting DPM Camo - Cold War British Infantry [How I Paint Things]
There have actually been two formations known as the British Army of the Rhine. The first was an occupation force following the end of the Great War, though the second tends to be what people first think of: British forces attached to NATOs Northern Army Group to defend West Germany from potential Soviet invasion. Of course, these miniatures would work for just about any conflict or peacekeeping mission through the latter half of the 20th Century, and it never hurts to practice painting camo!
Check out the Lionheart: Cold War British STLs Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flankmarch/lionheart-cold-war-british-stls Already funded and ploughing through stretch goals!
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - A Few Interesting Numbers...
03:38 - On to Painting! Priming Notes.
04:40 - Painting DPM
08:01 - Remaining Basecoats
10:02 - Shading Wash
11:27 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:30 - The Finished Infantryman
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Robison, Woodcock, David Kinney, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://twitter.com/sonicsledge
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/docwholigan
http://exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and sand, painted with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, then drybrushed Dark Sand. Dots of PVA again to add some static grass, and done!
PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Deathguard Green (Citadel Spray Can)
CITADEL:
Underhive Ash (Dry)
Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
Kislev Flesh (Layer)
ARMY PAINTER:
Skeleton Bone
Leather Brown
Tanned Flesh
Strong Skin Shade
Speedpaint Medium
VALLEJO:
German Grey
Refractive Green
Khaki
Stone Grey
Black
Ivory
VARNISHES:
Varnish+ (Instar)")
![Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QHOolToLZik/mqdefault.jpg "Plague Marines: Painting Death Guard for 40k [How I Paint Things]
Though not all Plague Marines in 40k are necessarily Death Guard, owing to Nurgles rather generous gifts... theyre a striking majority of the Lord of Decays forces in the 41st Millennium.
00:00 - Intro
01:05 - Priming Notes
01:51 - Basecoats
12:09 - Shading
13:57 - Painting the Green Smoke
16:07 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
19:31 - The Finished Death Guard
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Raven Black (Colour Forge Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Necrotic Flesh (Fanatic)
Angelic Red (Fanatic)
Moldy Wine (Fanatic)
Dusty Skull (Fanatic)
Wyvern Fury (Fanatic)
Heavy Metal (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Emperor Gold (Fanatic - John Blanche)
Prairie Ochre (Fanatic)
Greedy Gold (Fanatic)
Grimdark Shadow (Fanatic Wash - John Blanche)
Speedpaint Medium
Forest Sprite (Speedpaint)
Absolution Green (Speedpaint)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Maize Yellow (Speedpaint)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Castellan Green (Base)
Death Guard Green (Base)
Corax White (Base)
Liberator Gold (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Black
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Colour Forge)
THE BASE: Apply a layer of GW Stirland Mud then heavily drybrush with GW Ryza Rust, and lightly with GW Eldar Flesh. Add tufts to taste and done!")
![Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QSojBNg93Ho/mqdefault.jpg "Deutsches Afrika Korps - Painting Kradschützen Bikes [How I Paint Things]
The Deutsches Afrika Korps was the German expeditionary force in North Africa from early 1941 to mid 1943. Originally sent to bolster Italian defences of its colonies, the DAK would do battle against all the Allied nations that took part in the famed desert campaigns of the broadly defined mid-war period of WWII.
Kradschützen were in essence the armed recce elements of Panzer divisions, but were more than capable of fighting on foot as infantry forces when the need arose. Capable of moving rapidly to pressure points along the line, their mobility made them dangerous opponents wherever the Allies would meet them in battle.
The Over There - Part 2 Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/w3-wargames/over-there-part-2
Licensed printer for Matt Webb in the UK: https://mdminis.co.uk/
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - Priming Notes & Some History!
03:12 - Basecoats
14:10 - Shading
15:55 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
21:34 - The Finished Bike
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: Desert Yellow (Vallejo Spray)
VALLEJO:
Green Ochre
Desert Yellow
Green Yellow (881)
Middlestone
Dark Sand
Medium Grey
German Camo Med. Brown
Tan Earth
Iraqi Sand
Mahogany Brown
Flat Brown
German Grey
Ivory
Azure
ARMY PAINTER:
Gun Metal (Fanatic)
Ruddy Umber (Fanatic)
Strong Tone (Fanatic)
Soft Tone (Fanatic)
Speedpaint Medium
Buffed Hide (Fanatic)
Tourmaline Skin (Fanatic)
CITADEL:
Reikland Fleshshade (Wash)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish (Army Painter Spray)
THE BASE: Apply a thick layer of PVA glue, then sprinkle on a suitably rocky sand mixture - Ive used Army Coarse from War World Scenics. With much thinner PVA, go over the top of this to seal it to the base. Once dry, paint in Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily overbrush with Vallejo Desert Yellow, finally drybrushing Vallejo Dark Sand. Add small dots of PVA with static grass to taste, along with a couple of tufts to add variation in height.")
![Painting Great War German Empire Troops - Simple, Quick Methods [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QXMrXg743d8/mqdefault.jpg "Painting Great War German Empire Troops - Simple, Quick Methods [How I Paint Things]
The alterations introduced by the Kaiser in late 1915 would massively simplify the cut and production of German Empire uniforms throughout the rest of the war - just as well, as Germany was already running short on even the materials to make buttons. Luckily, painting them for the tabletop is a much simpler matter than provisioning the Imperial German Army!
Check out the (absolutely enormous) Wargames Atlantic range through the following affiliate link, and I net a wee commission off any purchases at no extra cost to you! https://wargamesatlantic.com?ref=sonicsledge
Find more information for the details and colours used on the bayonet knots mentioned in the video here: http://www.germancolonialuniforms.co.uk/militaria/bayonet%20knots.htm
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Quick Miniature Notes
01:32 - Priming Notes
02:06 - Basecoats
09:37 - Shading
11:06 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
13:59 - The Finished Soldier
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, and Matt Dischner - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Ash Grey (Army Painter Spray Primer)
VALLEJO:
German Field Grey WWII
Stone Grey
Flat Brown
German Camo Pale Brown
German Grey
Beige Brown
ARMY PAINTER:
Jasper Skin (Fanatic)
Ash Grey (Fanatic)
Tree Ancient (Fanatic)
Command Khaki (Fanatic)
Barren Dune (Fanatic)
Matt White (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Varnish+ (Instar)
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Flat Brown, heavily overbrushed Brown Sand, lightly drybrushed Dark Sand. Add dots of PVA and static grass, then tufts of your choice - these orange meadow tufts came from Green Stuff World. While drybrushing the base, once most of the paint is rubbed off your brush, lightly stipple at legs and greatcoat to add a bit of dust to the uniform.
Marine Juice MkIV/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Dark Tone (Army Painter Wash)
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade (Citadel Shade)
4 parts Lahmian Medium (Citadel Technical)
...or just mix a bottle of each together and done!")
![Quick Review & Paint: Classic Fantasy Guards - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/R5rQGSCz0Xs/mqdefault.jpg "Quick Review & Paint: Classic Fantasy Guards - Wargames Atlantic [How I Paint Things]
It turns out that paintings like a lot of skills - if you dont use it, it rusts a little! The methods are still all totally valid, though I discovered after a month (actually closer to five weeks) of not having painted anything, I found certain colours moving off my brush differently to how I remembered, having to get fresh paint after having added too much water to a mix, and so forth. So if youre wondering whether or not practice is really all its cracked up to be, heck yeah, it is! Keep your eye in!
Find the Guards box itself (and a whole host of others!) at Wargames Atlantics site: https://wargamesatlantic.com/collections/classic-fantasy/products/guards
Check out Guards of Traitors Toll, coming soon from Grey for Now Games: https://greyfornow.com/en-eu/pages/guards-of-traitors-toll
00:00 - Intro
00:50 - A Brisk Review!
03:36 - Priming Notes
04:43 - Basecoats
14:07 - Shading/Wash
15:20 - Highlights
11:30 - Finishing Touches
14:27 - The Finished Guards
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, and Fred - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
PAINTS USED:
PRIMERS: Matt Black (Army Painter Spray)
ARMY PAINTER:
Banshee Brown (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Moonstone Skin (Fanatic)
Demigod Flames (Fanatic)
Dragon Red (Fanatic)
Temple Gate Teal (Fanatic)
Deep Grey (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Heavy Metal (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Blanched Berry (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Dryad Brown (Fanatic)
Ironclad Grey (John Blanche - Fanatic)
Oak Brown (Fanatic)
Leather Brown (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Strong Skin Shade (Wash)
Speedpaint Medium
Pure Red (Fanatic)
Daemonic Yellow (Fanatic)
Uniform Grey (Fanatic)
Pharoah Guard (Fanatic)
Fur Brown (Fanatic)
Mulled Berry (Fanatic)
Moldy Wine (Fanatic)
True Brass (Fanatic)
Barbarian Flesh (Fanatic)
VARNISH:
Colour Forge Matt Varnish Spray
THE BASE: Layer of PVA followed by sand, painted first with Vallejo Brown Sand, then heavily drybrushed with Vallejo Stone Grey with a little touch of Vallejo Pale Green Grey on the larger clumps of texture. Tiny dots of PVA and static grass to add texture.")
![Painting for Bolt Action: Imperial Japans Special Naval Landing Forces [How I Paint Things]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RS1Gi44f7zg/mqdefault.jpg "Painting for Bolt Action: Imperial Japans Special Naval Landing Forces [How I Paint Things]
The Army and Navy of Imperial Japan were very rarely in agreement with how anything about the war ought to be conducted. They squabbled over resources, often doubled up on efforts without realizing, and even when they tried to work together it was without adequate training or preparation for the task ahead. The Navy had long carried its own shipboard infantry - the Special Naval Landing Force - who would be the spearpoint of large scale military action. As an emergent naval power, where Japanese ships went, victory was sure to follow - it was the shore parties of the SNLF that were meant to seize and secure it on the ground.
Check out the entire Warlord Games range at their website here: https://r.warlordgames.com/aff/?SONICSLEDGEHAMMER Purchases made through this affiliate link net me a small commission at no cost to you!
00:00 - Intro
00:45 - Priming Notes
01:44 - Basecoats
08:45 - Shading
10:35 - Highlights & Finishing Touches
14:33 - The Finished Miniature
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Rod, Phil, Ben, Robison, David Kinney, Fred, Fool in a Hat, Chris, and Timothy Ferguson - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
https://www.patreon.com/sonicsledgehammer
https://bsky.app/profile/sonicsledgehammer.bsky.social
https://www.instagram.com/sonicsledgehammer/
https://ko-fi.com/sonicsledge
http://exit23.games
Backdrop by Jon Hodgson Backdrops - https://handiwork.games/product-category/everything/backdrop-books #jhbackdrops everywhere a hashtag works for more!
PAINTS USED
PRIMER: US Olive Drab (Vallejo Spray Can)
VALLEJO:
Khaki
Flat Flesh
Flat Brown
Beige Brown
Green Grey (971)
Green Brown
Deck Tan
ARMY PAINTER:
Woodland Camo (Fanatic)
Olive Drab (Fanatic)
Skeleton Bone (Fanatic)
Plate Mail Metal (Fanatic)
Paratrooper Tan (Fanatic)
Dorado Skin (Fanatic)
Ancient Stone (Fanatic)
Marine Juice MkIII/Sonic Tonic:
3 parts Reikland Fleshshade, 3 parts Army Painter Dark Tone, 4 parts Lahmian Medium - for simplicity, this is just a bottle of each. Mix well and apply liberally!")
