Uploaded August 2020 | Updated September 2026, 3 days ago
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
THIS EPISODE RUNDOWN: 0:05 - Cafe & Kuchen! 2:00 - Moving Training Cafe to Monday's at Noon EST (1600GMT), 3:00 - Kudos to Alex Megos! Comments on his FA of Bibliography, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. 5:00 - Thoughts about Adam Ondra and Alex Megos...and the potential to establish 5.16a/9c+ sometime in the next decade.
************** YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************
9:00 - Difference between supplementing protein with Whey versus vegan Powerplex versus Supercharged Collagen. physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen
11:00 - How long does a warm-up for climbing or training last? Must a re-warm-up before a second session of the day? 14:30 - How useful is a climbing journal or training diary? 19:25 - What can I do for sore rear deltoid muscles? Strong shoulders matter! 22:30 - When I do campus training, how many sets should I do in a session? 26:10 - How concerning is a swollen PIP (middle) finger joint? More about capsulitis. 28:50 - Does it take a lot of training to advance from 5.11 to 5.12? 33:35 - Should I do bicep curls for climbing? Learn why big biceps are not beneficial to climbers. 36:00 - Should I consume a bedtime protein shake? 38:40 - Concerns about finger pain and climbing. 42:50 - Is there value in regular strength testing of KPIs? Comments about Tom Randall and Lattice training & testing rung. 46:20 - How much protein is needed per dose? Can you consume too much protein? 48:00 - How can I train to become a more dynamic climber? 50:25 - Is 1.2 to 2.0 grams of protein per kg body per day a good amount? 51:40 - Question about pain under PIP joint. 53:10 - Is creatine a good supplement for climbers? 54:30 - How can I get past the fear of falling? 56:00 - How much should I train pocket grips on a hangboard versus crimp and open hand? 57:30 - Check out Eric's newest Training for Climbing podcast on iTunes, Spotify, or at TrainingForClimbing.com trainingforclimbing.com/podcast-51-tips-to-climb-your-best-outdoors
**************************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
THIS EPISODE RUNDOWN: 0:05 - Cafe & Kuchen! 2:00 - Moving Training Cafe to Monday's at Noon EST (1600GMT), 3:00 - Kudos to Alex Megos! Comments on his FA of Bibliography, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. 5:00 - Thoughts about Adam Ondra and Alex Megos...and the potential to establish 5.16a/9c+ sometime in the next decade.
************** YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************
9:00 - Difference between supplementing protein with Whey versus vegan Powerplex versus Supercharged Collagen. physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen
11:00 - How long does a warm-up for climbing or training last? Must a re-warm-up before a second session of the day? 14:30 - How useful is a climbing journal or training diary? 19:25 - What can I do for sore rear deltoid muscles? Strong shoulders matter! 22:30 - When I do campus training, how many sets should I do in a session? 26:10 - How concerning is a swollen PIP (middle) finger joint? More about capsulitis. 28:50 - Does it take a lot of training to advance from 5.11 to 5.12? 33:35 - Should I do bicep curls for climbing? Learn why big biceps are not beneficial to climbers. 36:00 - Should I consume a bedtime protein shake? 38:40 - Concerns about finger pain and climbing. 42:50 - Is there value in regular strength testing of KPIs? Comments about Tom Randall and Lattice training & testing rung. 46:20 - How much protein is needed per dose? Can you consume too much protein? 48:00 - How can I train to become a more dynamic climber? 50:25 - Is 1.2 to 2.0 grams of protein per kg body per day a good amount? 51:40 - Question about pain under PIP joint. 53:10 - Is creatine a good supplement for climbers? 54:30 - How can I get past the fear of falling? 56:00 - How much should I train pocket grips on a hangboard versus crimp and open hand? 57:30 - Check out Eric's newest Training for Climbing podcast on iTunes, Spotify, or at TrainingForClimbing.com trainingforclimbing.com/podcast-51-tips-to-climb-your-best-outdoors
**************************
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
