Uploaded March 2024 | Updated September 2026, 3 days ago
This was my second time climbing this route. Of all the climbs I’ve done in the Superstition Mountains this is my favorite.
Your approach path will end in a slippery, water cleaned gully at the base of a large chimney that is occluded by car sized boulders. The start of pitch 1 will be to the left of this chimney. Look for a single belay bolt below two bolts on the steeper wall. There is a nice ledge for the belayer just below the single belay bolt. P1: Thorin’s Pitch - Climb toward the steepening wall, using a nicely threaded alpine draw in a pass-through hole at the beginning of the climb as your first piece. Continue past the bolts, then place some ok gear below a steep, short bulge to a ledge 5.8. Continue on slightly easier ground, following the weakness and intermittent cracks past a final bolt then to a 2 bolt anchor 110 ft. P2: Gandalf’s Pitch - Pull past anchor and continue slightly right, toward bolt and into right facing corner. You will approach the base of a large, mushroom-shaped rock. At this point you have two options: You can ascend on the left side of its base past bolts and intermittent pro, then pull chossy bulge up through a cleft, clip and extend a high bolt and continue to anchor, 5.7+, loose. Alternative you can go straight up the right side on unprotected 5.5 (R) directly to the anchor on a large ledge, slightly to the right. The left option is much more enjoyable, but has a choss factor 105ft.
P3 Gollum’s Pitch - You are now standing at the base of the upper buttress. You will go angle slightly right past 2 bolts and pull over a small ledge I refer to as the “shit yer pants ledge”. Ask me some time I will tell you the story. Clip a bolt there then continue up, past bolts and pro. Enjoy the exposure as you look below you on this very aesthetic pitch to a 2 bolt anchor 100ft. P4: Thrush’s Pitch - Once you finish admiring the beautiful view, continue up obvious crack to chimney with roof. Clip bolt to right of roof and step right, then continue up crack, protected with intermittent gear and bolts to two bolt anchor, 110ft. P5: The Burglars Pitch - Continue up face above and right of anchor on gear, turning left and following easy crack to ledge. Continue up bolt line on exposed face to 2 bolt anchor on top, 80ft. Look for gold, you might find some. There is a rule though: If you take the last of the gold you must return to replenish the supply. Should you not return within the same season to renew the gold you will be cursed by the necromancer, who will haunt you to the end of your days……
Descent: Rap route with a single 70m. Tie knots in the ends because a couple pitches are close to half the rope.
Moon Rune traverse to the Great Hall: For a little added exploration you could, should you dare, venture into the great hall where the dragon slumbers. Walk further back from the top anchor and you will find a single bolt. You can use the bolt to do a short rappel to the grassy/rocky ledge and scramble up and left along the base of the wall and into the cave. The entrance of the cave will be partially visible from the top anchor.
Description taken from mountain project.
This was my second time climbing this route. Of all the climbs I’ve done in the Superstition Mountains this is my favorite.
Your approach path will end in a slippery, water cleaned gully at the base of a large chimney that is occluded by car sized boulders. The start of pitch 1 will be to the left of this chimney. Look for a single belay bolt below two bolts on the steeper wall. There is a nice ledge for the belayer just below the single belay bolt. P1: Thorin’s Pitch - Climb toward the steepening wall, using a nicely threaded alpine draw in a pass-through hole at the beginning of the climb as your first piece. Continue past the bolts, then place some ok gear below a steep, short bulge to a ledge 5.8. Continue on slightly easier ground, following the weakness and intermittent cracks past a final bolt then to a 2 bolt anchor 110 ft. P2: Gandalf’s Pitch - Pull past anchor and continue slightly right, toward bolt and into right facing corner. You will approach the base of a large, mushroom-shaped rock. At this point you have two options: You can ascend on the left side of its base past bolts and intermittent pro, then pull chossy bulge up through a cleft, clip and extend a high bolt and continue to anchor, 5.7+, loose. Alternative you can go straight up the right side on unprotected 5.5 (R) directly to the anchor on a large ledge, slightly to the right. The left option is much more enjoyable, but has a choss factor 105ft.
P3 Gollum’s Pitch - You are now standing at the base of the upper buttress. You will go angle slightly right past 2 bolts and pull over a small ledge I refer to as the “shit yer pants ledge”. Ask me some time I will tell you the story. Clip a bolt there then continue up, past bolts and pro. Enjoy the exposure as you look below you on this very aesthetic pitch to a 2 bolt anchor 100ft. P4: Thrush’s Pitch - Once you finish admiring the beautiful view, continue up obvious crack to chimney with roof. Clip bolt to right of roof and step right, then continue up crack, protected with intermittent gear and bolts to two bolt anchor, 110ft. P5: The Burglars Pitch - Continue up face above and right of anchor on gear, turning left and following easy crack to ledge. Continue up bolt line on exposed face to 2 bolt anchor on top, 80ft. Look for gold, you might find some. There is a rule though: If you take the last of the gold you must return to replenish the supply. Should you not return within the same season to renew the gold you will be cursed by the necromancer, who will haunt you to the end of your days……
Descent: Rap route with a single 70m. Tie knots in the ends because a couple pitches are close to half the rope.
Moon Rune traverse to the Great Hall: For a little added exploration you could, should you dare, venture into the great hall where the dragon slumbers. Walk further back from the top anchor and you will find a single bolt. You can use the bolt to do a short rappel to the grassy/rocky ledge and scramble up and left along the base of the wall and into the cave. The entrance of the cave will be partially visible from the top anchor.
Description taken from mountain project.
