Uploaded July 2020 | Updated September 2026, 5 hours ago
Lacquer is hard and glossy but it may be dented or chipped so you will want to avoid hard blows. You might not want to use lacquer if you are finishing say a child’s toy or step stool. Also try not to use water unless the furniture label recommends it. A lot of new furniture has a durable lacquer finish. Older lacquered pieces or imported items may have finishes affected by some solvents, so test products first on an inconspicuous place.
Cleaning lacquered furniture
Vacuum and/or dust with a soft, dry, cloth; do not use oiled or treated cloths on waxed finishes. Some finishes can be wiped with a damp cloth, followed at once by rubbing with a dry cloth, (test first in inconspicuous spot) to remove fingerprints and smudges. A solvent-based furniture cleaner can be used on most finishes (test first).
Special Cleaning
Use a solvent-base furniture cleaner. Apply with soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with soft cloth in other hand, doing only a small area at a time. An oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes but test first in an inconspicuous spot to be sure it is OK with finish.
Protect with liquid wax or polish to maintain gloss.
Resin Lacquer Protection:
3-M has introduced a "Scotchgard" wood protection which is synthetic resin looking much like a traditional lacquer finish. But it is claimed to resist stains, chips, scratches, heat; spots or rings from water- alcohol, and oil-based liquids, and damage from solvent- based products such as nail polish and polish remover. It can be cleaned with soap and water, and a damp cloth. Waxing is not needed but can be used. It is claimed to not wear off during the life of the furniture under normal use. Currently it is first being used on dining table tops.
Polyurethane Finish--
Care
Polyurethane varnishes are much more resistant to moisture and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need as much protection.
Cleaning
It may be wiped off with a damp cloth, or washed with a sponge or cloth wrung out of sudsy water and rinsed with a damp sponge/cloth, and wiped dry.
Varnished Wood Furniture--
Care
Protect finish overall with a furniture wax. Also protect surfaces from water, alcohol, other liquids, foods and cosmetics.
Regular Cleaning
Vacuum and/or dust with a soft dry cloth. If finish is waxed, do not use oiled or treated cloths, as they may make it sticky. Occasional rubbing of surface with clean, dry, soft cloth removes smudges and dust and leaves a sheen. Some varnish finishes may be wiped with a damp (not wet) cloth to remove fingerprints and light soil, followed at once by rubbing with a clean dry cloth. Test first on inconspicuous spot to be sure this does not damage varnish. Do not get varnish wet, or allow damp cloth to stand on it.
Some varnish finishes may be washed if badly soiled. Test method first in inconspicuous spot; if it streaks, or turns white and hazy, do not wash! If it looks as though it is safe to proceed, use a solution of mild detergent (hand dishwashing liquid) and lukewarm water. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth. Wash, rinse and dry only a small area at a time. Try to work quickly to avoid over-wetting the finish. Avoid excess water, especially around joints. When the piece is completely dry, polish or wax. In most cases, it saves time and energy to clean with furniture polish/wax in the first place.
Oil soaps may clean satisfactorily on some varnish finishes; test first in inconspicuous spot.
Cleaning Oil Finish Wood Furniture
To clean oiled wood, use a solution of 1 cup boiled linseed oil, 1-cup turpentine, and 1/3 cup white vinegar. Turpentine is flammable so do not use around flame or spark; do not get on skin; do not breathe fumes. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil; then wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get sticky. To finish, rub with the grain.
DO NOT USE wax or furniture polish on an oil finish.
Re-oil yearly with boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or a product recommended by the manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for furniture. Avoid using an oil dressing too often or too liberally, as it will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to dissolve the residue.
CAUTION: When using mineral spirits or other solvents, follow all label directions and warning. They are flammable, so don't use near flame or spark or pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward or wash with hot suds and let them air dry thoroughly before storing. Work in well-ventilated room and avoid breathing fumes. Air-dry cloths used to evaporate solvent before disposing.
Lacquer is hard and glossy but it may be dented or chipped so you will want to avoid hard blows. You might not want to use lacquer if you are finishing say a child’s toy or step stool. Also try not to use water unless the furniture label recommends it. A lot of new furniture has a durable lacquer finish. Older lacquered pieces or imported items may have finishes affected by some solvents, so test products first on an inconspicuous place.
Cleaning lacquered furniture
Vacuum and/or dust with a soft, dry, cloth; do not use oiled or treated cloths on waxed finishes. Some finishes can be wiped with a damp cloth, followed at once by rubbing with a dry cloth, (test first in inconspicuous spot) to remove fingerprints and smudges. A solvent-based furniture cleaner can be used on most finishes (test first).
Special Cleaning
Use a solvent-base furniture cleaner. Apply with soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with soft cloth in other hand, doing only a small area at a time. An oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes but test first in an inconspicuous spot to be sure it is OK with finish.
Protect with liquid wax or polish to maintain gloss.
Resin Lacquer Protection:
3-M has introduced a "Scotchgard" wood protection which is synthetic resin looking much like a traditional lacquer finish. But it is claimed to resist stains, chips, scratches, heat; spots or rings from water- alcohol, and oil-based liquids, and damage from solvent- based products such as nail polish and polish remover. It can be cleaned with soap and water, and a damp cloth. Waxing is not needed but can be used. It is claimed to not wear off during the life of the furniture under normal use. Currently it is first being used on dining table tops.
Polyurethane Finish--
Care
Polyurethane varnishes are much more resistant to moisture and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need as much protection.
Cleaning
It may be wiped off with a damp cloth, or washed with a sponge or cloth wrung out of sudsy water and rinsed with a damp sponge/cloth, and wiped dry.
Varnished Wood Furniture--
Care
Protect finish overall with a furniture wax. Also protect surfaces from water, alcohol, other liquids, foods and cosmetics.
Regular Cleaning
Vacuum and/or dust with a soft dry cloth. If finish is waxed, do not use oiled or treated cloths, as they may make it sticky. Occasional rubbing of surface with clean, dry, soft cloth removes smudges and dust and leaves a sheen. Some varnish finishes may be wiped with a damp (not wet) cloth to remove fingerprints and light soil, followed at once by rubbing with a clean dry cloth. Test first on inconspicuous spot to be sure this does not damage varnish. Do not get varnish wet, or allow damp cloth to stand on it.
Some varnish finishes may be washed if badly soiled. Test method first in inconspicuous spot; if it streaks, or turns white and hazy, do not wash! If it looks as though it is safe to proceed, use a solution of mild detergent (hand dishwashing liquid) and lukewarm water. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth. Wash, rinse and dry only a small area at a time. Try to work quickly to avoid over-wetting the finish. Avoid excess water, especially around joints. When the piece is completely dry, polish or wax. In most cases, it saves time and energy to clean with furniture polish/wax in the first place.
Oil soaps may clean satisfactorily on some varnish finishes; test first in inconspicuous spot.
Cleaning Oil Finish Wood Furniture
To clean oiled wood, use a solution of 1 cup boiled linseed oil, 1-cup turpentine, and 1/3 cup white vinegar. Turpentine is flammable so do not use around flame or spark; do not get on skin; do not breathe fumes. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil; then wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get sticky. To finish, rub with the grain.
DO NOT USE wax or furniture polish on an oil finish.
Re-oil yearly with boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or a product recommended by the manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for furniture. Avoid using an oil dressing too often or too liberally, as it will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to dissolve the residue.
CAUTION: When using mineral spirits or other solvents, follow all label directions and warning. They are flammable, so don't use near flame or spark or pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward or wash with hot suds and let them air dry thoroughly before storing. Work in well-ventilated room and avoid breathing fumes. Air-dry cloths used to evaporate solvent before disposing.
