Uploaded November 2024 | Updated September 2026, 3 days ago

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Timestamps:
0:00 Dr. Keith Baar
1:00 Two hangs per day
2:58 Background to research
3:58 Groups of climbers
5:18 Results!
8:01 Conclusions
11.50 Limitations
12:40 Next steps

This description will be updated as more information becomes available!

If you wish to help with the prospective study you can answer the VISA-C (injury questionaire) here:
tinyurl.com/ucdavisclimbingstudy

You can download Crimpd here and search for "Emil" to try the workout yourself:
crimpd.com

Link to Ryan Devlin's podcast with me and Keith Baar:
youtu.be/8hXfvFuA_6E?si=53Q8ZKdHWSryPicn

Link to the article:
sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7

Original video "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days":
youtube.com/watch?v=sBTI9qiH4UE&t=206s

Follow up two years later "Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years":
youtube.com/watch?v=0rAkLqk3UXM

Massive thank you to Keith Baar, Natalie Gilmore and Peter Klimek for making this knowledge available to us all.

My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/dronehv
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/drone-cs-hv

Instagram:
instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_
instagram.com/cordiclimbs

FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson