Clickspring | Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool - Part 2 @Clickspring | Uploaded March 2015 | Updated October 2024, 4 hours ago.
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool - Part 2, by Clickspring.
A Finger Plate clamping tool is a valuable tool in any workshop, and is a great mini mill and mini lathe project. In this second and final part of the Finger Plate clamping tool build, I finish off the tool, by making the clamping finger, lifting screw and drilling jig bushings.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
Project Plans available from the Clickspring Store:
clickspringprojects.com/store.html
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper - amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:28 Anyway first things first, it needs to be marked out on a strip of mild steel plate. The symmetry of the part means that if I mark off the various dimensions along a center line,
00:56 I can then construct the rest of the shape using an engineers square and protractor. I must get around to buying some radius gauges for marking out. In the meantime, this washer will do the trick. You can see I'm opening up four holes.
02:21 The two outer ones are for later threading, and the two inner ones will form the end curves of the internal slot.
02:52 To make the slot, I started out with an undersized slot mill, and then once I had broken through, I moved the cutter closer to the line on each side, to bring the slot to size.
03:18 So thats the inside cutting complete, now for the edges. The band saw takes care of most of the waste stock. And I used the belt sander and filing machine to bring it closer to the line.
04:00 I've left it a little short of the line , to allow for a bit of finishing later. Now for those chamfered surfaces. First the depth of cut is marked out. And then its off to the mill.
04:45 This part is like the base; the surface of the raw stock is kind of rough. So I gave it a bit of time on some 240 grit paper, to clean it up and to leave a nice surface finish. And that's the clamping finger complete. You can see how it can be swung around the stud, to bring either end into use.
05:26 Now for the Lifting screw thumb wheel. This one was made very much like the clamping nut. I started with the knurl; trimmed off the end, and then drilled and threaded the center.
06:07 Once parted off, it becomes a bit hard to hold, so I used this cap screw as a mandrel, and did the rest of the turning while it was on that. I used a graver to form the dome. And then gave it very light touch with some emery paper.
06:45 A bit of loctite holds the threaded rod in place, and that's the tool basically done. All I need to finish the job, is a set of bushings for the cross hole jig.
07:08 Now the bushings are basically just a shouldered cylinder, with a hole drilled down the center, matching whatever size drill you intend to use for the cross hole.
08:33 I've faced off the end of the rod to have a look at the hole; As best as I can tell, its where it should be. The drilling feels quite stable, and the tool is easy to hold.
08:49 I can see this tool is going to get a lot of use on the belt sander and filing machine too. And if I'm working on something that tends to grab like brass, I can lock it down on the vise,and know that its going to sit tight.
References:
Finger Plate Clamping Tool books and plans (let me know if you are aware of any others):
"Workshop Practice Series Number 31" Stan Bray
teepublishing.co.uk/books/workshop-practice-series
"Tools For The Clockmaker And Repairer" John Wilding
ritetimepublishing.com
"The Model Engineers Workshop Manual" George H Thomas
teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual
"Model Engineer Magazine" Edition Vol 104, Issue 2596, 1951 Commander W.T. Barker
http://www.itech.net.au/modelengineer/
"The Machinist's Bedside Reader" Guy Lautard
pages 88-91
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool - Part 2
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool - Part 2, by Clickspring.
A Finger Plate clamping tool is a valuable tool in any workshop, and is a great mini mill and mini lathe project. In this second and final part of the Finger Plate clamping tool build, I finish off the tool, by making the clamping finger, lifting screw and drilling jig bushings.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
Project Plans available from the Clickspring Store:
clickspringprojects.com/store.html
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper - amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:28 Anyway first things first, it needs to be marked out on a strip of mild steel plate. The symmetry of the part means that if I mark off the various dimensions along a center line,
00:56 I can then construct the rest of the shape using an engineers square and protractor. I must get around to buying some radius gauges for marking out. In the meantime, this washer will do the trick. You can see I'm opening up four holes.
02:21 The two outer ones are for later threading, and the two inner ones will form the end curves of the internal slot.
02:52 To make the slot, I started out with an undersized slot mill, and then once I had broken through, I moved the cutter closer to the line on each side, to bring the slot to size.
03:18 So thats the inside cutting complete, now for the edges. The band saw takes care of most of the waste stock. And I used the belt sander and filing machine to bring it closer to the line.
04:00 I've left it a little short of the line , to allow for a bit of finishing later. Now for those chamfered surfaces. First the depth of cut is marked out. And then its off to the mill.
04:45 This part is like the base; the surface of the raw stock is kind of rough. So I gave it a bit of time on some 240 grit paper, to clean it up and to leave a nice surface finish. And that's the clamping finger complete. You can see how it can be swung around the stud, to bring either end into use.
05:26 Now for the Lifting screw thumb wheel. This one was made very much like the clamping nut. I started with the knurl; trimmed off the end, and then drilled and threaded the center.
06:07 Once parted off, it becomes a bit hard to hold, so I used this cap screw as a mandrel, and did the rest of the turning while it was on that. I used a graver to form the dome. And then gave it very light touch with some emery paper.
06:45 A bit of loctite holds the threaded rod in place, and that's the tool basically done. All I need to finish the job, is a set of bushings for the cross hole jig.
07:08 Now the bushings are basically just a shouldered cylinder, with a hole drilled down the center, matching whatever size drill you intend to use for the cross hole.
08:33 I've faced off the end of the rod to have a look at the hole; As best as I can tell, its where it should be. The drilling feels quite stable, and the tool is easy to hold.
08:49 I can see this tool is going to get a lot of use on the belt sander and filing machine too. And if I'm working on something that tends to grab like brass, I can lock it down on the vise,and know that its going to sit tight.
References:
Finger Plate Clamping Tool books and plans (let me know if you are aware of any others):
"Workshop Practice Series Number 31" Stan Bray
teepublishing.co.uk/books/workshop-practice-series
"Tools For The Clockmaker And Repairer" John Wilding
ritetimepublishing.com
"The Model Engineers Workshop Manual" George H Thomas
teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual
"Model Engineer Magazine" Edition Vol 104, Issue 2596, 1951 Commander W.T. Barker
http://www.itech.net.au/modelengineer/
"The Machinist's Bedside Reader" Guy Lautard
pages 88-91
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool - Part 2
