Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 3 - Making The Washers And Screws @Clickspring

Clickspring | Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 3 - Making The Washers And Screws @Clickspring | Uploaded February 2015 | Updated October 2024, 5 hours ago.
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 3, by Clickspring.

Plenty of lathe work in this video, making the brass washers and mild steel screws for the John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" project.

I also tackle a problem that has been bugging me for a while - how to get a decent scratch free polish using diamantine powder. Far from a perfect finish, but a big improvement on my previous efforts at a black polish.

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Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT

Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Sherline WW collets: amzn.to/2FYZ7F8
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: amzn.to/2HCOAMX

Other Videos to Watch:

How To Make A Clock Part 1 - Making The Clock Frames
youtu.be/B8Y146v8HxE

How To Machine A Small Lathe Carrier
youtu.be/zB9XhqzBNJs

Ask Me A Question:
clickspringprojects.com/contact.html

Abbreviated Transcript:
00:20 The washers are as you'd expect, a simple disc, but with an ornamental groove around the edge. I need 5 like this, and then an additional one with a countersink, making 6 in total. Its a fairly straightforward piece of turning, and I found it easiest to turn them all in the one sitting.
00:39 The first one I'm doing is the one with the countersink, followed by the 5 with just the simple clearance hole. Wilding recommends in his construction manual that they have a slight undercut at the center of the underside surface, so they seat well on the plates.
01:14 To do that I turned up a quick cement chuck on the small lathe, bonded the washers on with a little super glue, and then set up for a very light taper cut. Just a few degrees, and then took a facing cut across the underside of the washer. A little bit of heat breaks the super glue bond, and now the washers have a slightly concave base, and should sit nice and snug at the perimeter.
02:21 First I roughed out the shape, then undercut the head, and finally I used a die to cut the thread I parted them off just a little bit overlength to leave a bit of metal for finishing.
04:11 At this point the screw form is basically complete, it just needs to be brought to final dimension and then polished. So its back to the small lathe for the final operations.
04:34 Off camera I turned up this little filing guide to help me keep the edges of the screw square during sanding and polishing.
05:29 The lap aligns nicely with the surface of the screw head, and can be lightly rotated to bring a fresh cutting surface to bear on the work, but I've found that under power its a bit too aggressive, probably causing more problems than it solves. Operated by hand though, with a reasonably fine grit, and it does a good job.
06:25 I figured I would try out different polish consistencies, and a few other things, and see what I could learn. So first up I tried a fairly wet mix on a soft wood lap. Most of the texts also make mention of a putty consistency to the polish, so I tried that too. In both cases the polish cut ok,
07:30 So first of all I went back one step to remove the scratches with the emery paper. Then I resurfaced the wooden disc. I tried out a few different types of wood, but I found mdf had an immediate positive effect.
08:11 Now I know that the results are far from perfect, but the deep scratching problem all but disappeared, and for the first time, I was starting to see the surface pop out the way I had read in books.
08:26 Its a huge improvement on my previous efforts with diamantine, and at least now I know what I'm aiming for. Anyway, with that little adventure behind me, I blued the screws to finish them off.

References:

John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock construction manual:
ritetimepublishing.com

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$Spare Parts #13 - Making A Square Broach Making A Square Broach, by Clickspring. Its not necessarily a common event, but when you need to make a square hole, it can be difficult to get a precise result. One of the best methods to achieve a professional cut is to use a custom made broach, so in this video I go through the process of making one from scratch. Free Plans: http://www.clickspringprojects.com/uploads/3/8/2/2/38221101/small_square_broach_brass_only.pdf If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring A very special thank you to patron Dan Keen. You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Solidworks 2013 Bible: http://amzn.to/2FObS1D Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment (Workshop Practice Series) - https://amzn.to/2KbZo6l Sherline Lathe: http://amzn.to/2pnXM19 Sherline WW collets: http://amzn.to/2FYZ7F8 Heavy Duty Arbor Press: http://amzn.to/2G4gog7 Generic Dial Indicator 0.001: http://amzn.to/2FOFTyF Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: http://amzn.to/2tTEPb0 Kaowool 24 X 12 X 1 2400 F Ceramic Fiber Insulation: http://amzn.to/2pfsM3d Abbreviated Transcript: 00:06 No matter what your style of metal working project might be, every now and then theres a need to form a precise square hole. 00:21 A pilot hole locates the exact position of the desired square, and then the broach is forced through the workpiece. 00:53 And thats because, all of the teeth prior to the last tooth collectively prepare the opening for the final tooth to set the dimension, so within reason, we can tolerate some small errors in those teeth, providing that the very last one is correct. 01:26 Its much too long and slender to be turned between centers, so Ill need to form the features by incrementally extending the work from a 4 jaw chuck. And the other key feature is the pilot diameter, which must be centered on the square, so Im taking care to center the raw stock prior to forming that cylindrical shape. 01:48 I have the work reasonably well centered to begin with, so that when I position the dial indicator, the error that I see for each jaw is quite small I then use 2 chuck keys in opposition to each other, to move the work, so that the dial reads directly between the original 2 readings for both jaws. 02:13 Once its close, I move the zero reference to that point, so that becomes my target when I start to center the other two jaws. Once the work gets close to being centered, the errors start to sit nicely either side of that zero reference, and it gets easier to pull it into position. 02:53 But even doing this quickly, you can see that it will take a fair amount of time to do this for every cut, so theres a strong incentive to bypass this centering process if we can. For now though, the work is centered, so I can make a start on cutting that pilot diameter. 03:39 Next Im using the first groove position to register the tool after extending the work, and then Im using the hand wheels to advance the tool the required amount to form the next groove. Now inevitably I will have introduced a small eccentricity to each of these cuts, and the teeth wont be precisely spaced either. But as I mentioned before, they dont really need to be. 04:14 Providing I dont introduce any gross errors, Its close enough for the final result, and by accepting a small error, I can move through this part of the process very quickly. 05:14 The total amount of metal to be removed, is determined by the difference between the pilot diameter and the diameter of the circle that just encloses the final square. That metal removal must now be shared across all of the teeth, so it determines how much I feed out before cutting each tooth, and that in turn ends up determining the broach depth of cut. 05:32 The diameter difference also gives an indication of how many teeth are required to keep the chip load manageable. 06:15 At this point all of the features of the broach have been formed, so it can now be quench hardened, and on this occasion Im using the tray that I recently made for the current clock project. 07:07 In an industrial setting a broach is far more likely to be pulled through the work rather than pushed like this, and theres a real risk of fracture using an arbor press in this way, so be sure to take it carefully. 07:19 Make sure the broach is perfectly vertical before you push it through, and as always have your eye protection on. But even with all of the compromises, its still a great way to use home shop tools to quickly shape a precise square hole. Making A Square Broach, by Clickspring.$

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$Antikythera Fragment #5 - Ancient Tool Technology - The First Precision Drill Bit Antikythera Fragment #5 - #Ancient Tool Technology - The First #Precision Drill Bit, by Clickspring. There are a number of cutting tools implied in the wreckage of the Antikythera Mechanism, and one of the most interesting is the drill bit. In this video I explore a possible method of how an effective and precise drill bit could have been made in antiquity. The video where I show the carburisation process in detail can be found here: https://youtu.be/V_Mp1fNzIT8 If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring A very special thank you to Patrons: Sinking Valley Woodworks (http://www.sinkingvalleywoodworks.com) Glenn Trewitt Christopher Warnock Mike Manfrin Steven Sladewski Rollin W. Patrick, Jr. Jim Popwell Gary Levario Pete Askew Norman Lemke Andre van Soest Andrew Smith Bernd Fischer Rudolph Bescherer Jr Sam Towne Adam Slagle Jack Cause Jeremiah G. Mort Dave Seff Olof Haggren Stassinopoulos Thomas Florian Ragwitz Larry Pardi Michael Harmon Lonnie Koehn Tim Bray You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Solidworks 2013 Bible: http://amzn.to/2FObS1D Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment (Workshop Practice Series) - https://amzn.to/2KbZo6l Salamander A-6 SUPER Clay Graphite Morgan Melting Crucible: http://amzn.to/2pkVAak Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: http://amzn.to/2tTEPb0 Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: http://amzn.to/2HCOAMX Abbreviated Transcript: 00:12 The existence of an Ancient style of drill bit is strongly implied in the wreckage of the Antikythera Mechanism. And its fabrication would have likely hinged on a crucial process: The ability to take a malleable wrought iron, and transform it into something hard enough to cut bronze. 00:28 Ive covered the process in detail in a separate video, but essentially it involves packing an animal based charcoal and salt around the soft iron, sealing it in clay, and then heating it up to a red heat Im using a low carbon mild steel as a substitute for Ancient wrought iron. Its soft and ductile. 01:00 But there are some great examples of long slender turning to be found within the wreckage of the mechanism itself. Theres a shaft that extended from the lunar phase gearing up to the phase display on the front dial thats roughly 4mm in diameter. 01:16 And there are numerous other pins and shafts, some less than a mm in diameter. Im using a modern furnace for convenience, but a traditional charcoal furnace is quite capable of generating the required temperature. Once at a red heat, the process of carburising the iron is purely a time exercise. 01:51 So I reheated the rods, rolled them straight on a flat surface, and then requenched. The once soft metal is now very hard, but also extremely brittle, and so easily fractures under a light bending load. So to be of use as a cutting tool, it needs to be tempered, in this case to a light straw color. 02:40 I can see this end of the rod is a good straight section, so thatll become the actual bit, and the excess will be removed at the end of the process. A gentle heat raises the temperature of the rod until a pale straw color just reaches what will become the cutting end. The material is now in a tempered state. Still very hard, but tough rather than brittle. 03:23 Despite no longer being widely used, it still has a number of attributes to recommend it. The first being that its very easy to make. Because the primary surfaces can all be formed by hand, on flat abrasive stones. The cutting edges can be shaped for unidirectional cutting, or as in the case that Im showing onscreen, for single direction cutting. 03:59 And once the operational length has been decided, it can be permanently set by scoring the metal with a file, and then snapping off the excess material. 04:38 In its rigid cross section form, this sort of drill bit will often perform much like a traditional D bit. Delivering a very straight deep hole. Now there is of course an obvious drawback to the drill bit design: The need to repeatedly withdraw it from the work to clear the chips. 05:36 As soon as the cutting edges start to dull, a quick hit on the stones will bring them back to original condition. Now you wont want to throw out your twist drills any time soon, but its a great option to keep in mind for those rare occasions when you really do need a custom drill bit. References: Watchmaking by Daniels: http://amzn.to/2FH3cyh The many books and DVDs by WR (Bill) Smith: https://wrsmithclocks.com/dvd/ Antikythera Fragment #5 - The First Precision Drill Bit, by Clickspring.$

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