Clickspring | Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock - Part 15 - Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames @Clickspring | Uploaded January 2016 | Updated October 2024, 1 hour ago.
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
In this video I fit the dial assembly to the clock frames.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
________________________________________________________
A very special thank you to patron KayKey From Norway.
________________________________________________________
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: amzn.to/2tTEPb0
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: amzn.to/2HCOAMX
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit clickspringprojects.com
Abbreviated Transcript:
0:00:32 The original plan, was to use screws to hold the chapter ring captive, and then install dial feet and pillars like this. But after living with this idea for a while, I've decided to modify it to this. It means I don't have to make any more holes in the bezel, and it pulls the dial pillars down below the pivot holes, which I think makes the whole arrangement look a lot better.
0:01:48 I'm also giving what will be the outside surface of the dial brackets a light polish, before the dial feet are fastened in place. I'll do the final polishing at the very end of the clock build, but once the dial feet are in place, it'll be a bit awkward to get access to this surface, so I'm doing most of the work now. A quick wash in some solvent, and that's the brackets complete for the moment.
0:02:56 Now the length of the disc shaped section isn't critical, but it is important that all three be exactly the same. So much like the frame pillars in a previous video, I identified the shortest one, and then using the same lathe setting, faced all 3 to match.
0:03:13 Next up are the dial pillars, and much like the frame pillars, I didn't like my chances of getting a consistent result across all three, without a bit of help from a form tool. So I formed the basic curves required into some hardened steel using the bench grinder, and then tidied up the cutting edge using abrasive stones.
0:03:32 I chose a 1/4" diameter for the curves, so that the oilstones I have on hand could be used to bring that inside curve to the proper dimension. Most of the profile of the part was then generated from this single cutting tool. And again you can see I've put a small point on the end of the work. In this case I'm going to use it to locate the central axis of the part when I drill and tap the small cross holes later on.
0:05:53 The spigot extending through the other side was then reduced, and again a light polish put on the surface. Much like the pillars, these parts will get a lot of handling before the clock is completed, so a quick lacquer will keep them safe until the end of the build. The brackets can now be fitted to the back of the dial assembly. And that's where I'll leave the dial assembly for now.
0:06:54 The next step is to drill and tap the holes in the front plate, to accept the pillars. Each of the holes is at a fixed radius from the center arbor pivot hole, and I'm using this depthing tool to mark out that distance.
0:07:43 With all 3 hole positions marked out, each was then drilled and tapped to match the thread on the dial pillars. The pillars can now be screwed into the front plate, and we can have our first look at how the dial assembly fits in place.
0:08:51 And this is where I use the point I formed on the end of the pillars, to ensure that the cross holes are aligned with the axis of the part. Now that the point has served its purpose, it can be removed, and a polished surface put in its place.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
In this video I fit the dial assembly to the clock frames.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
________________________________________________________
A very special thank you to patron KayKey From Norway.
________________________________________________________
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: amzn.to/2tTEPb0
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: amzn.to/2HCOAMX
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit clickspringprojects.com
Abbreviated Transcript:
0:00:32 The original plan, was to use screws to hold the chapter ring captive, and then install dial feet and pillars like this. But after living with this idea for a while, I've decided to modify it to this. It means I don't have to make any more holes in the bezel, and it pulls the dial pillars down below the pivot holes, which I think makes the whole arrangement look a lot better.
0:01:48 I'm also giving what will be the outside surface of the dial brackets a light polish, before the dial feet are fastened in place. I'll do the final polishing at the very end of the clock build, but once the dial feet are in place, it'll be a bit awkward to get access to this surface, so I'm doing most of the work now. A quick wash in some solvent, and that's the brackets complete for the moment.
0:02:56 Now the length of the disc shaped section isn't critical, but it is important that all three be exactly the same. So much like the frame pillars in a previous video, I identified the shortest one, and then using the same lathe setting, faced all 3 to match.
0:03:13 Next up are the dial pillars, and much like the frame pillars, I didn't like my chances of getting a consistent result across all three, without a bit of help from a form tool. So I formed the basic curves required into some hardened steel using the bench grinder, and then tidied up the cutting edge using abrasive stones.
0:03:32 I chose a 1/4" diameter for the curves, so that the oilstones I have on hand could be used to bring that inside curve to the proper dimension. Most of the profile of the part was then generated from this single cutting tool. And again you can see I've put a small point on the end of the work. In this case I'm going to use it to locate the central axis of the part when I drill and tap the small cross holes later on.
0:05:53 The spigot extending through the other side was then reduced, and again a light polish put on the surface. Much like the pillars, these parts will get a lot of handling before the clock is completed, so a quick lacquer will keep them safe until the end of the build. The brackets can now be fitted to the back of the dial assembly. And that's where I'll leave the dial assembly for now.
0:06:54 The next step is to drill and tap the holes in the front plate, to accept the pillars. Each of the holes is at a fixed radius from the center arbor pivot hole, and I'm using this depthing tool to mark out that distance.
0:07:43 With all 3 hole positions marked out, each was then drilled and tapped to match the thread on the dial pillars. The pillars can now be screwed into the front plate, and we can have our first look at how the dial assembly fits in place.
0:08:51 And this is where I use the point I formed on the end of the pillars, to ensure that the cross holes are aligned with the axis of the part. Now that the point has served its purpose, it can be removed, and a polished surface put in its place.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
