Clickspring | Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2 @Clickspring | Uploaded April 2015 | Updated October 2024, 1 hour ago.
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2, by Clickspring.
In this second and final video on making a tailstock die holder, I complete the tool by making the #0 Morse taper shaft and the handle.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
For more info on this tool build, as well as other tool making info, visit clickspringprojects.com
Project Plans available from the Clickspring Store:
clickspringprojects.com/store.html
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Anytime Tools 5 Lathe Mill CENTER DRILL : amzn.to/2IThppO
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Interapid Dial Test Indicator: amzn.to/2FPInwH
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:15 The shaft is a straight forward piece of turning, but its worth noting that all of the cylindrical features must be concentric for it to work. The center holes on the shaft for the existing tool suggest it was turned between centers to achieve this result. I'm going to machine part of it between centers, but I'll machine the taper while holding it in a collet. So starting with a piece of mild steel, I prepared it for turning between centers, by giving it a facing cut and center drilling each end.
00:55 To be honest, I find it more convenient to do this, than to take off the chuck to put in a center anyway, and since its turned in place, I know its right on the center line of the lathe. A lathe carrier was attached to the work, and the part set up for turning.
01:37 With the first cut marked out, I started the job of turning the profile to size. The fit with the main bore is quite nice,
so I'm calling that done. Next up is the taper, and for this I'm shifting to an ER collet to hold the part.
02:51 So this little Sherline drill arbor is my test subject, and it'll sit nicely in a collet while I copy its taper with an indicator. I set the compound over to roughly the correct angle, and then spent a bit of time tapping it into place, until it was travelling parallel to the taper in the chuck.
04:01 Now the only zero morse taper I have for testing the result, is the one sitting in the lathe, so I pulled it out of the tailstock body to make it a bit more convenient to hold, and used it as a gauge to check my progress.
04:30 The size is about right, but the surface finish could be better. So a quick touch with a mill file to smooth out the tool marks, and the fit is excellent. A light chamfer, and its done.
04:54 The steel shaft is a lot harder than the aluminium, so it will wear the bore a little over time, loosening the fit a tiny amount, but I don't think it will be a major issue. The next part of the tool to make is this handle.
05:07 It needs a thread cut on it so it can screw into the main tool body, so first up I faced the stock and then turned the end to the correct diameter for threading. I cut a little chamfer on the end to help start the thread,and used my existing die holder to hold the die.
06:07 The thread also needs a good undercut, so that the handle pulls down nicely into the main body of the tool. And lastly I reduced it to final length and gave it a general tidy up. The part was then flipped in the chuck, and the other end was given a clean up too.
06:53 I'm really enjoying using a graver to turn this sort of non critical stuff. They're so much fun to use, and probably quicker than messing around with a form tool to do the same cut.
07:22 I also decided to put in some ornamental grooves, just to pretty it up a little, and make it a bit more pleasant to hold. And thats the handle done. Were on the home stretch.
08:51 I can see the die is sitting quite steady as the thread is cut, and it does a much better job than the standard holder, of holding the die square to the work. Its got a nice light feel to it; I get a direct sense of how the thread is being cut, through the grip. I've got a lot of these screws to make, this tool is going to get plenty of use.
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2, by Clickspring.
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2, by Clickspring.
In this second and final video on making a tailstock die holder, I complete the tool by making the #0 Morse taper shaft and the handle.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
For more info on this tool build, as well as other tool making info, visit clickspringprojects.com
Project Plans available from the Clickspring Store:
clickspringprojects.com/store.html
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Anytime Tools 5 Lathe Mill CENTER DRILL : amzn.to/2IThppO
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Interapid Dial Test Indicator: amzn.to/2FPInwH
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:15 The shaft is a straight forward piece of turning, but its worth noting that all of the cylindrical features must be concentric for it to work. The center holes on the shaft for the existing tool suggest it was turned between centers to achieve this result. I'm going to machine part of it between centers, but I'll machine the taper while holding it in a collet. So starting with a piece of mild steel, I prepared it for turning between centers, by giving it a facing cut and center drilling each end.
00:55 To be honest, I find it more convenient to do this, than to take off the chuck to put in a center anyway, and since its turned in place, I know its right on the center line of the lathe. A lathe carrier was attached to the work, and the part set up for turning.
01:37 With the first cut marked out, I started the job of turning the profile to size. The fit with the main bore is quite nice,
so I'm calling that done. Next up is the taper, and for this I'm shifting to an ER collet to hold the part.
02:51 So this little Sherline drill arbor is my test subject, and it'll sit nicely in a collet while I copy its taper with an indicator. I set the compound over to roughly the correct angle, and then spent a bit of time tapping it into place, until it was travelling parallel to the taper in the chuck.
04:01 Now the only zero morse taper I have for testing the result, is the one sitting in the lathe, so I pulled it out of the tailstock body to make it a bit more convenient to hold, and used it as a gauge to check my progress.
04:30 The size is about right, but the surface finish could be better. So a quick touch with a mill file to smooth out the tool marks, and the fit is excellent. A light chamfer, and its done.
04:54 The steel shaft is a lot harder than the aluminium, so it will wear the bore a little over time, loosening the fit a tiny amount, but I don't think it will be a major issue. The next part of the tool to make is this handle.
05:07 It needs a thread cut on it so it can screw into the main tool body, so first up I faced the stock and then turned the end to the correct diameter for threading. I cut a little chamfer on the end to help start the thread,and used my existing die holder to hold the die.
06:07 The thread also needs a good undercut, so that the handle pulls down nicely into the main body of the tool. And lastly I reduced it to final length and gave it a general tidy up. The part was then flipped in the chuck, and the other end was given a clean up too.
06:53 I'm really enjoying using a graver to turn this sort of non critical stuff. They're so much fun to use, and probably quicker than messing around with a form tool to do the same cut.
07:22 I also decided to put in some ornamental grooves, just to pretty it up a little, and make it a bit more pleasant to hold. And thats the handle done. Were on the home stretch.
08:51 I can see the die is sitting quite steady as the thread is cut, and it does a much better job than the standard holder, of holding the die square to the work. Its got a nice light feel to it; I get a direct sense of how the thread is being cut, through the grip. I've got a lot of these screws to make, this tool is going to get plenty of use.
Machine Shop Tool Making, Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2, by Clickspring.
