Clickspring | Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock - Part 13 - Depthing And Planting The Train @Clickspring | Uploaded October 2015 | Updated October 2024, 1 hour ago.
Depthing And Planting The Train, by Clickspring.
In this video I take care of a few of the catch up operations that I skipped in the previous videos, and then depth and plant the going train of the clock.
Along with some lathe turning and drilling, there's plenty of hand broaching with clockmaker's cutting and smoothing broaches.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: amzn.to/2HFg1FU
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit clickspringprojects.com
Ask Me A Question:
clickspringprojects.com/contact.html
Abbreviated Transcript:
01:19 The tool I'm using to insert it is a right angled screwdriver, click the link if you'd like to see the video
showing how this was made.
02:30 Then I drilled a tapped a single hole, and used a commercial screw to keep everything fixed in place, while I drilled out the other 3 hole positions.
03:33 And then to complete this part of the build, I turned up a set of custom screws, polished and blued them, and then used them to fasten the great wheel in place.
04:05 Now "Depthing" and "Planting" are the terms clockmakers use to describe the process of correctly positioning the gears relative to each other within the mechanism.
04:13 There are some specialist tools required to get a good result, and one of those is this depthing tool I made in a previous video.
04:33 The center distance is slowly varied, using the fine adjustment screw, and after each change, the meshing of the gears is assessed.
05:17 The rest of the hole is formed by hand using these tapered clockmakers broaches.
05:43 Now you might be wondering about the need to form tapered pivot holes; why doesn't a standard straight hole do the job? And the reason is that compared to general engineering, clocks need a lot of free play at the pivots.
05:55 Mostly this is so that they can deal with the angular misalignment caused by flex in the plates, wear, or even a bent pivot, but it also helps them cope with dirt and oil gumming up the pivot holes over time. A straight pivot in a straight hole that experiences misalignment or contamination might bind, and stop the clock.
06:14 A tapered hole though, combined with some side clearance, gives a pivot the necessary angular freedom to cope with quite a lot, and continue to rotate.
07:02 Now each of the wheels was depthed and then the arbors let into the frame in a similar way, although there were some slight differences in each case. The center wheel was depthed as before, but in this case a trumpet runner used to mark off the dimension from the existing pivot hole.
07:33 The actual broaching is as simple as twisting the broach in the hole until it reaches the required clearance, whilst taking care to keep the broach vertical to the plate.
07:56 All of the twist drills I use on this clock have been modified to make them suitable for drilling brass. Click on the link if you'd like to see a video about that.
08:04 But even with that drill modification, this hole is at the upper end of what I'm comfortable with holding the workpiece as I drill.
08:47 When the arbor will just enter, the smoothing broach is used. Its surface must first be given an fine grain either with some emery, or in this case a diamond lap.
09:01 The smoothing broach does remove a small amount of metal, but its main job is to distort and work harden the surface, to leave a hard burnished bearing surface for the arbor to rotate in.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html
Guy Gibbons FBHI
"After the DLC - 66" British Horological Institute Journal
Depthing And Planting The Train, by Clickspring.
Depthing And Planting The Train, by Clickspring.
In this video I take care of a few of the catch up operations that I skipped in the previous videos, and then depth and plant the going train of the clock.
Along with some lathe turning and drilling, there's plenty of hand broaching with clockmaker's cutting and smoothing broaches.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: amzn.to/2HFg1FU
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Sherline Lathe: amzn.to/2pnXM19
Loctite 231097 603 Retaining Compound, 10 mL: amzn.to/2pid6vR
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit clickspringprojects.com
Ask Me A Question:
clickspringprojects.com/contact.html
Abbreviated Transcript:
01:19 The tool I'm using to insert it is a right angled screwdriver, click the link if you'd like to see the video
showing how this was made.
02:30 Then I drilled a tapped a single hole, and used a commercial screw to keep everything fixed in place, while I drilled out the other 3 hole positions.
03:33 And then to complete this part of the build, I turned up a set of custom screws, polished and blued them, and then used them to fasten the great wheel in place.
04:05 Now "Depthing" and "Planting" are the terms clockmakers use to describe the process of correctly positioning the gears relative to each other within the mechanism.
04:13 There are some specialist tools required to get a good result, and one of those is this depthing tool I made in a previous video.
04:33 The center distance is slowly varied, using the fine adjustment screw, and after each change, the meshing of the gears is assessed.
05:17 The rest of the hole is formed by hand using these tapered clockmakers broaches.
05:43 Now you might be wondering about the need to form tapered pivot holes; why doesn't a standard straight hole do the job? And the reason is that compared to general engineering, clocks need a lot of free play at the pivots.
05:55 Mostly this is so that they can deal with the angular misalignment caused by flex in the plates, wear, or even a bent pivot, but it also helps them cope with dirt and oil gumming up the pivot holes over time. A straight pivot in a straight hole that experiences misalignment or contamination might bind, and stop the clock.
06:14 A tapered hole though, combined with some side clearance, gives a pivot the necessary angular freedom to cope with quite a lot, and continue to rotate.
07:02 Now each of the wheels was depthed and then the arbors let into the frame in a similar way, although there were some slight differences in each case. The center wheel was depthed as before, but in this case a trumpet runner used to mark off the dimension from the existing pivot hole.
07:33 The actual broaching is as simple as twisting the broach in the hole until it reaches the required clearance, whilst taking care to keep the broach vertical to the plate.
07:56 All of the twist drills I use on this clock have been modified to make them suitable for drilling brass. Click on the link if you'd like to see a video about that.
08:04 But even with that drill modification, this hole is at the upper end of what I'm comfortable with holding the workpiece as I drill.
08:47 When the arbor will just enter, the smoothing broach is used. Its surface must first be given an fine grain either with some emery, or in this case a diamond lap.
09:01 The smoothing broach does remove a small amount of metal, but its main job is to distort and work harden the surface, to leave a hard burnished bearing surface for the arbor to rotate in.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html
Guy Gibbons FBHI
"After the DLC - 66" British Horological Institute Journal
Depthing And Planting The Train, by Clickspring.
