Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock - Part 10 - Machining A Bezel For The Chapter Ring @Clickspring

Clickspring | Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock - Part 10 - Machining A Bezel For The Chapter Ring @Clickspring | Uploaded July 2015 | Updated October 2024, 6 hours ago.
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 10, by Clickspring.

The chapter ring gets a little extra bling in this episode, with the addition of an ornamental bezel.

Plenty of lathe and milling operations in this video, as well as some of my favourite activity at the moment: hand turning with a graver.

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If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: patreon.com/clickspring

You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:

Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT

Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5

For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit clickspringprojects.com

Other Videos to Watch:

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 8 - Making The Barrel Arbor
youtube.com/watch?v=b5KwOi-JkEU

Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machining The Clock Pillars
youtube.com/watch?v=DoDkoioiR6w

Ask Me A Question:
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Abbreviated Transcript:

0:00:20 Wilding doesn't describe the fabrication of a bezel in his construction notes, but I think it will really add to the visual impact of the clock, and it's a feature that's consistent with the tradition of this design. I'd like the outer bezel to dominate visually, so I'm going to give it an ornamental pattern.
0:00:42 The real challenge for this part is simply holding onto it to make the cuts, and if you've been watching the previous videos in this series, you won't be surprised to see me reaching for another super glue arbor. I've sized this arbor to give me access to the front and perimeter of the part, and to also allow me to make a trepanning cut in the center which I'll show you in a moment.
0:01:03 Once the blank was fixed in place, I trimmed the perimeter to size. Then I made the trepanning cut to remove the stock from the center. This slug of brass will make an excellent great wheel on a future clock. The inside diameter was brought to dimension, and then I formed the recess to accept the chapter ring.
0:01:58 At this point I'm giving it a very slight back taper, for a snap fit with the chapter ring, and good undercut for a close seating. I've machined a register on a second arbor to be a close fit in that recess. This arbor will then hold the part from the other side, so that I can machine the other face.
0:02:51 I want the ornamental cuts to be precisely the same depth around the entire piece. The work was then set up on the mill to form the pattern. I'm using a rotary table for indexing, and I'm making the cut with this shop made D bit cutter.
0:03:11 I've shaped it with a wide angle on the tip, to give a broad shallow cut that I hope will generate interesting reflections from the light. The cutter was positioned over the work, and a series of fine cuts were made to create the pattern.
0:04:32 The milling needs a little tidying up at the edges, so I re-mounted the work in the lathe, and carefully skimmed the perimeter. I also pulled out the form tools that I usedin a previous video to make the pillars. I used them here to put a light camber on the outside edge, as well as a nice contour on the inside rim.
0:05:02 So before anything else I put on a coat of lacquer. I will need to redo this again later. But for now it'll keep the oxidation to a minimum. So now on to the inner bezel. And in some respects this part was more difficult to make, simply because it ends up so small and flimsy.
0:05:24 I held it in a similar way using a super glue arbor, and started by truing up the disc, and then machining the recess for the chapter ring.
0:06:00 I turned up another arbor with a register that matched the rim, and then after it was fixed into place, I formed the basic profile of the bezel. I finished the final profiling by hand using this high speed steel graver.
0:06:29 And I know I've said it before, but I just can't get enough of this freehand turning, especially on brass. So with both the inner and outer bezel complete, its time for a closer look at how it all fits together.
0:07:46 And that's the bezel done for now. Now whilst the outer bezel is a good fit, I think it would be better to have a more robust idea to lock it in place, so in the next video, I'll make some bezel screws that should do the job.

References:

John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.htmL

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$Spare Parts #13 - Making A Square Broach Making A Square Broach, by Clickspring. Its not necessarily a common event, but when you need to make a square hole, it can be difficult to get a precise result. One of the best methods to achieve a professional cut is to use a custom made broach, so in this video I go through the process of making one from scratch. Free Plans: http://www.clickspringprojects.com/uploads/3/8/2/2/38221101/small_square_broach_brass_only.pdf If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring A very special thank you to patron Dan Keen. You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Solidworks 2013 Bible: http://amzn.to/2FObS1D Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment (Workshop Practice Series) - https://amzn.to/2KbZo6l Sherline Lathe: http://amzn.to/2pnXM19 Sherline WW collets: http://amzn.to/2FYZ7F8 Heavy Duty Arbor Press: http://amzn.to/2G4gog7 Generic Dial Indicator 0.001: http://amzn.to/2FOFTyF Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: http://amzn.to/2tTEPb0 Kaowool 24 X 12 X 1 2400 F Ceramic Fiber Insulation: http://amzn.to/2pfsM3d Abbreviated Transcript: 00:06 No matter what your style of metal working project might be, every now and then theres a need to form a precise square hole. 00:21 A pilot hole locates the exact position of the desired square, and then the broach is forced through the workpiece. 00:53 And thats because, all of the teeth prior to the last tooth collectively prepare the opening for the final tooth to set the dimension, so within reason, we can tolerate some small errors in those teeth, providing that the very last one is correct. 01:26 Its much too long and slender to be turned between centers, so Ill need to form the features by incrementally extending the work from a 4 jaw chuck. And the other key feature is the pilot diameter, which must be centered on the square, so Im taking care to center the raw stock prior to forming that cylindrical shape. 01:48 I have the work reasonably well centered to begin with, so that when I position the dial indicator, the error that I see for each jaw is quite small I then use 2 chuck keys in opposition to each other, to move the work, so that the dial reads directly between the original 2 readings for both jaws. 02:13 Once its close, I move the zero reference to that point, so that becomes my target when I start to center the other two jaws. Once the work gets close to being centered, the errors start to sit nicely either side of that zero reference, and it gets easier to pull it into position. 02:53 But even doing this quickly, you can see that it will take a fair amount of time to do this for every cut, so theres a strong incentive to bypass this centering process if we can. For now though, the work is centered, so I can make a start on cutting that pilot diameter. 03:39 Next Im using the first groove position to register the tool after extending the work, and then Im using the hand wheels to advance the tool the required amount to form the next groove. Now inevitably I will have introduced a small eccentricity to each of these cuts, and the teeth wont be precisely spaced either. But as I mentioned before, they dont really need to be. 04:14 Providing I dont introduce any gross errors, Its close enough for the final result, and by accepting a small error, I can move through this part of the process very quickly. 05:14 The total amount of metal to be removed, is determined by the difference between the pilot diameter and the diameter of the circle that just encloses the final square. That metal removal must now be shared across all of the teeth, so it determines how much I feed out before cutting each tooth, and that in turn ends up determining the broach depth of cut. 05:32 The diameter difference also gives an indication of how many teeth are required to keep the chip load manageable. 06:15 At this point all of the features of the broach have been formed, so it can now be quench hardened, and on this occasion Im using the tray that I recently made for the current clock project. 07:07 In an industrial setting a broach is far more likely to be pulled through the work rather than pushed like this, and theres a real risk of fracture using an arbor press in this way, so be sure to take it carefully. 07:19 Make sure the broach is perfectly vertical before you push it through, and as always have your eye protection on. But even with all of the compromises, its still a great way to use home shop tools to quickly shape a precise square hole. Making A Square Broach, by Clickspring.$

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$Antikythera Fragment #5 - Ancient Tool Technology - The First Precision Drill Bit Antikythera Fragment #5 - #Ancient Tool Technology - The First #Precision Drill Bit, by Clickspring. There are a number of cutting tools implied in the wreckage of the Antikythera Mechanism, and one of the most interesting is the drill bit. In this video I explore a possible method of how an effective and precise drill bit could have been made in antiquity. The video where I show the carburisation process in detail can be found here: https://youtu.be/V_Mp1fNzIT8 If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring A very special thank you to Patrons: Sinking Valley Woodworks (http://www.sinkingvalleywoodworks.com) Glenn Trewitt Christopher Warnock Mike Manfrin Steven Sladewski Rollin W. Patrick, Jr. Jim Popwell Gary Levario Pete Askew Norman Lemke Andre van Soest Andrew Smith Bernd Fischer Rudolph Bescherer Jr Sam Towne Adam Slagle Jack Cause Jeremiah G. Mort Dave Seff Olof Haggren Stassinopoulos Thomas Florian Ragwitz Larry Pardi Michael Harmon Lonnie Koehn Tim Bray You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links: Cameras used in this video: Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2 Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT Tools & Shop Products: Solidworks 2013 Bible: http://amzn.to/2FObS1D Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment (Workshop Practice Series) - https://amzn.to/2KbZo6l Salamander A-6 SUPER Clay Graphite Morgan Melting Crucible: http://amzn.to/2pkVAak Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: http://amzn.to/2tTEPb0 Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: http://amzn.to/2HCOAMX Abbreviated Transcript: 00:12 The existence of an Ancient style of drill bit is strongly implied in the wreckage of the Antikythera Mechanism. And its fabrication would have likely hinged on a crucial process: The ability to take a malleable wrought iron, and transform it into something hard enough to cut bronze. 00:28 Ive covered the process in detail in a separate video, but essentially it involves packing an animal based charcoal and salt around the soft iron, sealing it in clay, and then heating it up to a red heat Im using a low carbon mild steel as a substitute for Ancient wrought iron. Its soft and ductile. 01:00 But there are some great examples of long slender turning to be found within the wreckage of the mechanism itself. Theres a shaft that extended from the lunar phase gearing up to the phase display on the front dial thats roughly 4mm in diameter. 01:16 And there are numerous other pins and shafts, some less than a mm in diameter. Im using a modern furnace for convenience, but a traditional charcoal furnace is quite capable of generating the required temperature. Once at a red heat, the process of carburising the iron is purely a time exercise. 01:51 So I reheated the rods, rolled them straight on a flat surface, and then requenched. The once soft metal is now very hard, but also extremely brittle, and so easily fractures under a light bending load. So to be of use as a cutting tool, it needs to be tempered, in this case to a light straw color. 02:40 I can see this end of the rod is a good straight section, so thatll become the actual bit, and the excess will be removed at the end of the process. A gentle heat raises the temperature of the rod until a pale straw color just reaches what will become the cutting end. The material is now in a tempered state. Still very hard, but tough rather than brittle. 03:23 Despite no longer being widely used, it still has a number of attributes to recommend it. The first being that its very easy to make. Because the primary surfaces can all be formed by hand, on flat abrasive stones. The cutting edges can be shaped for unidirectional cutting, or as in the case that Im showing onscreen, for single direction cutting. 03:59 And once the operational length has been decided, it can be permanently set by scoring the metal with a file, and then snapping off the excess material. 04:38 In its rigid cross section form, this sort of drill bit will often perform much like a traditional D bit. Delivering a very straight deep hole. Now there is of course an obvious drawback to the drill bit design: The need to repeatedly withdraw it from the work to clear the chips. 05:36 As soon as the cutting edges start to dull, a quick hit on the stones will bring them back to original condition. Now you wont want to throw out your twist drills any time soon, but its a great option to keep in mind for those rare occasions when you really do need a custom drill bit. References: Watchmaking by Daniels: http://amzn.to/2FH3cyh The many books and DVDs by WR (Bill) Smith: https://wrsmithclocks.com/dvd/ Antikythera Fragment #5 - The First Precision Drill Bit, by Clickspring.$