Uploaded March 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
As long as you fix the stickiness of the door handles, stopping them from sticking out when locking (as shown in the previous video), then the gen1 handles can be much much safer. If the handles close correctly they will allow you to open the car with the handle, even when locked and if there is no 12V power. (See * note below). You pull twice on the handle to open the door when it is locked. Here is the video evidence. My car is on car s/w 2.5.1.
Here is the fix video for stopping them sticking out: youtu.be/JICahBUD2qE
00:00 Introduction: Addressing the Door Handle Recall
00:26 Test 1: Emergency Exit from a Locked Car (Normal Power)
00:58 Test 2: Simulating a Total Power Failure (12V & High Voltage Cut)
01:51 Will You Be Locked In During a Crash?
03:00 Test 3: Emergency Exit in the Unlocked Position
03:55 How to Fix UV Damage and Saving $1000+
The emphasis here is that the door handle will open the door, even under power failure, providing that the door handle retracts after locking. It is still possible to fool the car system into a lock up scenario by holding out the handle while locking and then immediately disconnecting the 12V power but this is an unlikely scenario.
* Note: there is also the door latch design issue that if the interior handle is pulled out and kept out before an unlock then this prevents the opening of the door. It needs to be released then lock-unlock and then pulled again to get out. This is a similar situation and cause as when the exterior handle is stuck out. The problem is caused by the door latch design not the handle unit.
Related to this is a very rare case, but nonetheless a reported case of entrapment caused by 12v failure at the exact same time as doors were being locked, where the door latch locks then immediately the 12v fails before the exterior handles have had time to close. This then looks like the situation where the handles stick out after locking and exit is prevented. In that case all 4 doors are affected the same and entrapment occurs. I believe this is prevented by a “compensatory mechanism” in the gen2a door handle unit, so that an open exterior handle doesn’t indicate a partial handle pull to the door latch unit. The issue is much more of a door latch design issue. Probably it was more difficult to get the door latch redeisgned (made in china) than it was to ask for a door handle unit redesign (made in uk).
More tests and information to follow after discussions with the manufacturer so subscribe and click the Bell to be notified of further update sand videos.
I SHOULD ADD THIS IS MY PERSONAL OPINION BASED ON THE TESTS I HAVE PERSONALLY PERFORMED. BY WATCHING THIS VIDEO YOU ACCEPT FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY VEHICLE CHANGES YOU DO. NO LIABILITY ACCEPTED. THIS IS JUST MY STORY.
Here are generally useful items from Amazon or eBay. Using these links will not cost you any more than going there without using these, but it does earn me some few coins and saves you a bit of time. As an Amazon and eBay Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
An easy 12V disconnect switch:
amzn.to/4cbJeIz
Trim/Panel removal tool set: amzn.to/4c6jjCW
Other useful items for the Fisker Ocean:
Dog guard that fits the Ocean: amzn.to/4ikbIkh
Car boot protector, with bumper and side protection: amzn.to/3RishSv
A 20A Smart 12V battery charger, well made: amzn.to/4jtyoA5
A 12V quick battery isolator: ebay UK: ebay.us/ud0LOe eBay USA: ebay.us/KRMNVm
A bluetooth 12V battery monitor (very useful): amzn.to/3YyIOWm
PPF film (Paint Protection Film) for covering handles: Amazon: amzn.to/43aHcEY
Jacking pucks (Just need to grind down the top nipple to make narrower) amzn.to/3YLyDgN
RainX spray to keep rain and dirt off your cameras, in order to minimise ADAS warnings
Plus RainX screen wash to do the same as above: amzn.to/497cxu2
A bluetooth shunt monitor (of current, voltage, accurate SOC on your 12V): amzn.to/4p9RWvk
Battery cabling and connectors for use with above: amzn.to/3Y3U8t8
For cheap diagnostics: Discount link for mucar bt200max OBD2 dongle (free software!): mythinkcar.com/?ref=fqunijit
A cheap (and I think better) way to have Carplay/AA, phone mirroring video’s etc, without subscription, use your phone for internet, by having a separate carplay screen so you still keep the main fisker screen: Buying Links for the EONON Portable-P4: amzn.to/4cXoxA1
Subscribe: youtube.com/subscribe_widget?p=comeinhandynow
The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take..
As long as you fix the stickiness of the door handles, stopping them from sticking out when locking (as shown in the previous video), then the gen1 handles can be much much safer. If the handles close correctly they will allow you to open the car with the handle, even when locked and if there is no 12V power. (See * note below). You pull twice on the handle to open the door when it is locked. Here is the video evidence. My car is on car s/w 2.5.1.
Here is the fix video for stopping them sticking out: youtu.be/JICahBUD2qE
00:00 Introduction: Addressing the Door Handle Recall
00:26 Test 1: Emergency Exit from a Locked Car (Normal Power)
00:58 Test 2: Simulating a Total Power Failure (12V & High Voltage Cut)
01:51 Will You Be Locked In During a Crash?
03:00 Test 3: Emergency Exit in the Unlocked Position
03:55 How to Fix UV Damage and Saving $1000+
The emphasis here is that the door handle will open the door, even under power failure, providing that the door handle retracts after locking. It is still possible to fool the car system into a lock up scenario by holding out the handle while locking and then immediately disconnecting the 12V power but this is an unlikely scenario.
* Note: there is also the door latch design issue that if the interior handle is pulled out and kept out before an unlock then this prevents the opening of the door. It needs to be released then lock-unlock and then pulled again to get out. This is a similar situation and cause as when the exterior handle is stuck out. The problem is caused by the door latch design not the handle unit.
Related to this is a very rare case, but nonetheless a reported case of entrapment caused by 12v failure at the exact same time as doors were being locked, where the door latch locks then immediately the 12v fails before the exterior handles have had time to close. This then looks like the situation where the handles stick out after locking and exit is prevented. In that case all 4 doors are affected the same and entrapment occurs. I believe this is prevented by a “compensatory mechanism” in the gen2a door handle unit, so that an open exterior handle doesn’t indicate a partial handle pull to the door latch unit. The issue is much more of a door latch design issue. Probably it was more difficult to get the door latch redeisgned (made in china) than it was to ask for a door handle unit redesign (made in uk).
More tests and information to follow after discussions with the manufacturer so subscribe and click the Bell to be notified of further update sand videos.
I SHOULD ADD THIS IS MY PERSONAL OPINION BASED ON THE TESTS I HAVE PERSONALLY PERFORMED. BY WATCHING THIS VIDEO YOU ACCEPT FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY VEHICLE CHANGES YOU DO. NO LIABILITY ACCEPTED. THIS IS JUST MY STORY.
Here are generally useful items from Amazon or eBay. Using these links will not cost you any more than going there without using these, but it does earn me some few coins and saves you a bit of time. As an Amazon and eBay Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
An easy 12V disconnect switch:
amzn.to/4cbJeIz
Trim/Panel removal tool set: amzn.to/4c6jjCW
Other useful items for the Fisker Ocean:
Dog guard that fits the Ocean: amzn.to/4ikbIkh
Car boot protector, with bumper and side protection: amzn.to/3RishSv
A 20A Smart 12V battery charger, well made: amzn.to/4jtyoA5
A 12V quick battery isolator: ebay UK: ebay.us/ud0LOe eBay USA: ebay.us/KRMNVm
A bluetooth 12V battery monitor (very useful): amzn.to/3YyIOWm
PPF film (Paint Protection Film) for covering handles: Amazon: amzn.to/43aHcEY
Jacking pucks (Just need to grind down the top nipple to make narrower) amzn.to/3YLyDgN
RainX spray to keep rain and dirt off your cameras, in order to minimise ADAS warnings
Plus RainX screen wash to do the same as above: amzn.to/497cxu2
A bluetooth shunt monitor (of current, voltage, accurate SOC on your 12V): amzn.to/4p9RWvk
Battery cabling and connectors for use with above: amzn.to/3Y3U8t8
For cheap diagnostics: Discount link for mucar bt200max OBD2 dongle (free software!): mythinkcar.com/?ref=fqunijit
A cheap (and I think better) way to have Carplay/AA, phone mirroring video’s etc, without subscription, use your phone for internet, by having a separate carplay screen so you still keep the main fisker screen: Buying Links for the EONON Portable-P4: amzn.to/4cXoxA1
Subscribe: youtube.com/subscribe_widget?p=comeinhandynow
The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take..
![How to Fix the BMW & MINI Steering Lock warning CHEAPLY!
Have you got the red warning light with steering wheel and padlock? It is common on BMWs and MINIs around 2007.
Do you want to spend a fortune at a main dealer or fix it yourself for under £15 ($20)?
This video shows how i fixed mine and how you can fix yours.
Here you can find people selling the interface cable that you will need on amazon uk:
https://amzn.to/2EB48if
And Amazon usa:
https://amzn.to/2qnevkO
I got mine from web site eobdtool.co.uk which came with a software disk.
There are also a lot on ebay.co.uk: https://ebay.us/AEe2bf
Or on ebay.com here: https://ebay.us/GWSSb4
You will also need a laptop or PC.
If the steering lock is actually failing, i.e. the warning keeps coming back after resetting the light then you can fit an emulator module which replaces the connections to the steering lock so that it will always look like the lock is working. The steering wheel says permanently in the unlocked state. This is just like later model year BMW/MINIs which dont have a steering lock any more.
Here are some links to find the emulator
On ebay uk: https://ebay.us/Mc2hNr
On ebay usa: https://ebay.us/VCL0LB
If yours is like mine, it is likely just an old battery getting a bit low in voltage causing the warning to come up, so resetting it is a good fix, and no emulator is required, but a new car battery is also recommended.
There are a lot of bmw owners out there with the same steering lock warning problem. Search for “inpa toolset32” and you will find a lot of discussion and sources for the things you need to fix it.
After a few months the warning light returned. It can be just reset again quickly, or you could do the next stage which is to strip down the steering lock, clean it up and hence speed it up so the warning stays away. Here is the video that I’ve just completed for that:
https://youtu.be/ymu1Y6OOULE
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Face mask:
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Similar ones on Amazon USA: https://amzn.to/2IHmip1
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Rubber disposible gloves are also useful, heres the links for
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The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take.
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