Uploaded March 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Product Page: woodpeck.com/solid-carbide-raised-land-mortise-and-tenon-bit.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=product-video&utm_campaign=raised-land-mortising-bits-03-2026
Ultra-Shear's new solid carbide Raised Land Mortise and Tenon Bits borrow most of their design from European mortising bits popular in the '70s and '80s. The "land" on a router bit (or drill bit) is the outer rim of the flute. Without getting too deep in the weeds, on a normal spiral bit, the cutting edge is the only part that touches the sidewall of the cut. That edge is formed by the primary bevel. A secondary bevel removes the back corner of the primary bevel and provides clearance as the edge rotates out of the cut.
On a raised land bit, the cutting edge is ground into the carbide blank with a skinny strip of the original curve left intact. Seeing that distinction – primary and secondary bevels vs. cylindrical land – requires keen eyesight or a magnifying glass…or possibly both.
The more obvious difference is the slow helix. While the cutting edge on a typical spiral bit wraps around the core somewhere between half way and a full revolution (depending on cut length), on these raised land mortising bits the edge goes about one-fourth of the way around on the longest cut length.
The European mortising bits we tested had a type of boring point. We skipped that and gave the end a square shoulder, making these bits ideal for cutting tenons, as well as mortises. If you're using a Multi-Router, PantoRouter, hand-held router or router table to machine mortise and tenon joints, there's no better choice.
Product Page: woodpeck.com/solid-carbide-raised-land-mortise-and-tenon-bit.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=product-video&utm_campaign=raised-land-mortising-bits-03-2026
Ultra-Shear's new solid carbide Raised Land Mortise and Tenon Bits borrow most of their design from European mortising bits popular in the '70s and '80s. The "land" on a router bit (or drill bit) is the outer rim of the flute. Without getting too deep in the weeds, on a normal spiral bit, the cutting edge is the only part that touches the sidewall of the cut. That edge is formed by the primary bevel. A secondary bevel removes the back corner of the primary bevel and provides clearance as the edge rotates out of the cut.
On a raised land bit, the cutting edge is ground into the carbide blank with a skinny strip of the original curve left intact. Seeing that distinction – primary and secondary bevels vs. cylindrical land – requires keen eyesight or a magnifying glass…or possibly both.
The more obvious difference is the slow helix. While the cutting edge on a typical spiral bit wraps around the core somewhere between half way and a full revolution (depending on cut length), on these raised land mortising bits the edge goes about one-fourth of the way around on the longest cut length.
The European mortising bits we tested had a type of boring point. We skipped that and gave the end a square shoulder, making these bits ideal for cutting tenons, as well as mortises. If you're using a Multi-Router, PantoRouter, hand-held router or router table to machine mortise and tenon joints, there's no better choice.
