Uploaded September 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 hour ago
The 1967 Mustang is back on the lift, and what started as a quick alignment turned into a complete power steering teardown. In this episode, Jeff Ford walks you through removing the steering box and the entire slave-cylinder (control valve) power steering system from a 1967 Mustang — the same setup you'll find on the 1967 Mercury Cougar.
Before we could rebuild anything, we had to deal with some world-class Fabricobble: a 19mm socket booger-welded to both ends of the steering shaft. Jeff shows you how to save the factory 1-inch double-D steering column, cut the butchered shaft out without wrecking it, and get the control valve, power ram, Pitman arm, and steering box out of the car cleanly.
In this video you'll learn:
• The two different 1967 Mustang steering shaft setups (long solid shaft vs. two-piece with rag joint) and why it changes how you pull the box
• Why Ford's slave-cylinder / control valve power steering feels "skatey" — and the caster trick that fixes it
• How to crack loose finicky fittings with a line wrench without goring them
• Which Pitman arm and tie rod pullers actually fit these systems (hint: 3/4" jaw)
• The one ball stud that, if it fails, takes your steering with it
☕ Want to support the show? Grab a t-shirt or jump on Patreon at the $10/month level for monthly Zoom hangouts and Trivia Night, where we give away custom shirts featuring YOUR car. Every shirt and pledge goes straight to Joseph and the editor who make these videos happen — not to Jeff.
T-shirts help pay Joseph, our teenage production assistant who's putting every dollar into his XJ Jeep. Grab one and you're funding a kid's first build.
Patreon at the $10 level gets you monthly Zoom meetings with Jeff plus Trivia Night, where the prize is a one-off t-shirt with YOUR car on it.
It's not a problem, it's a project.
—
▶ Autorestomod is proudly sponsored by National Parts Depot — [https://www.npdlink.com]
SUPPORT THE SHOW
▶ Patreon — $10/month gets you monthly Zoom meetings with me: [patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia]
▶ Merch — "Needs More Classic Cars" shirts, hats & mugs at Fourth Wall: [autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/]
Autorestomod Episode: 756
autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com
Sponsors:
nationalpartsdepot.com
eatondetroitspring.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia.
#ClassicCars #Mustang #FordMustang #AutoRestoMod #NPD
The 1967 Mustang is back on the lift, and what started as a quick alignment turned into a complete power steering teardown. In this episode, Jeff Ford walks you through removing the steering box and the entire slave-cylinder (control valve) power steering system from a 1967 Mustang — the same setup you'll find on the 1967 Mercury Cougar.
Before we could rebuild anything, we had to deal with some world-class Fabricobble: a 19mm socket booger-welded to both ends of the steering shaft. Jeff shows you how to save the factory 1-inch double-D steering column, cut the butchered shaft out without wrecking it, and get the control valve, power ram, Pitman arm, and steering box out of the car cleanly.
In this video you'll learn:
• The two different 1967 Mustang steering shaft setups (long solid shaft vs. two-piece with rag joint) and why it changes how you pull the box
• Why Ford's slave-cylinder / control valve power steering feels "skatey" — and the caster trick that fixes it
• How to crack loose finicky fittings with a line wrench without goring them
• Which Pitman arm and tie rod pullers actually fit these systems (hint: 3/4" jaw)
• The one ball stud that, if it fails, takes your steering with it
☕ Want to support the show? Grab a t-shirt or jump on Patreon at the $10/month level for monthly Zoom hangouts and Trivia Night, where we give away custom shirts featuring YOUR car. Every shirt and pledge goes straight to Joseph and the editor who make these videos happen — not to Jeff.
T-shirts help pay Joseph, our teenage production assistant who's putting every dollar into his XJ Jeep. Grab one and you're funding a kid's first build.
Patreon at the $10 level gets you monthly Zoom meetings with Jeff plus Trivia Night, where the prize is a one-off t-shirt with YOUR car on it.
It's not a problem, it's a project.
—
▶ Autorestomod is proudly sponsored by National Parts Depot — [https://www.npdlink.com]
SUPPORT THE SHOW
▶ Patreon — $10/month gets you monthly Zoom meetings with me: [patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia]
▶ Merch — "Needs More Classic Cars" shirts, hats & mugs at Fourth Wall: [autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/]
Autorestomod Episode: 756
autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com
Sponsors:
nationalpartsdepot.com
eatondetroitspring.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia.
#ClassicCars #Mustang #FordMustang #AutoRestoMod #NPD







![Why Does My Car Pull When Braking? The FREE Fix Nobody Talks About
A hard pull to one side under braking is one of the most unnerving problems a classic car can throw at you — and on this 1972 Mustang Mach 1, it was diving straight for the mailbox every time the pedal went down. The car tracked perfectly straight otherwise, which told Jeff Ford the trouble was living somewhere inside the front brake system.
In this episode, Jeff walks you through a real front-brake pull diagnosis the right way — no throwing parts at it and hoping. Starting with a simple infrared thermometer check (134°F on one rotor, 174°F on the other), he shows how a temperature spread points straight to a caliper that isnt fully retracting. From there its a methodical walk through the usual suspects: rotor condition, pad wear, brake hose pliability, and the sticking caliper itself — plus the dead-simple road test that got the brakes to equalize without a single new part going on the car.
If your classic pulls left or right under braking, this is the troubleshooting order that saves you money and gets you back on the road safely.
🔧 Also in this one: why were going with Porterfield R4S pads from the crew at Open Tracker Racing — race-compound pads specd to run a street rotor, low dust, and they bite hard even cold.
☕ Want to support the show? Grab a t-shirt or jump on Patreon at the $10/month level for monthly Zoom hangouts and Trivia Night, where we give away custom shirts featuring YOUR car. Every shirt and pledge goes straight to Joseph and the editor who make these videos happen — not to Jeff.
T-shirts help pay Joseph, our teenage production assistant whos putting every dollar into his XJ Jeep. Grab one and youre funding a kids first build.
Patreon at the $10 level gets you monthly Zoom meetings with Jeff plus Trivia Night, where the prize is a one-off t-shirt with YOUR car on it.
Its not a problem, its a project.
Www.opentrackerracing.com
Porterfield R4-S Street Performance Disc Brake Pads: PF-APD34-R4S
https://opentrackerracing.com/shop/porterfield-r4-s-disc-brake-pads-1968-1973-mustang-cougar/
—
▶ Autorestomod is proudly sponsored by National Parts Depot — [https://www.npdlink.com]
SUPPORT THE SHOW
▶ Patreon — $10/month gets you monthly Zoom meetings with me: [https://www.patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia]
▶ Merch — Needs More Classic Cars shirts, hats & mugs at Fourth Wall: [https://autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/]
Autorestomod Episode: 754
https://autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/
Sponsors:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia.
#ClassicCars #Mustang #FordMustang #AutoRestoMod #NPD Why Does My Car Pull When Braking? The FREE Fix Nobody Talks About](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bIfdeYEgvF4/mqdefault.jpg)


