Uploaded February 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
The general construction of this light is very typical of this style. An alloy housing with an area for a driver and a classic 30V power-LED.
I didn't originally plan on taking the driver apart, as it was potted in hard sand-filled compound, but curiosity got the better of me, and I spent a considerable time carefully removing the potting compound while identifying all the components.
The driver actually seems well-designed. It goes beyond the manufacturers datasheet for the driver chip, with several extra protection components. I tested the driver with no load and the output voltage was capped at 45.8V.
Sadly, this item's page on AliExpress is now showing a 404 message. Its description was:-
12V 20W COB LED Road street Lamp Pathway Street Light AC110-240V
It does at least show that you can modify the classic LED street lights to any voltage you desire with suitable drivers and LED arrays.
An interesting and very simple option for remote and very dark locations might be to fit one or two 10W LEDs wired internally as 3x3 (9V) and just use resistors to limit the current. Maybe even add a 12V PIR sensor.
If you enjoy my videos then the easiest way to support the channel is to subscribe for more good video content. But if you would like to contribute a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and gadgets to take apart, you can do so by supporting me on Patreon. I release videos without adverts for critique and feedback on Patreon as soon as they have been made. I also do Patreon live streams, which are much more relaxed and chatty than the busy public ones.
patreon.com/bigclive
Alternatively, for a single coffee contribution you can use PayPal:-
paypal.com/paypalme/bigclive
#ElectronicsCreators
The general construction of this light is very typical of this style. An alloy housing with an area for a driver and a classic 30V power-LED.
I didn't originally plan on taking the driver apart, as it was potted in hard sand-filled compound, but curiosity got the better of me, and I spent a considerable time carefully removing the potting compound while identifying all the components.
The driver actually seems well-designed. It goes beyond the manufacturers datasheet for the driver chip, with several extra protection components. I tested the driver with no load and the output voltage was capped at 45.8V.
Sadly, this item's page on AliExpress is now showing a 404 message. Its description was:-
12V 20W COB LED Road street Lamp Pathway Street Light AC110-240V
It does at least show that you can modify the classic LED street lights to any voltage you desire with suitable drivers and LED arrays.
An interesting and very simple option for remote and very dark locations might be to fit one or two 10W LEDs wired internally as 3x3 (9V) and just use resistors to limit the current. Maybe even add a 12V PIR sensor.
If you enjoy my videos then the easiest way to support the channel is to subscribe for more good video content. But if you would like to contribute a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and gadgets to take apart, you can do so by supporting me on Patreon. I release videos without adverts for critique and feedback on Patreon as soon as they have been made. I also do Patreon live streams, which are much more relaxed and chatty than the busy public ones.
patreon.com/bigclive
Alternatively, for a single coffee contribution you can use PayPal:-
paypal.com/paypalme/bigclive
#ElectronicsCreators

![Making a laser lumia/aura effects disk - with a slight silicone disaster
The Lumia or Aura effect is created by shining a laser through rippled glass, but it can be difficult to find the right glass, and someone who can cut a circle from it for you. This was an experiment to use a standard filament based 3D printer to create a silicone mould for optically clear resin.
This was my first attempt at creating a mould with liquid silicone. Apparently platinum-cured silicone is very fussy about what its used with, and my master shape was fine on its own, but when pre-textured with UV cured resin it prevented the silicone from curing in that area and caused an outgassing effect. Even with ordinary two-part resin the silicone still stayed slightly sticky where it was in contact.
In the end the answer was to use the 3D printed PLA mould on its own and add the effects onto the cast resin disks afterwards.
When using UV curing resin I strongly recommend wearing gloves to protect your hands from contact with it. The chemicals used to make it light sensitive can also make your skin sensitive to sunlight.
This is an experimental device. I dont know how the resin will hold up to specific wavelengths of laser energy. Its also probably limited to low power lasers for safety. The disk can also be used with various styles of LEDs for an aurora borealis effect.
For laser use the disk should rotate very slowly to get the best optical warping effects.
Heres the OpenSCAD script that creates your custom mould for this project.
There are two adjustable variables - one for the outer diameter of the disk and one for the central hub where it attaches to a suitable motor. The script will automatically place a small central indent for aligning a drill if needed.
OpenSCAD can be downloaded for Windows, Linux and Mac (plus others) from the official site:-
https://openscad.org/
To use the script, copy and paste it into the left hand editor window in openscad. You can either adjust the two variables directly in the script or you can enable the customizer that will open a window to do it.
If you want to use the customizer then you can open it from the window drop down menu.
To see the results of any changes quickly, press the cube-button with two arrows on it. To do the full build press the cube-button with the hourglass on it, and when it is complete, save the file by pressing the STL button.
That will save a design file that can be used in your choice of slicer for 3D printing.
The script is below:-
//Ripple disk mould maker
//Diameter of disk in mm
dia=75;
//Diameter of central hub in mm
hub=20;
difference(){
cylinder(h=12,d=dia+12);
translate([0,0,1])
cylinder(h=12,d=dia+10);
}
difference(){
union(){
cylinder(h=5,d=dia);
cylinder(h=7,d=hub);
}
//Central drilling indent
translate([0,0,5.5])
cylinder(h=2,d1=0,d2=3);
}
$fn=100; Making a laser lumia/aura effects disk - with a slight silicone disaster](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/5yNYqsbBkJM/mqdefault.jpg)








