Uploaded August 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 hour ago
There are two ways to cut with a router: conventionally, or by using a climb cut. Climb cuts can give you a very clean cut with minimal tearout, but they’re much more difficult to control. Instead of moving the router against the rotation of the bit, you’re moving it with the rotation. The spinning bit can grab the wood and suddenly pull the router forward.
The trick is to remove most of the material with a conventional cut, leaving about 1/16th of an inch, then come back with a very light climb cut to finish the edge.
The problem is leaving that tiny amount consistently. So I’ve got a couple simple tricks that make it easier.
The first way is to juggle router bearings. My chamfer bit came with a 3/8-inch bearing. I’ll replace it with a 1/2-inch bearing. That increases the diameter by 1/8th of an inch, leaving 1/16th of an inch of material behind. After making the conventional cuts, I’ll put the original bearing back on and finish with a light climb cut.
The second way also involves bearings. With the router upside down, this pencil represents 9 o’clock. I’ll drill a hole at about 10 o’clock in the base plate, sized for the bolt that fits through the bearings.
Stacking about three bearings works. I’ll run a bolt through them and lock everything down with a Bitner nut.
This won’t give you the same control as changing the bearing on the bit, but it gives you a reference point that makes it easier to leave material behind for the final climb cut.
Whatever you do, keep in mind that climb cutting generally isn’t safe on a router table.
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Tutor the Barbarian
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Bill Patterson
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There are two ways to cut with a router: conventionally, or by using a climb cut. Climb cuts can give you a very clean cut with minimal tearout, but they’re much more difficult to control. Instead of moving the router against the rotation of the bit, you’re moving it with the rotation. The spinning bit can grab the wood and suddenly pull the router forward.
The trick is to remove most of the material with a conventional cut, leaving about 1/16th of an inch, then come back with a very light climb cut to finish the edge.
The problem is leaving that tiny amount consistently. So I’ve got a couple simple tricks that make it easier.
The first way is to juggle router bearings. My chamfer bit came with a 3/8-inch bearing. I’ll replace it with a 1/2-inch bearing. That increases the diameter by 1/8th of an inch, leaving 1/16th of an inch of material behind. After making the conventional cuts, I’ll put the original bearing back on and finish with a light climb cut.
The second way also involves bearings. With the router upside down, this pencil represents 9 o’clock. I’ll drill a hole at about 10 o’clock in the base plate, sized for the bolt that fits through the bearings.
Stacking about three bearings works. I’ll run a bolt through them and lock everything down with a Bitner nut.
This won’t give you the same control as changing the bearing on the bit, but it gives you a reference point that makes it easier to leave material behind for the final climb cut.
Whatever you do, keep in mind that climb cutting generally isn’t safe on a router table.
Like step by step projects? Check out the second channel! → @makethingswithrob
Buy me a beverage! → buymeacoffee.com/makethings ←
Become a patron! → patreon.com/makethings ←
Huge thank you to my patrons that keep this thing going!
*MAKER TEAM*
Michelle B
Keith Current
Rich Lightfoot
Tutor the Barbarian
Aubrey G.
Nukebert
Sam W.
Aaron Knows DIY
G. Salazar
David B.
Marc B.
Richard B.
Ben. K
Bill Patterson
D. Lundman
Make Things
#MakeThings #mtbitesize
