Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain? Cobbler Bob 2026-09-21 | Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?
Shoe Showcase: Vintage Bostonians | vs AE | Dating Bostonians Robert Powers 2022-11-24 | This video features a pair of US made Bostonian "Impression" wingtip Oxfords made between the late 1980's and 1996. They were in phenominal condition when I purchased them for dirt cheap, and needed very little. Although Bostonians were popular, they never were as popular as Florshiems or Allen Edmonds, and were also not known for as high quality. I compare these shoes to a pair of modern Allen Edmonds McAllisters and a pair of Chesters from the 2000's. The results may surprise you. I also give some tips on approximately dating Bostonians based on the logo, model, and country of manufacture. 0:40 Intro & what the vintage Bostonian niche is1:21 Comparing these Bostonians to a current Allen Edmonds McAllister and a Chester from the 2000's2:44 Comparing the Bostonian Impression 12 3E sizing and last shape to the Allen Edmonds McAllister 65 Last 7:56 Why you might WANT Corrected Grain leather vs Full Grain (water test)9:12 Comparing style differences11:12 Results of the quick Corrected Grain vs Full Grain leather water test 15:50 Showing the Allen Edmonds Chester from the early 2000's 16:54 Cleaning up the Bostonian's corrected grain leather is easy17:32 Showing poor quality corrected grain leather17:55 Showing another nice pair of Bostonians19:21 Conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner23:12 Repairing the Aglet24:53 Mirror Shining the toes with Saphir Mirror Gloss27:36 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with black Saphir Mirror Gloss28:52 Putting a little neutral Kiwi polish on the bottom of the soles29:23 Removing the price in paint pen with Saphor Renomat29:55 Approximate dating the shoes34:45 The finished result and commentary on the fit/comfortSome links mentioned in the video:www.TheBrogueExchange.comwww.PurePolishProducts.comLink to Leather Talk Interview with Andy from Pure Polish: youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Shoe Showcase: Allen Edmonds McAllister vs Chester": youtu.be/B-JQ1OCLMSE"Bostonians: Thrifter’s Guide / New USA Shoes!": youtu.be/ekXNX4SN_x0Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library"Barrel Full of Sea Monkeys" by The Whole Other"75 Lower" by DJ Williams"Salgre" by Jimmy Fontanez - Media Rights Productions
Before & After: Allen Edmonds Park Ave Oxford Shine | Condition Robert Powers 2022-11-23 | This video features a pair of 10+ year old Allen Edmonds Park Avenue model #5875 cap toe Oxfords in the beautiful Merlot color that I purchased for $20. This is a classic example of full grain leather that looked terrible because it despirately needed conditioning moisturizer, but in fact was in very good shape and was an ideal candidate for bringing out a beautuful shine. 0:28 The before condition and inspection of the leather 1:18 A tip on when to replace Allen Edmonds Top Lifts (heels)2:24 What to do when your shoe trees aren't big enough3:17 Removing the laces3:44 Pro tip for laces if working on multiple shoes4:01 Simultaneously cleaning and conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner9:30 Brushing the conditioned uppers10:37 Polishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D'Or #8 Bordeaux cream polish12:25 Brushing off the polished uppers13:05 Burnishing the toes with black Medaille D'Or cream polish14:15 Mirror shining the toe caps with neutral Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss wax14:54 Stripping off the darkened toes17:04 Shining the heel counters17:22 Cleaning off the welt17:50 Using Saphir renomat to remove the price18:40 Shining the bottoms of the soles with Kiwi neutral paste wax19:51 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with black Saphir Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss paste wax20:18 Approximate dating the shoes based on the logo and insoles21:39 The finished result!24:14 Closing photos and outroAnother related video:"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes": youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eYPure Polish Products are available at:www.PurePolishProducts.comSaphir products are available at:www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.comMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"The Bywater" by The Mini VandalsMy eBay username: robertepowersMy username on www.TheBrogueExchange.com: Cobbler BobInstagram: robert_powers_Reddit: u/CobblerBob
Make-over: Come Thrifting with Us! Robert Powers 2022-11-04 | In this vlog you get to meet my good friend Zach, who is interested in improving his attire without spending a lot. Come tag along with us to see how much we can improve his wardrobe for under a hundred bucks!0:34 Meet Zach & why he wants to dress better?1:35 Measuring Zach’s feet3:07 Trying on a pair of Kilgore French & Stanbury quarter brogue Oxfords3:35 Reviewing the features of the KF&S shoes (they were featured in a past color change video)4:28 Meet my youngest daughter4:40 His outfit is already much improved just with decent shoes!4:46 Off to the thrift store: it’s a Numbers Game!5:48 My theory with finding really nice suits in thrift stores6:29 The best way to dress when shopping for new clothes6:55 What to do when the store’s dressing rooms are closed8:08 How we searched, what I look for8:53 A nice example of a $2,000 suit for $1009:15 A good day! $68 worth of finds!9:25 Showing what we found & the prices10:48 Romeo was happy to see us back10:59 Outfit #1: a light brown 3 button sport coat and khaki slacks11:32 Outfit #2: un-distressed jeans and the pink Chaps Oxford collar shirt11:50 Outfit #3: adding the HS&M suit jacket to outfit #212:20 Outfit #4: the HS&M suit with the pink Chaps shirt13:12 IMHO wearing nice suits are under rated today13:58 My closing thoughts with “before & after” photosLinks to other related videos:“Before & After: Color change on KF&S Full Grain Oxfords!”youtu.be/-Khdu70WsPEZach Gobah (artist name "Aq Xico") has written, recorded, and produced some of his own original music. Check it out here: Link to his YouTube page "Gobah":youtube.com/channel/UCLsy0RMrUJxfXug3X9pClNA"Aq Xico - Rise!":youtu.be/SHQpBgz4oFI"Aq Xico - Fall (feat. Kaysha Brown-Fox)":youtu.be/dSppeIM_UqgYouTube Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
How to Fix Cracked Shoe Polish - Double Burner method Robert Powers 2022-11-04 | This video shows you my preferred way to re-solidify carcked paste wax shoe polish while changing the composition the least. Applying too much heat, such as heating the tin directly with flame while un-covered can drive out the more volatile solvents within the wax, thus altering it's performance afterwards.My personal preferred brand of shoe polishes and conditioners are Pure Polish Products, available at www.PurePolishProducts.com.Saphir products can be purchased at Kirby Allison's website:www.KirbyAllison.comLink to The Elegant Oxford's website:www.TheElegantOxford.comHere's the video I referred to in the video (it was released August 2018 before I was introduced to Pure Polish Products):"Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head!":youtu.be/E5IrU5b7C2oMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz
Vintage Allen Edmonds scratch repair, heels, & shine! Robert Powers 2022-10-28 | This video features a pair of Allen Edmonds "Marlow" wingtip oxfords produced in 1991. Although they appeared to be in very good condition when I purchased them for $10 from a thrift store, they needed a bit of attention. As you'll see, the left toe had a deep cut, and the right shoe had a bunch of nicks and scrapes. I give them the full treatment, and also replace the original "Victory" Allen Edmonds heel top lifts with new rubber as they were about to wear into the heel base. I'll also go into detail about how I know these are a 1991 model year shoe. I compare and contrast the Marlow model to the current most similar model Allen Edmonds makes, the McAllister.0:33 Dating the shoe by the logo, features, date code, & AE catalogs3:08 The "before" condition (uppers, heels, and soles)3:48 2019 McAllister vs the 1991 Marlow differences8:17 Cleaning the uppers with Saphir Reno Mat9:55 Repairing the uppers by sanding for full grain leather, but not corrected grain12:24 Re-coloring the sanded spots with Fiebings Dard Red alcohol dye13:53 Burnishing the sanded and dyed areas with a wooden tool14:35 Moisturizing teh uppers with Pure Poilish Products Cleaner Conditioner16:33 Polishing with Pure Polish Products burgundy cream polish19:31 Filling some of the cuts/gouges with LM Products with LM Products LM Filler and LM Stop Crash repair kit26:30 Burnishing & polishing the repaired area again27:49 Burning off some loose threads28:08 darkening the repaired areas and the tips of the toes with Saphir Medaille D'Or black cream wax28:51 Another round of polish with Saphir Medaille D'Or Bordeaux cream polish30:38 Creating new top lifts from 5mm thick heeling rubber from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis, IA, USA32:09 Showing how Allen Edmonds constructs the heels and when exactly you should replace the top lift by32:38 Prepping, gluing, and attaching the new top lifts35:31 Shaping the top lifts on the belt sander & hand sanding to finish them36:22 Re-dying the edges of the heels with Simple Shine black edge dressing37:01 Waxing the edges of the heels with Saphir Medaille D'Or black Mirror Gloss wax38:10 Applying a Mirror Shine with Pure Polish Produts neutral High Shine Paste Wax40:44 The Finished Result! 43:13 Outro & creditsMusic Credits: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood2. "Whishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz3. "Way Out West" by Chris Haugen4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers5. "Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz6. "The Bywater" by The Mini Vandals
Cheap vs High End Shoe Polish - Is it Worth it? Robert Powers 2022-10-21 | This video compares a "cheap" readily available shoe polish, Kiwi, to a couple high end and more expensive shoe polishes from Saphir and Pure Polish Products. I was not sponsored nor paid by any of the companies to promote their products. The opinions about them are based on my personal experence with the products. The prices quoted in the video were accurate when this video was recorded, but of course, they may change at any time.0:36 Reference to "Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head", and why I'm only examining 3 polishes1:33: Kiwi polish ingredients3:30 Saphir Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss ingredients4:38 The Executive summary of my Kiwi vs Saphir video and why Pure Polish wasn't included5:14 Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax Polish ingredients6:28 Pure Polish vs Saphir: which do I personally prefer and why?8:45 Product smell test10:11 5 reasons I prefer high end products (Saphir or Pure Polish Products) over cheap products12:29 Some additional technical information from Andy, the owner of Pure Polish13:56 Closing remarksLinks to other relevant videos I mentioned:"Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head!":youtu.be/E5IrU5b7C2o"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2":youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9cMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Stuff" by Otis McDonald
ALL NEW Shoe Buy/Sell Platform Announced! Robert Powers 2022-10-14 | This video is an interview with the creator of a brand new peer-to-peer shoe buying and selling platform, similar to eBay, but with some very exciting differences, especially in the area of searchability and cost! Meet Brady Souther, hear his story, and his mission with this new platform. I will be joining soon and listing some shoes.Other related videos:I make a reference to Russel, the "Sartorial Chauffer" who was featured in Allen Edmonds' Fall 2022 catalog!"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2"youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcYwww.PurePolishProducts.comSpecial Thanks to Brady Souther! His info:www.TheBrogueExchange.comInstagram: @thebrogueexchange.comEmail: thebrogueexchange@gmail.com
Re-dye, crack removal, half soles, & heels on J&M Oxfords Robert Powers 2022-10-07 | This video documents the transformation of a pair of size 13D Johnston & Murphy "Heritage" Semi-brogue Oxfords (MAde in US, 270 degree Goodyear Welted) that I thrifted for $7.50 back in March of 2021, over 1.5 years ago. I started on them, but then gave up. I stripped them with acetone, and started sanding out the cracks in the vamps of the uppers. The cracking on the right shoe was far worse than I had initially realized, so I started filling them with Saphir Creme Renovatrice, a leather repair cream. This was my first major mistake... I used a light brown, which was the wrong color. I've learned since that you really cannot re-color Creme Renovatrice after adding it, but I was too impatient to purchase the correct color and wait for it to be shipped in. I also found that the leather on the vamp of the same right shoe wass wrinkling oddly and severely because of the deterioration. Lastly, the color in the vamps was now patchy & t didn't match the rest of the shoe, nor the other shoe. I didn't think it was salvageable, so I shelved them for over 1.5 years.The recent ascension of HRH King Charles III re-surfaced some old pictures of a couple pair of his black John Lobb cap toe Oxfords. These Oxfords have perfect mirror shined toe caps, but the vamps are cracked, and have 3 different patches sewed onto them! Here's an article:http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.com/2012/04/hrh-prince-charles-and-his-old-bespoke.htmlI realized my shoes are not in as bad condition as his, so they're still viable. I got re-interested in them, and gave them one more round of sanding on the right vamp. In hindsight, I would have defenitely used a different leather repair product, or at LEAST the correct color product. I think the final result is pretty decent! These shoes are unique. I don't recall seeing another pair adorned like these. Having broguing on the toe cap is not unusual, but the way the eyestays have a line of broguing along the trademark J&M "swan's neck" IS unusual. This unique broguing combined with the new mahogany color makes them unique and special in my wardrobe. Even though I'm a size 11.5 EE, they fit me quite well.They looked like they had rubber protective half soles applied at one time, then had them removed , then were walked on, so re-applying a new set of them was in order. The edges of the soles had "mushroomed" out, so I squared them up by sanding. The secondary reason to do this is to get the edge of the soles square, rather than rounded, to get good adhesion of the new rubber protective half soles. The top lifts had been replaced at some point with thicker ones, upsetting the heel balance. I replaced them with thinner rubber leather combo heels I created from 9-10 oz heeling leather & 5mm thick rubber sheet I purchased from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis (317) 636-8300 phone (the last time I checked, they had a Facebook page, but no website). The Pure Polish Products I used are available at:ww.PurePolishProducts.com0:30 The before condition1:15 Explanation of Cap toe vs Quarter Brogue vs Semi-brogue vs Full Brogue2:12 Soles condition2:54 Heel balance problem3:54 Creasing & cracking on the uppers4:35 Stripping the uppers with acetone6:45 How to learn to do a Patina/dye job7:52 Sanding out cracks 9:22 Spectator? Airbrushing the uppers. I tried for a tan & brown combo, but it didn't pan out. Again, this was in early 2021.11:27 Moistruizing uppers Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner12:16 "Time out" - why the 1.5 year gap, & how the coronation of HRH King Charles III re-sparked my interest14:53 Sanding sole edges & bottoms15:40 Polishing the uppers (I didn't record all of it) with PP & Saphir16:35 Creating leather-rubber combo heels from 9-10 oz leather ?& 5mm heeling rubber19:03 Sanding sole edges19:26 Trimming/sanding the heel breasts20:13 Cutting & gluing the 2mm thick rubber sheet (Chic brand)21:07 Trimming the rubber soles22:50 Polishing/brushing the sole and heel edges23:25 Removing some color from the toe caps & quarters24:54 Shining the uppers26:38 Problems w/ the right vamp & re-hydrating28:15 Mirror Shine with PP High Shine wax (with Tips!)36:20 Shining the heel counters36:40 Removing the paint penned price37:05 Polishing soles/heels37:35 The final result?39:05 Re-stripped the vamps and re-polished40:21 The REAL final result42:47 OutroOther relevant videos:"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0"rEVERSe Patina on Thrifted Allen Edmonds Woven Derby!"youtu.be/q5ShufO31AI"Why When & How to Condition Shoes! Calf & Shell Cordovan"youtu.be/Dh00wY0qjU8Music/Audio Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library & Mixkit.co"Again" by Density & Time"Salgre" (YouTube Audio Library, artist unknown)"Bluesed and Abused" by Quincas Moreira"75 Lower" by DJ Williams"Island Coconuts" by Aaron Kenny
Allen Edmonds NEWS! 2 NEW Product lines! Robert Powers 2022-09-30 | This video highlights 2 new lines of dress shoes, the Siena and the Lucca. I go over these lines, and why they are significant. And no, they are not some dress sneaker. I give a brief but detailed explanation in the viceo of the difference between Goodyear Welted and Blake Stitched shoe construction as it's relevant to the new product offerings.
rEVERSe Patina on Thrifted Allen Edmonds Woven Derby! Robert Powers 2022-09-23 | This video documents creating a "Reverse Patina" on a pair of Allen Edmonds "Lauderdale" woven leather derbies. I found these shoes at a local thrift store for $45 in excellent condition, but I felt that the two-tone brown just needed and update. 0:26 Showing the shoes, size and condition 1:05 Dating the shoes by de-coding the date code and logos 2:33 1987 vs 2001 shoes sole stitching diffrence 2:54 The sole and heel wear & my plan for these shoes 4:50 Removing the laces & Stripping the shoes with Acetone & cotton balls 8:33 Airbrushing the uppers with Fiebings tan mixed with medium brown, and then some black. 12:09 The result of the airbrushing and a great tip for conditioning leather 13:01 Conditioning the uppers with Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing 16:19 Round two of conditioning with Saphir Renovateur (Mink oil based conditioner) 18:00 Shining the uppers with Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish 19:36 Brushing the uppers 21:08 How to Mirror Shine the toe caps with Pure Polis Products High Shine Paste Wax Polish. I provide a lot of Mirror Shining tips and tricks through this part 28:34 An example of the perfect time to add a drop of water 29:12 What to check if you keep getting stratches in the mirror shine 31:50 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with Kiwi black paste wax 32:55 Removing the price in paint pen from the sole 33:17 Shining the soles 33:40 The finished result! 37:23 Closing still shots, outro, & credits Other related videos: "How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes" youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1" youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY "Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2": youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio Pure Polish Products website" www.PurePolisProducts.com Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library "Bark" by Jon Deeley and the 41 Players "Lucky Rubber Duckey" by Quincas Moreira "Palms" by Text Me Records / Bobby Renz "Sunny Over the Horizon" by Rage "Walking in Line" by Freedom Trail Studio
NOS Bostonian $7 | Vingtage Florsheim $5 | J&M Shine Robert Powers 2022-09-16 | This video documents helping a buddy get his business footwear in order: 2 pairs of shoes I thrifted, and a re-shine on his daily wear shoes. I thrifted a pair of burgundy Bostonian corrected grain cap toe quarter brogue Oxfords probably from the 2000's in unworn condition for $7.50, and a pair of Florsheim wingtip loafers from the 1980's for $5. I also saddle soaped, conditioned, and shined his Johston & Murphy semi brogue Oxfords that he wears often. The vintage Florsheims get a new pair of top lifts for the heels.0:44 The 1st pair of shoes: my friend's tan Johston & Murphy semi-brogue Oxfords that need a good cleaning & shine1:21 Showing the J&M's false/cosmetic sole stitching1:51 Pair #2: a pair of Bostonian "Classics" quarter brogue Oxfords with Blake Stitched soles in New Old Stock condition2:43 Pair #3: a pair of vintage Florsheim wing tip loafers probably made in 1987 featuring Goodyear Welted construction4:41 Which pair are better, the NOS corrected grain Bostonians, or the full grain leather Florsheims? And why the answer isn't so simple6:30 Three Simple rules for taking basic care of shoes6:56 Saddle soaping the J&Ms8:03 Saddle soaping the Florsheims9:02 Conditioning the J&Ms with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner 12:18 Conditioning the vintage Florsheims with PP Cleaner Conditioner15:54 Conditioning the NOS Bostonian Oxfords16:08 Applying a little PP High Shine paste wax to the toe caps of the Bostonians17:58 Brushing off then polishing the J&Ms with PP Water Resistant Cream Polish19:12 Applying PP Burgundy cream polish to the vintage Florsheims20:05 Brushing off the J&Ms20:21 Applying a couple coats of PP High Shine Paste Wax to the toes of the J&Ms20:33 Brushing off the Florsheims20:54 Back to the toe caps of the J&Ms21:11 PP High Shine paste wax for the toes of the Florsheims21:24 Repairing a small tear in the Florsheims with Saphir Creme Renovatrice23:04 Replacing a missing tassel on the Florsheims27:39 Replacing the rubber top lifts on the Florsheims with a pair of Vibram leather rubber top lifts left over from another job32:41 Sanding down the edges of the new top lifts38:38 Trimming the edges of the leather portion of the new top lifts34:40 Finishing the heel breast35:11 Adding brass nails to the leather portion of the top lifts37:40 Re-coloring the edges of the heels on the Florsheims38:05 Re-coloring the uppers where I damaged them sanding38:17 Burnishing the raw eges of the leather top lifts40:04 Cutting out new padding for the insoles for the Florsheims41:18 The Florsheims finished41:57 The finished result: All 3 pairs finished up43:14 Outro and closing still shotsPure Polish Products website: www.purepolishproducts.comSaphir products are available at www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.comI believe this is the leather working tools kit my wife bought for me:eBay item #124437839300 - It's cheap, but I only use mine once or twice a month, so it's fine for home use. For Saphir products go to www.kirbyallison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.comOther relevant videos:"How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching!"youtu.be/-oRWEzvoVe8"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
$350 Suit for $11! | How to Prep a New Suit for 1st Wear Robert Powers 2022-09-09 | This video features 2 articles I purchased for $18.66 with tax from a local Goodwill store. The greyish blue 2 button suit is a new Jones New York suit still with the original tags on it for $10.99. The Sport Coat is a 100% wool Lauren Ralph Lauren jacket, made in Canada, that I purchased for $6.49. I altered the Jones New York slacks in the waist myself, and did nothing to the coat. I may get the collar adjusted by a professional to get rid of the slight rolls between my shoulder blades/neck area at some point. The original tags on the suit show the full retail price of $350, but I'd call it a $250 suit, as most would not pay full retail price. The suit is medium quality, being machine made, and using a 76% polyester, 21% Viscose, 3% spandex material. It will serve as a great "workhorse" suit in my wardrobe, meaning it's a suit I can wear on days where I will be very active and/or may get it dirty. This way it will help keep the wear off of my more expensive higher quality suits, but I can still look sharp as the fabric and fit look nice.0:30 Showing the Lauren Ralph Lauren sport coat 1:30 Showing the Jones New York suit3:04 6 inch drop in a suit explained3:59 Showing how the Jones New York suit fits as purchased4:12 close-up of the fabric pattern5:42 Tips on how to find great items thrifting10:44 The LRL jacket shown paired with a few different slacks12:09 Letting out/tailoring the waist of the suit slacks17:47 Ironing out the old creases18:25 How to prep a new suit: removing the tags, and opening the vents and pockets19:27 A close-up of the original $350 Jones New York price tag21:27 The final result22:14 Outro & closing still shotsOther relevant videos:"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2":youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 2/2"youtu.be/PIenM1qARYE"How To Spot A Quality Suit - Hallmarks of Expensive Bespoke Suits For Men - Gentleman's Gazette":youtu.be/88X5kL7Gn5A"Suit Up! The 10 GOLDEN Rules To Buying A Suit (With Style)" RMRS:youtu.be/FroveScaTqw"Ranking Men's RTW Suits (54 BEST and WORST Menswear Brands!)"youtu.be/-ZaF54ux5N0"Suit Lingo & Terminology Explained I - Lapels, Gorge, Stance, Belly..."youtu.be/0bCfVJE-EcwMusic Credit: "Wishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz from YouTube Audio LibraryThank you for watching! Please leave a comment below and consider subscribing. I will be releasing all of my future videos on Fridays at 5:00 PM EST. I generally release a couple, sometimes 3 videos a month.
Tailoring my First Double Breasted Suit! Only $15! Robert Powers 2022-08-12 | This video features a Savoy Square suit that I thrifted for only $15! It's a double breasted 4 - 2 button wool suit with peak lapels, pleated pants, and no cuffs. It's kind of an interesting suit, and other than the waist being too tight, it fits me like it's already been tailored for me! I do a simple alteration in this video to let out the slacks about 2-1/4".0:29 Reviewing the suit1:15 How to tell if the Jacket body length is correct?2:27 How to tell if the shoulders of a jacket fit ?3:00 Getting clues as to the jacket materials and build quality4:02 My goal: to add 2 to 2-1/2" to the waist4:22 Showing the let out / "The Aspiring Gent" / ripping the seam7:07 Marking the fabric to add in 1-1/8" to each side (2-1/1" total)8:80 Setting up the sewing machine9:43 Sewing up the back seam from the inside12:27 Showing the result & the pleated pants but no cuffs13:07 Ironing out the creases from the old seam13:51 Reattaching the belt loop14:48 The finished result!16:05 The finished suit with the jacket on16:44 Closing shots & Outro
How to Buy Your 1st Nice Shoes Robert Powers 2022-08-05 | If you're tired of wearing cheap looking shoes that fall apart rapidly and want to step up your shoe game, this video will help you figure out what to buy. I break it down into 3 categories of people, depending on what level of effort for their care you're willing to put forth, and how nice of a shoe you want.0:32 The reason for this video1:05 (A) The "Average Joe" defined1:40 (B) The "Businessman" defined1:58 (C) The "Connioseur" defined2:18 Tip #1 What not to do2:34 What are the 1st 3 shoes to buy?4:28 (A) Average Joe: what construction features to look for?6:25 (A) Why you should NOT get the good leather? (LEATHER TEST)9:16 The difference in heels of cheap vs nice shoes10:16 (B) The Businessman: some shoe choices13:33 3 Rules for Full Grain shoe care13:50 Shoe rotation15:55 (A) Average Joe: Examples of what to buy 17:13 (B) Businessman on a BUDGET: Examples of what to buy 19:25 (B) Businessman choices: Allen Edmonds25:00 Some chioces for (B) the Businessman or (C) the Connioseur: 27:45 Summary (feek free to screen shot)Music credit: YouTube Audio Library"Gypsy Dance" by Topher Mahr & Alex Elena
Marbled Blue Patina on TWO Allen Edmonds! Robert Powers 2022-07-30 | This video features TWO pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes that get stripped and a Marbled Blue Patina applied to. My friend Hayden bought a new full price pair of Walnut Park Avenues that he stripped to bare leather. I bought a nearly new pair of Carlyle plain toe Oxforfds (size 14D) at a local thrift store to practice on first. Watch us bumble our way through two pairs of shoes, and achieve what I think is a decent end result.0:50 The real objective to dying the thrifted Carlisles1:23 Showing the Allen Edmonds Carlyle plain toe Oxfords2:23 Stripping the finish off of the Carlyles with Acetone3:29 Re-introducing Hayden & his brand new AE Park Avenue cap toe Oxfords4:57 Dying the base color on the Carlyles6:20 Explaining adding the marbling7:40 Adding the marbling/musem finish on the Carlyles. This is the experimenting and learning process.14:10 Moisturizing the shoes with Saphir Renovatuer (mink oil based)20:04 The initial result - what did we learm, what do we need to fix?21:55 "Fixing" and evening up the difference between the shoes, and adding more marbling with acetone23:20 A second review of the result & more evening them up25:19 Polishing the Carlyles with Pure Polish Neutral Cream Polish26:06 cleaning the paint pen off the heels26:26 Brushing off the Carlyles27:06 re-coloring the edges of the soles & heels with Saphir #37 Medium Brown Medaille D'Or Cream Polish27:27 Adding the Mirror Shine with Pure Polish Products High Shine Paste Wax27:51 Starting on Hayden's new AE Park Avenues & how he stripped them28:54 Hayden's goal with the shoes29:34 Spraying on the Fiebings Light Blue base color diluted 1:1 with alcohol31:38 Adding additional burnishing to the toes of the PA's32:19 Showing the difference after moisturizing one shoe and conditioning the other shoe33:24 Experimenting with different materials to add the marbling34:46 Adding the marbled "Musem" finish to the PA's with a trimmed fairly dry cotton dauber with Fiebings Navy dye and some acetone37:55 Dying the soles with Fiebings Turquoise and Purple39:00 Conditioning the uppers again and the soles 39:22 Touch-ups39:33 Polishing the PA's with Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish40:50 Brushing off the PA's41:28 Mirror shining the toes with Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax42:05 The finished results on both pairs45:26 Hayden's PA's paired with one of his made to measure Savile Lane 3 piece suits. Note: Hayden has lost weight since the suit was made.47:55 Closing photos and outroBlue Leather Dye guide:For a true light blue use Fiebings "Turquoise"For a medium blue use Fiebings "Light Blue", and you may need to dilute itFor a Navy blue that will appear black in lower light, use Fiebings "Navy Blue"Fiebings Purple is very purpleOther related videos:"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes":youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY"Before & After: My 1st Museum Patina!"youtu.be/81j8nLnKV6EPreston Soto's The Elegant Oxford video "Marble Patina Tutorial: An Artistic Flair for Your Dress Shoes":youtu.be/oP80oDyMkM4Link to 10mL "5Pcs Refillable Atomizer Perfume Spray Glass Empty Bottle Travel Portable Pump"ebay.com/itm/154144010178?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rombu6natdm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=zgXegjhwQx6&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYAlberto Suastez "Patina Works Arizona" his instagram:@PatinaWorksAZMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Like You MEan It" by Dan Lebowitz"221B Baker Street" by Hanu Dixit"Wolf Kisses" by Otis McDonald"Again" by Density & Time"Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz"Calluses II" by William Rosati
Cobbler Union Shoe Fitting for my WIDE feet? Robert Powers 2022-07-22 | This video documents a live in-person trip I made to purchase a pair of Cobbler Union shoes. Cobbler Union has only one physical location in the USA, in Atlanta Georga, which is 700 miles from home for me. They don't actually produce any shoes outside of the standard D width, so if you have wide feet like I do, and cannot get to the physical store, purchasing the correct width Cobber Union shoes can be challenging. This video will help you understand their different lasts, and which ones will be best for different feet shape. Come shop for a pair of shoes with me!**UPDATE** The video states that I would receive my shoes in late September of 2022. I was informed that there is a dalay, and it would be late October of 2022 instead. I'll do an unboxing video ASAP!0:34 Who is Cobbler Union & what features do they offer?4:44 A look at CU's Goodyear Welting construction6:25 How does CU fit shoes for me online?7:25 What is a "Last"?8:15 What is a Brannock Device, and how do you use it?10:52 Tips for correct shoe sizing11:29 Choosing CU shoes fit compared to other brands, such as Allen Edmonds 65 Last13:30 The 3 golden rules for purchasing shoes such that they're still returnable as new.14:50 What kind of shoe I'm shopping for15:40 The "Adelaide" size 12D in museum cognac & explanation of the 358 Last.20:49 Explanation of the ball of the foot, the instep, and forefoot & what kind of foot I have.22:05 The "Adelaide" size 12.5D on the 888 Last24:00 The 888 Last size 12.5 vs Allen Edmonds 65 Last size 11.5 3E and the 358 size 12D vs the 888 size 12.5D25:00 The "Alex UR" Long Wing Blucher, 312 Last size 12D28:10 Showing the Winston UR wingtip Oxford on the 312 Last30:30 The "Francis" on the Louvre last, sizes 12.5D and 13D33:15 Explanation of the 357 Last and some future changes35:05 The "Richard" cap toe Oxford in marbled museum Oxblood on the City Last, size 12.5D35:59 Comparing the heel on the 270 Goodyear Welt vs 360 Goodyear Welt37:50 "Does it bring you joy?" (Marie Kondo)38:32 The "William" semi-brogue Oxford on the City Last, size 12.5D in cognac calf40:17 A SUMMARY of the BEST CU Lasts for WIDE FEET (to Screenshot)41:08 The 358 Last vs the City Last feature differences: narrowed fiddlebaqck waist, beveled waist42:21 A tour of the shoes in their showroom44:20 My final shoe selection revealed44:40 A close pass of 6 different styles I tried on45:11 A closer look at the shoe I purchased46:46 Summary & closing comments48:26 Future video release schedule & OutroMy apologies for the less than perfect audio quality. The audio was difficult to capture because of the open room with brick walls, and I know it would be better if I had better equipment.Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library"Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov"Other relevant videos:"Cobbler Union Visit - New "Affordable Luxury" shoes"youtu.be/PItB6OSXGZI"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0gThis video is marked as having a paid promotion because according to YouTube's rules, a paid promotion includes "pieces of content that are created for a third party in exchange for compensation. This content is also where the third party's brand, message, or product is integrated directly into the content." I was not compensated by Cobbler Union for this video, but I was given a discount on my own purchase.
J&M Shoe Package Giveaway (Surprising Result!) Robert Powers 2022-06-23 | This video documents the result of the Shoe Giveaway I announced in my March 8th 2022 video "Dying a BELT to match my Custom Patina Shoes". I felt the giveaway was actually a complete flop from a business strategy standpoint as I explain in the video, but it the outcome ended up being very positive and quite touching!The original givewaway announcement was at 14m 46s into this following video:"Dying a BELT to match my Custom Patina Shoes":youtu.be/4cdzNpzldN0"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3":youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 2/3":youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 3/3":youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKwMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Fond Memories" by SYBS
Why When & How to Condition Shoes! Calf & Shell Cordovan Robert Powers 2022-05-23 | This video is a detailed guide that will help you understand: 1. WHY you should condition your leather shoes 2. WHEN (how often) you should condition them3. HOW you should condition them, including which kind of products you may want to use. I cover the two MAJOR conditioning mistakes you'll want to avoid. Of course, I have my favorites products, but what this video does NOT cover is which specific products you should personally use. I believe it's more important that you condition them at the appropriate times, and in the appropriate manner, than which exact product you should use. There are at least a dozen leather conditioning products I didn't even mention here, and several I have used (like Shoe MGK and Kiwi Leather Lotion) that I have used and chose not to include in the video. 0:30 – Intro & my disclaimer 1:06 – Why to condition your shoes 2:00 – A list of a few different conditioning products with some comments on each of them 2:05 – Tanner’s Blend byAshland Leather Co3:13 - Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing by Lexol3:43 - Renovateur by Saphir4:28 – Bick 4 Leather Conditioner by Bickmore5:13 – Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner by Pure Polish6:05 – #1: Light conditioning leather with cream shoe polish (AE Park Avenues & Pure Polish Cream Polish) 9:47– #2: Standard conditioning with Conditioner (AE Strands & Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner) 14:41 – The 2 MAJOR MISTAKES people make when conditioning leather 17:08 – Shining up the Strands by brushing after conditioning 18:25 – #3: Heavy Conditioning with multiple rounds of Conditioner (AE Cornwallis with Patina) 20:18 – #4: Cleaning & heavy conditioning with multiple rounds of Conditioner (Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial 93605’s) 21:58 – Using Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner with a Cloth to clean and condition 29:04 – Using Pure Polish with my finger to condition 30:00 – Brushing off the shoes after the Pure Polish 30:52 – Using Bickmore Bick 4 to condition 31:37 – Brushing off the shoes after the Bick 4 32:04 – Using Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing 34:05 – Brushing off the shoes after Lexol35:21 – Understanding why this is not an exact science 37:16 – Closing comments & outro Other related videos: "Leather Talk with Andy from Pure Polish":youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1" youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY "Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?" youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE "Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?" (it's one of my earlier videos, so the graphics are a little cheesey): youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0 "Before & After: My 1st Museum Patina!" (The AE Cornwallis video): youtu.be/81j8nLnKV6E "Which Polo Ralph Lauren shoes are Best?": youtu.be/fg9v3V1t6AI "Repairing Cracked Leather Polo Shoes": youtu.be/SrRYxK9s9lk Some links: www.PurePolishProducts.com for Pure Polish Products www.AshlandLeather.com for Ashland Leather Co products www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.com for Saphir products Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library: "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
New Allen Edmonds Review: Were 1980s-2000s Better? Robert Powers 2022-05-20 | In this video we review a brand-new pair of Allen Edmonds "Park Avenue" cap toe Oxfords in walnut, purchased in April of 2022. We go over the shoes with a "fine toothed comb" for any quality control issues, defects, and flaws. I also compare them to a pair of Fifth Avenues made in 1987, a pair of Park Avenues from 2001, a pair of McAllisters from 2017, and a pair of MacNeil 2.0 from 2019 to see if from this small sample size, can we see that quality had declined?In my opinion, Allen Edmonds may be making more mistakes or letting shoes out with errors that they shouldn't, but I think the problem is most likely exaggerated because of the microscope effect of social media.Other related videos:"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eYThis is the other video with Hayden that I referred to. I released it July of 2018 featuring a pair of Allen Edmonds:"My Allen Edmonds have a spot that won't shine?!"youtu.be/Dmx7dJm-j9MMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
How to Stay COOL in DRESS Clothes Robert Powers 2022-05-19 | This video will give you concrete tips on how to choose men's dress attire that will help you stay cooler in hot weather. I will examine materials and the differences in shirts, slacks, and sport coats/suit coats. This is not an all-inclusive video, but rather basic instructions on common styles and materials.0:28 - Introduction to content & explanation of 1st test1:51 - Test #1 - Polyester blend slacks & result2:24 - Test #2 - Wool slacks & results3:10 - More in-depth explanation of Thermal Conductivity4:31 - Thermal conductivities data of various fabrics from TextileStudyCenter5:58 - The two pairs of slacks color compared side by side6:24 - What kind of dress shirts to wear8:06 - The Master Roll (I learned this from Real Men Real Style)9:36 - A brief overview of what kind of Sport Coats and Suit Jackets to get10:25 - What is Bemberg?12:04 - What can we learn from how people dress in the Middle East to stay cool13:44 - Summary - 5 tips to stay cool15:22 - Outro and closing shotsMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library"Beech Disco" by Dougie WoodOther related videos:"Buying a NICE suit for under $300? / Why pay for Tailoring?":youtu.be/DJ-Wps6QgBEReal Men Real Style channel "How To Roll Up Shirt Sleeves - 3 Ways To Fold Mens Dress Shirt Sleeve - Male Style Advice":youtu.be/s6rvFKbRuuA"Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits":youtu.be/z3abMoo0gQc
Before & After: My 1st Museum Patina! Robert Powers 2022-05-17 | In this video I re-finish a pair of Allen Edmonds Cornwallis Adelaide Oxfords that I picked up thrifting. This is my first attempt at a museum patina. The real purpose of doing this is not just to make the shoes look nice, but it's practice for a new pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenues I will be doing a blue/dark blue museum patina on in the near future.0:38 – A piece of fan mail!1:52 – Reviewing the condition of the Allen Edmonds Cornwallis Adelaide Oxfords 4:11 – An educated guess on when these shoes were produced, and when they were re-crafted5:18 – The game plan for the shoes5:50 – Showing a new product “LM Filler”. I wound up no needing it for these shoes, so I’ll review it in a later video.7:00 – The apron with my logo embroidered onto it (by Blonde Lobster Embroidery in Stow, OH)8:01 – Step 1 – stripping the shoes with Saphir Renomat10:38 – Step 2 - Sanding the cracks and surface damage out with 220 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit13:00 – Step 3 – Stripping the uppers with Acetone14:19 – Introducing Hayden and the reason I’m doing a blue museum patina on the Cornwallis’s16:10 – Step 4 – Airbrushing the blue base color18:20 – Notes/lessons from the airbrushing19:39 – Step 5 – Adding the “Museum” effect24:25 – More lessons from adding the Museum effect28:04 – Step 6 – Conditioning the uppers with Saphir Renovateur (mink oil based conditioner)29:36 – Step 7 - Brushing the uppers with a horse hair brush30:04 – Step 8 - Polishing & additional conditioning to the uppers with Saphir and Pure Polish Cream Polish31:55 – Step 9 – Brushing the uppers again32:18 – Step 10 – Adding a Mirror Shine to the toes with Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax Polish & a Pure Polish mirror shining cloth34:00 – The final result and my self-critique/”next time I will” list38:08 – Still shots indoors and outdoors and outro/creditsThank you Walter Ferek for the Apron!Related videos:Preston Soto of The Elegant Oxford's video "Marble Patina Tutorial: An Artistic Flair for Your Dress Shoes":youtu.be/oP80oDyMkM4"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes":youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes":youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY2 videos explaining Corrected Grain vs Full Grain leather:1. "High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!:youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM2. "Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0- Note: #2 is an older video with poorer video production quality.The first video Hayden was in: "My Allen Edmonds have a spot that won't shine?!":youtu.be/Dmx7dJm-j9M"How I put a Patina on my old Bostonian Loafers"youtu.be/o3eGg9N_sRwGo to www.PurePolishProducts.com for polishes, waxes, conditioners, and shine cloths, or to www.TheElegantOxford.com or www.KirbyAllison.com for Saphir products.Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Beach_Disco" by Dougie Wood2. "Wishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz3. "Way Out West" by Chris Haugen4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
Come Thrifting with me! $5 Jacket/Florsheim 93605/Oxxford Robert Powers 2022-05-09 | This video was made in May of 2022 and documents a day at a few thrift stores. I highlight 3 items I purchased for myself, as well as 2 items I didn't:0:35 - Introduction / Explanation1:17 - Hart Shaffner & Marx blue pinstriped suit - what features makes it worth buying; est retail cost3:11 - Oxxford Grey pinstriped suit features & full retail cost5:00 - Baumler (Romanian) medium quality jacket, nearly new for $5, showing the features/construction: is it high quality?9:00 - The Baumler jacket shown paired with several different shirt/slacks combinations11:22 - Vintage Florsheim Imperial 93605 Shell Cordovan Long Wing Bluchers size 12C that will become a new project that I will document.13:35 - A cool casual collared shirt adorned with patterned fabric for $8.15:13 - How do you find stuff like this? What's the "secret"?16:18 - Outro / CreditsOther related videos:"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2" (2 Parts, link to 1 of 2):youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3" (3 Parts, link to 1 of 3):youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0"$300 Made to Measure Coat for $40!":youtu.be/Z2qLsgoTdto"Buying a NICE suit for under $300? / Why pay for Tailoring?":youtu.be/DJ-Wps6QgBE"DIY Tailoring a 3-Piece Suit at Home!":youtu.be/ZSEtLDvQ13EMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Beach Disco" by Dougie WoodMy Instagram: @robert_powers_ Thank you for Watching!
DIY Tailoring a 3-Piece Suit at Home! Robert Powers 2022-04-17 | This video documents my 2nd attempt at tailoring at home. I thrifted a nearly new Statement Italian 3-piece suit that was quite a bit too big in the legs and around the chest, and the body was too long. This time I reduced the chest size, reduced the length of the body of the jacket, and I took a lot of material out of the legs. I learned how to do all of this from Louis Geramita's YouTube channel "Aspiring Gent".0:30 - "Staying in my lane" & my philosophy1:03 - Analyzing the quality of the Statement suit2:24 - The "before" jacket fitment4:07 - The "before" slacks fitment4:28 - Pinning & marking the excess slacks material5:50 - Disassembling the slacks cuffs and opening the seam & transferring the marks to the inside fabric8:13 - Restitching along the new marks9:42 - Taking a first look at my work on the slacks10:27 - Taking in the other leg12:10 - Moving the rear crease and ironing flat the new seam12:59 - Sewing the cuffs back up14:02 - Pinning the side of the jacket14:40 - Marking the side panel to take in15:28 - Opening up the bottom and side of the jacket & transferring the marks to the inside material16:11 - Closing the shell side panel along the new marks, removing the excess material, and closing up the lining17:12 - Shortening the bottom of the jacket 19:57 - Trying on the jacket with one side taken in and shortened20:31 - Showing some of the details of the construction of the side panels and lining attachment21:06 - Closing up the new bottom hems21:34 - Taking apart the side seam of the other side22:27 - Pinning the second side vent alteration23:39: Major mistake #224:13 - Reattaching the lining and closing up the side vent26:30 - Finishing closing the shortened jacket bottom seam29:14 - The final result! The good, bad, and the ugly...31:56 - Outro & closing shotsHere are Louis's referenced Videos:"DIY Suit Coat Sliming Tutorial | No More Boxy Suit"youtu.be/e0dWPIq8s7s"Taking In The Crotch Seam | Slimming Your Pants"youtu.be/sQoWwhAPeUISee The Gentleman's Gazette" for a pleathora of good suit/jacket videos:youtube.com/user/thegentlemansgazetteMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library & Free Music Public Domain:1. "Pondering Madly" by The Lemming Sheppards2. "Be A King (M.W.D. Remix)" by Metaharmoniks3. "Brahma (Artner Remix) by Metaharmoniks4. "Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov5. "75 Lower" by DJ Williams
First time Tailoring a Jacket Myself Robert Powers 2022-03-30 | In this video I document the process of taking 3 inches (7.6 cm) of fabric out of the chest are via the side seams of an Austin Reed for Dillard's wool half canvass sport coat. This is my first attempt at altering a sport coat. I got the majority of the information to do this from a young man Louis Geramita who runs a YouTube channel called "The Aspiring Gent". He's pretty amazing so check his channel out! Here's the specific video:"DIY Suit Coat Sliming Tutorial | No More Boxy Suit"youtu.be/e0dWPIq8s7sHere's a link to his channel home page:youtube.com/channel/UCqVoIDHg6fTmL2O_Sa09wOw0:35 - The "before" of the jacket & pinning the excess4:32 - Showing the side seam that I am doing the adjustment on and marking it with tailor's chalk.6:18 - Showing the jacket details and opening up the bottom lining seam to turn it inside out8:40 - Showing the half canvass construction10:06 - The seam marked on the inside10:29 - First (unsuccessful) attempt at sewing up the seam12:14 - Mentally regrouping after my first error14:06 - Re-pinning & marking the jacket more carefully15:23 - Measuring the marks16:08 - Transferring the marks to the inside of the jacket16:53 - Second attempt (and second mistake) at sewing the seam18:37 - Putting in a new Bobbin & resetting the machine19:05 - The result of the first seam being sewn!19:29 - Showing the result of the first seam adjustment with the jacket on20:04 - Measuring (&sewing) the other side)21:14 - Trying it on with both seams sewn21:41 - Removing the stitching from the original seam & ironing the area flat again22:55 - Trying the ironed jacket on before sewing the liner back on23:29 - Reattaching the lining24:20 - The final results and an examination of the result, both good and bad27:15 - Before & After and more thoughts on how to do better next time27:37 - Bloopers reel27:50 - OutroMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov2. "Bluesed and Abused" by Quincas Moreira
Dying a BELT to match my Custom Patina Shoes Robert Powers 2022-03-08 | This video shows me stripping a Cole Haan full grain leather belt, then taking navy blue and tan Fiebings alcohol dye and re-dying it to try and match the coloring on my John McHale Florsheim Imperials that had a custom reverse copper patina done on them in my last video. 1:00 Before on the Cole Haan belt2:53 The Patina on the shoes I'm trying to match3:35 Stripping the belt with acetone (I purchased it at a thrift store for $4)6:39 What is a Patina? What is a Reverse Patina?8:08 A little bit too little is better than a little bit too much (2 examples)8:37 Starting the dying process14:46 Shoe Giveaway contents19:19 Additional dye work with diluted navy dye20:25 Applying Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish22:00 Brushing off the belt with a horsehair brush22:43 The belt in sunlight... I'm not happy...24:44 Some additional touch-up work with Acetone & Saphir polish to create a more gradual and more distinct transition27:21 The finished result!28:36 OutroHere's a LIST of the SHOE PACKAGE GIVEAWAY contents:1 pair of black USA made Johnston & Murphy "Melton" cap toe Oxfords, US size 10.5D (UK 9.5) 1 pair of well fitting spring-loaded Rochester shoe trees1 black Coach men's belt, size 34" (85cm)1 Kiwi shoe shine kit with brown & black polish, horsehair brush, 2 daubers, & a cotton shine cloth1 extra Kiwi shoe shine brush2 extra polish daubers2 extra pairs of Kiwi brown dress shoelacesTo ENTER yourself or someone else into the giveaway:A. Put in the comments BEFORE Friday March 18th 2022, the name of someone deserving of the package & why they should get it. B. Remember, I can only ship to the continental USA onlyC. One entry per viewer please.D. 10 days after the release of this video on Friday March 18th 2022, I will announce the name of the drawing winner!**UPDATE** Here's a link to the Giveaway unboxing video:youtu.be/7DRL3CjCpUEAdditional related videos:1. Corrected Grain vs Full Grain Leather is explained well here:"High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!"youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM2. The differences in leather quality is also explained pretty well here, but beware, this is one of my older videos & the production quality is not as professional as my more recent videos."Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj03. The video showing the Canadian Florsheim Imperials patina:"Before & After: Florsheim Imperial Custom Patina"youtu.be/S6rqrEP7Ysk4. "Leather Talk Interview with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcYHis products are available at www.PurePolishProducts.com5. This video is a VERY in-depth talk with Phil Kalas, co-owner of Ashland Leather Co & is all about leather & it's production, etc."Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1"youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoYYou can get the Saphir products at www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.comMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Tiptoe Out The Back" by Dan Liebowitz2. "The Bywater" by The Mini Vandals3. "Mirror Mirror" by Diamond Ortiz4. "Saint Gary" by John Deeley and the 41 Players5. "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood Thank you for watching! I try to release at least a couple videos every month, but sometimes it's more or less often depending on if I have a project and the time to produce a video.
Before & After: Florsheim Imperial Custom Patina Robert Powers 2022-02-26 | This video features a custom patina dye job by professional patina artist Alberto Suastez from Patina Works Arizona! They are a pair of Canadian Florsheim longwings built by the John McHale company for Florsheim. The patina is what I would describe as a subtle reverse copper patina on a Navy blue base color. I estimate that they were produced between 1980 to 1992. I sent them to Alberto for the Patina, and re-finished the sole edges myself. Follow along to see the before and after on these 30 plus year old vintage Florsheim Imperials! You may recognize Alberto's name from my Quarantine series video "33 yr old NOS Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial 93605!" Here's a link to it: youtu.be/E2Pa8hBgp2Q - Alberto is a shoe lover, Sartorial gentleman, and a patina artist in Arizona, USA. He's a true modern-day Renaissance man. You can most easily contact him for information on a Custom Patina and/or shoeshine by Direct Message from the Instagram App as @PatinaWorksArizona Web version: www.instagram.com/patinaworksarizonaGo to my Instagram @robert_powers_ to see the shoes with the Navy laces.0:43 - Canadian John McHale Florsheim information3:15 - Differences between the John McHale Florsheims & US models4:24 - Dating & inspecting the shoe's quality7:10 - Unboxing the re-dyed shoes10:01 - Re-finishing the sole edges12:20 - Re-coloring the sole edges13:43 - Brushing the heel/sole edges14:24 - Shining the heel/sole edges 15:45 - Shining & conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish neutral cream polish16:08 - Additional Mirror shine with Pure Polish High Shine wax16:59 - The finished shoes19:45 - The shoes shown with a couple outfits21:07 - Some examples of Alberto's work21:31 - Bloopers & outroRelated videos:"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3"youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0My "Patina/Dye/Color Change" video Playlistyoutube.com/playlist?list=PLxhRT7sIvvB6UhiBtthTZ4i2YfHWhVPdlMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Brahma (Artner Remix)" by Metaharmoniks (Be A King)2. "Church of 8 Wheels" by Otis McDonaldThe Pure Polish products I use are available at www.PurePolishProducts.com.Music Credit: YouTube Audio LibraryPhotos from Alberto Suastez's Instagram @PatinaWorksArizona were used with his permission
$300 Made to Measure Coat for $40! Robert Powers 2022-02-20 | In this video I show a beautiful sport coat I thrifted for $12. It features functional surgeon's cuffs and half-canvass construction. The stitching on the lining and collar appears to be machine done, not hand stitched. The label only says that the shell is 100% wool, so I don't know the thread count specifics, nor the lining material. The buttonholes appear to be stitched before they were cut (the best jackets have the buttonholes stitched after they are cut). This is therefore not a top tier jacket, but the surgeon's cuffs are a nice touch, and it appears to be made to measure based on the label with the initials "VAD" on it. There was no maker's label. I took the jacket to a local embroidery shop to have the label removed, embroidered for me, and re-attached for $25 (so with tax approximately $40 total). I also show the jacket paired with a variety of slacks and shirt combinations. 0:44 - A brief tour of Blonde Lobster Embroidery's equipment & capabilities 3:05 - Explanation of the work to be done on my jacket label 6:22 - Showing the 12-color industrial CNC embroidery machine 7:48 - Showing the above machine actually in use8:55 - My patch in process9:16 - Unveiling the finished result with the new label 9:53 - Showing how the new stitching went through into the pocket 10:20 - Showing the jacket with 7 different slacks and why they either pair well or do not pair well 11:52 - The jacket with 5 different complete ensembles 12:23 - How to spot some features of a high quality suit or jacket18:45 - showing the jacket on me with paired with several different outfits210:15 - Outro & credits Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library: "Brahma (Artner Remix)" by Metaharmonix (Be A King)Some relevant expert videos (not mine):"$100 Suit vs $1000 Suit - Differences Between Cheap & Expensive Suits - Gentleman's Gazette"youtu.be/zcsFP83eu3Y"Difference Between Cheap $500 Custom Suit & $5,000 Tailor-Made Bespoke Suit"youtu.be/Rz8bbLROirA"How To Spot A Cheap Suit - Gentleman's Gazette"youtu.be/mCn-umV3s0c"Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits"youtu.be/z3abMoo0gQc
How to Dye a Belt | How to spot High Quality Leather? Robert Powers 2022-02-14 | In this video I take a burgundy Polo Ralph Lauren belt and re-dye it black with shoe edge dressing. I also give an explanation of the difference between full grain leather, corrected grain leather, genuine leather, and synthetic or bonded leather. I also spruce up a couple other leather belts by simply polishing them.0:50 - The difference between a $30 and a $130 Allen Edmonds belt1:36 - Animation: Full Grain Aniline vs Corrected Grain vs Genuine Leather3:44 - Removing scuffs by with Cream Polish5:38 - Corrected Grain failure shown6:50 Jos A Bank full grain leather belt shown7:10 Taking a burgundy Polo Ralph Lauren belt and re-dying it black9:12 - Conditioning the dyed belt with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner10:59 - Showing the polished & shined walnut Allen Edmonds belt11:20 - Polishing a full grain Johnston & Murphy belt11:50 - Showing a high quality vs a low quality buckle12:20 - Polishing out scuffs on a Ticknor's Full Grain Aniline belt - what is Kipskin?14:07 - showing the shined J&M belt14:44 - Polishing the belt with Pure Polish black wax after the Cleaner Conditioner has set for 1 hour16:18 - The finished result16:35 - Showing the finished belt with a suit & shoesRelated Videos:1. "High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!"youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM2. "Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"* Beware, this video is an earlier video with poorer production qualityyoutu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj03. "Leather Belt Moisturize & Polish: Saphir, Tanners Blend, & Kiwi"youtu.be/k6GDssl8uBI
Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt2/2 Robert Powers 2021-12-31 | This is Part 2 of an in depth inverview with Russell, "the Sartorial Chauffer". He's one of the consistently best dressed gentlemen I know with a massive shoe, suit, and watch collection. Listen and learn from him how to dress better, WHY to dress better, how to match watches, pocket squares, and shoes. Get some fresh ideas on where to take your wardrobe, and learn how he did it even when he was broke! Learn how he used dressing well to keep himself motivated when his business completely collapsed during the Covid lockdown! This is the final part.Link to Part 1 of 2:youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c0:43 Recap of his greatest business challenge3:03 David Ambrico collaboration & stratching his boundaries5:50 Find a need & try to fill it!7:06 Watch modding & attention to details9:08 Start with the basics if you're just geting started10:15 My weddinng experience rant / why I run my channel12:09 Dressing nice even when you're in sneakers13:37 A well-fitting thrift item is better than an ill-fitting $8k suit14:58 How he learned about & aquired his first Oxxford (brand) suit19:04 You can spot quality from 15 feet away once you develop an eye / how he learned about this before the internet21:37 How he first got into Allen Edmonds shoes25:15 The public doesnt care about AE / Quality for quality, not for the logo25:59 Ealdwine Gentemen's Shop & Alden shoes28:00 Warp speed learning though internet social media Sartorial groups28:36 Be patientlyimpatient / what advice Russel would give himself 30 years ago32:22 I got it wrong & had to redo my work... it's OK to make mistakes!33:30 1 little decision can make a big diffreence to others34:00 Work with what you have 36:43 Closing comments/outroThe "Topy mistake" video Russell referred to:"Putting Rubber Half Soles on my new Allen Edmonds":youtu.be/CYD1led2fOcEaldwine Gentlemen's Shop's website:www.ealdwineraleigh.comRussell's Instagram: @sartorialchauffer
Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2 Robert Powers 2021-12-31 | This is an in depth inverview with Russell, "the Sartorial Chauffer". He's one of the consistently best dressed gentlemen I know with a massive shoe, suit, and watch collection. Listen and learn from him how to dress better, WHY to dress better, how to match watches, pocket squares, and shoes. Get some fresh ideas on where to take your wardrobe, and learn how he did it even when he was broke! Learn how he used dressing well to keep himself motivated when his business completely collapsed during the Covid lockdown! This is part 1 of 2 parts.0:45 Introduction to Russell "The Sartorial Chauffer"2:55 Outfit #1: Custom brown/tan AE MacGreggor with Orient Bambino watch, tan slacks, red/burgundy/brown shirt9:54 How the love for thrifting started; dark blue windowpane suit with black AEs with windowpane fabric, Ball Engineer II watch11:57 Bright Blue AE St John's, bright blue Orient Automatic watch, matching tie, paired with a charcoal suit14:44 Shoes Russel owns & why Allen Edmonds is his favorite17:40 Russell's 2 best tips for buying or getting service on AE shoes21:40 A Pinstriped Charcoal suit with a pair of 1980's AE Chester wingtip Oxford & a black & brown/mustard tie. Can you wear black & brown together?24:28 Navy suit with a light blue shirt, brown AE Brantley split toe Derby & a watch with a matching brown band25:50 Why & how he started paying attention to pocket squares & watches27:25 How his first livery (chauffer) vehicle affected how he dresses30:39 Thrifted taupe Belvest suit with cigar (brown) AE Strands, Hamilton Khaki Swiss watch with a black dial & brown leather band, pink shirt & brown tie33:00 Navy pinstripe suit, merlot AE Manchester wingtip tassel loafers, vintage Rado "Purple Horse" automatic watch, pinstriped blue/white shirt.34:31 Black suit with walnut AE Strands, walnut AE Belt, watch with walnut straps, Zegna tie from eBay, turmeric colored pocket squarThe "You can't pair balck and brown" challenge36:08 brown & white AE Spectators, matching watch with white dial & walnut straps, cream colored slacks, burgundy/brown/red shirt37:28 Bourbon AE Park Avenues, Ball automatic watch with a bourbon Ralleye Strap & black dial, patterned blue/white shirt, tan Chinos, brown tie & light brown sport coat369:12 Black suit with black AE Brantley Oxford boots, white shirt, black pattern tie with a Movado automatic watch with a black dial and black leather strap40:20 Discussing the "10,000 step dress shoe" & why dress shoes can be more comfortable than sneakers42:35 110+ year old button boots!46:36 NOS (New Old Stock) John C. Roberts quarter brogue Oxfords from around the 1930's -1940's with a spade sole48:18 John McHale short-wing Blucher "Bombers" with a triple oak sole from the late 1950's49:57 Florsheim "Golden Harvest" Long Wing Bluchers restored by Steve from Bedos Leatherworks, & where the term "Gunboats" came from53:24 NOS Allen Edmonds Macneils from 1977 with the box & the difference between the Macneil & the current "Macneil 2.0"56:20 A pair of AE Fifth Avenues from 1990 in "antique burgundy calf" that were purchased after sitting in an Allen Edmonds store for over 20 years!59:24 A pair of custom one-off AE Saddle Oxfords (similar to the Polo) in #8 Shell Cordovan1:02:45 AE Hale with a custom "Copper" patina by Alberto Suastez from Patinaworks Arizona, inspired by the feldspar gem1:05:50 AE Park Avenues in black marbled shell cordovan (which isn't really black)1:07:27 Russell's opinion on Shell Cordovan Care & his favorite product to condition Shell Cordovan1:09:58 MUST SEE: Why Russell started posting his OOTD (Outfit of the Day) - how he handled his biggest buisiness adversity1:16:33 Outro & creditsCLICK HERE for "Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 2/2":"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY"Leather Talk with Andy from Pure Polish"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Shoe Showcase: NEW 35 yr old UNWORN Sears Roebuck PTB"youtu.be/8EMCBG14O3sPure Polish Cleaner Conditionerwww.PurePolishProducts.com
My FIRST Watch Repair: 45 yr old Bulova Accutron! Robert Powers 2021-12-12 | This video shows me doing what I thought was a simple battery change on a recently discovered 1976 model Bulova Accutron model 219 watch that my father received in 1979 for 25 years of service to Goodyear. He retired from Goodyear after 37 years of service. The watch has a gold plated back cover with his name, 25 years of service, and the date 1979 engraved on it. I find out pretty quickly that although a new battery brings the second hand to life, the minute and hour hands were not moving. A detailed thread on the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors website showed me exactly what the problem was (linked below).0:47 Disclaimer1:56 Batteries: 1.55v Silver oxide 344 vs the 1.35v mercury oxide 3432:52 Battery Replacement4:20 Discovering the minute & hour hands don’t move4:34 What’s wrong explained / disassembly begins7:09 Showing the Center Wheel Assembly7:38 Removing the Date Bridge, Date Indictor, & Date indicator Detent8:48 Removing the Date Trip Spring, Yoke, & minute wheel9:29 Mis-diagnosing the bad Center Wheel Assembly10:21 Problem explained & cleaning the corrosion11:46 Showing the bad Center Wheel Assembly12:27 New Center Wheel Assembly w/ P/N explained13:53 Re-oiling the Center Tube & installing the new Center Wheel Ass’y15:36 Showing the differences between the model 218 & 21916:36 Installing the new Setting Wheel, Minute Wheel, Yoke, & Setting Lever21:17 Installing the Hour Wheel, Calendar Trip Arm Ass’y & Date Indicator Detent24:34 Installing the Date Trip Spring & Date Indicator wheel26:37 Installing the Date Bridge & Date Indicator Detent Spring29:02 Testing & Explaining the date trip action31:09 Watch hands alignment & installation333:47 Cleaning the watch with Thinking Putty (similar to silly putty, a Rodico replacement)34.19 Re-installing the Setting Stem & battery34:35 Fabricating a new Battery Strap from a Paperclip36:33 Bump starting the Index Wheel37:15 Summary, showing the working watch with some matching clothes, belt & shoes & my grandfather’s working 100 year old pocket watch!Note: I realize running a pocket watch that probably hasn’t been run or serviced in 50 years is a bad idea. I only partially wound it once, and I probably won’t run it again until it gets to be professionally serviced. The pocketwatch shown is a Waltham Model 1892 PS Bartlett grade 17 Jewel size 18 pocket watch.National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors website article: mb.nawcc.org/threads/bulova-accutron-repair-help.173334 There 3 videos on YouTube by My Retro Watches that showed how to take apart and reassemble a model 218, which is nearly identical to my 219: "Bulova Accutron 218 Disassembly Tutorial": youtu.be/JT3VVLz4z4E "Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning Fork Watch - Assembly Part 1": youtu.be/cxnsas9Bayw "Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning Fork Watch Assembly Part 2": youtu.be/gqU2iX-sQEo This video on DIY Watch Club showed me how to re-install watch hands: "Watch hand installation detailed guide part 1: Hour and Minute hands (movement with date)": youtu.be/Jy-bXjloJB8 Next time I will be more careful with not leaving parts on the watch that can fall off, and being more cautious to read small text on the watch, and I'll also wear those little finger rubbers they all seem to wear. Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
Florsheim Double Monk Straps RESOLE Part 2 Robert Powers 2021-11-27 | After a 2-1/2 YEAR GAP since releasing Part 1, I'm FINALLY airing part 2, which is filmed at a local Cobbler's shoe repair shop! We put new half soles onto my Florshiems, showing you how it's done every step of the way. Be forewarned though, I did a TERRIBLE job with the Blake/McKay outsole stitcher, COMPOUNDED with the fact that it was out of adjustment, so the outsole stitching came out terrible. I hope you still get some value from the video by either being entertained and/or learn something. Enjoy! Part 1: "Florsheim Double Monk Straps Shine + New heels Part 1":youtu.be/9-978znVMGQ0:34 Intro/setup & explanation of 2.5 yr gap & “warning”2:31 Start of shoe teardown, removing insoles, cleaning out foam3:29 Removing the front half of the outsole4:47 Marking the sole for the new half-sole & cutting the old one off6:55 Showing the Florsheim cosmetic outsole & Blake stitching7:37 Fishing out the old Blake Stitch8:17 Showing the upper, cosmetic welt, and insole8:58 Time Lapse of me tearing apart the other shoe9:55 Re-gluing the uppers and false welt back on, adding a layer or cork10:35 Repairing the cosmetic stitch on the welt11:35 Beveling (sanding down to a taper) the old outsole13:44 Time lapse of me beveling the old sole15:03 Skiving the new half soles on the 5-in-one machine16:16 Sanding down the transition on the outsole16:39 Gluing up the shoe and new outsoles20:47 Showing a cool lifted shoe21:27 Putting on the new leather outsoles23:49 Pressing on the edges of the outsoles with the 5-in-one24:30 Trimming the outsole with the 5-in-one25:22 Finish shaping the edges of the outsole28:08 Brief explanation28:35 CLOSE-UP of the Goodyear Welting outsole stitcher!30:18 Stitching someone else’s shoe with the Goodyear Welting machine31:13 Cutting the groove for the outsole stitches31:35 Stitching on the Outsoles with the Blake/McKay machine36:26 Showing the final result39:12 Outro & creditsSpecial thanks to:Neal (owner) of Oriti Shoe Repair5299 Broadview RoadCleveland, OH 44134(216) 375-0519Thank you for watching! My Instagram is @robert_powers_Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:"Be A King (M.W.D. Remix)" by Metaharmonix
Fixing Stained Magnanni Dress Sneakers with dye & polish Robert Powers 2021-11-10 | This video shows me step by step fixing a friend's pair of Magnanni casual dress sneakers that looked bad after someone tried to cover some staining and fading on the toes. I honestly almost didn't record this video, as I didn't know if the content was "video worthy". I know it's not an earth-shattering transformation, but I thought at the end that it's still fun to watch, and may help someone. As I state in the video, just be careful with Reno-mat, as I've heard from others that it sometimes will remove the color from shoes.0:35 - Starting condition0:56 - Warnging of using dye with a duaber vs airbrush2:38 - Step 1: Stripping the old wax off with Saphir Renomat5:11 Step 2: Prepping the surface for dye5:27 - Taping off the soles with masking tape6:01 - Airbrushing on alcohol reduced dye6:41 - Step 3 - condittioning the leather with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner10:49 Step 4 - Brush the set up conditioner with a horse hair brush11:26 - Step 5 - Apply Saphir Medaille D'Or #37 medium brown cream polish12:48 - Step 6: Brushing the polish with a horse hair brush13:51 =- Step 7: Ceaning the edges of the sole with Shoe MGK Cleaner & Conditioner & some brake cleaner15:43 - The finished result17:51 - Outro with musicOther related videos:"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1"youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoYMusic Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library:"So Smooth" by Danny Kean - Doug MaxwellProducts used:1. Saphir Renomat (solvet based cleaner) and Saphir Medaille D'Or cream polish available at www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.com2. Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner www.PurePolishProducts.com3. I got the Shoe MGK cleaner at a mall kiosk years ago, but any cleaner such as a baking soda and water paste, Fantastik tub cleaner, Simple Green cleaner etc will work.
Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 3/3 Robert Powers 2021-11-06 | This is the 3rd and final part of me rebuilding a classic pair of vintage 1990 Florsheim Royal Imperial Long Wing Bluchers model #96624 at home. This video finishes rebuilding the heels back to a condition similar to the original v-cleat heels on this classic pair of shoes. I also re-finish the uppers, and mirror shine the toes. This model is one of the last of the great vintage Florsheim produced at the twighlight of their golden days, when they were made in the USA with high quality materials and construction methods. In my opinion, they were superior in quality to a modern Allen Edmonds, and close to on par in quality to a modern Alden. 0:38 – Before photos & Introduction0:52 – Shine the edges of the heel & fix scuffs on the upper1:22 – Polish/color the heel breast2:01 – Air brush dye the top lifts2:45 – Photo of an original V-cleat sole2:51 – Cutting a hole for my rubber V-cleat6:46 – Installing 50+ nails in the heel top lifts8:31 –Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner on the uppers10:40 – Pure Polish black Paste Wax Polish on the uppers11:53 – Skiving the new debossed insole sock liners12:15 – Buffing the uppers12:59 – Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax mirror shine16:50 – Sock liner insole installation17:27 – The finished result & monologue on the beauty of the LWBRelated videos:"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 2/3" (PART 2 of 3)youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 1/3" (PART 1 of 3)youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0"Re-Soling a Shoe at Home #3" (my previous attempt on the AE Graysons)youtu.be/YfYImLnzWDE"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)" youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo Here's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oA... Music Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library:1. “Be A King (M.W.D. remix)” by Metaharmoniks (Be A King)2. “Calluses II” by William Rosati3. “Brahma (Artner remix)” by Metaharminiks (Be A King)4. “Hear The Noise” by John Deley and the 41 PlayersSupplies used: 1. Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner, black Paste Wax Polish, & High Shine Paste Wax: www.PurePolishProducts.com2. Saphir Medaille D'Or #3 light brown cream polish:www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.com 3. 1 oz. Beeswax, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics4. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"5. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com6. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) size 97mm x 98mm from eBay seller "kartus" (Note: each style and size shoe will need it's own correctly sized heel base)7. 5mm thick rubber sheet for heels from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis, IA. instagram.com/landwerlenleather Note: this rubber is a little on the soft side. It has great traction, and is easy to work with, and is ideal to match the thickness of the original Allen Edmonds top lifts, but it wears quicker than the factory "victory" heel top lift material.
Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 2/3 Robert Powers 2021-11-05 | This is part 2 of 3 of me rebuilding a classic pair of vintage 1990 Florsheim Royal Imperial Long Wing Bluchers model #96624 at home. This video starts where Part 1 left off, which is gluing on the midsoles and outsoles. You’ll see me hand stitch on the outsoles, as well as finish them similarly to the original Florsheim brown “wood grain” finish. This model is one of the last of the great vintage Florsheims produced at the twighlight of their golden days, when they were made in the USA with high quality materials and construction methods. In my opinion, they were superior in quality to a modern Allen Edmonds, and close to on par in quality to a modern Alden. 0:42 – Installing the midsole1:43 – Installing the outsole4:33 – Rough Sanding the outsole & welt to shape5:15 – My 1st big problem… the outsole width6:11 – Trimming the welt & outsole flashing6:41 – Pre-punching holes in the welt 7:37 – Cutting the groove in the outsole10:10 – Staining the outsoles with the airbrush11:51 – Applying the classic Florsheim “wood grain” finish13:20 – The tool for punching holes in the welt and sole15:19 – 2nd major problem – alcohol made the dye run15:35 – Back to punching holes16:00 – Close-up of the welt & sole holes16:49 – Punching 5 holes in the arch of the sole17:06 – Stitching on the outsoles22:20 – Sealing the thread ends with a lighter23:22 – Close-up of the welt side stitching23:50 – Shaping the new stacked leather heel blocks & heel balancing26:07 – Gluing on the heels27:30 – Nailing on the heel assembly30:30 – Shaping heels & outsoles on the belt sander33:04 – Hand sanding the heel & soles34:19 – Color polishing the heel & sole edges35:10 – Brushing the heel to a shine!35:48 – The result I wanted! & the “Secret” to edge finishing36:46 - OutroOther relevant videos: "Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 1/3" (PART 1 of 3)youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 3/3" (PART 3 of 3)youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKw"Re-Soling a Shoe at Home #3" (my previous attempt on a pair of Allen Edmonds Grayson loafers):youtu.be/YfYImLnzWDE"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)":youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo Here's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oApLfVgM&list=PLxhRT7sIvvB5RTPDrnE7RZcGvsOkYx-PL Music Credits: YouTube Free Audio Library:1. “Tiptoe Out the Back” by Dan Liebowitz2. “Costa Rica” by Slynk3. “Beautiful World” by Drew Banga4. “Nice to You” by Vibe Tracks5. “Six Feet Off the Ground” by Nana Kwabena6. “American Idle” by RKVC Supplies:1. Storm Welt Natural, Landis bobbin (thread), small awl, leather heel blocks, leather heel top lifts, new leather mid-soles, etc) from Panhandle Leather Company, Amarillo, TX, USA: www.panhandleleather.com 2. 1 oz. Beeswx, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics 3. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"4. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com5. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) size 97mm x 98mm from eBay seller "kartus" (Note: each style and size shoe will need it's own correctly sized heel base)
Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3 Robert Powers 2021-11-04 | This is part 1 of me rebuilding a classic pair of vintage 1990 Florsheim Royal Imperial Long Wing Bluchers model #96624 at home. In this video I begin the teardown and re-soling process on this classic pair of shoes. This model is one of the last of the great vintage Florsheims produced at the twighlight of their golden days when these shoes were made in the USA with high quality materials and construction methods. In my opinion, they were superior in quality to a modern Allen Edmonds, and close to on par in quality to a modern Alden. 0:46 - Intro, dating the shoes, and "before" condition5:54 - New welting shown6:17 - Start of teardown: removing the heels10:34 - Removing the nails for the heels from the insoles12:29 - Removing the midsole outsole15:42 - Removing the shank16:10 - Removing the old cork bed18:36 - Removing the old welt21:35 - Installing the new leather storm welt28:05 - Re-installing the welt with the speedy stitcher33:31 - Flattening the insole with alcohol & water mix33:35 - Making a pattern for the cork & fitting the cork beds (2 layers)36:16 - New restoration parts from Bedo's Leatherworks!!38:44 - Outro with "before" picsOther relevant videos:"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 2/3" (PART 2 of 3)youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 3/3" (PART 3 of 3)youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKw"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Shoes":youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)"youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNoHere's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oApLfVgM&list=PLxhRT7sIvvB5RTPDrnE7RZcGvsOkYx-PLMusic courtesy of YouTube Audio Library:1. "221B Baker Street" by Hanu Dixit2. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers3. "7th Floor Tango" by Silent PartnerSupplies (Storm Welt Natural, Landis bobbin (thread), small awl, leather heel blocks, leather heel top lifts, new leather mid-soles, etc) from Panhandle Leather Company, Amarillo, TX, USA: www.panhandleleather.com1. 1 oz. Beeswax, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics2. Saphir Medaille D'Or #03 light brown cream polish:www.theelegantoxford.com or www.kirbyallison.com3. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"4. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com5. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) from eBay seller "kartus"
ReSoling a Shoe at Home #3 Robert Powers 2021-10-23 | This video is my 3rd attempt at resoling a Goodyear Welted shoe at home! Although the result is far from professional, ths time I'm much happeir with my work. This is NOT a "how to" video, rather just me documenting my journey as an ammateur cobbler. 0:38 - Intro, Explanation, & Allen Edmonds date code info3:26 - Beginning of disssasembly4:46 - A brief explanation of Goodyear Welting & showing the Gemming5:53 - Gluing on the new cork beds8:35 - Gluing on the outsole10:44 - Rough trimming the outsole11:06 - Sanding the outsoles to shape12:10 - Cutting the groove for the outsole stitches13:49 - Stitching the outsoles on by hand18:03 - Building a tool to punch holes19:10 - Trying out my new tool22:02 - Stitching & my "Experience" speech28:45 - Making mistakes 30:50 - Re-attaching the heel blocks32:15 - Attaching & trimming the heel top lifts35:53 - Finishing the edges of the heels and soles37:27 - Decorative nails in the top lifts40:18 - Staining the edges of the heels & soles with Simple Shine Edge Dressing41:02 - Staining the bottom of the soles and heels with Fiebings Tan leather dye41:34 - Cleaning the uppers with Saphir Renomat42:49 - Polishing & nourishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D'Or black cream polish44:27 - Polishing the edges of the heels and soles with Saphir Medaille D'Or black Mirror Gloss paste wax polish45:27 - The finished result & critiquing my work48:44 - Outro and creditsRelated or relavant videos:1. "Re-Soling at Home FAIL... Cobblers are Pros for a Reason!"youtu.be/on_GbQr65uo2. "DIY: Re-Soling Johnston & Murphy Loafers AT HOME (#2)"youtu.be/on_GbQr65uo3. "Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g4. "How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)"youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo5. "How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eYHere's a link to my Video list:youtube.com/user/Robertpowers1972/videosPanhandle Leather Co (leather heel top lifts, soles, thread, awls, etc)www.PanhandleLeather.comLandwerlen Leather Co (source of the rubber sheet for the heels):365 S Illinois St, Indianapolis, IN 46225317-636-8300*Edited 12/2021:* - Here is a list of tools used:1. Speedy Stitcher (JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, EBay) about $202. Extra Speedy Stitcher Relacement needles (Part # BN-135) from Hobby Lobby are about $5 a pack. I wind up using the straight needles in my latest videos.3. I got a leather working kit from eBay that had the dark red handled knife with the straight 90° blade, the edge de-burring tool, the grooving cutter, the files, a wooden leather burnishing tool, hole punches (not shown or used here) and a couple other tools for around $40!4. I got a pack of 3 awls with the orange handles from either Hobby Lobby or JoAnns for a few bucks. The large wooden handle awl I purchased used from eBay. The small wooden handle awl was from www.panhandleleather.com.5. The leather soles, Top Lifts, & cork can be purchased from eBay from seller @Nordshoe or www.panhandleleather.com.6. Masters All Purpose Cement by Petronio is available on eBay or www.panhandleleather.com. Watch out, there are tiny 4 oz cans, 8oz, and big quart cans. All have a brush. Don’t get the 4 oz, it’s too small. The big quart can is best if you're going to do a lot of jobs, but KEEP IT COVERED as MUCH as possible or it WILL dry out before you can use all of it.7. Belt sander belt, start with 36 grit, finish with 120 grit paper.8. The thread I used is from Hobby Lobby, RealLeather P/N BH25 (they sell black and white) but I probably wouldn’t use this. Go to www.realleather.com and get their “Landis Bobbins” for $1.35 ea. Get a few. They are 23 yards (69 feet, or 21 meters) per spool. One spool should be enough for one pair of shoes, but you'll mess up and they're cheap, so get 3 or 4 of them. Get black threads for shoes with a black or dark brown welt so the threads are hidden on the dark welt. Get either white or black for tan/natural colored welts.9. 1oz block of beeswax, $4, purchased from Hobby Lobby.10. I used tin snips I've had in the garage. They are actually designed for cutting thin sheet metal and are probably available through Sears Craftsman or the like. The red handled ones are right handed, the green handled ones are left handed. The difference is in which side the cutting jaw is on. 11. I created the welt and sole punching tool from a pair of channel locks and an alen wrench.Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Epic Dramatic" by Yuri Bespalov from FreeMusicPublicDomain2. "Calluses_II" by William Rosati3. "Tracks of My Fears" by John Deley and the 41 Players4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers5. "Where to Walk by Aaron Lieberman6. "Two of Us" by Saidbysed7. "Sangria" by Saidbysed8. "Eyeliner" by Underbelly9. "So Bueno" by The 126ersMy instagram is robert_powers_
Thrifted Johnston & Murphy Oxford shine Before & After Robert Powers 2021-09-14 | This video features cleanup of a pair of Johnston & Murphy "Melton" cap toe Oxfords that I thrifted recently. The cleanup includes wiping off the shoes, inserting tight fitting shoe trees to get the wrinkles out, conditioning with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner, brushing with a horse hair brush, polishing with Pure Polish black paste wax, brushing again, mirror shining the toe caps with Pure Polish high shine paste wax, re-coloring the edges of the soles with Simple Shine edge dressing, and shining the edges of the soles and heels with black Saphir Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss wax.This video is dedicated to the memory of our wonderful dog Rylee (see outro for photos). Rylee was an approximately 8 or 9 year old Vizsla that we rescued about 3.5 years ago. She was beaten by her previous owner, and her demeanor improved 200% with us. She was pampered! Unfortunately, earlier this month she went into heart failure from what they think was a tumor on her heart. Her loss was painful, but we feel blessed to have had her love for the time that we did.Music Credit:"The Basement Strut" by The Whole Other (funky R&B) from YouTube Free Audio.Here are some links to some related videos:"$395 Allen Edmonds vs $179 J&M... What's the difference?youtu.be/aMboJxOL2mwLearn all about Pure Polish Products and how to care for leather:"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching!"youtu.be/-oRWEzvoVe8"Brogues explained! J&M Aristocraft vs Optima Full Grain Test"youtu.be/pkbAdSJoq_o
Buying a NICE suit for under $300? / Why pay for Tailoring? Robert Powers 2021-06-20 | This is a RE-UPLOAD of a video I posted back in June of 2019, but it somehow got deleted without my knowledge. The only reason I can figure is because one part has background music that is probably copyrighted, but at this point it's non-monetized so it still should be okay.This video documents a mission I was on to purchase a nice suit for less than $300. By "nice" I mean the outer made from high quallity 100% wool, half canvas constructoin, and the lining made from natural materials.I apologize in advance for parts of the video and audio being poor quality.Special thanks to Cindy at Savile Lane:117 Ghent RoadFairlawn, OH 44333cchen@savilelane.com(330) 864-8642
Allen Edmonds Strand Weaves Repair & Give-Away! Robert Powers 2021-06-17 | This video features a beautifully unique pair of almost new Allen Edmonds Strand Weave Cap-Toe Oxfords that were donated to my channel for a give-away. The owner damaged them on his first wear out, and sent them to me after I offered to repair them the best I could. Greg, the original owner of the shoes, then came up with the idea to do a drawing and give them away, which we did. The repair process, the shine, and the recipient of the shoes is docuented here. It's interesting to note, Jake, the winner, is an Opera singer, and apparently will be able to wear his new shoes on stage!3:19 - the damage & comparison of different weave construction methods6:22 - reassembling the torn weave9:39 - gluing the torn ends18:54 - polishing the uppers 22:20 - cleaning & polishing the soles & heels24:52 - mirror shining the toe caps27:05 - re-coloring the edges of the soles & heels28:15 - polishing the edges of the heels and soles29:36 - the final result30:48 - Justin, the winner unboxing the shoes 31:46 - Closing shots, outro, & creditsOther related videos:"Repairing TORN Mezlan Woven Leather Oxfords"youtu.be/7RSz6mKK_MEMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1."American Idle" buy RKVC2. "Buckeye Bonzai" by Vans in Japan3. "Rooster" by Delicate Steve4. "Pondering Madly" by The Lemming Shephers (Symphony for the Census)5. "Fortunate Son" by Silent Partner6. "Stuff" by Otis McDonandProducts used in this video:Saphir #37 medium brown Medaille D'Or cream polish (uppers)Saphir #03 light brown Medaille D'Or cream polish (soles)Pure Polish Products High Shine Wax www.purepolishproducts.comPure Polish Products Premium Polishing ClothShoe MGK Cleaner Conditioner (to clean the soles and heels)Simple Shine Leather + Suede Dye (edge dressing) www.simpleshine.comKiwi Parade Gloss black shoe polish (heels)Special thanks to Greg Gilchrist of the Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts Facebook group for the generous donation of the olive Allen Edmonds Strand Weave Cap-Toe Oxfords!
Thrifted Nettleton SHELL CORDOVAN loafers! Robert Powers 2021-04-17 | This video features a pair of genuine Shell Cordovan tassel loafers made by Nettleton. I give a brief company history, and do a quick cleanup on the shoes. Although Nettleton is now again selling high end shoes, according to www.VCleat.com, Nettleton stopped producing shoes in the US in 1990, making these shoes at a minimum 30 years old. 4:15 - Skip Co history go to the shoes 8:08 - Start of cleanup 18:44 - Tassel repair 21:49 - Shell Cordovan Mirror Shine technique. I admit, it didn't add a tremendous amount of shine to these particular shoes in this one case.25:38 - Final result Shell Cordovan is a highly sought after leather derived from a membrane on the hind quarters of a horse. For more information on Shell Cordovan, see the following videos: 1. "How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather": youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y 2. "Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?": youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE 3. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1": youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY 4. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 2": youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY 5. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 3": youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library: 1."See You On The Other Side" by the 126ers 2. "Stoner Things" by Patiño
Before & After: Thrifted Allen Edmonds Sanford Derby Robert Powers 2021-04-13 | This video features a cleanup, polish, and installing rubber half-soles on a thrifted pair of Allen Edmonds “Sanford” cap toe Derbies. 0:38 - Backstory & dating Allen Edmonds shoes based on the logo4:33 - Start of cleanup with Saphir Renomat7:08 - Conditioning/moisturizing with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner10:00 - Polishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D’Or Bordeaux cream polish12:29 - Mirror shining the toe caps with Pure Polish neutral High Shine Paste / Wax Polish19:20 - Adding on rubber protective half soles from 1.2mm rubber soling sheet (Amazon)27:57 - Shining the soles with Saphir Medaille D’Or light brown cream polish28:28 - Polishing the edges of the heels and soles with black Kiwi Parade Gloss wax polish29:33 - The final result31:57 - Outro & creditsThe rubber soling material I used is "SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm Black" from Amazon.Other related videos:“"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes”: youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY“Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 1": youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY“Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 2": youtu.be/zmAiQnikdioSpecial thanks to Jim Pietryka of Ealdwine Gentleman's Shop in Raliegh, NC & the "Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts" Facebook group for the additional information on the 1992 logo change.Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library Genre: Rock, Mood: bright, inspirational, dramatic, & happy:1. "See You On The Otherside" by The 126ers2. "American Idle" by RKVC3. "Buckeye Bonzai" by Vans in Japan4. "Rooster" by Delicate Steve5. "Sonic Pogo" by Vans in Japan6. "Stoner Things" by Patiño
Fix & Shine (heels & half soles) on 4 Pairs of Allen Edmonds Robert Powers 2021-03-09 | This video highlights some maintenance on 4 of my 11 pairs of Allen Edmonds. My walnut Strands needed a good shine. The Oxblood Macneils needed the rubber protective half soles replaced. Both needed new heel taps. My McAllisters could use the rubber portion of the custom top-lifts replaced and a shine, and I wanted to replace the ugly thick Goodyear rubber protective half soles on my black Park Avenues.1:04 Showing what the Strands need1:47 What the Macneils need (new heel taps)1:57 What the McAllisters need - new rubber top lifts2:21 Showing the half soles of the Park Avenues3:17 The materials for the rubber protective half soles compared 4:27 Cleaning the heels and soles with Saddle Soap6:27 Replacing the heel taps on the Strands & Mcneils11:05 Replacing the rubber protective half soles on the Macneils15:12 Trimming off the outside of the half soles17:21 Removing & replacing the rubber portion of my custom half leather -rubber combo heels I created a year ago22:49 Shining the McAllisters & fixing cracked mirror shine with a lighter28:14 Shining the walnut Strands with water resistant Pure Polish30:48 Replacing the rubber half soles on the black Park Avenues34:00 Minor sanding and re-staining of the sole edges with Simple Shine edge dressing34:29 The finished result for all 4 shoes38:15 Outro with photos & creditsRelated videos:"Saddle Soap: Why? What's in it?" youtu.be/_4DH7-VTixE"New Half-Soles & Heels on my Allen Edmonds McAllisters" youtu.be/0WWNmlizVtM"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1" youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcYThe EXPLANATION of the Pure Polish water resistant polish is at 30:05, the actual test on my Strands is at 35:18"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2" youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio"How to Tie Dress Shoes | Berluti Knot Method" youtu.be/kXHemBywew4Supplies I used- Kiwi Saddle Soap is available at most local stores like CVS Pharmacy, Walmart, etc, but any brand will do- The "Kaniji" softer sheet rubber I used in this video:"KANEIJI Shoe Repair Rubber Soling Sheet, 57 * 38cm, Different Colors and Thickness can Choose, 1 Sheet (Black, 2mm Thickness)"Amazon, ASIN #B07RDZD7GS ($19.98 for the 22.4" x 15" sheet)- Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio - available on eBay from seller "Nordshoe" ($38/quart)- The thinner harder durometer unbranded rubber sheet is SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm, sold by: Van Rees Trading Company from Amazon- The rubber sheet I got from Steve at Bedos Leatherworks is about 2 or 2.5mm thick, the logo says "CHIC"- The heel taps I used are GUARD Quality Heel & Toe Plates Polyeurethane (Plastic) Taps Savers" from eBay seller Nordshoe. I paid $8 for 5 pairs. The ones in this video are the large size #6.- See www.PurePolishProducts.com for the neutral High Shine wax, Burgundy cream polish, light brown water resistant cream polish, and mirror shining cotton cloth- I got the 10 iron (approx. 5mm thick) heeling rubber sheet and heeling leather from which the heel top lifts on the McAllisters were created from Landwerlen Leather (an “iron” is a unit of measuring leather thickness. One iron = 1/48 inch):Landwerlen Leather Co https://landwerlen-leather-co.business.site/365 Illinois St.Indianapolis, IN 46225(317) 636-8300Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library1. "Sangria" by Saidbysed2. "See You Soon" by Otis McDonald3. "Two Of Us" by Saidbysed4. "Where to Walk" by Aaron Lieberman5. "You're Not That Funky" by Otis McDonald6. "Eyeliner" by Underbelly7. "Family Montage" by Biz Baz Studio8. "Hero's Ascent" by Chris Haugen9. "I'm Happy for this Guitar" by Freedom Trail Studio10."So Bueno" by The 126ersInstagram: @robert_powers_
Putting Rubber Half Soles on my new Allen Edmonds Robert Powers 2021-01-09 | In this episode, I bumble my way through putting rubber protective half soles on a pair of Allen Emdonds Leyland woven leather split toe penny loafers that we found at a thrift store recently. I say "bumble" because I was a little rusty from being out of practice being quarantined not getting many shoes in, so I do show the whole process, mistakes and all.0:32 - Why rubber protective half soles? (aka Topy)4:53 - Laying out the sole template9:05 - Alignging the template to the shoe12:17 - Comparing the Kaneji rubber sheet to the SoleTech Sole-Guard and re-cutting the sheet15:05 - Skiving/cutting the leather sole to make the rubber sole flush23:30 - Sandind down the leather soles for the glue24:08 - Applying the Rubber Cement to the soles and sheet27:57 - Sticking the rubber soles to the shoes29:53 - Trimming the half soles to match the shoe33:05 - Cleaning up the edges of the soles and polishing them34:33 - They're done, but not symetric... decide to redo one36:39 - The finished product37:35 - Blooper37:39 - Outro consisting of artistically pleasing shots of the shoes and me in the shoes, and with my dog.Music Credit - YouTube Audio Library1. 75 & Lower by DJ Williams2. A New Orleans Crafish Boil by Unicorn Heads3. Awakening by Silent Partner4. James River by DJ Williams5. Mia by Jeremy BlakeSupplies:Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio - available on eBay from seller "Nordshoe"SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm, sold by: Van Rees Trading Company from Amazon
Four Thrifted Allen Edmonds Before & After Robert Powers 2021-01-03 | This video features four thrifted Allen Edmonds shoes: Three pairs of Derbies and one pair of woven two-tone split toe loafers, all size 13B. The Derbies are a pair of mahogany or brown Bradley split toes, a pair of walnut Charlestons with a stitched apron and sharp chisel point toe, and a pair of Clifton cap toes. I apologize in advance for the spoken audio being too quiet in the early part of the video. 0:50 : Intro/story of how I found them03:30 : I'm an 11.5 EEE, can I wear a size 13B? 08:29 : Showing the Bradley split toes10:25 : What is a Derby vs an Oxford?12:04 : Charleston chisel point toe shown14:44 : Showing the Clifton cap toe Derbies and Allen Edmonds "Factory Seconds" (F2) explained.17:23 : Cleaning up & conditioning the Bradley split toes with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner24:04 : Cleaning up & conditioning the walnut Charlestons with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner25:23 : Cleaning & conditioning the Leyland loafers with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner26:20 : Cleaning & conditioning the black Cliftons with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner27:30 : Polishing the Leyland loafers with Pure Polish water resistant polish31:23 : Polishing the walnut Charlsetons with Saphir Medaille D'Or #3 light brown cream polish32:12 : Polishing the split toe Bradleys with Saphir Medaille D'Or #9 mahogany cream polish33:58 : Polishing the Clifton cap toes with Saphir Medaille D'Or #1 Black35:05 : Brushing off all four pairs36:57 : FULL MIRROR SHINE TUTORIAL on the Cliftons. The entire Mirror shine process is shown (none of it was edited out).56:23 : Quick mirror shine on the tips of the toes of the Leyland loafers59:15 : Polishing the walnut Chalestons with Pure Polish neutral cream poish59:52 : Polishing the split toe Bradleys with Pure Polish neutral cream polish and polishing out a scratch on the heel1:01:25 : Touching up the toes on the walnut Chalestons with Saphir Mirror Gloss1:01:59 : The final resluts in HD!1:03:52 : Bloopers Reel1:04:19 : Closing photos & credits"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt1"youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt2"youtu.be/zmAiQnikdioMusic Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "3rd Eye Blimp" by Otis McDonald2. "75 & Lower" by DJ Williams3. "A New Orleans Crawfish Boil" by Unicorn Heads4. "Aces High - Funkorama" by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. httpscreativecommons.orglicensesby4.0Source httpincompetech.commusicroyalty-freeindex.htmlisrc=USUAN1100763Artist httpincompetech.com5. "James River" by DJ Williams6. "Mia" by Jeremy Blake7. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
Ferragamo Oxfords Before & After | Blake Rapid explained Robert Powers 2020-12-30 | This video features a cleanup on a pair of Ferragamo plain toe Oxfords I picked up at a thrift store, as well as an explanation of Blake Rapid Construction! I apologize for the echo in the audio in the early part of the video. Sometimes the voice audio is too quiet and I have to amplify and overdub it, and it got doubled & I just don't have time to take the 2-3 hours to recompile the entire video. FYI: I should have pointed out a unique feature of these shoes: the vamp is asymetric. There is a seam at the front of the laces on the outside of the shoes, but not the inside. I think it's visually interesting. 1:30 : The origins of Ferragamo & who Salvatore Ferragamo the founder was 5:10 : A “Before” of the shoes & which line are they (Tramezza vs Lavorazione Originale) 8:18 : What is Blake Rapid vs Goodyear Welted vs regular Blake Stitched?14:00 : Shoes uppers and soles current condition 14:55 : Start of the Cleanup17:48 : Clean and condition the uppers23:00 : Removing the permanent ink text from the soles29:30 : Polishing the uppers with black cream polish31:10 : Mirror Shine (aka “Spit Shine”)38:30 : The final resultHere is the clip of Kevin Heart falling and his failed Ferragamo shoes. In the video you can clearly see that the soles are glued on one piece rubber soles and heels, with no welting or nailing holding the soles and heels on, only adhesive.Warning, there are a few F-bombs in Kevin’s video.youtu.be/A4Am81zjEQcFor Pure Polish Products go to www.PurePolishProducts.com.For Saphir products go to www.TheHangerProject.com or www.TheElagantOxford.com.Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:1. "Discofunque" by Francis Preve 2. "Elite Syncopations" by E's Jammy Jams 3. "Fond Memories" by SYBS 4. "Stuff" by Otis McDonald
36? Yr Old SHELL CORDOVAN Florsheim Imperial B4 & After SHORT Robert Powers 2020-10-26 | This a SHORTER version of a video I already posted. I'm trying to see if shorter videos do better since the channel has stagnated a little. This video is a before & after of a pair of Shell Cordovan Florhseim Imperial wingtip tassel loafers model 33850 that I believe were made in 1984. They are in amazing condition for a 36 year old shoe! I found them at a thrift store. First, I wiped them off with a damp cloth, then cleaned and conditioned them with Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing, and brushed them vigorously for about 25-30 minutes. I then applied 2 coats of Pure Polish High Shine Paste / Wax Polish on the toes only per Andy's (the owner of Pure Polish) instructions in the video linked below.High Shine Paste / Wax Polish from: www.PurePolishProducts.comLexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing (Amazon, eBay, etc)Some relavant videos:"Mirror Shining Vintage Shell Cordovan Bluchers" by Andy Vaughn of Pure Polish:youtu.be/Ihb1biHc-jk"Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?":youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE"How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather"youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1":youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Part 2":youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY"Leather Talk with Phil from Ashland/Horween Part 3":youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":youtu.be/zmAiQnikdioMusic Credit:"Rediscover" (original instrumental) by Aq Xico, used with PermissionYouTube Audio Library:"Jumpin' Boogie Woogie" by Audionautix"Hello Mr Princeton" by Otis McDonald"Fond Memories" by SYBS
36? Yr Old SHELL CORDOVAN Florsheim Imperial Before & After Robert Powers 2020-10-06 | This video is a before & after of a pair of Shell Cordovan Florhseim Imperial wingtip tassel loafers model 33850 that I believe were made in 1984. They are in amazing condition for a 36 year old shoe! I found them at a thrift store. First, I wiped them off with a damp cloth, then cleaned and conditioned them with Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing, and brushed them vigorously for about 25-30 minutes. I then applied 2 coats of Pure Polish High Shine Paste / Wax Polish on the toes only per Andy's (the owner of Pure Polish) instructions in the video linked below.High Shine Paste / Wax Polish from: www.PurePolishProducts.comLexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing (Amazon, eBay, etc)Some relavant videos:"How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather"youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y"Mirror Shining Vintage Shell Cordovan Bluchers" by Andy Vaughn of Pure Polish:youtu.be/Ihb1biHc-jk"Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?":youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1":youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Part 2":youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY"Leather Talk with Phil from Ashland/Horween Part 3":youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":youtu.be/zmAiQnikdioMusic Credit:"Rediscover" (original instrumental) by Aq Xico, used with PermissionYouTube Audio Library:"Jumpin' Boogie Woogie" by Audionautix"Hello Mr Princeton" by Otis McDonald"Fond Memories" by SYBS
