Gentlemans Gazette
Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits
updated
#insole #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
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→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/darkbrown-beige-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Does “Made In” Matter?: https://gentl.mn/countries-origin1
→ John Lobb - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/john-lobb-review
→ Edward Green Dress Shoes - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/shoes-review-edward-green
→ How To Sew On A Button: https://gentl.mn/how-to-sew-button
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney & Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ 20th Century Fox
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Carmina
→ Paul Glenn & J & FJ Baker
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00:00 Insoles: Introduction
Series chronicle creation of a bespoke pair of shoes from start to finish with shoemaker Amara. We’ll talk about insoles – how it is attached to the last, how it is cut, how it is shaped and how the channels are added so the shoe comes together as a whole.
00:39 What Are Insoles?
Insoles are the heart of the shoe providing connecting point between uppers and outer soles and are essential for the comfort and structure of the overall shoe.
Now, that’s true for bespoke shoes, but the vast majority of men’s shoes and even men's dress shoes off the rack have low-quality insole. For my soles, Amara is using JR, or Johann Rendenbach leather.
03:20 A Word on Liners
04:16 Beginning the Insoles
05:17 Tacking & Tying the Insoles to the Last
07:15 Trimming the Excess Leather
Now that the lasts are “gift wrapped,” they have to rest, the insole has to dry, and at the end of the process, it will have the exact shape of the bottom and the last. Once Amara leaves the shoes to dry for several days, it’s time to trim the leather.
09:17 Shaping the Instep
Your shoemaker will likely reference the measurements just so they get everything right. Amara applies water to the leather so she can carefully shape the area of the instep. She uses glass instead of sandpaper because it is faster and more efficient and, therefore, the shoe will cost less.
11:43 Softening, Finishing & Inspecting the Edges
During this work, you may end up with sharp edges that could penetrate the lining later, which is why Amara softens them, so it won’t be an issue later on. The tool she uses here is called an “edger.”
13:03 Creating the Holdfast
It’s time to make the holdfast, which refers to the portion of the insole next to the channel. It has been carefully carved out and is perforated with holes.
17:29 Conclusion
Now that the insoles of the last are fully channeled, we can put the upper onto the last but that will come in our next video!
#peccary #gloves #notsponored
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→ Peccary Gloves Cashmere Lined in Chamois Yellow: https://gentl.mn/peccary-gloves-in-chamois-yellow
→ Brown and Blue Peccary Gloves: https://gentl.mn/brown-blue-peccary-gloves
→ Peccary Gloves Unlined in Grey: https://gentl.mn/peccary-gloves-unlined-in-grey
→ Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/shadow-stripe-socks-dark-brown-beige
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Cordovan Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/expensive-cordovan-leather
→ Chromed Tanned vs. Vegetable Tanned Leather: https://gentl.mn/chrome-vs-vegtanned-leather
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: Jack Collins
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Peccary Leather
→ Chester Jefferies
→ Dents
→ Bulang and Sons
→ Carmina
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00:00 Peccary Leather Introduction
You’ve probably heard of certain types of leather. With calfskin and suede being some of the most commonly used in the manufacture of leather goods and exotic skins such as crocodile or alligator leather commanding extremely high prices.
But there’s one type of leather that is becoming increasingly less common and therefore more expensive: Peccary leather.
01:00 What is Peccary Leather?
Peccary leather comes from the Peccary animal. They are a hoofed, pig-like mammals, reaching a medium size of about 35 to 52 inches in length when fully grown. Unlike cattle, the Peccary isn’t widely kept and bred for use in various industries like the meat trade. In order to protect from overhunting and harvesting, there are some extremely strict regulations about how and where Peccaries can be hunted.
02:13 How is Peccary Leather Made?
The first step is to harvest the skins either through the process of a scheduled hunt or through a hatchery center’s harvesting regimen. Next up, the skins are weighed to ensure even tanning. Drums are then used to tan the Peccary leather. After the skins have been tanned, they are then shaved down to an even thickness. When the skins are clean and hair free, they are left to dry. When the skins are dried, they are graded in numbers from I, II, III, and IV.
05:38 Qualities of Peccary Leather
Because Peccary leather commands high prices, it really pays to understand what you’re looking at, so you can spot the genuine article when shopping for Peccary goods: 1. Possibility of scars or blemishes
2. Distinct three-pronged pore structure that is visible throughout the skin
3. Matte finish.
4. Soft, supple feel
5. Durability
08:40 Best Uses for Peccary Leather
Peccary leather isn’t good for larger items or garments such as jackets or furniture pieces. Gloves are the number one use for Peccary leather. For decades, Peccary has been the undisputed king of glove leathers.
You’ll find small leather goods is usually where Peccary leather can be seen – wallets, watch straps, keyrings, business card cases, and the like are candidates for perfect Peccary uses, as they allow for single pieces to be cut from the Peccary hides without having to patchwork them together
09:10 Why Is Peccary Leather So Expensive?
The manufacture of Peccary leather is not only strictly regulated, but on an extremely small scale when compared to other leather manufacturers. Great care must be taken throughout the manufacturing process to ensure the best possible grade of the hide is achieved. Once the leather arrives with the leather goods maker, it requires a highly skilled craftsperson to create a beautiful product. And if you take care of your Peccary leather goods, you likely won’t have to replace them.
10:05 Outfit Rundown
#outfit #suits #notsponsored
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→ Light Blue Linen Pocket Square with Blue X Stitch: https://gentl.mn/lightblue-linen-pocketsquare-xstitch
→ Herringbone Scarf in Mustard Yellow & Grey: https://gentl.mn/herringbone-scarf-mustard-yellow
→ Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls: https://gentl.mn/eagleclaw-cufflinks-lapis-lazuli
→ Houndstooth Bourette Silk Tie in Burgundy Red Cream: https://gentl.mn/houndstooth-bourette-tie-red-cream
→ Collar Bar with Ball End in Gold: https://gentl.mn/collar-bar-ball-end-gold01
→ Midnight Blue & Burgundy Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/midnight-blue-burgundy-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Top 7 Tailoring Tips For Menswear: https://gentl.mn/top-tailoring-tips
→ How A Suit Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/suit-should-fit01
→ How A Shirt Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/dress-shirt-should-fit
→ Suit Alterations: https://gentl.mn/suit-alterations01
→ Mad Men Got It Wrong?: https://gentl.mn/mad-men-menswear-reaction
→ 6 Layering Tips: https://gentl.mn/layering-clothes
→ Dress Sneakers - Timeless or Trend?: https://gentl.mn/dress-sneakers01
→ 5 Must-Have Shoes: https://gentl.mn/5-must-have-shoes
→ Spectator Shoe Guide: https://gentl.mn/spectator-shoe-guide
→ JLC - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/jlc-reverso-watch01
→ What It Means To Be A Gentleman Today: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-what-it-means-today01
→ Pairing Watches & Outfits: https://gentl.mn/what-watch-to-wear1
→ Definitive Guide To Cufflinks: https://gentl.mn/cufflinks-definitive-guide1
→ Ring Meanings For Each Finger: https://gentl.mn/rings-on-each-finger
→ Signet ring Primer: https://gentl.mn/signet-ring1
→ Pinky Ring Guide: https://gentl.mn/pinky-ring1
→ How To Combine Shoes + Socks + Pants: https://gentl.mn/combine-shoes-socks-pants1
→ The Dress Socks Guide: https://gentl.mn/dress-socks-guide1
→ Persol Sunglasses - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/persol-sunglasses01
→ Why Did Men Stop Wearing Hats?: https://gentl.mn/men-stop-wearing-hats-01
→ Get The Right Hat: https://gentl.mn/right-hat-for-face-shape
→ Wear Classic Hats Confidently: https://gentl.mn/styling-classic-hats01
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ EON Productions
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ AMC
→ Warner Bros.
→ ITV
→ The List
→ HBO
→ Netflix
→ Nepenthesny.com
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00:00 Outfit Upgrades Introduction
When preparing an outfit, it helps to know a few tips and tricks. We’re talking about styling tips, choices, and accessories that take a perfectly serviceable basic look. Taking the time to enhance a basic outfit will make it easier for you to craft unique ensembles. These enhancements also improve the adaptability of your clothes giving every item in your wardrobe new pop and sparkle.
00:48 What is a Basic Outfit?
A basic outfit is any outfit that features a minimal number of essential elements and no extraneous detailing. A basic outfit can vary based on the styling. For Contemporary Casual Style, a basic look could be as simple as sneakers, jeans, and a tee shirt. In our preferred Classic Style, a basic outfit requires a few more elements.
02:25 9 Basic Outfit Enhancements: 1. Tailoring
03:00 2. Layering & Accessorizing
05:48 3. Switch Out Your Shoes (Or Laces)!
08:24 4. Incorporate a Wristwatch
10:00 5. Add Some Jewelry
13:10 6. Tasteful Ties
14:08 7. Upgrade Your Socks
15:35 8. Put On Some Shades
16:45 9. Wear a Hat!
What do you think about our list? Would our suggestions help enhance your basic outfits? And what are your personal favorite ways to enhance an outfit? Let us know in the comments below!
18:30 Outfit Rundown
#gloves #leather #notsponsored
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→ Shadow Stripe Socks Light Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-light-brown-blue-01
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Men's Gloves Definitive Guide: https://gentl.mn/gloves-guide-01
→ Why Did Men Stop Wearing Hats?: https://gentl.mn/men-stop-wearing-hats01
→ Menswear expert Reviews - Peaky Blinders: https://gentl.mn/menswear-review-peaky-blinders01
→ $30 Gloves vs. $300 Gloves: https://gentl.mn/30-vs-300-usd-gloves
→ Classic Not Costumey: https://gentl.mn/vintage-goods-classic-style1
→ Driving Gloves Guide: https://gentl.mn/driving-gloves-guide1
→ Why Did Men Stop Wearing White Tie: https://gentl.mn/men-stop-wearing-white-tie1
→ How To Pair Overcoats With Gloves & Scarves: https://gentl.mn/pair-overcoats-gloves-scarves01
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ UGC
→ Netflix
→ NASS
→ EON Productions
→ ThamesTV
→ Disney
→ Warner Bros.
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Theintelligeneer
→ Southerspaces.org
→ National Park Services
→ Vintage Dancer
→ Rare Historical Photos
→ Finger Lakes Times
→ Messy Nessy Chick
→ FAULT Magazine
→ Flashback
→ Phaidon
→ Fortune
→ The New Bedford Light
→ AliExpress
→ Pennsbury Manor
→ Lions Gate Films
→ The Double Take Girls
→ Go Retro!
→ New York Magazine
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00:00 Colorful Gloves Introduction
While gloves worn for warmth remain a common feature in menswear, especially in cold climates. You’ve probably noticed that most of those gloves are pretty utilitarian with bulky, thick bodies in bland colors like black or dark gray. These gloves are a far cry from the colorful, fine gloves that were once common in menswear.
These colorful gloves were often called day gloves. Because they were worn during the day as part of regular attire and were distinct from formal evening gloves.
01:35 → Gloves as Class Marker
02:54 → Environmental Evolution
04:07 → From Fashion to Functionality
06:02 → Day Gloves Become Formal and Superfluous
06:59 → Cost and Quality: Modern Glove Production
08:20 → Cartoons and Caricatures Featuring Gloves
10:00 → Gendered Gloves
10:39 The Decline in Overall Glove-Wearing
We’ll briefly conclude by noting that the decline in the use of day gloves parallels a decline in other forms of non-utilitarian men's gloves. We’ll briefly conclude by noting that the decline in the use of day gloves parallels a decline in other forms of non-utilitarian men's gloves.
11:10 Conclusion
We have no intention of leaving you on a sad note as we conclude our examination of why men stopped wearing colorful day gloves. So to brighten the mood and add some color, we’ll say that just because colorful gloves have fallen out of favor doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wear them!
Not only can modern-day gloves keep your hands warm, but they also remain the perfect accessory for adding unexpected visual interest or a dash of color to any outfit. We think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how much a pair of colorful day gloves can change the overall look of your wardrobe.
12:17 Outfit Rundown
#blacktie #stylemistakes #notsponsored
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→ Black Silk Socks: https://gentl.mn/black-silk-socks-1
→ Red Carnation Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/red-carnation
→ Black Bow Tie in Silk Faille Grosgrain: https://gentl.mn/black-bow-tie-faille-grosgrain
→ Grosgrain Cummerbund in Black Silk: https://gentl.mn/grosgrain-cummerbund-black-silk
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/tuxedo-black-tie-guide2
→ Suit vs Tuxedo Style Differences: https://gentl.mn/suit-vs-tuxedo
→ White Tie Dos & Don'ts: https://gentl.mn/white-tie1
→ Jaeger-LeCoutre - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/jlc-reverso
→ Rolex - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/rolex-watches3
→ Pairing Watches & Outfits: https://gentl.mn/watch-to-wear
→ Bond's Best Looks: https://gentl.mn/favorite-jamesbond-looks
→ Black Tie Optional Dress Code Explained: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-optional1
→ Shirt Stud Definitive Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-shirt-studs
→ French Cuffs: https://gentl.mn/french-cuffs-shirts
→ How To Tie A Bow Tie: https://gentl.mn/pull-off-a-bow-tie
→ Thrift Shopping Tips: https://gentl.mn/thrift-store-guide
→ The Most Overrated Color in Menswear: https://gentl.mn/overrated-color-black
→ Trilby, Homburg & Pork Pie Hat Guide: https://gentl.mn/trilby-homburg-pork-pie-hat-1
→ Preston Schlueter Sings!: https://gentl.mn/preston-sings-jazz-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ BBC
→ Lionsgate
→ Gentleman's Guru
→ MGM
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Savvy Formalwear Atlanta
→ MGM
→ Permanent Style
→ The Plunge
→ Men's Wearhouse
→ Charles Tyrwhitt
→ British GQ
→ Equanavietnam.com
→ Eton Shirts
→ Tuxedo & Suit Rental
→ The Knot
→ Generation Tux
→ Jim's Formal Wear
→ Oscar's Tux
→ The Black Tux
→ Gentwith.com
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00:00 Black Tie Mistakes Introduction
As one of the most formal dress codes, you are likely to wear in your life. Black Tie has fairly strict rules to help guide you in looking captivating and looking correct for the occasion.
These 10 mistakes are some of the most common and most aggravating and have prevented many ensembles from achieving the lofty ideals of classic Black Tie.
01:18 Mistake #1: Wearing the Wrong Suit
04:03 Mistake #2: Wearing the Wrong Watch
05:57 Mistake #3: Wearing the Wrong Shoes
07:57 Mistake #4 Wearing the Wrong Shirt
09:35 Mistake #5: Wearing the Wrong Tie
11:15 Mistake #6: Renting a Tuxedo
13:28 Mistake #7: Focusing Only on the "Black" in "Black Tie"
14:55 Mistake #8: Mixing Up Midnight Blue
17:20 Mistake #9: Disregarding Details
20:13 Mistake #10 Wearing Loud Black Tie Instead of Proud Black Tie
If forewarned is forearmed, you’ve now got access to an arsenal of information that's sure to defeat these mischievous mistakes that could otherwise ruin your Black Tie ensemble. We hope that being aware of these mistakes will encourage you to wear a Black Tie more often. After all, by far the worst mistake you can make when it comes to Black Tie is not wearing it at all.
22:20 Outfit Rundown
#pufferjacket #menswear #notsponsored
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→ Peccary Gloves Cashmere Lined in Chamois Yellow: https://gentl.mn/peccary-yellow-gloves-lined
→ British Racing Green Off White Driving Gloves: https://gentl.mn/green-offwhite-driving-gloves
→ Caramel & Dark Burgundy Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/caramel-burgundy-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Quilted Jacket Guide: https://gentl.mn/quilted-jackets-guide
→ Men's Gloves Definitive Guide: https://gentl.mn/gloves-guide01
→ Thrift Shopping Tips: https://gentl.mn/tips-tricks-thrift-shopping
→ Moncler Jackets - Is It Worth it?: https://gentl.mn/moncler-jackets01
→ Canada Goose jackets - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/canada-goose-jackets01
→ Barbour Waxed Cotton Jackets - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/barbour-jacket
→ Belstaff Trailmaster Jacket - Is It Worth it?: https://gentl.mn/belstaff-trialmaster1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Sony Pictures
→ Universal Pictures
→ Drake
→ Disney
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Puffer Jacket Introduction
Recent years within the world of menswear have seen an uprising in the use of puffer jackets and coats or as they’re also known, “down jackets”.
While wearing a coat when it’s cold certainly isn’t a new idea, what we’ve noticed is a growing amount of people choosing to wear puffer jackets pretty much whenever they feel like it, not only are they seen as an extension of streetwear, but we’re even beginning to see an adoption of the puffer jacket over tailored garments and other elements of classic menswear.
00:52 What is a Puffer Jacket?
In simple terms, a down or puffer jacket consists of a simple coat constructed from waterproof fabric and filled with either goose or duck feathers.
02:23 Puffer Jacket History
The creation of the puffer jacket is widely credited to George Finch. An Australian chemist and mountain climber who, in 1922, crafted a coat out of balloon cloth and eiderdown feathers. Fourteen years later, in 1936, another version of the puffer jacket was created by Eddie Bauer. The following year, a similar jacket with a down-dilled design was created by haute couture designer Charles James.
Puffer jackets continued to enjoy popularity throughout the following decades.
04:39 Can I Wear a Puffer Jacket if I Love Classic Style?
After all, the type of classic style we all love has more to do with looking elegant, refined, and sophisticated. It’s rare to see anything chunky or obviously practical in the realms of classic style.
06:16 Wearing a Puffer Jacket Classically
Think of things like a well-cut pair of denim jeans, where two items of clothing born out of practical needs complement each other well. And there are also sweaters and other knitwear items that you can consider pairing with a puffer jacket.
Should denim be too casual for your tastes, then why not try another classic winter wardrobe staple; corduroy trousers. A pair of these sturdy pants will see you through the colder months very well, and the subtle ribbing would complement the lines present on a puffer jacket.
08:10 Puffer Jacket Alternatives: Parka
09:07 Waxed Cotton Jacket
09:52 Duffle Coat
10:28 So, Timeless or Trend?
What is prevalent in the world of puffer jackets is their ability to be used as a way of being, well, trendy. Therefore, we’re going to have to rule that puffer jackets are a trend if you’re a lover of classic style.
I’m curious, given what we’ve explored about puffer jackets today, where do you stand on the topic? Do you agree with our assessment that they’re a trend? e you on the side of timeless?
11:39 Outfit Rundown
#dresscode #menswear #notsponored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Light Grey & Light Blue: https://gentl.mn/light-grey-blue-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Dress Code Primer: https://gentl.mn/dress-code-primer01
→ Formality Scale: https://gentl.mn/formality-scale01
→ Cost Per Wear: https://gentl.mn/cost-per-wear02
→ 15 Budget Dressing Tips: https://gentl.mn/dress-suit-budget-15-tips1
→ White Tie Dos & Don’ts: https://gentl.mn/dos-donts-white-tie01
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/tuxedo-black-tie01
→ Smart casual Dress Code: https://gentl.mn/smart-casual-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Denis Shiryaev
→ EON Productions
→ DC Comics
→ Paramount
→ PBS
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ New Hampshire Historical Society
→ Timeline
→ History Extra
→ Lincoln Collection
→ Virginia Historical Society
→ Flexsuits
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00:00 End of Dress Codes Introduction
Dress codes seem to hardly even be employed nowadays. And when they are present, it seems as though they are not well understood or enforced. Likewise, social forces that previously mandated dress codes have largely disappeared. But does this progress necessitate the death of dress codes entirely?
01:16 Dress Code History
Written and unwritten codes of dress have existed for millennia but during the 19th century, seismic social change altered existing class structures. Knowledge of acceptable codes of dress became an especially favored tool for distinguishing “those who belong”.
05:08 5 5 Key Factors: 1. Dress Codes Seem Confusing
07:29 2. Modern Dress Code “Innovations” Are Confusing
09:30 3. Dress Codes Are Perceived As Burdensome Or Unfair
10:47 4. Dress Codes Are Becoming Harder To Enforce
13:15 5. Dress Codes Are Perceived As Exclusionary
14:40 What's Our Verdict?
Despite all of these impediments, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette can nevertheless say with complete confidence that dress codes do not deserve to die. Dress codes still serve many important functions in Classic Menswear. And those functions have evolved far beyond the exclusionary origins of dress codes.
In summary, we believe that dress codes do deserve to exist today when they’ve used not as a tool to exclude but rather to help everyone at a gathering and join themselves more.
19:15 Outfit Rundown
#whitetie #menswear #notsponsored
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→ White Tie in Marcella Pique Bow Tie Self Tie Butterfly: https://gentl.mn/white-tie-marcella-pique-bow-tie
→ Burgundy Carnation Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-carnation-flowerlapel
→ White Linen Pocket Square: https://gentl.mn/white-linen-pocket-square-2
→ Over The Calf in Black Silk Socks: https://gentl.mn/over-the-calf-black-silk-socks
→ Black Barathea Evening Shoelaces: https://gentl.mn/black-evening-shoelaces
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Downtown Abbey Got It Wrong?: https://gentl.mn/downton-abbey-menswear
→ Menswear Expert Reviews - Peaky Blinders: https://gentl.mn/peaky-blinders-menswear
→ Who was Beau Brummell?: https://gentl.mn/beau-brummell1
→ Morning Dress: https://gentl.mn/morning-dress-dresscode
→ Classic Not Costumey: https://gentl.mn/Classic-not-costumey
→ Cost Per Wear: https://gentl.mn/cost-per-wear01
→ Restaurant Etiquette: https://gentl.mn/etiquette-restaurant1
→ How to Spot A Cheap Suit: https://gentl.mn/spot-a-cheap-suit1
→ How To Fasten Button Boots: https://gentl.mn/button-boots-guide1
→ How A Suit Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/suit-should-fit
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-guide01
→ Brooks Brothers - What To Buy & What To Avoid: https://gentl.mn/brooks-brothers01
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ PBS
→ Bare Feet with Mickela Mallozza
→ Disney
→ 20th Television
→ Nobel Prize
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Vogue
→ Vintage Everyday
→ MET Museum
→ Fashion Institute of Technology
→ V & A
→ George Stuart Historical Figures
→ Society6.com
→ Antiquestradegazette.com
→ CBS News
→ Harper’s BAZAAR
→ Glamour
→ Bespoke Unit
→ Chicago Symphony Orchestra
→ H&M
→ Flashbak
→ Vicki Archer
→ Voxsartoria
→ PennLive
→ The National WWII Museum
→ GQ
→ Esquire
→ Zimbio
→ Southern Weddings
→ LuxLifeLondon
→ Columbia Productions
→ Warner Bros.
→ Bloomberg
→ Robert’s Tuxedos
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Men Stopped Wearing White Tie Introduction
White Tie was once a mandatory dress code for certain social classes on certain occasions. Nowadays seems like period shows like Downton Abbey, Peaky Blinders, Boardwalk Empire, the Vienna Opera Ball, and a few other high society events are the only places you see White Tie anymore.
01:30 History of White Tie
White Tie evolved during periods of strict social and class regimentation. People of certain classes identified by how they dressed and knew what to wear and when. Traditionally clothes were changed to differentiate day from evening clothes with special emphasis on dinner clothes.
05:10 8 Factors: 1. Historic Silhouette
06:42 2. White Tie is Restrictive
09:13 3. It’s a (Literally) Restrictive Dress Code
11:03 4. White Tie I s Hard To Put On Without Help!
13:06 5. White Tie Is Considered To Be Classist
15:28 6. White Tie Requires Proper Tailoring
17:41 7. There are Few Occasions to Wear It
19:37 8. The Rise of Black Tie
White Tie may no longer be de rigueur for dinnertime but despite its decline in popularity, it is an enchanting and unique dress code. When you have the opportunity to wear it, we hope you seize it because it really is a special experience.
22:20 Outfit Rundown
#uppers #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-gray-stripe-socks1
→ Vintage Pink Shoelaces Round: https://gentl.mn/vintage-pink-shoelaces-round01
→ Dark Grey Shoelaces Round: https://gentl.mn/dark-grey-shoelaces-round
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Best Men’s Dress Shoes: https://gentl.mn/best-dress-shoes01
→ Oxfords, Not Brogues?: https://gentl.mn/kingsman-style-review01
→ Cutting Apart $285 Wallet: https://gentl.mn/cutting-apart-inside-wallet01
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ 20th Century Fox
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com
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00:00 Finishing the Uppers Introduction
Episode 6 of our series on bespoke shoes, where we show you how shoemaker Amara Hark Weber is making a pair of shoes from start to finish by hand, is all about sewing together the uppers.
00:30 Skiving (Thinning) the Leather
The process of thinning out the edges, so there will be no bulging later on, and everything looks smooth and neat. This process of thinning out the leather is especially important, where the leather is folded or where it’s layered.
02:46 Broguing
Amara does the broguing by hand, which allows her to be more detailed, and consistent, and with a diamond brogue, it requires individual special attention.
05:50 Readying the Pieces
Amara puts the heel counter and the quarters together, then the quarters, and then the vamps. Then, she joins them around the facings. Essentially, it’s like creating a back of the uppers, and then a front, and then you combine them at last.
06:41 Backing Strips & Piping
Typically, when you do broguing, you also have some kind of backing that will show underneath those holes that you just punched out. Sometimes, it can be leather, and other times it can be fabric. Some people even like to play with a contrasting fabric to be really loud.
09:34 Connecting the Uppers & Facings
It’s time to handle the facings. These are the portion of the uppers where you find the lace holes in. The facings are particularly under a lot of stress, because that’s where you have your thin shoelaces, and some people may really pull hard in their laces.
12:41 Working with the Lining
Before inserting the lining into the uppers, Amara made it all wet, which helps the lining adhere to the uppers to make sewing it together easier. Wetting the leather alone isn’t enough, so she actually uses some clips to hold it in place. Once everything is wet and clipped, though, it can be sewn.
14:33 Preparing the Tongue & Throat
The tongue is prepared in are very similar way as the facings. Distances are checked with a spacer, leather is punched, pads are cut out, and then skived. Amara then prepares the uppers. She draws a full line at the throat to ensure it has proper width and comfort.
15:21 Punching the Eyelets
One of the most nerve-wracking parts of the whole thing. That’s because once it’s punched, it’s set. If it doesn’t align, back to square one. To reinforce the eyelets, you will sometimes see metal grommets. Sometimes, they’re just visible from the lining side, sometimes it is also visible from the outside, but that’s typically something you only find in more rugged, casual boots; not in a fine Oxford dress shoe.
16:10 Attaching the Tongue
Amara prepares the tongue lining. Sometimes, you can also add a little bit of foam in between the lining and the tongue upper to provide extra cushioning and comfort. Then, she glues the lining and sews it, then trims off excess pieces after it’s sewn.
17:01 Stay Stitches
There are little stitches that are meant to hold movable parts of the shoe in place over time. Amara uses three; one in the middle and one on each side. Again, every shoemaker may be a little different here. You can see her using an awl to poke the central hole.
17:40 Checking the Laces
Finally, we can add a shoelace and see if the eyelets were punched properly in the right place because if they don’t align, and the lines are not parallel or off, you’re not going to want to wear this shoe.
#date #clothing #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Madder Silk Tie in Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats Pattern: https://gentl.mn/tie-green-macclesfield-neats
→ Navy Socks with Blue and White Clocks: https://gentl.mn/navy-socks-with-blue-white-clocks
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown and Beige: https://gentl.mn/socks-dark-brown-beige-stripe
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ How To Get Ready For A Date: https://gentl.mn/get-ready-for-a-date1
→ Acceptable Wear and Tear: https://gentl.mn/wear-tear-clothing
→ Ranking Creed Fragrances: https://gentl.mn/creed-cologne-ranking
→ Cologne Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-to-cologne
→ How to Combine Shoes + Socks + Pants: https://gentl.mn/combine-shoes-socks-pants
→ Men's Jewelry Dos & Dont's: https://gentl.mn/dos-donts-jewelry
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Permanent Style
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00:00 NEVER Wear on a Date Introduction
Dating is stressful for everyone and on top of everything else to worry about you also have to get dressed!
By avoiding the pitfalls on our list, you'll have one less thing to worry about when preparing for your date and you’ll improve your chances of having a great evening. Please note that this list was created with Classic Style in mind so it’s possible, based on your personal style of dress that some of these items could work for you.
00:57 1. Damaged, dirty, or smelly clothes
01:58 2. Ill-fitting clothes
02:40 3. Too much cologne
03:20 4. Clothes that are too casual or too formal
04:36 5. Athletic Wear or athleisure
05:22 6. The wrong shoes
06:12 7. Overly branded clothing
06:47 8. Excessive jewelry
07:28 9. Unusally bold items
08:46 10. Fussy clothing
We hope that you’ve noticed a consistent throughline in our list. When dressing for a date, opt for clothes that fit your style, fit the occasion and make it clear that you went to special and conscientious effort with your clothes.
Ultimately, how we dress can reflect the respect we show to others, and respect will always be key to a successful date. So while we’re sorry that we can’t make all of dating easier for you, we hope that this list of what to avoid wearing will make dressing for dates a little more simple.
10:13 Outfit Rundown
#loropiana #cashmere #notsponsored
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→ Peccary Gloves Cashmere in Chamois Yellow: https://gentl.mn/peccary-gloves-cashmere-yellow
→ Grenadine Silk Tie in Burgundy Red: https://gentl.mn/grenadine-tie-in-burgundy
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-gray-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Cashmere Explained: https://gentl.mn/cashmere
→ True 1950s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/menswear-1950s-1
→ True 1960s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/menswear-1960s1
→ Remove Pilling From Clothes: https://gentl.mn/remove-pilling
→ Thrift Shopping Tips: https://gentl.mn/thrift-store-tips2
→ "Budget Cashmere" - Myth or Magic?: https://gentl.mn/budget-cashmere-1
→ Carmina - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/carmina-review1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ 20th Century Fox
→ Loro Piana
→ Insider
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Grailed.com
→ The Fashionable Truth
→ United Nations Development Programme
→ Agnes Select
→ Vogue Arabia
→ BOAT International
→ React News
→ Business Jargons
→ British Vogue
→ Highsnobiety
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Loro Piana Cashmere Introduction
When talking about luxury cashmere, Loro Piana may immediately come to mind, being a well-established Italian fabric brand.
Loro Piana today goes way past cashmere. They have vicuña from the Andes or lotus flowers. They have a large range of fabrics with wool from New Zealand, and they manufacture their own goods. But, chances are, if someone mentions “high-end cashmere,” they will have heard of Loro Piana.
02:15 The History of Loro Piana
Loro Piana was a family and they began as wool merchants in the Piedmont region of Italy around 1814. At that time, they simply imported completed fabrics. They didn’t weave anything themselves.
06:01 Loro Piana Today
Loro Piana remains to have two divisions. The one is fabric manufacturing, where they turn raw materials into fabric that isn’t either used by their own brand or sold outside. The other division is their garment and accessory manufacturing arm, where they use Loro Piana fabrics exclusively to create their own branded goods.
07:30 The Loro Piana Ethos
If you look at Loro Piana’s advertising, you can see it’s very simplistic, containing high-end photography in rare globe-trotting adventure locations with idealized clients that are supposed to invoke this lifestyle of a high-end jetsetter. Sometimes, they also feature the animals the fibers are derived from in the advertisements to portray themselves as an artisanal grade manufacturer that has a connection and that vertical integration between the animal and the final product.
08:48 Loro Piana Cashmere
Loro Piana is the single largest cashmere buyer in the world and also is credited with popularizing the fabric with the masses. If you check out their website, you can see that they mentioned that they have local relationships with herders to ensure the highest quality or the finest cashmere. But, if you look for more detail, it’s hard to find specific herding standards.
12:25 Loro Piana Styling
We think they usually have more of a neutral palette, lots of solids, and more contemporary, fashion-forward, not really classically-inspired style. Their outerwear is a bit more bright with a bit more color. We think the cut of their stuff isn’t particularly exciting or high-end.
14:05 Cashmere Products and Price
If you browse their website, you can see 100% cashmere products or blended products with silk, cotton, or wool. Overall, I would say the website provides more information than at, let’s say, Louis Vuitton, which is nice to see.
18:14 Is Loro Piana Cashmere Worth It?
In a nutshell, Loro Piana fabric is worth it if you want the best and you don’t care about money. It’s usually also worth it if you find it secondhand. But, if you go the extra mile and you want 100% cashmere, you probably also want the fit to be 100%, so chances are that you have to go custom anyway.
23:47 Outfit Rundown
#boots #essentials #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Light Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/lightbrown-blue-stripe-socks
→ Dark Grey Boot Laces Round: https://gentl.mn/dark-grey-boot-laces
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ 11 Must-Haves For Fall: https://gentl.mn/11-fall-must-haves
→ Cordovan Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/cordovan-leather1
→ Designing & Cutting Bespoke Shoe Uppers: https://gentl.mn/bespoke-uppers-design-cut
→ Guide to Chukka Boots: https://gentl.mn/guide-chukka-boots
→ Formality Scale: https://gentl.mn/the-formality-scale1
→ Chelsea Boot Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-chelsea-boots
→ Who Was Beau Brummell?: https://gentl.mn/beau-brummell-the-original-1
→ Belstaff Trailmaster Jacket - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/belstaff-trialmaster-jacket-2
→ Schott Perfecto - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/schott-perfecto-jacket
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ amera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ NBC
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Velasca
→ Scarosso
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 5 Essential Boots For Fall/Autumn Introduction
Fall can be a truly wonderful time of the year for menswear enthusiasts. But as much as the British love to chat about how bad the weather is, Fall is usually a very enjoyable season to dress in -- neither too hot nor too cold.
00:52 General Tip For Fall Footwear: 1. Materials make a difference
02:05 2. Pay attention to the soles
03:12 3. Pick the right boots for your situation
Applying these tips to the boots in today’s video means you’re guaranteed to be the most Fall-ready you’ve ever been!
03:36 Chukka Boots
Simple, easy to wear, and comfortable, the chukka boot is a menswear style staple but is especially welcome in a Fall wardrobe.
04:55 Chelsea Boots
Being a particularly sleek and stylish item, the Chelsea boot is unique in its ability to cross the realms of formal and casual attire. Of course, depending on the exact details.
06:35 Balmoral Boots
The absolute must-have boot if you’re a classic style enthusiast! With its origins in the 19th Century, the Balmoral boot was actually the everyday footwear choice for men.
08:10 Derby Boots
If you love the look of a Balmoral and want something to complement it for those in-between days, go for a Derby boot. Granted, this term might seem similar to that of a chukka boot, as this style is also somewhat broadly defined.
09:20 Jodhpur Boots
A slightly more unique style of boot but certainly no less stylish! It is similar to a Chelsea boot. Boasting a simple, elegant design but instead of an elastic gusset to hold your foot in, you’ll find a buckle and strap.
10:54 Conclusion
Whatever stage you’re at in your Fall boot collection, we hope you’ve enjoyed our suggestions for the essential styles. Are any of these boots new to you? Or are you a Fall boot fanatic? We’d love to hear from you in the comments!
11:05 Outfit Rundown
#denim #jeans #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Light Brown and Blue: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-light-brown-blue
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Levi’s - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/levis-jeans-1
→ 20th Century Fashion Fails: https://gentl.mn/fashion-fails-20thcentury
→ True 1960s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1960s-menswear-1
→ Menswear Expert Reviews - Wall Street: https://gentl.mn/menswear-review-wall-street-1
→ 80% Off Secret Process: https://gentl.mn/80-percent-off2
→ Gentlemen’s At-Home Attire: https://gentl.mn/gentlemen-at-home-attire
→ Is Quality Menswear Dying?: https://gentl.mn/quality-menswear-end-1
→ Cheap vs. Expensive Jeans: https://gentl.mn/cheap-vs-expensive-jeans1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ New Line Cinema
→ Lions Gate Films
→ 20th Century Fox
→ The Walt Disney Company
→ NBC
→ Atlantic Records
→ Blackhorse Lane Ateliers
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00:00 Introduction
It’s kind of true that if people want to dress up nowadays, there’s a high chance they’ll go for a pair of jeans as the foundation of their outfit. Granted, there are absolutely times where denim is the right choice for your going-out attire but there’s no denying that a pair of jeans have become the universal choice when it comes to a multitude of events.
01:11 Early History of Denim
There’s no denying that a pair of jeans have become the universal choice when it comes to a multitude of events where they were actually closer to overalls than the standard jeans models we’re used to seeing today.
For a decent portion of denim’s history, jeans were worn solely for manual labour and wouldn’t have ever been seen outside of these settings.
02:30 Counter-Culture and Casualization
Fast forward to around the 1960s and 70s. As much as these decades hold a few painful fashion memories, it’s worth noting that not everyone dressed like they were an extra on the set of an Austin Powers movie.
As the counter-culture movement of the 60s and 70s said “to heck with tasteful suits," you can see how jeans were first used as a way to stick it to the man but then became fashionable items themselves in the wild trends that dominated the mid-20th Century.
04:15 Comfort-First Thinking
For many, the 1980s was all about excess, exaggeration, and being incredibly bold. While people eschewed the flamboyant stylings of the previous decades for a return to classically inspired clothing for business, it’s the element of what you did when you weren’t at work that really boomed in this decade.
06:37 Where Things Stand Today
Since the 90s, we’ve been seeing a resurgence of chasing trends. Throughout the 90s and 00s, and up to today, what jeans look like has fluctuated both greatly and frequently. What’s safe to say is that jeans have soared in popularity since the new millennium.
With pretty much any style of denim pants becoming a-okay for any given situation and it’s easy to see the reason why, as jeans have become luxury items in their own right. Overly expensive jeans aren’t the only reason they’re considered fancy nowadays, though. There’s another 80s trend that’s contributed to the dressing down of the 21st Century – Athleisure.
09:32 Is There Hope For The Future?
Well, there are two things that give us hope that sartorial standards can be maintained moving forward: → Choosing Quality Denim. As suits and ties are being worn less nowadays, you may be interested in developing a passion for denim that is specifically designed with tailoring in mind.
→ Classic IS Comfortable! Comfort isn’t just based on how soft of luxurious something feels. Wearing clothing that’s appropriate for the occasion is guaranteed to make you feel comfortable internally. Well-fitting clothes in quality materials will feel just as comfortable as jeans or even athleisure.
11:08 What's Our Verdict?
Dress codes do still exist, and they do still matter but, the appropriateness of jeans has increased with the dawn of athleisure. Don’t be afraid to stretch a little further up the formality scale, too!
11:55 Outfit Rundown
#fountainpen #writing #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Light Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/stripe-ribbed-socks-light-brown-blue
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ 5 Best Mid-Range Fountain Pens: https://gentl.mn/best-midrange-fountain-pens
→ How To Write With A Fountain Pen: https://gentl.mn/fountain-pen-writing
→ Avoid These Fountain Pen Mistakes: https://gentl.mn/beginners-fountain-pen-mistakes
→ Write By Hand!: https://gentl.mn/hand-writing-penmanship
→ Letter & Card Writing Etiquette For Gentlemen: https://gentl.mn/lettercard-writing-etiquette
→ Reward Yourself!: https://gentl.mn/rewards-milestone
→ Guide to Fountain Pen: https://gentl.mn/guide-fountain-pen
→ Best Budget Fountain Pens: https://gentl.mn/best-inexpensive-fountainpens
→ Mont Blanc Pens - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/montblanc-fountain-pen1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ FLNK Feedsys
→ Conaire Group
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Cheap vs. Expensive Fountain Pens Introduction
Fountain pens can range in cost from under $5 to almost $100,000 and higher. How does one determine a reasonable price point? And what determines the differences between cheap and expensive fountain pens?
01:51 The Nib
The nib is a vitally important part of any fountain pen. The nib conveys ink onto the paper through capillary action, by which a liquid is propelled through the interaction between surface tension and adhesion.
Overall, nib size has an obvious aesthetic impact, but flexibility also impacts your ability to have lines of varying width. And nibs will also impact how favorably and cleanly the ink is spread onto the paper.
06:22 The Feed
The feed connects the nib to the ink reservoir. This is what allows ink to flow freely through the nib when it’s in contact with paper, but prevents ink from spilling out when you’re not using the pen. Basically, the ink flows into these channels through the capillary action that we mentioned previously.
When ink is flowing onto the paper, air from outside the pen is allowed to flow upward along the feed, bringing ink down from Ink storage.
When it comes to feeds then, construction is ultimately more important than material. A well-made plastic feed will function well enough for most writers’ needs, but an Ebonite feed represents a noticeable step up in quality that will definitely improve your writing experience.
09:23 The Body
The body of the pen is essentially just a container that holds all the components that actually make the pen function. Obviously, the body considerably impacts the appeal and aesthetics of the pen itself, but it also impacts the functionality of writing when it comes to balance and weight of the pen.
14:00 The Filling Mechanism
There are multiple ways to get ink into a pen, many of which come down to preference and personal taste.
Ultimately then, the filling mechanism is most important as it pertains to your convenience. Investing in a more expensive system will usually make the process easier for you and will also spare you the unpleasant cleanup associated with cheap and leaky pens.
16:50 The Ink
In a nutshell, cheap inks are kept cheap by cutting corners. Pigmentation is low, leading to runny, bland, and semi-transparent colors; cheap ink is poorly manufactured, so it can be sticky or prone to smudge on the page; and cheap ink will dry hard inside the pen, potentially gumming up the works
Expensive inks, on the other hand, will flow easily and lay neatly on the page; have good color fastness and endurance so they won’t fade with time, and come in various unique and memorable colors. Some of our favorite colors include rusty brown, sky blue, and dark green.
18:05 Conclusion
Now that you’ve learned the differences between cheap and expensive fountain pens, you’ll have the knowledge to determine which price point is best for you.
18:37 Outfit Rundown
#uppers #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
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GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ "Trial" Bespoke Shoes: https://gentl.mn/bespoke-trial-shoe
→ Designing Bespoke Shoes: https://gentl.mn/bespeaking-design-bespoke
→ Edward Green - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/edward-green-shoes
→ Allen Edmonds - Has Quality Decreased?: https://gentl.mn/value-review-allen-edmonds-shoes
→ Crocodile & Alligator Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-leather2
→ Chromed Tanned vs Vegetable Tanned Leather: https://gentl.mn/chrome-vs-veg-tanned-3
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ @gazianogirling
→ Wayman Bespoke
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00:00 Creating the Uppers the Uppers Introduction
Uppers are part of the shoe that covers the top and sides of the foot. The shape of the uppers dictates the overall style of the shoe as well as the comfort.
00:58 Necessary Tools
In order to create the uppers, we actually need quite a few tools; the most important ones, according to Amara, are really sharp knives. Sometimes they look like an X-Acto knife without the extensional blade.
02:24 Pattern Making
She needs a pencil for notation and a clear ruler. She also utilizes division makers or spacers to ensure that distances are kept and that everything looks neat in a final product. You also see a paddle or a honing strip to keep the knives sharp. Then, there are a number of plastic templates – also known as “French curves” – which make it easier to create a pleasing line on the patterns on the leather.
08:35 Designing Pattern and Broguing Details
You create a pattern first. How much time you actually spend discussing the individual pattern depends on the complexity of your design and your ideas.
14:53 Pattering the Tongue & Lace Holes
With this process, Amara helped me to keep track of the different angles, designs, and cutouts, so we could make sure the shoe overall was consistent.
16:40 Constructing the Pattern
Time to make the patterns that would allow Amara to cut it on leather. Amara cut off the tape from the last just like with a trial shoe, and then, she applied a paper backing to it to prevent any type of distortion. She cut the edges to help everything lay nice and flat. Amara pricked guide points in the pattern that allowed her to always easily line them up.
20:45 Paterring the Lining Leather & Structural Support
A structural support leather in a shoe is typically not something you find in most ready-to-wear shoes except more higher-end ones like Edward Green, for example.
22:40 Crafting the Tongue
Two methods. First, she could make it as a separate piece and then, later, stitch it in, or she could cut it out as one piece with the rest of the section.
23:14 Cutting the Leather - Clicking
Time to cut the leather. Historically, it has been called “clicking” because there’s a clicking sound the knife makes when it leaves the leather after cutting it. In the more modern times, you may also hear a click sound of the presses when they put pressure on the die, and it hits the leather.
26:13 How the Leather is Cut
Amara split the hide down the center because she said you should never cut a piece of upper across that center line. It stretched in a different way and that, overall, it wouldn’t be good for the final product.
28:42 Selecting & Cutting the Lining Leathers
Now it’s time for the lining, then we need the structural pieces, and then it all has to be assembled.
31:37 Conclusion
I think having witnessed the entire process, I have a much higher appreciation for the level of detail and craftsmanship that goes into such a shoe. Because the lining doesn’t really show on the outside, you don’t need the ultimate precision needed for the upper leathers. There’s also more excess that is then later trimmed off.
Overall, making and cutting the linings is quicker than the uppers by a long shot. So, now that the leathers are cut, they must be sewn together.
#minimalism #maximalism #notsponsored
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→ Madder Silk Tie in Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats: https://gentl.mn/green-macclesfield-neats-tie
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Gentlemen's Home Decor: https://gentl.mn/classics-interior-design
→ Restaurant Etiquette: https://gentl.mn/etiquette-restaurant
→ Guide to a Capsule Wardrobe: https://gentl.mn/guide-capsule-wardrobe
→ Hermes Belt - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/h-belt-review-1
→ Preston's Wardrobe Tour: https://gentl.mn/preston-closet-tour-1
→ How to Spot a Cheap Suit: https://gentl.mn/spot-a-cheap-suit
→ Sport Coat & Suit Jacket Difference: https://gentl.mn/suitjacket-sportcoat-blazer-difference
→ Overshirts & Shackets - Timeless or Trend?: https://gentl.mn/overshirt-shacket
→ My Winter Collection: https://gentl.mn/collection-winter-coat1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Lions Gate Films
→ Vintage Dancer
→ Anothermag.com
→ Themelower
→ Bloomberg
→ CNN
→ He Spoke Style
Timepiece provided by Delray Watch Supply
→ delraywatch.com
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00:00 Minimalism vs. Maximalism Introduction
If you’re a menswear enthusiast, then you’ve probably come across the terms minimalism and maximalism. Of course, the terms themselves aren’t related specifically to clothing and could be linked to pretty much anything.
00:50 What Do These Terms Mean?
When it comes to menswear, minimalism is all about reducing things. This can be done quite literally by having a minimal amount of clothes. Minimalism can also be done by virtue of the individual styling of an item of clothing. Minimalism applies to how the outfit itself is put together.
While maximalism is all about big and bold! That can apply directly to the item of clothing itself. Maximalism also takes into account the volume in an outfit and texture.
02:39 Minimalism & Maximalism Pros
Perhaps the biggest benefit of minimalism is how easy it is to get dressed not just conceptually, but practically too. It is also great if you have little in the way of physical wardrobe space. Finally, minimalism can be very stylish and timeless when done well.
Maximalism gives you the ability to create stunning outfits that will captivate others. It also allows you to indulge in many different areas of craftsmanship and provides you with more overall choice.
05:00 Minimalism & Maximalism Cons
You need to invest to do minimalism well. By virtue of the fact that you’ll have fewer patterns and features going on in a minimalist outfit, it will be immediately obvious if your clothes are of poor quality. As well as investing money, you’ll also have to invest more time in clothes maintenance. Unfortunately, minimalism can also look dated if done badly. Finally, dressing in a minimalist style may make others think that you don’t care about your appearance, or even that you look “dull”.
For maximalism, getting dressed can take a while! It can also be expensive. Another unfortunate part of the maximalist style is that people may think you’re overdressed. And it’s easy to do maximalism wrong.
08:33 How To Do It Well: Minimalism (Everyday)
09:35 Minimalism (Cold Weather)
10:32 Minimalism (Hot Weather)
11:00 Maximalism (Everyday)
11:40 Maximalism (Cold Weather)
12:15 Maximalism (Hot Weather)
Whether you feel you’re more closely aligned to minimalism or maximalism as a style, our hope is that we’ve made the case for both of these modes of dress. Typically, the golden age of classic style that we love so much at the Gentleman’s Gazette is more rooted in maximalism but you can still achieve minimalist style within the realm of classic style.
13:10 Outfit Rundown
#polkadots #patterns #notsponsored
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→ White Pocket Square with BluePolka Dots: https://gentl.mn/white-pocketsquare-blue-polka-dots
→ Tie in Jacquard Beige with Large White Polka Dots: https://gentl.mn/beige-tie-white-polka-dots
→ Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls: https://gentl.mn/silver-eagleclaw-cufflinks-lapis-lazuli
→ Light Blue & Midnight Blue Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/light-midnight-blue-solid-socks
→ Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/lightblue-veronicapersica-boutonniere
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Who Was Beau Brummell?: https://gentl.mn/the-original-beau-brummell
→ Black Tie Optional Dress Code Explained: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-optional-dresscode
→ Formality Scale: https://gentl.mn/formalityscale
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-tuxedo-guide1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Original Article: Dr. Christopher Lee
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Eon Productions
→ Jason Anderson
→ NBC Universal
→ Paramount Pictures
→ Warner Bros. Pictures
→ Disney
→ CBS Records International
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Modes4u.com
→ Britannica
→ National Geographic
→ Library of Dance
→ Fine Art America
→ Suzy Quilts
→ Cosmopolitan
→ Cocinor
→ The Village Sun
→ Gentleman's Guru
→ OTAA
→ Trap Fabricks
→ BooHooMan
→ Ben Sherman.co.uk
→ Simons
→ Lyst
→ Golf Locker
→ Weddingomania
→ Turnbull & Asser
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00:00 Polka Dots Introduction
There are many classic patterns in menswear. Polka dots might not be as common today as they were in the past but they are a versatile and visually interesting pattern with an impressive pedigree in Classic Menswear that can complement casual and formal outfits.
01:18 Defining Polka Dots
Polka dots are any array of circles often, but not always, of the same size arranged in a regular or irregular pattern. Many dot patterns in menswear can be considered subtypes of polka dots:
→ Pin Dots
→ Micro Dots
→ Macro Dots
02:45 History of Polka Dots
Dotted patterns were fairly uncommon for most of sartorial history. Because hand-sewing dots was a time and labor-intensive process and dots and spots were associated with skin diseases like the bubonic plague or leprosy.
Today, polka dots are often seen in more casual menswear articles. Polka dots also pop up in other settings for outfits that are intended to be dramatic and eye-catching. And of course, devotees of Classic Style have never forsaken polka dots. And in certain circles, polka dots are almost as common today as during the Golden Age of Menswear.
07:11 Considerations: 1. Dot Size
08:12 2. Dot Density
08:42 3. Dot Pattern
09:09 4. Dot Color
You can see that calculating overall formality requires taking into consideration every aspect of your polka dots. So, use your best judgment and the rules discussed to determine the overall formality of a polka-dotted article.
11:05 General Tips for Wearing Polka Dots
The beauty of polka-dotted accessories is how they lend themselves to numerous two- and three-color combinations. When wearing polka dots, be mindful of the Pattern scaling theory.
12:15 Wearing Polka Dots Casually
14:30 Wearing Polka Dots Formally
We hope that this video hasn’t left you seeing spots but has instead led you to see polka dots in a new light. Let us know how you like to wear polka dots in your outfits!
18:09 Outfit Rundown
#beard #groomingtips #notsponored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Wool Challis Tie in Turquoise with Gray, Orange, Navy & Yellow Pattern: https://gentl.mn/wool-challis-tie-in-turquoise-pattern
→ Rust Orange Linen Pocket Square with Dark Blue X Stitch: https://gentl.mn/rust-orange-linen-pocket-square
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-dark-brown-beige1
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ How To Grow Facial Hair & Beards: https://gentl.mn/grow-facial-hair-beards-1
→ Healthy Hair Tips or Men: https://gentl.mn/healthy-hair-tips-1
→ Best-Dressed Villains: https://gentl.mn/best-dressed-villains1
→ 12 Beard Grooming Products: https://gentl.mn/beard-grooming-products
→ Beard Care & Grooming Products & Tools: https://gentl.mn/beard-care-grooming
→ How To Trim A Beard: https://gentl.mn/how-to-trim-a-beard1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ New Line Cinema
→ Lions Gate Films
→ Weinstein Company
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ GQ
→ Beardbrand
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________________________________________________________________________
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00:00 Beard Grooming Tips Introduction
Beards have enjoyed a resurgence of popularity of late and are being worn by gentlemen who favor all varieties of dressing styles including our beloved Classic Style.
Our grooming tips will help you emphasize a neat appearance, sleek lines, clean texture and timeless style.
01:19 1. Wash Well
02:42 2. Comb & Brush Your Beard
04:43 3. Perfect Your Products
05:53 4. Timely Trimming and Conscientious Cutting
08:10 5. Fantastically Fade Your Neat Neckline
10:05 6. Start a Styling Sensation
10:44 7. Investigate Expert Opinions
While they may not have been common during the Golden Age of Menswear, we hope that today’s video inspires you to try out beards as part of your Classic Style journey.
11:50 Outfit Rundown
#tagheuer #watches #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Madder Silk Tie in Yellow with Diamond Pattern: https://gentl.mn/madder-tie-yellow-diamond-pattern
→ White Linen Pocket Square with Navy X Stitch: https://gentl.mn/white-pocket-square-navy-xstitch
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ 4 Watch Complications: https://gentl.mn/4-watch-complications
→ Omega - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/omega-watch-review1
→ How To Dress Like Steve Mcqueen: https://gentl.mn/steve-mcqueen1
→ Pairing Watches & Outfits: https://gentl.mn/watches-outfits
→ Affordable Luxury Watch Alternatives: https://gentl.mn/luxury-watch-alternatives1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Eon Productions
→ Apple
→ Newgadgets.de
→ 20th Century Studios
→ Rolex
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Tag Heuer
→ Chrono24
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________________________________________________________________________
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
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00:00 TAG Heuer Introduction
As you probably already know, the world of luxury watches has a few heavy hitters when it comes to iconic brands. We’re certainly not the first people to group these watch brands together and we probably won’t be the last either!
00:59 Heuer’s Early History
The company began as Uhrenmanufaktur* Heuer AG, and was founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer in St-Imier, Switzerland. What many people don’t know is what the name actually stands for: "Techniques d'Avant Garde" with the founder's surname thus giving us “TAG Heuer”.
03:49 Heuer At The Races
Heuer chronographs boomed in popularity from the 1950s to the 1970s as the choice of watches among automobile racers, whether professional or amateurs.
Heuer was the very first Swiss watchmaker in space, flying into orbit with John Glenn when he piloted the Mercury-Atlas 6 spacecraft. This was the first US crewed space flight to orbit the earth and the watch came into orbit as a wrist-mounted pocket watch.
05:44 Filling The Market
One thing Heuer’s history shows us is that they are very keen on innovation. Following the introduction of the Monaco in 1969, Heuer introduced the Chronosplit in 1975. This was a digital chronograph with dual LED and LCD displays with later versions featuring two LCD displays.
07:17 The Digital Age
The dawn of readily available smart technology in the mid-to-late-2000s caused an inevitable panic among luxury watchmakers. Always on the move, TAG Heuer announced the launch of their first smartwatch in 2015 named “TAG Heuer Connected”.
The watch runs on the Android Wear operating system used by many smartwatch brands. And also offers its own app, which principally offers several custom TAG Heuer watch faces. These include:
→ Three-Hand
→ Chronograph
→ GMT
→ Themed
→ and Ambassador
08:20 What's in a Name? (TAG Heuer vs. Heuer)
You might have noticed an inconsistency in the name. As TAG Heuer hasn’t always been known as, well, TAG Heuer! Companies with growth on the horizon rarely stay solely owned by one family and TAG Heuer is no exception to this.
09:17 So: Awesome or Average?
When you look at TAG Heuer’s history, it’s absolutely clear that this is a company that is passionate about innovation. Take the introduction of dive watches in 1978. It’s abundantly clear that this was Heuer’s attempt to corner a piece of the market that Rolex had already monopolized.
Whether you’re already a fan of TAG Heuer or just being introduced to them in this video, there’s no denying the company’s impressive history. So what are your thoughts on TAG Heuer, as a company, or purely for their watches?
11:03 Outfit Rundown
#conversation #mistakes #notsponsored
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GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ What It Means To Be A Gentleman Today: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-means-today1
→ Speak Like A Gentleman: https://gentl.mn/speak-like-a-gentleman1
→ How To Overcome Social Anxiety & Have A Great Conversation: https://gentl.mn/how-to-great-conversation
→ Body Language Etiquette: https://gentl.mn/body-language-etiquette1
→ How To Get To Know Someone: https://gentl.mn/get-to-know-someone1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Gramercy Pictures
→ Warner Bros. Entertainment
→ Paramount Pictures
→ Brooksfilms
→ Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios
→ Walk Disney Company
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00:00 Conversation Mistakes Introduction
If Michel de Montaigne (Mee-shell deh Mohn-tahn-ya) is correct that “The most fruitful and natural exercise for our minds is … conversation”, then we expect the modern gentleman to be a good conversationalist.
We do want to be clear that this video is not meant as an attack on people who find conservation difficult to make or follow. In particular, neurodivergent individuals like those with autism. Our only desire is to provide you with the tools to help improve your confidence while making conversation.
02:36 10 Mistakes in Your Conversations: 1. Not Paying Attention
04:04 2. Getting Your Phone Involved
06:08 3. Using Outdoor Voices Indoors
07:33 4. Interrupting Others
09:31 5. "Bulldozing" Others
10:55 6. Being A "Brick Wall"
12:40 7. Employing Antisocial Body Language
13:52 8. Overusing Small-Talk
15:00 9. Engaging In One-Upmanship
16:20 10. Not Reading The Room
17:41 One More Word
We also hope it goes without saying that a gentleman should never engage in conversation that unfairly demeans, degrades, or insults anyone. It should never be shocking and upsetting.
18:28 Conclusion
Armed with these ten rules we hope that you’ll feel empowered to really showcase your wit and charm. Avoiding these mistakes will ensure the excellence of your conversation. For as Somerset Maugham said, "Conversation is one of the greatest pleasures in life”.
19:20 Outfit Rundown
#jeans #expensive #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/dark-brown-beige-striped-socks
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Blazers + Jeans Outfit Ideas: https://gentl.mn/jackets-jeans-combinations1
→ Cost per Wear: https://gentl.mn/costperwear-equation1
→ Levis - is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/review-levis-jeans1
→ Cotton Explained: https://gentl.mn/about-cotton
→ Cheap & Easy Laundry Hacks: https://gentl.mn/cheap-easy-laundry-hacks
→ Dress Shoes + Jeans: https://gentl.mn/dress-shoes-jeans
→ Does "Made In" Matter?: https://gentl.mn/countries-origin-1
→ High-Waisted Pants: https://gentl.mn/low-mid-vs-high-rise-pants1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Walt Disney Company
→ NBC
→ David Bowie
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Vogue
→ The Kindcraft
→ GQ
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Cheap vs Expensive Jeans: Introduction
Jeans are a hard-wearing, hardworking fabric that rose to prominence on farms and ranches that now also graces high fashion runways. When it comes to jeans, it seems like the gulf in prices between cheap and expensive could not be greater.
00:55 Denim Definitions & Price Parameters
We understand that cheap and expensive are relative terms. What’s cheap for a dedicated denim-head who invests in quality could be considered expensive for someone else. Consider that “cheap” and “expensive” include nuances of quality. Finally, the average price for jeans can vary dramatically according to where you live in the world.
02:25 Comparing Fabric
By definition, jeans are made from denim, fabric made from sturdy cotton that is twill-woven with a distinctive diagonal pattern from the twill-weave. Denim has been around since the 17th century but jeans, as we know them today, really came to prominence in the second half of the 19th century.
As a workman’s fabric, denim was valued for its durability and strength but as jeans have increasingly become a fashion icon even getting paired with sport coats, additional qualities, like softness, unique texture and drape have become more important.
05:42 Comparing Care
It’s usually no surprise that many menswear items require specialized care and cleaning routines but some people are surprised to hear that they might need to handle their jeans with kid gloves. But how you care for your jeans can have a massive impact on their quality which is exacerbated by the initial price of the jeans.
07:46 Comparing Construction & Features
Along with fabric, the cost of manufacturing jeans represents one of the biggest capital investments. And construction methods can vary greatly between cheap and expensive jeans.
Construction also plays a major role in both functional and aesthetic features. For jeans, one of the most important features will be pockets.
10:25 Comparing Fit
Jeans are also cut to fit certain styles. To ensure general appeal, cheaper jeans are usually available only in mid or low-rise. The popular perception is that these rises are more comfortable and appealing. Even though, when properly sized and fitted, higher-rise jeans, like high-waisted trousers in general, are ideal for most men.
12:08 Our General Conclusions
Cheap jeans tend to produce an inferior wearing experience. Low-quality fabric and construction are uncomfortable and unappealing. And cheap jeans tend to be perhaps a little too rough.
Expensive jeans, on the other hand, offer a unique and exceptional wearing experience. That really highlights the sartorial potential of jeans but at an increased cost, not only money but also time and attention for adequate care and maintenance.
Ultimately, the right jeans for you will depend on why you want the jeans.
13:22 Outfit Rundown
#barber #grooming #notsponored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Wool Challis Tie in Turquoise with Gray, Orange, Navy & Yellow Pattern: https://gentl.mn/wool-challis-tie-in-turquoise
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Timeless Hairstyles For Men: https://gentl.mn/timeless-men-hairstyles
→ How To Grow Facial Hair & Beards: https://gentl.mn/facial-hair-beards
→ Don’t Be A Troll!: https://gentl.mn/troll-online
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer & Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Imperial
→ Columbia Pictures
→ Sony Pictures Releasing
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Men’s Haircuts
More Barber Info:
→ stilocuts.com
→ swaggerandjacks.com
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Gentleman's Gazette
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00:00 Things Your Barber Wants You To Know Introduction
Good personal grooming is one of the cornerstones for a modern gentleman’s lifestyle but as much as you might enjoy taking charge of your own grooming routine, there are just some things that really are better left to the professionals.
00:35 Our Barbers
Simon, or “Si”, is the owner of Stilo cuts based on Hennepin Avenue in Minnesotta
Rick who works at Swagger & Jack’s in Norwich (knorr-ich)
01:18 #1 - Whether you’re actually showing up
01:58 #2 - What kind of haircut you want
02:30 #3 - Wash your hair!
03:28 #4 - Don’t wear a tight hat before your haircut
03:57 #5 - When the clippers are on, stay still!
04:46 #6 - Don’t keep checking your reflection
05:46 #7 - Your beard might not be as good as you think
06:42 #8 - No eye contact during a mustache trim
07:00 #9 - Your barber can hear you just fine!
07:36 #10 - Stay away from divisive conversation topics
08:03 #11 - Keep some things to yourself!
08:40 #12 - Keep phone calls brief
09:00 #13 - If your child is with you, be realistic
09:14 #14 - Don’t have your spouse dictate the haircut
09:37 #15 - Only insecure barbers care if you “cheat”!
10:10 #16 - Know how your own hair grows
10:33 #17 - Don’t ask for a redo right at the end
11:21 #18 - If possible, pay (& tip) right away
Ultimately, when it comes to getting a haircut, your main goal is to come away looking and feeling great. It’s all about being relaxed and trusting your barber. They know what they’re doing, and want you to enjoy the experience.
12:55 Outfit Rundown
#italianmen #style #menswear
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Burgundy Two Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-twotone-socks
→ White Initial Pocket Square: https://gentl.mn/white-initial-pocket-square-1
→ White & Magenta Mini Carnation Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/white-magenta-carnation
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Silk - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/silk-expensive1
→ Bosalino - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/borsalino-fedora
→ Isaia - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/isaia-jackets1
→ Are Gucci Horsebit Loafers Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/gucci-loafers-review
→ Alternative Ties: https://gentl.mn/alternative-ties1
→ British vs. Italian vs. American: https://gentl.mn/british-italian-american-suits-2
→ Linen Explained: https://gentl.mn/linen-summer-fabric-1
→ Wool "Super" Numbers Explained: https://gentl.mn/wool-super-numbers1
→ Sprezzatura Dos & Don'ts: https://gentl.mn/sprezzatura-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney & Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Inter-Pathe II
→ Criterion Collection
→ British Pathe
→ Tele Ricordi
→ ThamesTV
→ Warner Bros.
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ MUBI
→ Gorupdebesanez/Wikimedia Commons
→ Gentleman's Journal
→ Art Gallery of Ontario
→ Phoenix Ancient Art
→ world4.eu/toga-palla
→ Liturgical Arts Journal
→ Met Museum
→ Eliot Stein
→ SmartHistory.com
→ Gallerie Academia, Venezia
→ Luigi Bevilacqua.com
→ The Washington Post
→ Brioni
→ InToscana
→ Get Back Lauretta
→ Grailed
→ Isaia
→ Failure Before Success
→ Bagista
→ British Vogue
→ Life in Italy
→ Paramount Pictures
→ Fashion United
→ Vanity Fair
→ The Business of Fashion
→ 1701bespoke.com
→ Attolini
→ The Rake
→ DieWorkWear
→ Litalo-Americano
→ WWD
→ Collecting Lifestyle
→ Mr. Porter
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00:00 Italian Style Introduction
The world is full of elegant and stylish gentlemen but most would agree there’s just something special about the style typified by Italian gentlemen like Marcello Mastroianni, Lino Ieluzzi, and Vittorio Gassman.
01:03 Early History of Italian Style
The Italian peninsula had dominated the fashion scene of Europe for centuries. And even after this dominance waned, the region was still known for its exceptional fabrics and craftsmanship. This history of, and devotion to, clothing excellence became a sartorial legacy that heavily impacted Italian style.
04:53 Italy and the Modern Fashion Industry
After World War II, the Italian people began the process of rebuilding their country. Clothing production would play a considerable role in this revival because Italy could leverage a massive clothing-production industry.
The rise of the great Italian fashion houses saw historic Italian style put on display to the world to rival even the influence of the Roman Empire. And the Italian appreciation for quality materials and personal flair quickly became a selling point for a gargantuan industry. Being home to so many fashion industries certainly helped Italians gain a reputation for their style.
8:19 Hollywood & Midcentury Consumer Demand
11:37 Contemporary Italian Style
The Neapolitan Suit, With ts unpadded natural shoulders, roping detailing, patch pockets, and a very trim silhouette is simply the most famous and distinctive of Italian suit styles.
Nearly every region of Italy has its own distinctive clothing styles that reflect the local realities of climate, culture, and class. Prominent examples include the → Roman Style, which follows the general form of a Neapolitan suit but with more sedate detailing
→ Milanese Style, with its strong, extended shoulder
→ Florentine Style, which combines the breadth of a Milanese suit with a rounded silhouette
16:13 Conclusion
It would have been very easy to build this video around stereotypes about Italian men. But we’ve found looking beyond the stereotypes far more enlightening. Ultimately, the exceptionalism of Italian style cannot be attributed to that famous Italian confidence alone.
17:20 Outfit Rundown
#1900s #menswear #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Gold Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks: https://gentl.mn/gold-monkey-fist
→ Houndstooth Bow Tie Dark Green Pearl Grey: https://gentl.mn/houndstooth-green-gray-bow-tie
→ White Linen Pocket Square: https://gentl.mn/white-linen-pocket-square2
→ Unlined Gray Peccary Gloves: https://gentl.mn/gray-peccary-gloves-unlined
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ True 1910s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1910s-menswear-style
→ True 1920s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1920s-menswear-style
→ Downtown Abbey Got It Wrong?: https://gentl.mn/menswear-review-downton-abbey
→ Flat Cap Guide: https://gentl.mn/flat-cap1
→ Are You An Expert?: https://gentl.mn/obscure-menswear-term
→ Bowler Hat: https://gentl.mn/guide-to-bowler-hat
→ Panama Hat: https://gentl.mn/panama-hat-guide1
→ French Cuffs: https://gentl.mn/french-cuffs-on-shirts1
→ 20th Century Fashion Fails: https://gentl.mn/fashion-fails-20th-century-1
→ How To Pair Tie Knots With Shirt Collars: https://gentl.mn/pairing-tie-knots
→ Bow Ties Definitive Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-to-bow-ties
→ History of the Suit: https://gentl.mn/evolution-of-suits1
→ Spectator Shoe Guide: https://gentl.mn/spectator-twotone-shoe-guide1
→ Eyeglasses Guide: https://gentl.mn/classic-frames-guide
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-to-black-tie
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Aaron White & Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer & Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ British Pathe
→ PBS
→ Business Insider
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ CNBC
→ Madison Historical→ Bridgeman Images
→ OZY
→ Ultrafino Blog
→ Gannett/Mary Evans Picture Agency
→ Antiques Boutique
→ Shorpy
→ Ruby Lane
→ Metropolitan Museum of Arts Libraries
→ Vintage Dancer
→ Ties. com
→ Jaha.org
→ Overattired.com
→ Streetaddict.se
→ Fidmmuseum.com
→ Medium.com
→ Classic Shoes for Men
→ Library of Congress
→ Britishmuseum.org
→ Encyclopedia Britannica
→ Lancastrianjewellers.com
→ Carol's True Vintage and Antiques
→ Ranker
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
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00:00 1900s Menswear Introduction
01:56 Hats:
→ One-piece flat cap
→ Bowler hat
→ Homburg hat
→ Panama hat
→ Top hat
06:20 Hair & Facial Hair
Some men simply cut their hair short, and others used ‘Hair Oil’ to flatten or style their hair.
A mustache, rolled with wax, was in vogue. Smaller beards could also be stylish. Large beards were reserved for older gentlemen and a clean-shaven face was prized for a youthful appearance.
07:44 Shirts
Shirts came in an array of different colors and patterns. Starched collars were very popular. Winged and standing collars were worn alongside rounded club collars and squared-off collars.
09:32 Ties
Neckties were much shorter as waistcoats were cut higher. Stick pins were worn in ties to keep them in place, and to add a bit of sparkle to the ensemble.
10:39 Odd Jackets & Suits
In the 1900s the morning coat started to take over from the frock coat, but younger men were stepping away from these varying jacket types. The lounge jacket was quickly gaining popularity.
14:11 Waistcoats or Vests
They are more commonly single-breasted and had 5 buttons. Detachable buttons and double-breasted waistcoats were also popular.
14:56 Trousers
The 1900s saw narrow ‘drainpipe’ trousers as the norm. Trousers typically had fishtails at the back and were worn with suspenders. However, this was the decade when American tailoring began to use belt loops.
16:14 Shoes & Boots
There was so much choice when it came to boots. You’d also find some low-cut shoes. Shoes like the Oxford became popular in this era as they were more casual.
18:40 Overcoats
It’s a misconception that only single-breasted jackets were worn, as double-breasted coats were very popular at the time. Fur shawl collars and velvet collars were a common sight.
20:31 Accessories
Pocket watches, with elaborate chains and fobs, would show a man’s class, sophistication & style. Walking sticks and canes were used. The common cufflink style was a solid gold or silver chain link. Men could be found wearing a variety of eyewear.
21:55 Occasional Wear
Well-to-do gentlemen would have owned much larger wardrobes with clothing intended for specific purposes such as evening wear or sporting clothes.
23:33 Outfit Rundown
#pants #trousers #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ How To Combine Shoes + Socks + Pants: https://gentl.mn/shoes-socks-pants
→ Wallet in Whisky Brown Boxcalf & Blue: https://gentl.mn/wallet-whisky-brown-boxcalf-blue
→ Dark Havana Brown Calf Leather Belt: https://gentl.mn/havana-brown-belt
→ Neville Silver Solid Brass Belt Buckle: https://gentl.mn/neville-silver-belt-buckle
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Best Men's Underwear Brands Under $30: https://gentl.mn/best-underwear-brands
→ Should You Wear Cuffed Pants?: https://gentl.mn/cuffed-pants1
→ Proper Pants Break & Length: https://gentl.mn/proper-pants-break1
→ Why Men Stopped Wearing Pleated Pants?: https://gentl.mn/stop-wearing-pleated-pants
→ Pleated Pants?: https://gentl.mn/should-men-wear-pleated-pants2
→ James Bond Style Rules: https://gentl.mn/bond-style-rules3
→ Look Great In Earth Tones: https://gentl.mn/earth-tones-outfits
→ How Pants Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/pants-should-fit1
→ Remove Any Stain: https://gentl.mn/remove-stains-any-garment
→ Gentlemen's At-Home Attire: https://gentl.mn/gentlemen-at-home-wear
→ Can I Still Wear?: https://gentl.mn/wear-and-tear-1
→ Tote Bags - Timeless or Trend?: https://gentl.mn/tote-bags1
→ Attache Case Guide: https://gentl.mn/attache-case1
→ Our EDC: https://gentl.mn/everyday-carry
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Disney
→ Warner Bros. Television
→ Shopmango.com
→ EON Productions
→ Fox
→ 20th Television Netflix
→ Gramercy Pictures
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Wikihow
→ Condiva
→ Information Nigeria
→ Giglio
→ Vintage Dancer
→ Lyst
→ The Museum of Uncut Fun
→ Patricknco.com
→ UWM Men's Shop
→ Esquire
→ Blue Lion Apparel
→ Lemaire
→ Glamood
→ The Suit Depot
→ GQ
→ Ape to Gentleman
→ Vogue
→ Alternate History Magazine
→ Gentlemanwithin.com
→ Hangower.in
→ A Life Well Dressed
→ Blackenterprise.com
→ NZ Herald
→ Outfit Trends
→ Bike Hacks
→ Medium
→ Bluffworks
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
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00:00 Pants (Trousers) Mistakes Introduction
Pants are an essential component of most Classic outfits that are often overlooked or treated as a secondary consideration. The garment that covers your middle section and legs massively impacts your overall outfit. Any mistakes you make with your trousers can critically comprise your ensemble.
01:18 1. Trousers that are too long
02:33 2. Trousers that are too short
03:38 3. Improper pleats
05:55 4. Unharmonious pairings
08:07 5. Over-reliance on belts
09:44 6. Overly worn trousers
11:00 7. Overly-full pockets
Now that you know our seven tips you’ll be able to avoid some of the most common mistakes that mar men’s trousers.
12:38 Outfit Rundown
#watches #luxury #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ White Pocket Square with Red X Stitch: https://gentl.mn/white-pocket-square-red-xstitch
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Reason I'd Never Buy A Rolex: https://gentl.mn/reasons-id-never-buy-rolex
→ Jaeger LeCoultre - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/jlc-watch-review
→ Omega Speedmaster - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/omega-watch-review
→ Dress Sneakers - Timeless or Trend?: https://gentl.mn/dress-sneakers-timeless-trend
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney & Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Select Watches Provided by Delray Watch Supply; delraywatch.com
→ Rolex
→ Rotary
→ Swatch
→ Disney
→ Marvel
→ 6 Henry London
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Seiko
→ Baltic
→ Cartier
→ Audemars Piguet
→ Maurice Lacroix
→ Orient
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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00:00 Affordable Watches Introduction
Who doesn’t love gazing at beautiful luxury watches? If you’re anything like us at the Gentleman’s Gazette, I’m sure you could spend hours pouring over all these beautiful luxury watches. The problem is, most of them cost so much that time is the only thing we can spend on them!
00:52 What Does “Affordable” Mean?
We all have different budgetary concerns when it comes to buying a wristwatch but the desire to own an iconic luxury watch can be incredibly powerful. For the majority of us, investing in luxury watches is a welcome daydream but not likely to materialize into actually owning one.
We want to cater to different levels of what you guys can and can’t afford. And just in case you were wondering, we’re not just going to say “buy a replica” as we certainly don’t condone buying fake watches! As many fakes out there hover around the price points we’ll be looking at today, you’ll be far better served by investing in a genuine watch.
02:07 Watch #1: Rolex Submariner
→ Oris Sixty Five - MSRP $1500 - $2,000
→ Seiko Prospex Diver - MSRP $300 -$500
→ Baltic Aquascaphe - MSRP $600
04:02 Watch #2: Cartier Tank
→ Longines Dolce Vita - MSRP $1700
→ Seiko SUP880 - MSRP $110
→ Rotary Cambridge - MSRP $260
→ Maurice Lacroix Reserve de Marche - MSRP $2500
06:02 Watch #3: Omega Speedmaster
→ Bulova Lunar Pilot - MSRP $300 - $600
→ Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch
07:24 Watch #4: Patek Phillipe Calatrava
→ Nomos Ludwig 33 (Ref 242) - MSRP $1500
→ Baltic MR01 - MSRP $600
→ Seiko Presage Cocktail - MSRP $300 - $500
→ Timex Marlin - MSRP $180 $250
09:30 Watch #5: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
→ Maurice Lacroix Aikon (Quartz) - MSRP $2000
→ Tissot PRX - MSRP $400 $600
→ Rotary Regent - MSRP $500
10:35 Watch #6: JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon
→ Frederique Constant Classics Moonphase Quartz - MSRP $1200
→ Orient Star RA-AS0102S - MSRP $300
→ Henry London Richmond - MSRP $100
The world of watches is something that's constantly evolving and changing so the prices that we quote might not always be perfect but we did our very best. If we’ve inspired you to go on a low-budget shopping spree, but the exact model we’ve discussed isn’t available, look around within that brand's catalog as there might be something else that fits the bill.
11:57 Outfit Rundown
#bespoke #shoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/dark-brown-beige-striped-socks1
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray:https://gentl.mn/burgundy-light-grey-striped-socks1
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Perry Mason Style: https://gentl.mn/perry-mason-style1
→ Allen Edmonds - Has Quality Decreased?: https://gentl.mn/allen-edmonds-shoes-value1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: Eb Daniels
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber; visit Amara at http://harkweberstudio.com
→ HBO
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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Gentleman's Gazette
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
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We're Hiring! https://gentl.mn/work-with-us
00:00 Trial Shoe Introduction
Every shoemaker has a different process. Some make several, some just one, and some don’t make any at all. ut all serve the same function: help ensure good fit and comfort for the customer avoiding having to do a redo of the shoe for the shoemaker as that is expensive. It’s important to note that one or more trail shoes don’t guarantee a good fit.
02:14 What's a Trial Shoe?
Despite best efforts when taking measurements and last making, it is rare for a bespoke shoemaker to make everything perfectly right the first time. A trial shoe is an inexpensive version of the final shoe.
05:05 How It's Made: Step #1: Double-checking the last
07:09 Step #2: Making the pattern from the last
09:43 Step #3: Using the patterns to cut the leather
10:32 Step #4: Sewing the pieces together
11:02 Step #5: Assembling the trial shoe
The trial shoes are done! Again, keep in mind that there's no outsole on there. Other shoemakers may glue one on. There's no real heal while other shoemakers may do that. But there's no one recipe.
15:04 Testing the Trial Shoe
Amara takes note of the areas that are obviously too loose or too tight and she actually draws onto the leather so she knows where she has to make changes on the last.
We need to test it so we can figure out the imperfections and where we have to improve things. In order to do that, we have to pull out the last from the shoe. After all, we have to get the last out of the way if we get to try these on.
20:39 Second Trial Shoe
Amara changed things on the last and made a new trial shoe that was still on the last. Immediately they felt better than the first time around. When I tried these shoes, it was summer outside it was really hot and humid so my feet were swollen to different degrees at different points in time so that's also something you need to keep in mind. In the morning, typically, your feet are less swollen than if you sit all day in a hot humid environment.
After all, your shoes should always fit you no matter what time of day or the surrounding conditions. I still felt some pressure on the little toe and so Amara marked it and the pressure points in my right foot.
22:17 "Third" Trial Shoe
Amara reused the same uppers to save time. The changes weren't dramatic and drastic so the overall impact of reusing the uppers wasn't that big and I was fine with it. Overall, the shoe was really nice and felt really good. The only thing that I wanted to change was a bit of looseness in the heel but Amara said that in the final shoe, it would be different and tighter. Why? Because it would have a heel counter and that would help with it.
23:07 Conclusion
The most important part of the trial shoe process is being clear and honest about what feels good and what feels bad. Shoemaker will guide you with particular questions but only you can say what you’re really feeling.
A shoemaker's ultimate goal is ensuring you get the right fit and actively and honestly engaging in the trial shoe process will help him or her achieve this goal.
#belts #accessories #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Bordeaux Burgundy Red Calf Leather Belt: https://gentl.mn/bordeaux-burgundy-red-belt
→ Jasper Silver Belt Buckle: https://gentl.mn/silver-belt-buckle-jasper
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/socks-burgundy-grey-stripe
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ High-Waisted Pants?: https://gentl.mn/low-mid-vs-high-rise-pants
→ Levis - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/review-levis-jeans
→ Is Quality Menswear Dying?: https://gentl.mn/quality-menswear-end1
→ True 1950s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/true-1950s-menswear
→ True 1960s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/true-1960s-menswear
→ Belts + Shoes + Metals: https://gentl.mn/-belts-shoes-metal1
→ Hermes Belt - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/h-belt-review1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ Universal Pictures
→ Warner Bros.
→ Walt Disney Company
→ Paramount Global
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ The Art of Manliness
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
https://gentl.mn/patron
________________________________________________________________________
Gentleman's Gazette
https://gentl.mn/GG-websitehomepage-1
https://gentl.mn/FB-classicaccessories-1
Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gentlemanquiz-signup-1
00:00 Men Start Wearing Belts Introduction
When it comes to keeping your trousers up, your big three options are belts, suspenders (or braces), and trouser side-adjusters. Nowadays, belts are by far the most popular option. But how did this come about?
01:07 Terminology: Belts & Girdles
A belt is a band or strap used to support clothing or carry instruments while a band or strap worn around the waist and used to keep garments closed or cinched, rather than supported, is technically called a girdle.
A girdle now refers almost exclusively to an undergarment intended to shape and support the midsection and thighs.
02:26 Early History of Belts
Archaeological evidence for both articles is ubiquitous throughout the Bronze Age and it is likely that belts and girdles are almost as old as the clothes themselves. In the epics of the Greek poet Homer, set around 1200 BC, both girdles and belts are described and were also worn by the Ancient Romans.
03:17 Medieval and Early-Modern Belts
During the European Middle Ages, the blending of multiple cultures produced new fashions in which both belts and girdles were worn with trousers, tunics, and robes. Still, as before, belts were most often associated with utilitarian functions and stored tools and instruments.
04:34 Suspenders Become Supreme
In the early 19th century, London haberdasher Albert Thurston is credited with inventing suspenders. Suspenders held the trousers in place by literally suspending them from the shoulders attached by ties or buttons to the trouser waist. They immediately became popular because at this time clothing manufacturing had entered the Industrial Revolution.
For the rest of the 19th century and into the 20th century, suspenders stayed supreme, supplanting belts as the primary means of keeping one’s trousers up. But belts did not disappear. They persisted as a practical accessory.
08:09 20th Century Ascendancy of Belts
By the early days of the 20th century, the mutual wearing of belts and suspenders slowly fell out of favor. Belts, which were easy to take on and off and could help hold tools became regular wear in manual labor settings. While suspenders were worn at most other times.
10:47 Why Men Started: 1. Casualization of Clothing
11:37 2. Manufacturers' Choices
12:19 3. Perceived Convenience
12:47 4. Popular Perception
Having worked our way through over 5000 years of history we can now summarize why belts are so popular today.
14:40 Why Do Men Wear Belts Today?: 1. Utility
16:12 2. Comfort
17:16 3. Displays of Wealth
18:37 4. Style
We hope that today’s episode has explained why men started wearing belts and shed some light on why they remain so popular to this day.
20:53 Outfit Rundown
#dresssneakers #trend #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots Tie: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-red-white-polka-dots-tie
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ 20th Century Fashion Fails: https://gentl.mn/20th-century-fashion-fails
→ Sneakers - Should Gentlemen Wear Them?: https://gentl.mn/should-you-wear-sneakers3
→ 9 Shoe Trends To Skip: https://gentl.mn/bad-shoe-trends1
→ Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt Guide: https://gentl.mn/ocbd-shirt
→ Business Casual Explained: https://gentl.mn/business-casual--attire
→ Monochromatic Outfits: https://gentl.mn/monochromatic-outfits1
→ Cordovan Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/cordovan-leather-expensive1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
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00:00 Dress Sneakers Introduction
The dress sneaker has been making waves in the world of menswear for a few years now. It should come as no surprise that the world we live in today is far more casual than it used to be. While there are undoubtedly items of clothing that remain timeless regardless of the decade, there’s no denying that history has shown us many victims of fashions, too.
00:50 What Is a Dress Sneaker?
Simply put, the term “sneaker” is far too broad and there are different types of sneaker styles under the umbrella term. A dress sneaker is a cross between athletic shoes and the more formal dress shoe.
01:42 What Makes Them Smart?
If we take a deeper look at a pair of these shoes, you’ll start to see why they’re called “dress” sneakers. They have: → a comparatively slim sole
→ flat laces in a horizontal bar style
→ they are typically constructed from finer materials that are associated with dress shoes
→ and they possess an elegant last shape
04:29 Do they fit into a classic wardrobe?
As a Gentleman’s Gazette viewer, I’m going to hazard a guess that you have a healthy love of classic style, just like us. The point is, for many years, sneakers and classic style haven’t mixed well at all. So, I get how it can be difficult to consider a pair of dress sneakers for your wardrobe.
07:12 Death of The Dress Shoe?
The dress sneaker is looking to be a fairly big player on the menswear scene. The important thing to remember is that style evolves over time. A perfect example of how style evolves is the black cap toe Oxford shoe.
08:28 Timeless or Trend?
In this case, we feel pretty strongly that they have big potential to be timeless rather than a trend. Of course, there are going to be those who don’t feel those dress sneakers are an appropriate addition to the realm of classic style. And that’s okay, we’re all allowed to have our likes and dislikes! The rise in popularity of dress sneakers looks to be following an established pattern of success.
10:02 Outfit Rundown
#edwardgreen #shoereview #notsponsored
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→ Navy Blue & White Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/navy-blue-white-solidsocks
→ Dark Havana Brown Calf Leather Belt: https://gentl.mn/dark-brown-belt
→ Edward Gold Belt Buckle: https://gentl.mn/edward-gold-belt-buckle
→ Pocket Square in Brown with Blue Paisley: https://gentl.mn/brown-blue-paisley-pocketsquare
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Measuring Feet For Bespoke Shoe: https://gentl.mn/bespoke-shoes-measuring
→ Hermes Belt - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/H-belt-review
→ Goodyear Welting - Myth or Magic?: https://gentl.mn/shoes-goodyear-welted
→ How A Dress Shoe Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/dress-shoe-fit1
→ John Lobb - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/john-lobb-shoe-review-1
→ 80% Off - The Secret Process: https://gentl.mn/secret-process-80percent-off
→ Thrift Shopping Tips: https://gentl.mn/thrift-shopping-tips
→ Spier & Mackay High Quality?: https://gentl.mn/SM-shirts-review
→ Cutting Apart Belts: https://gentl.mn/cutting-apart-mens-belts1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins & Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera: Chris Dummer & Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Edward Green
→ Allen Edmonds
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Northants Live
→ Ettinger
→ Allsole
→ Divergent Paths
→ Shoes - Museums
→ World Atlas
→ The New Yorker
→ Walpole
→ A Collected Man
→ Robb Report UK
→ Gaziano & Girling
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00:00 Edward Green Dress Shoe Introduction
For years, Edward Green has championed a higher quality and finer make of footwear. But are their factory-made shoes actually worth $1,250 -$1,750 per pair?
01:00 Edward Green Shoe History
Northampton is a town in England’s East Midlands region with a long history of leatherworking and shoemaking. Edward Green, at the age of just 12 years old, joined the industry as an apprentice clicker.
Throughout his training in cutting out the various components that make a pair of shoes, he learned a great deal about how to look for quality in not only the finished goods but also in the materials that make them.
As he grew more skilled in his role, Green realized there was a growing space in the market for shoes of a higher quality. Driven by an ambition to make a class of footwear higher than that on the market, Edward Green established his own workshop in 1890.
05:05 Edward Green Today
Although Edward Green no longer possesses a bespoke program, the company still focuses on quality, not quantity. With a smaller output, the theory is Edward Green allows more time per pair of shoes thus, hopefully resulting in a higher quality product.
05:37 Materials
Edward Green takes pride in stating they select fine European calf leathers.
06:39 Construction Details
The shoes are hand-clicked. The shoe is closed, or stitched together, by machine and then the uppers are attached to the last by a combination of machine and hand techniques. The majority of the shoes are Goodyear Welted. Edward Green uses a cork filler before the outsole goes on. The welts and closed channel soles are machine stitched. Edward Green pays close attention to the look of their soles. The color is achieved through pigments and polish applied by hand.
14:20 Lasts
Throughout the range, there is a distinct preference for understated, classic designs with no fussy detailing. Edward Green has had different last shapes throughout the years. But a few remain as the brand’s lasts of choice: → The soft chisel toed 888
→ The almond toed 82
→ The round-toed 202
→ And somewhere in the middle is 184, Edward Green’s loafer last
16:24 Styles: → Chelsea - £965 / $1285
→ A penny loafer style called Piccadilly - £965 / $1285
→ A split toe derby named Dover - £1200 / $1600
→ And a derby boot that has been in production since the 1930s known as Galway - £1215 / $1610
18:00 Pros & Cons
21:32 So, Is It Worth It?
Overall, I would conclude that with the quality of materials used, the level of workmanship at this price point, the selection of different sizes but most of all, the classic nature of the shoe’s designs, Make Edward Green shoes is worth it, if they are on a steep discount sale only.
23:26 Outfit Rundown
#sunglasses #shades #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-dark-brown-beige
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Best Sunglasses For Your Face Shape & Skin Tone: https://gentl.mn/sunglasses-face-shape-skintone
→ Formality Scale: https://gentl.mn/formality-scale-guide
→ Persol Sunglasses - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/is-it-worth-it-persol-sunglasses
→ Oxfords Not Brogues?: https://gentl.mn/review-kingsman-style
→ Mad Men Got It Wrong?: https://gentl.mn/mad-men-style-reaction
→ Menswear Expert Reviews: The Talented Mr. Ripley: https://gentl.mn/mr-ripley-menswear-review-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Shade Review
→ Lionsgate Television
→ Paramount Pictures
→ Turner Entertainment
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Zenni
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00:00 Essential Sunglasses Introduction
Clothes and accessories are typically viewed as functional items first, with style being a close second priority. However, of all the items of clothing that balance practical use with stylish flair, the sunglasses are undoubtedly the cream of the crop. But with the internet age providing so many versions, options and alternatives, the choice can be overwhelming.
01:02 Sunglasses Tips - Tip 1: Don't Go For Oversize
01:37 Tip 2: Prioritize Protection
02:03 Tip 3: Consider Your Options
02:54 Tip 4: Avoid The Oakleys
Just know that we want you to look as cool as you think you are. With these general tips, you'll surely look good and stylish.
03:19 4 Essential Sunglasses: 1. Aviator
05:00 2. Wayfarer
06:56 3. Clubmaster
08:43 4. Panto
So there we have it, four essential styles of sunglasses as well as a few general sunglasses tips thrown in for good measure. And If you’re on the lookout for a new pair of protective eyewear, you’re guaranteed to look great in any of the styles we’ve suggested today.
11:15 Outfit Rundown
#silk #fabric #notsponored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Silk Moiré Cummerbund in Black: https://gentl.mn/silk-moire-cummerbund-black
→ Shantung Silk Striped Bow Tie Green: https://gentl.mn/shantung-silk-bow-tie-green-purple
→ Orange Red Mottled Knit Tie: https://gentl.mn/orange-red-mottled-knit-tie
→ Reversible Scarf in Burgundy & Blue Motifs & Paisley: https://gentl.mn/scarf-in-burgundy-motifs-paisley
→ Madder Silk Pocket Square in Purple Diamond Motif & Paisley: https://gentl.mn/pocketsquare-purple-diamondmotif-paisley
→ Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Carnelian Balls: https://gentl.mn/carnelian-balls-eagle-claw-cufflinks
→ Pink & Grey Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/pink-grey-shadow-stripe-socks
→ Burgundy Mini Carnation Silk Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-mini-carnation-1
→ Burgundy Silk Wool Pocket Square with Paisley & Shoestring Edge: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-pocketsquare-paisley-shoestring
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Cotton Explained: https://gentl.mn/cotton-fabric-explained
→ Classic Men's Sleepwear: https://gentl.mn/mens-sleepwear-guide
→ Madder Silk Explained: https://gentl.mn/madder-silk-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Birdy Official
→ Business Insider
→ Mulberry Silk Arm Industries
→ Virginia Postrel
→ Mowgli Productions
→ Peggy Osterk
→ Columbia Pictures Television
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→ US Chamber of Commerce
→ ThoughtCo
→ Shanghai Daily
→ HerStorie
→ Sandip De
→ History Today
→ Robotics & Automation News
→ Smarthistory
→ Encyclopedia Britannica
→ Alex Bahzan
→ Local & Bespoke
→ Everything Silkworms
→ Savor the Day
→ Pindoudou
→ Gardening Know How
→ CGTN
→ Star Tribune
→ Carleton University
→ Bug Under G
→ Peggy Osterkamp's Weaving Blog
→ Google Arts & Culture
→ Paradise Fibers
→ Laloras
→ Innovation News Network
→ OpenEdition Journals
→ depts.washington.edu
→ Hamilton Partnership for Paterson
→ Patricia Temples Photography
→ The Boston Globe
→ My Place to Years
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00:00 Why Is Silk So Expensive Introduction
Silk is one of the most important fabrics in menswear history and remains a symbol of luxury and taste to this day. Even the word “silk” has become a byword for decadence and excellence.
01:30 The History of Silk
The oldest evidence of silk production dates back to the Yangshao culture of Neolithic China. According to popular stories, the pseudo-mythological Chinese empress Leizu (Lay-zoo) invented sericulture, a fancy word for the cultivation of silkworms for the production of silk.
Through the centuries, silk production in China was standardized. For centuries, China held a virtual monopoly on silk production which was spread across the globe via an important network of trade routes known as the Silk Road.
05:21 Modern Silk Production
10:26 Grading Silk
14:50 Making Silk Products
What started with a tray of mulberry leaves and a pile of silkworms ends with a gorgeous silk fabric that is ready to be turned into any number of luxury menswear items: → Neckwear
→ Scarves
→ Pocket Squares
→ Suits, Sport Coats, & Shirts
→ Socks
17:32 Pros & Cons of Silk
Upsides: → Possessing a unique and immediately recognizable gloss.
→ An extremely soft hand that is lustrous and smooth without feeling overly slick or slippery.
→ Thermoregulating properties that naturally circulate air for a cooling effect.
Downsides: → While it doesn’t tear easily, silk has poor elasticity
→ Silk is also easily marred
→ The modern ubiquity of satin polyester and its ability to approximate the look of silk.
19:24 So, why is silk so expensive?
1. It must be harvested from animals that require care and feeding. In a process that is time and resource-intensive.
2. It must be specially woven and prepared from a limited supply of raw materials.
3. And it must be assembled into a final product that requires special workmanship to ensure no mistakes and minimal waste.
20:12 Outfit Rundown
#last #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Magenta Pink, Grey Mottled Knit Tie: https://gentl.mn/magenta-pink-grey-mottled-knit-tie
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/burgundy-light-grey-striped-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Designing Bespoke Shoes: https://gentl.mn/bespeaking-bespoke-shoes
→ Custom Suit Review 10 Years Later: https://gentl.mn/custom-suit-10-years-later
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Kazuma Nishimura
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00:00 Creating Your Last Introduction
n our third installment of my bespoke shoe journey with St. Paul Minnesota shoemaker Amara Hark Weber, we discuss a very important step of the bespoke shoemaking process, where you will, at last, know what a last is and how it is made.
00:32 What Is A Last?
Basically, it’s the thing you build a shoe around. It is modeled after the human foot, not an exact copy. For a ready-to-wear-made factory shoe, typically, the lasts are made out of plastic. It also comes in many different sizes, so you can just make the shoes.
It’s important to keep in mind that different shoemakers can make lasts in very different ways. We’ll take a look at how Amara Hark Weber did her last and see what we can learn about lasts from her.
02:42 Sourcing the Last Materials
First of all, you have to source the last material. Typically, it’s made of wood, but what kind of wood depends on the companies you work with. A last has to be a sturdy thing. Why? Well, it’ll get wet, see nails, get hammered on, get sanded, and it just has to stand the test of time. It’s very important for a last to maintain its shape. Otherwise, the final shoe will be compromised.
04:12 Modifying a Blank Last
Amara uses blanks because it’s much more cost-efficient. She used to buy a vintage shoe last, would modify them, then have new base lasts made based on the desired look she wanted.
08:29 Shaving Down a Built-Up Last
After the leather has dried, it has to be cut and then shaved off to be part of the last. Typically, there are two ways to do that. One is to use a rasp and shave it down by hand, the other is to use a machine. I’m sure your shoemaker will have their own preference. Amara prefers the machine because it is faster and always very precise for her. Specifically, Amara uses a finishing machine that has a grinder with sandpaper on it.
11:37 Getting to Work
Once everything is in place, it’s time to start shaping the last and the leather on the finishing machine. The main job here is to get the last to a point where the fit is good.
She constantly uses her measurements, the pedograph, and her notes to see if what she’s doing aligns with the foot. She can take all the sensitivities, your bones, your sensitive areas into consideration that way. Also, if you have a slim and bony foot, she may make different decisions on the last design as if you have more of a fleshy foot.
As she continues to work, Amara makes it look very easy, but it requires a lot of concentration and experience, and skill. Amara largely taught herself last making, so it’s a mix of intuition, trial and error, and influx from other shoemakers and last makers.
Amara paid particular attention to the joint and the shape and rise of the arch. She does that because those are some of the most important for comfort and fit. Frankly, she was double checking, triple checking, and it took quite a while, but she just wanted to get it 100% right.
16:13 After Creating The Lasts, Shoemaking Begins
Once the last is done, the shoemaking process can start; except some shoemakers start with a trial shoe, others work right away on the real thing. Of course, there are pros and cons to both.
#outfits #tips #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Pale Purple Anemone Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/pale-purple-anemone
→ Two-Tone Knit Tie in Navy & Light Blue: https://gentl.mn/twotone-knit-tie-navy-light-blue
→ Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Tiger's Eye Balls: https://gentl.mn/eagleclaw-cufflinks-tigers-eye
→ Collar Bar Clip in Yellow Gold: https://gentl.mn/collar-bar-clip-yellow-gold
→ Antique Gold Yellow Pocket Square with Paisley: https://gentl.mn/antique-gold-yellow-paisley
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Charcoal & Orange: https://gentl.mn/socks-striped-charcoal-orange
→ Dark Brown Two Tone Socks: https://gentl.mn/dark-brown-two-tone-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ 15 Budget Dressing Tips: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-dress-suit-budget-15-tips
→ Top 7 Tailoring Tips for Menswear: https://gentl.mn/tailoring-tips
→ What To Buy From Ralph Lauren: https://gentl.mn/what-to-buy-ralph-lauren
→ Guide To Capsule Wardrobe: https://gentl.mn/capsule-wardrobe1
→ How To Wear White In Menswear: https://gentl.mn/how-wear-white1
→ Oxfords, Not Brogues?: https://gentl.mn/kingsman-style
→ Cotton Explained: https://gentl.mn/cotton1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Paramount Pictures
→ 20th Century Fox
→ Universal Pictures
→ New Line Cinema
→ NBC
→ Walt Disney Company
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Splurgefrugal
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00:00 Looking Expensive with Outfits Introduction
When it comes to our wardrobes, I'm sure we’d all love a little extra cash to add a little extra zing to our looks. However, it doesn’t take a pile of money to look expensive when you know the secrets to look expensive.
01:26 Why would you want to look expensive?
As we are a Classic Style channel, our definition of “looking expensive” harkens back to bespoke garments, made from luxury materials like those worn by our Classic Style icons in the real world.
As you know, we don’t often recommend flashy or showy clothes here at the Gentleman’s Gazette and we would never want you to use your clothes to show off to or belittle others. But there are certain occasions when you might want your look to exude both classic styles and give the idea of the expense.
02:20 Tips to look more expensive: 1. Perfect Fits
03:11 2. Care For Your Clothes
03:55 3. Ditch The Labels
05:00 4. Curate Combinations
05:51 5. Wear White Shirts
06:39 6. Find Fabulous Fabrics
08:21 7. Be Functionally Formal
09:21 8. Craft Complete Outlets
11:15 9. Adopt A Signature Piece
Of course, at the end of the day, only you know how much money you actually have in your bank account. So the confidence with which you interact with others will be the defining feature of any look. We hope that the suggestions we’ve shared today will help you really feel and exude that confidence.
12:50 Outfit Rundown
#BeauBrummell #menswear #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks - Yellow Gold: https://gentl.mn/yellow-gold-monkeyfist-cufflinks
→ Ascot in Buff Macclesfield Neats Micropattern: https://gentl.mn/ascotbuff-macclesfieldneats-micropattern
→ Navy & Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/navy-yellow-stripe-socks1
→ White Initial Pocket Square: https://gentl.mn/white-initial-pocket-square1
→ Yellow Exotic Caribbean Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/yellow-exotic-caribbean
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ What It Means To Be A Gentleman Today: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-means-today
→ How To Wear Blue & Gray: https://gentl.mn/wear-blue-gray-combination
→ How To Wear Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/wear-brow-blue-combination
→ History of Suit: https://gentl.mn/menswear-suits-evolution
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-guide3
→ Morning Dress Guide: https://gentl.mn/morning-dress-guide1
→ Sprezzatura Dos & Don'ts: https://gentl.mn/dos-and-donts-sprezzatura1
→ How To Tie An Ascot: https://gentl.mn/tie-ascot-cravat
→ Don't Be A Troll!: https://gentl.mn/not-troll-online
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Original Article: Dr. Christopher Lee
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Loew's, Inc.
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Alternate History Magazine
→ The Secret City
→ Director Prep
→ NBC Universal
→ Janeaustensworld.com
→ University of Oxford
→ Regency History
→ Nam.ac.uk
→ Odyssey Traveller
→ Encyclopedia Britannica
→ Atte Rytkonen (@dresslikea)
→ Dapperclassic
→Tripsavvy
→ WFDD
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00:00 Beau Brummell Introduction
When it comes to historic Menswear, few names rank higher than that of George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, English gentleman of leisure, dandy, and menswear influencer. During his time, Brummell was a genuine tastemaker whose views on menswear dictated fashion and whose style would resonate for years to come.
01:50 Beau Brummell’s Early Years
In keeping with our belief that a gentleman is made by the choices of his life and not the circumstances of his birth, we should note that Beau Brummell was not of aristocratic birth. Thanks to hard work and useful connections the Brummell family enjoyed a solidly middle-class lifestyle.
04:19 The Military and George IV
05:55 Brummell in London
08:10 Style Analysis
What he did in the early 19th century still informs the consensus of what good taste looks like in menswear. His clothes represented an understated elegance including a disdain for anything “over the top.” He also established a limited range of appropriate colors and the color theory for combining them effectively through contrast, something we still do when we pair blue and gray or brown and blue.
In later generations, Brummell’s look would evolve into the suit and tie but, more directly, into the sport coat and pants combination, since he preferred not to match his coat with his trousers. The emphasis on neckwear as the ornamental center of attention in a tailored outfit remains with us via the necktie or bow tie. Brummell’s choice of contrasting black and white as he changed from day into evening wear remains the black-tie dress code today. Yet it is perhaps formal morning dress, particularly a morning coat and separate colored trousers with a light-colored vest, that most closely evokes the Regency attire Brummell actually wore.
13:59 Brummell the "Troll"
15:01 Brummell's Last Days & Legacy
16:58 Outfit Rundown
#watches #complications #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Charcoal & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-charcoal-light-gray
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Watch Movements Explained: https://gentl.mn/watch-movement-2
→ Digital Watches - Timeless or Trend?: https://gentl.mn/digital-watches1
→ How To Dress Like Steve Mcqueen: https://gentl.mn/dress-like-steve-mcqueen
→ Omega - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/omega-speedmaster2
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervision: Jack Collins and Preston Schlueter
→ Watches provided by Delray Watch Supply; delraywatch.com
→ 20th Television Disney
→ Patek Philippe
→ Universal Pictures
→ Vacheron Constantin
→ Oris
→ Rolex
→ Jaeger-LeCoultre
→ Audemars Piguet
IMAGE CREDITS:
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00:00 Watch Complications Introduction
The world of wristwatches can be super confounding, from super long product codes to different variants and a ton of technical information. It’s very easy to brand those who love watches a watch nerd. A big part of what draws people to this complex world of watches is the watchers’ complications.
01:38 What Are Watch Complications?
Watchmaking is inherently complicated. Before human beings were able to tell the time on their wrist, time was usually displayed publicly in a town square or on a large clock. These public displays of time made sense because the clocks were run with weights and counterweights, which you couldn’t keep on your wrist or in your pocket.
03:15 1. Date Complication
05:11 2. Dual Time Zone Complication
06:45 3. Chronograph Complication
08:47 4. Moonphase Complication
09:55 BONUS: Tourbillon Complication
At the end of the day, whether your watch has several complications or none, just know that there’s a sheer variety out there, and there is definitely a complication for you. See, that wasn’t so complicated!
11:31 Outfit Rundown
#custom #suit #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ White Cherry Blossoms Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/white-cherry-blossoms
→ Pocket Square Classic White Irish Linen: https://gentl.mn/white-irish-linen-pocket-square
→ Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/navy-yellow-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Custom Suit Review: https://gentl.mn/kyle-custom-suit
→ "Custom" Myth or Magic?: https://gentl.mn/custom-menswear2
→ Ranking 54 Suit Brands: https://gentl.mn/rtw-suit-brands1
→ How To Wear A Vest: https://gentl.mn/how-to-wear-vest
→ Wool "Super Numbers Explained": https://gentl.mn/wool-super-numbers-explained1
→ How To Iron Suits: https://gentl.mn/iron-suit-jacket
→ ISAIA - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/isaia-review
→ Winchester Shirt Guide: https://gentl.mn/shirts-winchester1
→ Hermes Neck Ties - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/hermes-ties1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Sven Raphael Schneider & Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Oxxford Clothes
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
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00:00 First Custom Suit Introduction
Believe it or not, this video has been shaped by you guys! During our past live streams, we got a lot of comments and requests to show off some of our very first custom-made clothing pieces. And we thought it was a great idea!
00:45 What Type of “Custom” is the Suit?
It’s a (Type of custom) suit from Oxxford. We’ve previously discussed the word “custom” is an umbrella term. So I want to be completely clear with you in saying that it’s not a readily available off-the-rack suit.
02:50 Suit Jacket Details: Navy Blue, Single-Breasted, Two Buttons
I ordered it in early 2012 directly at the factory. At the time, Oxxford was advertising on our website. I had a contact and she invited me to come to Oxxford and get measured for a suit. Of course, I happily obliged and went there; got the full factory tour. And the hat cutter, whose name I can’t recall anymore, took my measurements.
06:28 Suit Trouser Details: Pleated, Cuffed, Side Adjusters
09:46 What I Would Have Done Differently
At the time, I had really high expectations for bespoke because, after all, it was the holy grail. You could decide on anything, and the garment would always promise a superior fit.
13:33 Overall Thoughts
Overall, it’s not as soft as my jackets by Isaia, for example, and it’s a combination of the coarser fabric and a stiffer interlining. But, for a suit like this, which is a bit more formal, I think it strikes the exact right balance.
Do I wear the suit a lot? Unfortunately, not a whole lot. The pants get a lot more use than the jacket, but simply because there are fit issues.
15:14 Conclusion
So, that’s my very first custom suit experience. Didn’t turn out that great after all. You might wonder, “How is that possible?” and “If you spend all that money and the first suit doesn’t turn out that well, why would you even try to go for it?”
Well, in reality, your first bespoke garment or bespoke shoe is rarely the best, typically, there’s always room for improvement, but you can still wear and enjoy it.
15:57 Outfit Rundown
#flipflops #slippers #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Dark Brown Two Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/dark-brown-solid-twotone-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Sandals for Men - Should You Wear Them?: https://gentl.mn/sandals-for-men-dos-donts
→ Menswear Expert Review - The Talented Mr. Ripley: https://gentl.mn/mr-ripley-menswear-review1
→ Why Men Stopped Wearing Dress Shoes?: https://gentl.mn/stopped-wearing-dress-shoes
→ Is The Suit Dying?: https://gentl.mn/-suit-dying1
→ 19 Things Men Should Never Wear: https://gentl.mn/men-should-never-wear
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Def Soul
→ United Artists
→ Republic Records
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ The Metropolitan Museum of Art
→ Vintage Dancer
→ Hotels.com
→ The Oregon Encyclopedia
→ Vintage Everyday
→ Muzeum.zwolen.pl
→ History.com
→ Sportland.be
→ Freeyork
→ Click Americana
→ Hawaii Magazine
→ CCFC
→ Invaluable.com
→ Ocregister.com
→ Rainbow Sandals
→ Los Angeles Times
→ Ooh La Loo
→ Buzzfeed
→ Just Jared
→ Mywinet
→ Patch
→ ATTN
→ Love Exploring
→ New Port on Tay
→ Insider
→ Telegraph
→ Frovi
→ The New Yorker
→ Inc. Magazine
→ Men's Journal
→ Vionic Shoes
→ The Sun
→ Bitcoin News
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-quiz3
00:00 Flip Flops Introduction
In some quarters, flip-flops are maligned as everything that is wrong with modern menswear. But since 2006, flip-flop sales have eclipsed even sneaker sales in North America. So whether you consider them tops or consider them flops, flip-flops have clearly flipped the script when it comes to casual shoes.
01:00 Early History of Flip Flops
In actuality, sandals, the proto-flip-flops, are one of the oldest shoe types. A cache of woven fiber sandals found in Oregon's Fort Rock Cave could be about 10,000 years old. And some truly fantastic sandals could be found in Ancient Egypt.
02:23 Flip Flops in the 20th Century
06:10 Flip Flops in the 21st Century
08:02 Why Men Wear Flip Flops: 1. Holiday Culture
08:50 2. Beach Culture
09:24 3. Societal Casualization
10:00 4. A Focus on Comfort
10:40 5. The Heroic Physique
These social movements were helped by the fact that, as mentioned, manufacturers intentionally marketed the flip-flop for everyday wear. So between organic desire and a little prepackaged push, it’s not hard to see how flip-flops got such a strong foothold in menswear.
11:44 Is There A Place For Flip Flops In Classic Style?
When it comes to Classic Style, we do feel that flip-flops have a place. That place just happens to be at the beach or the pool. If you are cultivating a classic look, we feel that there aren’t many other circumstances that will allow for flip-flops.
12:57 Outfit Rundown
#bespeaking #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Navy & Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/striped-socks-navy-yellow
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Top 10 Men's Style Books: https://gentl.mn/top10-men-style-books-1
→ Measuring Feet For Bespoke Shoes: https://gentl.mn/bespokeshoe-measuring
→ How A Dress Shoe Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/dress-shoe-fitting
→ Allen Edmonds - Has Quality Decreased?: https://gentl.mn/allen-edmonds-shoes-value
→ Vegan Leather Guide: https://gentl.mn/vegan-leather-1
→ Crocodile & Alligator Leather - Why Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-leather-1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Kopitinphoto
→ Van Del Breekel
→ Parisian Gentleman
→ Cater's News Agency
→ Shoegazing.com
→ Carmina
→ Wayman Bespoke
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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________________________________________________________________________
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00:00 Bespeaking Your Design Introduction
“Bespeaking” basically means discussing the shoe that you finally end up with. You’ll be able to follow the entire process along the way. We’ll provide food for thought, and we talk about things like the last, the broguing, the leather, and all the details such as the heel pitch that goes into a custom pair of shoes.
00:56 Why is Bespeaking Important?
Basically, it’s the opportunity for you to dream out loud about your perfect shoe. Since you’re building a pair of shoes from the ground up, the sky’s the limit.
02:00 Bespeaking: It Pays To Do Your Research
While shoemakers will be perfectly fine with starting the bespeaking process in person, we believe the real bespeaking process starts long before the first conversation. Why? Well, think about it this way: the more research you do beforehand, the more things you can point out that you like and dislike, the easier, more fluid, and quicker the entire speaking process will be.
05:52 Tell Your Shoemaker About Your Vision
Most shoemakers want an idea of what they want to talk about, so they don’t forget about anything.
11:32 Listen and Let Your Shoemaker Guide You
I learned quite a bit in those conversations, so be all ears, listen to your shoemaker, and let them guide you. They know what they’re doing. Heels are another important topic in bespoke shoemaking, and they actually take quite a bit of time if you build them up by hand.
13:09 Negotiate On Your Special Requests
You also want to mention any special requests. For example, someone may not like any metal in their shoes, so instead of a metal shank, you have to use a wooden shank; instead of metal nails, you have to use wooden pegs.
15:30 Have An Open Conversation
Most shoemakers will also have a base way to do things if it’s not specified by the customer. If there’s a contradiction between something that you want or something that you read and a shoemaker and their ability, just discuss it, and bring it up.
21:34 Know Your Options
What did we ultimately decide on? You have to stay tuned for the final product reveal. Once you’ve talked about all the individual details, it’s time to look at them in conjunction and bring it all together.
26:37 End Your Meeting Well
Eventually, once you’ve discussed all the details or you’re simply exhausted, your first bespeaking meeting will come to an end. At this point, your shoemaker will have a very good idea of what it is that you want, they will be able to start on the last, and order the leather.
#classic #outfits #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Dark Magenta Purple Lotus Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/dark-magenta-purple-lotus
→ White Marcella Pique Single End Bow Tie: https://gentl.mn/white-marcella-bow-tie
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Navy & Royal Blue: https://gentl.mn/navy-royal-blue-stripe-socks
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Sprezzatura DOs & DON'Ts: https://gentl.mn/dos-donts-sprezzatura-1
→ How To Pair Tie Knots With Shirt Collars: https://gentl.mn/pair-tie-knots
→ Stylishly Executed The Clothes of Hannibal: https://gentl.mn/hannibal-menswear-style
→ White Tie DOs & DON'Ts: https://gentl.mn/dos-donts-white-tie
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie-2
→ The Most Overrated Color In Menswear: https://gentl.mn/black-overrated-color
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisors: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Lions Gate Films
→ Warner Bros
→ Universal Pictures
→ EON Productions
→ NU Image Films
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ DC Comics
→ NBC
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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________________________________________________________________________
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/GG-gentleman-quiz
00:00 Well-dressed Villains Introduction
Watching a dramatic plot unfold while enjoying the talents of the costume designers is a great way for us to spend a few hours. One consistent component of these tales is an antagonist, or “villain” for our heroes to go up against we're sure you’ve noticed it too, but a lot of these characters are rather well dressed!
01:12 The Joker (1989 - Jack Nicholson)
03:32 Hannibal Lecter (NBC - Mads Mikkelsen)
06:36 Count Dracula (Bela Lugosi)
09:53 Patrick Bateman (Christian Bale)
12:23 Red Grant (From Russia With Love)
So, these are our list of some of our favorite evil doers and their unique take on clothes and style. Of course, there are many other examples that we could mention, perhaps in a future installment–Batman’s rogue’s gallery alone is filled with stylish villains!
17:12 Outfit Rundown
#socks #essentials #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Light & Midnight Blue Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-light-midnight-blue
→ Orange & Navy Blue Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-orange-navy-blue
→ Navy Socks with Blue & White Clocks: https://gentl.mn/navy-socks-blue-white-clocks1
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Grey & Prussian Blue: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-gray-prussian-blue
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-burgundy-gray
→ Grey Blue & Prussian Blue Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-gray-prussian-blue
→ Charcoal Grey Melange Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-gray-melange
→ Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks: https://gentl.mn/gray-socks-black-clocks
→ Pink & Grey Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-pink-gray
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Grey & Turquoise Green: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-gray-green
→ Khaki & Dark Red Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-khaki-darkred
→ Burgundy Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks: https://gentl.mn/solid-socks-burgundy
→ Mid Brown Socks with Green & Cream Clocks: https://gentl.mn/midbrown-socks-green-cream-clocks
→ Caramel & Dark Burgundy Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-caramel-burgundy-1
→ Over The Calf in Black Silk Socks: https://gentl.mn/black-silk-socks1
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Light Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-brown-blue-1
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ How To Combine Shoes, Socks & Pants: https://gentl.mn/combine-socks-shoes-pants2
→ 10 Vintage Style Tips: https://gentl.mn/vintage-style-tips
→ How To Keep Socks Up All Day: https://gentl.mn/keep-socks-up1
→ $4 Socks VS $40 Socks: https://gentl.mn/4-vs-40-dollar-socks
→ Brown - The Most Underrated Color in Menswear: https://gentl.mn/brown-most-underrated-color1
→ How To Wear Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/pairing-brown-blue
→ Should You Wear Crazy Socks? https://gentl.mn/crazy-socks
→ Cost Per Wear: https://gentl.mn/cost-per-wear-equation-2
→ Dress Socks Guide: https://gentl.mn/dress-socks-guide
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisor; Preston Schlueter
→ NBC
→ The Geffen Film Company
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
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________________________________________________________________________
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https://gentl.mn/classic-accessories-FB-1
Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-quiz2
00:00 Essential Men's Socks Introduction'
Nowadays socks are one of the most underutilized garments in Classic Menswear. Often purchased in cheap bulk packs with boring colors and we’re here to help you employ socks to their full potential.
00:59 Hallmarks of a Quality Sock: 1. Natural Materials
01:24 2. Over-the-Calf Length
01:55 3. Quality Construction
02:21 4. A Robust Collection
With the basics out of the way, here are our socks suggestions:
03:08 Starting with socks that pair with common trousers colors. 1. Socks that Pair with Blue
04:47 2. Socks That Pair with Grey
06:00 3. Socks that Pair with Brown
07:49 4. Fun Socks
08:37 5. Athletic Socks
09:24 6. No-Show Socks
10:31 7. Black Silk Socks
Hopefully, this video has inspired you to check your sock drawer and ensure that you have everything you need to get your outfits started on the right foot. What socks do you consider essential? Let us know in the comments!
11:54 Outfit Rundown
#menswear #marketing #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Grenadine Silk Tie in Brown: https://gentl.mn/brown-grenadine-tie
→ Charcoal Grey Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/twotone-solid-socks-charcoal-gray
→ Buff Rabbits on Navy Blue with Green Pocket Square: https://gentl.mn/pocket-square-navy-green-rabbits
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Spier & Mackay - High Quality?: https://gentl.mn/spier-mackay-shirts-review
→ "Affordable Luxury" - Myth or Magic?: https://gentl.mn/affordable-luxury1
→ "Custom" - Myth or Magic?: https://gentl.mn/custom-menswear-1
→ Isaia Jackets- Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/review-isaia-jackets
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Disney
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ TED
→ OGI+CO
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
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________________________________________________________________________
Gentleman's Gazette
https://gentl.mn/website-homepage-GG1
https://gentl.mn/classic-accessories-FB1
Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gentleman-quiz-1
00:00 Cutting Out the Middle Man Introduction
Modern menswear companies are awash with advertising that tauts the supposed benefits of “cutting out the middleman”. It refers to a sales model in which a producer sells products directly to consumers.
00:58 Touching on Transparency
When examining any claim about cost-benefit, it is essential that you have access to all of the information. How can you determine if you’re getting a good deal by “cutting out the middleman” unless you know exactly how much money is being saved?
03:00 You’re Not Told What You Really Need To Know
Many direct-to-consumer companies dedicate webpage after webpage explaining to you why this model is so great. But the amount of money you’re “saving” without the “middle man” is immaterial if the product isn’t excellent.
04:12 Buyer Beware
This emphasis on a direct-to-consumer model might seem relatively benign. But from a practical perspective, exaggerating the benefits of any sales model is a hook.
The fact of the matter is, being on guard against hooks is very tricky. You can defend against them by carefully examining the quality of goods and studying reviews to determine if you’re actually getting a good deal.
06:10 Direct-To-Consumer Isn’t Just for Your Benefit
As part of their advertising, many direct-to-consumer companies will give the impression that they’re doing you some kind of favor. Emphasizing what a benefit it is for you.
06:51 There are Downsides to Direct-To-Consumer
You can see that Direct-To-Consumer models tend to paint a very rosy picture of themselves but this model often introduces many inconveniences. You have to wait weeks or even months to receive your product. You can’t try on products in stores. And you have to rely on the company to keep you informed.
08:02 “Becoming the Middleman”
As online retail has exploded in the past decades, more and more conventional companies, like Nike, have utilized online sales to benefit their companies. But those products still need to be advertised, stored, and shipped.
In a traditional retail model, obligations like liability, supply chain management, storage, and shipping are handled at scale by wholesalers or dedicated retailers.
09:25 Responsibly Navigating Direct-To-Consumer Marketing
So, are we concluding that direct-to-consumer companies should be avoided at all costs? NO! As a sales model, direct-to-consumer marketing is a perfectly viable system that can benefit everyone. Provided that manufacturers take the necessary steps to establish a robust supply chain, streamlined sales process, and exceptional customer service and consumers understand and accept the cost-benefit diametric of a direct-to-consumer sales model.
10:40 Conclusion
Ultimately, cutting out the middleman has its advantages and disadvantages, just like any sales model. In many cases, the obligations of the middleman have to be assumed by someone. Overall, there’s nothing wrong with the direct-to-consumer sales model but there is something suspicious about companies that use it as their primary selling point.
11:00 Outfit Rundown
#menswear #rules #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Madder Silk Tie in Blue with Paisley: https://gentl.mn/blue-madder-silk-tie-buff-red-paisley
→ Madder Print Silk Tie in Yellow with Diamond Pattern: https://gentl.mn/yellow-madder-silk-diamond-pattern
→ Ascot in Silver Black Basket Weave Jacquard Silk: https://gentl.mn/ascot-silver-black-basket-weave
→ Dark Magenta Purple Lotus Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/magenta-purple-lotus-boutonniere
→ Collar Bar Clip in Yellow Gold: https://gentl.mn/collar-clip-yellow-gold
→ Jasper Silver Solid Brass Belt Buckle: https://gentl.mn/belt-buckle-silver-jasper
→ Dark Havana Brown Calf Leather Belt: https://gentl.mn/belt-dark-havana-brown
→ Dark Blue & Red Two-Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/two-tone-solid-socks-dark-blue-red
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ How To Pair Tie Knots With Shirt Collars: https://gentl.mn/pair-tie-knots-shirt-collars
→ Sprezzatura Dos & Don’ts: https://gentl.mn/dos-donts-sprezzatura1
→ Pleated Pants: https://gentl.mn/guide-pleated-pants
→ Why Did Men Stop Wearing Pleated Pants?: https://gentl.mn/men-stopped-pleated-pants
→ Is Quality Menswear Dying?: https://gentl.mn/end-quality-menswear1
→ Blazers + Jeans Outfit Ideas: https://gentl.mn/outfit-ideas-blazer-jeans
→ 11 Bad Style Rules To Ignore: https://gentl.mn/11-bad-mens-style-rules
→ How To Wear Brown & Blue: https://gentl.mn/matching-brown-blue
→ Belts + Shoes + Metals: https://gentl.mn/belt-shoes-metal-pairing
→ Men’s Style Review of “Kingsman": https://gentl.mn/style-review-kingsman
→ Lacoste - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/lacoste-poloshirt-review
→ Sunspel - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/sunspel-poloshirts-review
→ Preston Schlueter Sings!: https://gentl.mn/preston-sings-jazz1
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-tuxedo-black-tie
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ The Walt Disney Company
→ 20th Century Studios
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Permanent Style
→ One Dapper Street
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
https://gentl.mn/patron
________________________________________________________________________
Gentleman's Gazette
https://gentl.mn/gg-homepage-website
https://gentl.mn/FBshop-classic-accessories
Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gg-what-gentleman-are-you
00:00 Menswear Rules Introduction
The world of classic menswear is a thoroughly enjoyable place to be – with suits, jackets, shirts, and ties just being the tip of the sartorial iceberg. But, for all of the fun that goes with looking at and wearing classic clothing, some of the conventions can be a real minefield to navigate.
we’ve rounded up some of the biggest menswear rules that you’re likely to have heard of and the reasons why they’ve come to be, and we’ll show you how you can live a more fulfilling life by twisting, bending, or even breaking them.
02:57 Rule #1: There is Only One Exactly “Correct” Tie Length
06:14 Rule #2: Trouser Pleats “must” be forward-facing
08:00 Rule #3: Tweed Jackets can’t be worn with jeans
10:19 Rule #4: “No Brown in Town”
11:53 Rule #5: Brown shoes can’t be worn with a suit
12:57 Rule #6A: All metals “must” match
14:22 Rule #6B: All leathers “must” match
16:53 Rule #7: A “true gentleman” doesn’t own short-sleeved button-up shirts
20:02 Rule #8: Black Tie & White Tie Rules
Those were the several sartorial citations that were sidelined successfully. We’d like to know though, what’s your take on our rule-breaking, and do you have any other rules that you’d like for us to add to the list? Just let us know in the comments below.
22:28 Outfit Rundown
#black #menswear #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Over The Calf in Black Silk Socks: https://gentl.mn/silk-socks-black
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ The Most Overrated Color in Menswear: https://gentl.mn/most-overrated-color1
→ Should You Wear a Back Suit?: https://gentl.mn/mens-black-suit
→ True 1950s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/menswear-1950s
→ True 1960s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/menswear-1960s
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie2
→ James Bond Style Rules: https://gentl.mn/style-rules-james-bond
→ Cheap & Easy Laundry Hacks: https://gentl.mn/laundry-hacks
→ 11 Bad Style Rules To Ignore: https://gentl.mn/bad-mens-style-rules
→ Sprezzatura DOs & DON'Ts: https://gentl.mn/does-donts-sprezzatura
→ Monochromatic Outfits: https://gentl.mn/outfits-monochromatic
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer & Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Paramount
→ Universal Pictures
→ Disney ABC
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Popsugar
→ BET
→ Lionsgate
→ Beatnik Shoes
→ The Solitary Reaper
→ Rebelsmarket
→ Black And White Waiters
→ Immanuel Lutheran Church
→ Sherwood Bands
→ Vanity Fair
→ Banana Republic
→ Suits Expert
→ Looktastic
→ GQ
→ Good Housekeeping
→ Let's Craft Instead
→ Boardwalk Vintage
→ The How To Home
→ Thriftyfun
→ Redcast Heritage
→ Miramax
→ The Skinny Beep
→ Postgradecasanova
→ Dmarge
→ Beyoung
→ Next Luxury
→ The Adult Man
→ Dockers
→ Neiman Marcus
→ James Bond Lifestyle
→ Modern Tie
→ Hawes & Curtis USA
→ A Tie That Binds
→ Men's Wearhouse Tuxedo Rental
→ Dolce Moda
→ He Spoke Style
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00:00 Black Shirt Introduction
Some of you assumed that NO would be our definitive answer. Why? As we’ve previously discussed, we feel that black is the most overrated color in menswear, not because we don’t like black, but because black in modern menswear is often employed in boring and uncreative ways.
02:40 Black Shirt Pros: 1. Black is refined
03:07 2. Black is versatile
03:34 3. Black is modern
04:13 4. Black is vintage
04:40 Black Shirt Cons: 1. Black is hard to maintain
05:24 2. Black shirts are easily marred
05:49 3. Black shirts are hard to combine
06:39 4. Matching all elements of black is hard
07:19 5. Black is everywhere
Now that we’ve considered the pros and cons, let's look at some tips so you can incorporate one with some classic style.
07:52 Styling Tips: Consider Contrast and Complement
Colors that work with black:
→ Salmon
→ Most shades of light to medium gray
→ Earthy greens
→ Cool or blues
→ Most shades of light to medium brown
→ And shades of white, including Off-Whites
08:38 Find the Subtle Sweet-Spot
If you’re not one for bold color combinations, it is possible to pair black shirts with similar dark colors. Ensure there’s sufficient contrast to keep the outfit from appearing like several mismatched shades of black.
09:02 Pick a Punchy Pattern or Atypical Texture
A great way to ensure that your black shirt stands out from the rest of your ensemble is with a bold pattern or obvious texture.
09:45 Keep It Casual
Reserving your black shirt for obviously casual occasions will ensure that it doesn’t force your outfit into the weird middle-ground of casual-but-also-formal.
10:52 Toss the Tie
Neckwear rarely works well with black shirts. They either blend in too much or stand out with too much pop. Neckwear and black shirts are almost exclusively seen as parts of strict monochromatic looks.
11:30 Follow Formality
A black dress shirt is often worn as part of a Black Tie Ensemble. For occasions that call for Black Tie, you shouldn’t be wearing a black dress shirt. It just isn’t part of the established dress code. For Black Tie adjacent dress codes like Alternative Black Tie or Creative Black Tie, you could technically wear this look.
12:02 Conclusion
In most cases, a black shirt is a missed opportunity to instead take advantage of all the great colors you could be wearing. But every now and then a black shirt can be an interesting change.
12:20 Outfit Rundown
#bespokeshoes #measurement #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-brown-beige-2
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ How A Dress Shoe Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/dress-shoe-fit
→ How To Cook The Perfect Steak: https://gentl.mn/perfect-steak2
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Scriptwriter: Jack Collins
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber; harkweberstudio.com
→ SAIC
→ The Bulletin
→ Marcell Mrsan
→ Chris Francis
→ Intel RealSense
→ TG3D Studio
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Melker Shoes
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00:00 Bespoke Measuring Process Introduction
As menswear fans would know, bespoke shoes are superior as they’re handmade especially for a single person, resulting in a fine, dependable pair. Part one is all about taking measurements of the foot so the final result will be something that is comfortable and looks the part.
00:29 What Makes Bespoke Shoes Special?
Why spend thousands of dollars on a pair of bespoke shoes when you can also get a high-end pair of men’s shoes from a factory?
First of all, you get a custom fit that is unrivaled. Secondly, you can choose the exact details and styling that you would likely not get in a factory shoe. Last but not least, you invest in longevity because a bespoke shoe can be resold over and over again, thus bringing the cost-per-wear down considerably.
02:25 Amara Hark Weber: Our Commissioned Shoemaker
Amara Hark Weber from St Paul, Minnesota. Amara is not just a fabulous shoemaker, but also an artist and an educator. And I consider myself really lucky to have someone like her in my backyard because it’s anything but normal to have a bespoke shoemaker close by in the US.
04:15 Bespoke Shoe Fit
“Why do measurements matter if I know my shoe size and my shoes off-the-rack fit me perfectly well?”
Chances are you’ve probably never felt the bespoke fit of a shoe before because, at the end of the day, we’re all humans and no two feet are a hundred percent identical. You may think they’re the same size but, if you look closer, they’re definitely not. Also, a standard size from one manufacturer will be very different from the standard size from another. And, sometimes, even within the same company, different lasts have vastly different sizes.
06:09 5 Steps in Measuring: 1. Sitting for the Fitting
08:35 2. Time to Trace
09:36 3. Getting a Measure of Things
13:17 4. Searching for Sensitivities
14:35 5. Using a Pedograph
Again, different shoemakers may have different measurements; maybe they want to figure out the exact height of your toe-ball area so they can get it really close to your foot. And different makers just have different ways of doing things.
If you’re interested in even more detail and you want to see the full measurement process, become a patron and you can see this very special full video. Otherwise, episode two is all about bespeaking or designing a pair of bespoke shoes.
#neckties #accessories #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Begonia Purple Jacquard Woven Tie with Printed Green and White Diamonds: https://gentl.mn/begonia-purple-jacquard-tie
→ Two-Tone Knit Tie in Red & Navy Blue Changeant Silk: https://gentl.mn/knit-tie-twotone-red-navy
→ Madder Silk Tie in Navy with Diamond Pattern: https://gentl.mn/madder-tie-navy-diamond
→ Collar Bar Clip in Platinum Silver: https://gentl.mn/collar-clip-platinum-silver
→ Pink Triple Clove Boutonniere: https://gentl.mn/pink-triple-clove-boutonniere
→ Pale Pink Linen Pocket Square with X-stitch: https://gentl.mn/pale-pink-pocket-square
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Green & Purple: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-green-purple
→ Silver Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks: https://gentl.mn/monkeyfist-knot-cufflinks-silver
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ The Evolution of Neckwear: https://gentl.mn/evolution-neckwear
→ Bow Ties Definitive Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-about-bow-ties
→ Menswear Expert Reviews "Peaky Blinders": https://gentl.mn/menswear-review-peaky-blinders
→ True 1960s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1960s-menswear1
→ Business Casual Explained: https://gentl.mn/business-casual1
→ Menswear Expert Reviews "Wall Street": https://gentl.mn/wallstreet-menswear-review
→ Is The Suit Dying?: https://gentl.mn/end-of-suit1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E. J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Leacock-Pennebaker, Inc.
→ Paramount Pictures
→ 20th Television
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
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00:00 Men Stop Wearing Ties Introduction
Neckties have gone from being a nearly mandatory accessory to an often-overlooked article. This change is all the more dramatic because of the position once held by the tie.
01:00 Ties in (Recent) History
It was originally associated primarily with Croatian mercenaries in the 17th century and evolved from a “Croat” into a “cravat” and by the 20th century into the tie as we know it today.
02:45 Contributing Factors: 1. Restrictive Dress Codes
04:08 2. The Cultural Revolution of the 1960s
06:01 3. The Rise of Business Casual
07:20 4. An Increasingly Casual World
09:10 5. Tie Fashion Trends
12:47 6. Popular And Media Perception of the Tie Today
Overall, it can be said that nowadays, men, in general, dress specifically for themselves and not for others with whom they are sharing the time or occasion.
15:44 Our Take on Ties
We’d like to conclude by saying that the purpose of this video is not to bemoan the decline of tie-wearing. We endorse that men should dress for themselves but, as with most things, there are limits.
If you love Classic Style, ties will undoubtedly spark excitement as one way to express yourself. Of course, there are circumstances when a tie should really be worn as a matter of respect for the occasion.
17:24 Conclusion
It should come as no surprise that we think ties are remarkably versatile and supremely creative ways to accent your outfits. Adding color and texture as a personal expression that will make you feel confident and creative, not confined and constricted.
18:05 Outfit Rundown
#shoes #trends #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/socks-navy-and-yellow-stripe
→ Mid Brown & Green Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/socks-mid-brown-and-green-stripe
→ Mid Brown Shoelaces Round: https://gentl.mn/shoelaces-round-mid-brown
→ Dark Brown Two Tone Solid Socks: https://gentl.mn/socks-dark-brown-two-tone-solid
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ 15 Terrible Style Trends: https://gentl.mn/disliked-style-trends
→ How Dress Shoe Should Fit: https://gentl.mn/dress-shoe-should-fit
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/guide-blacktie
→ Alligator Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-leather1
→ The Most Overrated Color In Menswear: https://gentl.mn/most-overrated-color
→ How To Dress Your Age: https://gentl.mn/dress-your-age
→ Sneakers - Should Gentlemen Wear Them?: https://gentl.mn/sneakers1
→ Flashy Dress Shoes?: https://gentl.mn/flashy-dress-shoes
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Jack Collins & Preston Schlueter
→ Seth Fowler
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ https://gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
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________________________________________________________________________
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/gentlemans-quiz1
00:00 Shoe Trends Introduction
As devotees of classic style, we prefer our shoes to be like most of the other items in our wardrobe – effortlessly versatile, timelessly styled, and quality investments, and not trendy.
These shoes are intrinsically bad or people who wear them are poorly dressed. It only means that they aren’t indicative of the classic style. As always, wear what you want. But, if what you want is classic style, then we think our opinions will be helpful to you.
00:58 1. Squishy-soled Shoes
02:11 2. Sock-sneakers
03:08 3. Frankenshoes
04:18 4. Crocs
05:45 5. Slides
06:49 6. All-black Trainers
08:07 7. Unnatural Patinas
09:27 8. Overly-embellished Shoes
10:47 9. Square-toed Shoes
So, when it comes to bad shoe trends, are our thoughts on the same page as yours, or were they way off? Let us know in the comments below and, if there are any other shoe trends you’d like to see the back of, let us know about those, too.
12:25 Outfit Rundown
#peakyblinders #outfitreview #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Collar Bar with Ball End in Gold: https://gentl.mn/gold-collar-bar-ball-end
→ Cashmere Scarf in Forest Green Herringbone: https://gentl.mn/scarf-green-herringbone
→ Pocket Square in Green with Orange Large Paisley Pattern: https://gentl.mn/pocketsquare-green-orange-large-paisley
→ Dark Grey Boot Laces Round: https://gentl.mn/grey-boot-laces-round1
→ Grey Socks with Burgundy & White Clocks: https://gentl.mn/grey-socks-burgundy-white-clocks2
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Winchester Shirt Guide: https://gentl.mn/winchester-shirts3
→ Flat Cap Guide: https://gentl.mn/flat-cap-newsboy-hat1
→ How To Shave With A Safety Razor: https://gentl.mn/de-safety-razor
→ True 1920s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1920s-menswear1
→ True 1930s Menswear: https://gentl.mn/1930s-menswear1
→ History of the Suit: https://gentl.mn/evolution-of-suits
→ My Winter Coat Collection: https://gentl.mn/winter-coat-collection-1
→ Signet Ring Primer: https://gentl.mn/signet-ring-primer-1
→ Pinky Ring Guide: https://gentl.mn/pinky-ring
→ Sleeve Length Guide: https://gentl.mn/sleeve-length2
→ Ring Meanings For Each Finger: https://gentl.mn/rings-mean-each-finger
→ Bowler Hat Guide: https://gentl.mn/bowler-hat1
→ Top 10 Stylish Gangster Movies: https://gentl.mn/stylish-gangster-movies2
→ Definitive Guide to Cufflinks: https://gentl.mn/cufflinks-guide1
→ Classic Men's Sleepwear: https://gentl.mn/classic-sleepwear1
→ Why Are Peaky Blinders So Stylish?: https://gentl.mn/peaky-blinders-style
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriters: EB Daniels & Teresa C. Schneider
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
→ DC/Warner Bros.
→ BBC
→ ITV
IMAGE CREDIT:
→ Vinatgebursche
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00:00 Peaky Blinders Menswear Review Introduction
Since its debut in 2013, Peaky Blinders has been one of the hottest TV shows. You even see people with T-shirts saying, “By order of the Peaky Blinders” these days. Other than graphic tees, it has influenced menswear with the resurgence of 20s-style silhouettes.
03:21 Who Were The Real Peaky Blinders?
There was actually a gang called “Peaky Blinders” in the Birmingham of the 1880s until the late 19-teens. They were known for vandalism, burglaries, mugging, and street fighting. Eventually, they conquered rival gangs and became involved with underground casinos, sports betting, and protection rackets.
05:00 Historical Context & Period Accuracy
The 1920s, especially the latter part of it, were a transitional period for menswear. In the early part of the decade, pants or trousers were much slimmer; everything was more inspired by body coats.
Towards the end and into the early 30s, things changed – the drape cut was invented, everything was fuller, and, later on, even pleats appeared. Also, shirt collars changed dramatically; whereas before, your detachable collars that were washed and started separately from the shirt, the Americans really favored softer attached collars that were much more comfortable to wear.
06:10 Peaky Blinders Outfits: 1. Hats
06:29 2. Overcoats
08:44 3. Suits
10:30 4. Collars
12:12 5. Boots
12:34 6. Accessories & Jewelry
13:58 Analysis: Tommy Shelby (played by Cillian Murphy)
18:06 A Note on Hairstyles
19:09 Analysis: Tommy Shelby (continued)
20:08 Arthur Shelby (played by Paul Anderson)
21:15 John Shelby (played by Joe Cole)
22:00 Chester Campbell (played by Sam Neill)
23:30 Alfie Solomon (played by Tom Hardy)
25:06 Luca Changretta (played by Adrien Brody)
26:35 Oswald Mosley (played by Sam Claflin)
27:55 Michael Gray (played by Finn Cole)
28:19 Charles "Darby" Sabini (played by Noah Taylor)
30:47 Our Overall Assessment
I would say, very accurate. The fabrics were accurate, the cuts were often period accurate, and they also paid attention to the accessories like suspender buttons and the suspenders. Maybe the overcoats weren’t quite long enough at times, but still much longer than in many other period shows.
If you want the original old experience, Vintagebursche has a really great video about that.
youtube.com/watch?v=cnDhe_heYvU
If you want the modern take on it, we have something on our website.
https://gentl.mn/peaky-blinders-style
32:20 Outfit Rundown
#cordovan #leather #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Midnight Blue & Burgundy Shadow Stripe Socks: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-blue-burgundy
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Crocodile & Alligator Leather - Why So Expensive?: https://gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-leather
→ How to Shave with a Safety Razor: https://gentl.mn/de-safety-razor-techniques
→ Allen Edmonds - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/allen-edmonds-shoes
→ Chromed Tanned vs. Vegetable Tanned: https://gentl.mn/chrome-vs-veg-tanning
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
IMAGE CREDIT:
→ Block Club Chicago
→ Kemel Imports
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00:00 Cordovan Leather Introduction
Among leather products, Cordovan is often touted as being one of the best, especially when it comes to footwear. From the outside, cordovan leather does look a little different from other types of leather: it’s particularly smooth and lustrous and possesses a rich color.
01:05 What Is Cordovan Leather?
Also known, as “Shell Cordovan”, is derived from the hindquarters of horsehide. The “shell” refers to the specific part of the hide once it has been split horizontally to remove the grain. Meanwhile, the name “cordovan” derives from the Spanish city of Córdoba, and means “from Córdoba”. Thus, together the terms refer to this specific type of horse leather.
02:15 History of Cordovan Leather
Leather has been produced and used since around 2200 BC, however, the first documented use of horse leather was in 7th century Spain. Later, in the 16th and 17th centuries, skilled craftsmen would craft ornately decorated horse leather goods.
The Spanish city of Córdoba has remained a highly reputed area for leather tanning ever since. Even today, you can find artisans in Córdoba who maintain these traditions. Because of its qualities, beauty, and durability, cordovan leather was sought after by Spanish Royalty.
06:12 Cordovan Production
The tanning of cordovan is very complex and labor-intensive. Six months and more than a hundred processes are required to produce a useable hide. Tanning is a process that does two basic things: First, it stops the natural decomposition process, and second, tanning develops the desired characteristics of the leather.
08:50 Characteristics of Shell Cordovan
→ Lustrous Shine
→ Tough Stuff
→ No Cracks Here
→ Distinctive Tones
14:48 Downsides of Cordovan Leather
→ Longer Break-In
→ Challenging Upkeep
→ Casual by Nature
19:45 So, Why Is It So Expensive?
In a nutshell, the high price of cordovan comes down to the low supply of hides, the high demand for them, and the long, complicated tanning process. Unlike cattle, horses are only raised as part of the food chain in a few places around the world, meaning the supply of horsehides is small and unlikely to grow. As we’ve already seen, tanning alone takes 6 months and a great deal of handwork. Any labor-intensive process will drive the price up at the tanning stage
21:33 Conclusion
Overall, Cordovan leather is a truly unique, intriguing material with a luster that goes deeper than its natural shine. Even with its lofty asking price, cordovan that is well looked after will endure the test of time exceptionally well and will be a joy to behold each time you wear it.
22:07 Outfit Rundown
#watches #accessories #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown & Beige: https://gentl.mn/stripe-socks-brown-beige2
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Formality Scale: https://gentl.mn/formality1
→ Omega - Is It Worth It?: https://gentl.mn/omega
→ Business Casual Explained: https://gentl.mn/business-casual
→ Belts + Shoes + Metals: https://gentl.mn/belts-shoes-metal
→ Black Tie Guide: https://gentl.mn/black-tie1
→ 10.05 Fb shop
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins & Nathan Price
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ Additional Watches Provided by Delray Watch Supply: delraywatch.com
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
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Facebook: facebook.com/gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: https://gentl.mn/quiz-gentlemansgazette1
→ Thank you for Delray Watch for sending the watches used in the video! delraywatch.com/pre-owned-watches
00:00 Right Watch to Wear Introduction
If you like timepieces, and as soon as you have more than one watch in your collection, you now have a decision to make: Which one do I wear?
Ultimately, with things being far more casual these days, it’s a lot easier to wear different watches in different situations.
01:01 Casual
That means you want to skip the dress watches here. Elegant designs and timeless styling are much too jarring in these situations and won’t create a harmonious look. Instead, choose a watch that has practicality at the center of its design. Sports watches that boast features such as water resistance are right at home in casual scenarios.
02:30 Smart Casual/Semi-Casual/Everyday
Clothes in this category may very well overlap with your casual pieces, but the trick with the everyday dress code is being able to incorporate clothes of a slightly higher formality too. The watches from our previous casual category would also feel right at home here.
04:35 Business Casual
Things are now at a point where those super casual watches should now be left on the dresser. This dress code still allows for those smart strap choices to be seen but this time around you can start to add more refined leather.
Whichever strap you choose, the focus for watches in this category should be streamlining the face and features.
05:55 Business
The watches you choose for this formality are certainly on the dressy side. While some of the watches we just spoke about for business casual will still be absolutely fine here, there are some details you want to take care of.
07:09 Formal Wear
It may surprise you to hear that the answer is: No watch should be worn here. Traditionally, wearing a watch with your evening wear is considered poor etiquette. Having a timepiece displayed on your wrist or on a pocket watch chain gives the impression that you’re not fully invested in where you are.
As black tie rules are a little more forgiving than white tie, it is acceptable to add a timepiece to your black-tie ensemble. Assuming you’re following the classic styles of black tie outfits, this watch needs to be equally elegant.
09:23 Outfit Rundown


