Cobbler Bob
1971 Cutlass Ep 32: BAD new $1,875 Converter!
updated
0:40 Intro & what the vintage Bostonian niche is
1:21 Comparing these Bostonians to a current Allen Edmonds McAllister and a Chester from the 2000's
2:44 Comparing the Bostonian Impression 12 3E sizing and last shape to the Allen Edmonds McAllister 65 Last
7:56 Why you might WANT Corrected Grain leather vs Full Grain (water test)
9:12 Comparing style differences
11:12 Results of the quick Corrected Grain vs Full Grain leather water test
15:50 Showing the Allen Edmonds Chester from the early 2000's
16:54 Cleaning up the Bostonian's corrected grain leather is easy
17:32 Showing poor quality corrected grain leather
17:55 Showing another nice pair of Bostonians
19:21 Conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner
23:12 Repairing the Aglet
24:53 Mirror Shining the toes with Saphir Mirror Gloss
27:36 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with black Saphir Mirror Gloss
28:52 Putting a little neutral Kiwi polish on the bottom of the soles
29:23 Removing the price in paint pen with Saphor Renomat
29:55 Approximate dating the shoes
34:45 The finished result and commentary on the fit/comfort
Some links mentioned in the video:
www.TheBrogueExchange.com
www.PurePolishProducts.com
Link to Leather Talk Interview with Andy from Pure Polish: youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Shoe Showcase: Allen Edmonds McAllister vs Chester": youtu.be/B-JQ1OCLMSE
"Bostonians: Thrifter’s Guide / New USA Shoes!": youtu.be/ekXNX4SN_x0
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
"Barrel Full of Sea Monkeys" by The Whole Other
"75 Lower" by DJ Williams
"Salgre" by Jimmy Fontanez - Media Rights Productions
0:28 The before condition and inspection of the leather
1:18 A tip on when to replace Allen Edmonds Top Lifts (heels)
2:24 What to do when your shoe trees aren't big enough
3:17 Removing the laces
3:44 Pro tip for laces if working on multiple shoes
4:01 Simultaneously cleaning and conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
9:30 Brushing the conditioned uppers
10:37 Polishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D'Or #8 Bordeaux cream polish
12:25 Brushing off the polished uppers
13:05 Burnishing the toes with black Medaille D'Or cream polish
14:15 Mirror shining the toe caps with neutral Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss wax
14:54 Stripping off the darkened toes
17:04 Shining the heel counters
17:22 Cleaning off the welt
17:50 Using Saphir renomat to remove the price
18:40 Shining the bottoms of the soles with Kiwi neutral paste wax
19:51 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with black Saphir Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss paste wax
20:18 Approximate dating the shoes based on the logo and insoles
21:39 The finished result!
24:14 Closing photos and outro
Another related video:
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes": youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
Pure Polish Products are available at:
www.PurePolishProducts.com
Saphir products are available at:
www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.com
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"The Bywater" by The Mini Vandals
My eBay username: robertepowers
My username on www.TheBrogueExchange.com: Cobbler Bob
Instagram: robert_powers_
Reddit: u/CobblerBob
0:34 Meet Zach & why he wants to dress better?
1:35 Measuring Zach’s feet
3:07 Trying on a pair of Kilgore French & Stanbury quarter brogue Oxfords
3:35 Reviewing the features of the KF&S shoes (they were featured in a past color change video)
4:28 Meet my youngest daughter
4:40 His outfit is already much improved just with decent shoes!
4:46 Off to the thrift store: it’s a Numbers Game!
5:48 My theory with finding really nice suits in thrift stores
6:29 The best way to dress when shopping for new clothes
6:55 What to do when the store’s dressing rooms are closed
8:08 How we searched, what I look for
8:53 A nice example of a $2,000 suit for $100
9:15 A good day! $68 worth of finds!
9:25 Showing what we found & the prices
10:48 Romeo was happy to see us back
10:59 Outfit #1: a light brown 3 button sport coat and khaki slacks
11:32 Outfit #2: un-distressed jeans and the pink Chaps Oxford collar shirt
11:50 Outfit #3: adding the HS&M suit jacket to outfit #2
12:20 Outfit #4: the HS&M suit with the pink Chaps shirt
13:12 IMHO wearing nice suits are under rated today
13:58 My closing thoughts with “before & after” photos
Links to other related videos:
“Before & After: Color change on KF&S Full Grain Oxfords!”
youtu.be/-Khdu70WsPE
Zach Gobah (artist name "Aq Xico") has written, recorded, and produced some of his own original music. Check it out here: Link to his YouTube page "Gobah":
youtube.com/channel/UCLsy0RMrUJxfXug3X9pClNA
"Aq Xico - Rise!":
youtu.be/SHQpBgz4oFI
"Aq Xico - Fall (feat. Kaysha Brown-Fox)":
youtu.be/dSppeIM_Uqg
YouTube Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
My personal preferred brand of shoe polishes and conditioners are Pure Polish Products, available at www.PurePolishProducts.com.
Saphir products can be purchased at Kirby Allison's website:
www.KirbyAllison.com
Link to The Elegant Oxford's website:
www.TheElegantOxford.com
Here's the video I referred to in the video (it was released August 2018 before I was introduced to Pure Polish Products):
"Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head!":
youtu.be/E5IrU5b7C2o
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz
0:33 Dating the shoe by the logo, features, date code, & AE catalogs
3:08 The "before" condition (uppers, heels, and soles)
3:48 2019 McAllister vs the 1991 Marlow differences
8:17 Cleaning the uppers with Saphir Reno Mat
9:55 Repairing the uppers by sanding for full grain leather, but not corrected grain
12:24 Re-coloring the sanded spots with Fiebings Dard Red alcohol dye
13:53 Burnishing the sanded and dyed areas with a wooden tool
14:35 Moisturizing teh uppers with Pure Poilish Products Cleaner Conditioner
16:33 Polishing with Pure Polish Products burgundy cream polish
19:31 Filling some of the cuts/gouges with LM Products with LM Products LM Filler and LM Stop Crash repair kit
26:30 Burnishing & polishing the repaired area again
27:49 Burning off some loose threads
28:08 darkening the repaired areas and the tips of the toes with Saphir Medaille D'Or black cream wax
28:51 Another round of polish with Saphir Medaille D'Or Bordeaux cream polish
30:38 Creating new top lifts from 5mm thick heeling rubber from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis, IA, USA
32:09 Showing how Allen Edmonds constructs the heels and when exactly you should replace the top lift by
32:38 Prepping, gluing, and attaching the new top lifts
35:31 Shaping the top lifts on the belt sander & hand sanding to finish them
36:22 Re-dying the edges of the heels with Simple Shine black edge dressing
37:01 Waxing the edges of the heels with Saphir Medaille D'Or black Mirror Gloss wax
38:10 Applying a Mirror Shine with Pure Polish Produts neutral High Shine Paste Wax
40:44 The Finished Result!
43:13 Outro & credits
Music Credits: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
2. "Whishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz
3. "Way Out West" by Chris Haugen
4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
5. "Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz
6. "The Bywater" by The Mini Vandals
0:36 Reference to "Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head", and why I'm only examining 3 polishes
1:33: Kiwi polish ingredients
3:30 Saphir Medaille D'Or Mirror Gloss ingredients
4:38 The Executive summary of my Kiwi vs Saphir video and why Pure Polish wasn't included
5:14 Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax Polish ingredients
6:28 Pure Polish vs Saphir: which do I personally prefer and why?
8:45 Product smell test
10:11 5 reasons I prefer high end products (Saphir or Pure Polish Products) over cheap products
12:29 Some additional technical information from Andy, the owner of Pure Polish
13:56 Closing remarks
Links to other relevant videos I mentioned:
"Kiwi vs Saphir: Spit Shine Head to Head!":
youtu.be/E5IrU5b7C2o
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2":
youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Stuff" by Otis McDonald
Other related videos:
I make a reference to Russel, the "Sartorial Chauffer" who was featured in Allen Edmonds' Fall 2022 catalog!
"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2"
youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
www.PurePolishProducts.com
Special Thanks to Brady Souther! His info:
www.TheBrogueExchange.com
Instagram: @thebrogueexchange.com
Email: thebrogueexchange@gmail.com
The recent ascension of HRH King Charles III re-surfaced some old pictures of a couple pair of his black John Lobb cap toe Oxfords. These Oxfords have perfect mirror shined toe caps, but the vamps are cracked, and have 3 different patches sewed onto them! Here's an article:
http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.com/2012/04/hrh-prince-charles-and-his-old-bespoke.html
I realized my shoes are not in as bad condition as his, so they're still viable. I got re-interested in them, and gave them one more round of sanding on the right vamp. In hindsight, I would have defenitely used a different leather repair product, or at LEAST the correct color product. I think the final result is pretty decent! These shoes are unique. I don't recall seeing another pair adorned like these. Having broguing on the toe cap is not unusual, but the way the eyestays have a line of broguing along the trademark J&M "swan's neck" IS unusual. This unique broguing combined with the new mahogany color makes them unique and special in my wardrobe. Even though I'm a size 11.5 EE, they fit me quite well.
They looked like they had rubber protective half soles applied at one time, then had them removed , then were walked on, so re-applying a new set of them was in order. The edges of the soles had "mushroomed" out, so I squared them up by sanding. The secondary reason to do this is to get the edge of the soles square, rather than rounded, to get good adhesion of the new rubber protective half soles. The top lifts had been replaced at some point with thicker ones, upsetting the heel balance. I replaced them with thinner rubber leather combo heels I created from 9-10 oz heeling leather & 5mm thick rubber sheet I purchased from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis (317) 636-8300 phone (the last time I checked, they had a Facebook page, but no website).
The Pure Polish Products I used are available at:
ww.PurePolishProducts.com
0:30 The before condition
1:15 Explanation of Cap toe vs Quarter Brogue vs Semi-brogue vs Full Brogue
2:12 Soles condition
2:54 Heel balance problem
3:54 Creasing & cracking on the uppers
4:35 Stripping the uppers with acetone
6:45 How to learn to do a Patina/dye job
7:52 Sanding out cracks
9:22 Spectator? Airbrushing the uppers. I tried for a tan & brown combo, but it didn't pan out. Again, this was in early 2021.
11:27 Moistruizing uppers Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner
12:16 "Time out" - why the 1.5 year gap, & how the coronation of HRH King Charles III re-sparked my interest
14:53 Sanding sole edges & bottoms
15:40 Polishing the uppers (I didn't record all of it) with PP & Saphir
16:35 Creating leather-rubber combo heels from 9-10 oz leather ?& 5mm heeling rubber
19:03 Sanding sole edges
19:26 Trimming/sanding the heel breasts
20:13 Cutting & gluing the 2mm thick rubber sheet (Chic brand)
21:07 Trimming the rubber soles
22:50 Polishing/brushing the sole and heel edges
23:25 Removing some color from the toe caps & quarters
24:54 Shining the uppers
26:38 Problems w/ the right vamp & re-hydrating
28:15 Mirror Shine with PP High Shine wax (with Tips!)
36:20 Shining the heel counters
36:40 Removing the paint penned price
37:05 Polishing soles/heels
37:35 The final result?
39:05 Re-stripped the vamps and re-polished
40:21 The REAL final result
42:47 Outro
Other relevant videos:
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
"rEVERSe Patina on Thrifted Allen Edmonds Woven Derby!"
youtu.be/q5ShufO31AI
"Why When & How to Condition Shoes! Calf & Shell Cordovan"
youtu.be/Dh00wY0qjU8
Music/Audio Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library & Mixkit.co
"Again" by Density & Time
"Salgre" (YouTube Audio Library, artist unknown)
"Bluesed and Abused" by Quincas Moreira
"75 Lower" by DJ Williams
"Island Coconuts" by Aaron Kenny
0:26 Showing the shoes, size and condition
1:05 Dating the shoes by de-coding the date code and logos
2:33 1987 vs 2001 shoes sole stitching diffrence
2:54 The sole and heel wear & my plan for these shoes
4:50 Removing the laces & Stripping the shoes with Acetone & cotton balls
8:33 Airbrushing the uppers with Fiebings tan mixed with medium brown, and then some black.
12:09 The result of the airbrushing and a great tip for conditioning leather
13:01 Conditioning the uppers with Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing
16:19 Round two of conditioning with Saphir Renovateur (Mink oil based conditioner)
18:00 Shining the uppers with Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish
19:36 Brushing the uppers
21:08 How to Mirror Shine the toe caps with Pure Polis Products High Shine Paste Wax Polish. I provide a lot of Mirror Shining tips and tricks through this part
28:34 An example of the perfect time to add a drop of water
29:12 What to check if you keep getting stratches in the mirror shine
31:50 Shining the edges of the heels and soles with Kiwi black paste wax
32:55 Removing the price in paint pen from the sole
33:17 Shining the soles
33:40 The finished result!
37:23 Closing still shots, outro, & credits
Other related videos:
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
Pure Polish Products website" www.PurePolisProducts.com
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
"Bark" by Jon Deeley and the 41 Players
"Lucky Rubber Duckey" by Quincas Moreira
"Palms" by Text Me Records / Bobby Renz
"Sunny Over the Horizon" by Rage
"Walking in Line" by Freedom Trail Studio
0:44 The 1st pair of shoes: my friend's tan Johston & Murphy semi-brogue Oxfords that need a good cleaning & shine
1:21 Showing the J&M's false/cosmetic sole stitching
1:51 Pair #2: a pair of Bostonian "Classics" quarter brogue Oxfords with Blake Stitched soles in New Old Stock condition
2:43 Pair #3: a pair of vintage Florsheim wing tip loafers probably made in 1987 featuring Goodyear Welted construction
4:41 Which pair are better, the NOS corrected grain Bostonians, or the full grain leather Florsheims? And why the answer isn't so simple
6:30 Three Simple rules for taking basic care of shoes
6:56 Saddle soaping the J&Ms
8:03 Saddle soaping the Florsheims
9:02 Conditioning the J&Ms with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner
12:18 Conditioning the vintage Florsheims with PP Cleaner Conditioner
15:54 Conditioning the NOS Bostonian Oxfords
16:08 Applying a little PP High Shine paste wax to the toe caps of the Bostonians
17:58 Brushing off then polishing the J&Ms with PP Water Resistant Cream Polish
19:12 Applying PP Burgundy cream polish to the vintage Florsheims
20:05 Brushing off the J&Ms
20:21 Applying a couple coats of PP High Shine Paste Wax to the toes of the J&Ms
20:33 Brushing off the Florsheims
20:54 Back to the toe caps of the J&Ms
21:11 PP High Shine paste wax for the toes of the Florsheims
21:24 Repairing a small tear in the Florsheims with Saphir Creme Renovatrice
23:04 Replacing a missing tassel on the Florsheims
27:39 Replacing the rubber top lifts on the Florsheims with a pair of Vibram leather rubber top lifts left over from another job
32:41 Sanding down the edges of the new top lifts
38:38 Trimming the edges of the leather portion of the new top lifts
34:40 Finishing the heel breast
35:11 Adding brass nails to the leather portion of the top lifts
37:40 Re-coloring the edges of the heels on the Florsheims
38:05 Re-coloring the uppers where I damaged them sanding
38:17 Burnishing the raw eges of the leather top lifts
40:04 Cutting out new padding for the insoles for the Florsheims
41:18 The Florsheims finished
41:57 The finished result: All 3 pairs finished up
43:14 Outro and closing still shots
Pure Polish Products website: www.purepolishproducts.com
Saphir products are available at www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.com
I believe this is the leather working tools kit my wife bought for me:
eBay item #124437839300 - It's cheap, but I only use mine once or twice a month, so it's fine for home use.
For Saphir products go to www.kirbyallison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.com
Other relevant videos:
"How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching!"
youtu.be/-oRWEzvoVe8
"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"
youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
0:30 Showing the Lauren Ralph Lauren sport coat
1:30 Showing the Jones New York suit
3:04 6 inch drop in a suit explained
3:59 Showing how the Jones New York suit fits as purchased
4:12 close-up of the fabric pattern
5:42 Tips on how to find great items thrifting
10:44 The LRL jacket shown paired with a few different slacks
12:09 Letting out/tailoring the waist of the suit slacks
17:47 Ironing out the old creases
18:25 How to prep a new suit: removing the tags, and opening the vents and pockets
19:27 A close-up of the original $350 Jones New York price tag
21:27 The final result
22:14 Outro & closing still shots
Other relevant videos:
"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2":
youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c
"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 2/2"
youtu.be/PIenM1qARYE
"How To Spot A Quality Suit - Hallmarks of Expensive Bespoke Suits For Men - Gentleman's Gazette":
youtu.be/88X5kL7Gn5A
"Suit Up! The 10 GOLDEN Rules To Buying A Suit (With Style)" RMRS:
youtu.be/FroveScaTqw
"Ranking Men's RTW Suits (54 BEST and WORST Menswear Brands!)"
youtu.be/-ZaF54ux5N0
"Suit Lingo & Terminology Explained I - Lapels, Gorge, Stance, Belly..."
youtu.be/0bCfVJE-Ecw
Music Credit: "Wishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz from YouTube Audio Library
Thank you for watching! Please leave a comment below and consider subscribing. I will be releasing all of my future videos on Fridays at 5:00 PM EST. I generally release a couple, sometimes 3 videos a month.
0:29 Reviewing the suit
1:15 How to tell if the Jacket body length is correct?
2:27 How to tell if the shoulders of a jacket fit ?
3:00 Getting clues as to the jacket materials and build quality
4:02 My goal: to add 2 to 2-1/2" to the waist
4:22 Showing the let out / "The Aspiring Gent" / ripping the seam
7:07 Marking the fabric to add in 1-1/8" to each side (2-1/1" total)
8:80 Setting up the sewing machine
9:43 Sewing up the back seam from the inside
12:27 Showing the result & the pleated pants but no cuffs
13:07 Ironing out the creases from the old seam
13:51 Reattaching the belt loop
14:48 The finished result!
16:05 The finished suit with the jacket on
16:44 Closing shots & Outro
0:32 The reason for this video
1:05 (A) The "Average Joe" defined
1:40 (B) The "Businessman" defined
1:58 (C) The "Connioseur" defined
2:18 Tip #1 What not to do
2:34 What are the 1st 3 shoes to buy?
4:28 (A) Average Joe: what construction features to look for?
6:25 (A) Why you should NOT get the good leather? (LEATHER TEST)
9:16 The difference in heels of cheap vs nice shoes
10:16 (B) The Businessman: some shoe choices
13:33 3 Rules for Full Grain shoe care
13:50 Shoe rotation
15:55 (A) Average Joe: Examples of what to buy
17:13 (B) Businessman on a BUDGET: Examples of what to buy
19:25 (B) Businessman choices: Allen Edmonds
25:00 Some chioces for (B) the Businessman or (C) the Connioseur:
27:45 Summary (feek free to screen shot)
Music credit: YouTube Audio Library
"Gypsy Dance" by Topher Mahr & Alex Elena
0:50 The real objective to dying the thrifted Carlisles
1:23 Showing the Allen Edmonds Carlyle plain toe Oxfords
2:23 Stripping the finish off of the Carlyles with Acetone
3:29 Re-introducing Hayden & his brand new AE Park Avenue cap toe Oxfords
4:57 Dying the base color on the Carlyles
6:20 Explaining adding the marbling
7:40 Adding the marbling/musem finish on the Carlyles. This is the experimenting and learning process.
14:10 Moisturizing the shoes with Saphir Renovatuer (mink oil based)
20:04 The initial result - what did we learm, what do we need to fix?
21:55 "Fixing" and evening up the difference between the shoes, and adding more marbling with acetone
23:20 A second review of the result & more evening them up
25:19 Polishing the Carlyles with Pure Polish Neutral Cream Polish
26:06 cleaning the paint pen off the heels
26:26 Brushing off the Carlyles
27:06 re-coloring the edges of the soles & heels with Saphir #37 Medium Brown Medaille D'Or Cream Polish
27:27 Adding the Mirror Shine with Pure Polish Products High Shine Paste Wax
27:51 Starting on Hayden's new AE Park Avenues & how he stripped them
28:54 Hayden's goal with the shoes
29:34 Spraying on the Fiebings Light Blue base color diluted 1:1 with alcohol
31:38 Adding additional burnishing to the toes of the PA's
32:19 Showing the difference after moisturizing one shoe and conditioning the other shoe
33:24 Experimenting with different materials to add the marbling
34:46 Adding the marbled "Musem" finish to the PA's with a trimmed fairly dry cotton dauber with Fiebings Navy dye and some acetone
37:55 Dying the soles with Fiebings Turquoise and Purple
39:00 Conditioning the uppers again and the soles
39:22 Touch-ups
39:33 Polishing the PA's with Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish
40:50 Brushing off the PA's
41:28 Mirror shining the toes with Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax
42:05 The finished results on both pairs
45:26 Hayden's PA's paired with one of his made to measure Savile Lane 3 piece suits. Note: Hayden has lost weight since the suit was made.
47:55 Closing photos and outro
Blue Leather Dye guide:
For a true light blue use Fiebings "Turquoise"
For a medium blue use Fiebings "Light Blue", and you may need to dilute it
For a Navy blue that will appear black in lower light, use Fiebings "Navy Blue"
Fiebings Purple is very purple
Other related videos:
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes":
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
"Before & After: My 1st Museum Patina!"
youtu.be/81j8nLnKV6E
Preston Soto's The Elegant Oxford video "Marble Patina Tutorial: An Artistic Flair for Your Dress Shoes":
youtu.be/oP80oDyMkM4
Link to 10mL "5Pcs Refillable Atomizer Perfume Spray Glass Empty Bottle Travel Portable Pump"
ebay.com/itm/154144010178?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rombu6natdm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=zgXegjhwQx6&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Alberto Suastez "Patina Works Arizona" his instagram:
@PatinaWorksAZ
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Like You MEan It" by Dan Lebowitz
"221B Baker Street" by Hanu Dixit
"Wolf Kisses" by Otis McDonald
"Again" by Density & Time
"Tiptoe Out the Back" by Dan Lebowitz
"Calluses II" by William Rosati
**UPDATE** The video states that I would receive my shoes in late September of 2022. I was informed that there is a dalay, and it would be late October of 2022 instead. I'll do an unboxing video ASAP!
0:34 Who is Cobbler Union & what features do they offer?
4:44 A look at CU's Goodyear Welting construction
6:25 How does CU fit shoes for me online?
7:25 What is a "Last"?
8:15 What is a Brannock Device, and how do you use it?
10:52 Tips for correct shoe sizing
11:29 Choosing CU shoes fit compared to other brands, such as Allen Edmonds 65 Last
13:30 The 3 golden rules for purchasing shoes such that they're still returnable as new.
14:50 What kind of shoe I'm shopping for
15:40 The "Adelaide" size 12D in museum cognac & explanation of the 358 Last.
20:49 Explanation of the ball of the foot, the instep, and forefoot & what kind of foot I have.
22:05 The "Adelaide" size 12.5D on the 888 Last
24:00 The 888 Last size 12.5 vs Allen Edmonds 65 Last size 11.5 3E and the 358 size 12D vs the 888 size 12.5D
25:00 The "Alex UR" Long Wing Blucher, 312 Last size 12D
28:10 Showing the Winston UR wingtip Oxford on the 312 Last
30:30 The "Francis" on the Louvre last, sizes 12.5D and 13D
33:15 Explanation of the 357 Last and some future changes
35:05 The "Richard" cap toe Oxford in marbled museum Oxblood on the City Last, size 12.5D
35:59 Comparing the heel on the 270 Goodyear Welt vs 360 Goodyear Welt
37:50 "Does it bring you joy?" (Marie Kondo)
38:32 The "William" semi-brogue Oxford on the City Last, size 12.5D in cognac calf
40:17 A SUMMARY of the BEST CU Lasts for WIDE FEET (to Screenshot)
41:08 The 358 Last vs the City Last feature differences: narrowed fiddlebaqck waist, beveled waist
42:21 A tour of the shoes in their showroom
44:20 My final shoe selection revealed
44:40 A close pass of 6 different styles I tried on
45:11 A closer look at the shoe I purchased
46:46 Summary & closing comments
48:26 Future video release schedule & Outro
My apologies for the less than perfect audio quality. The audio was difficult to capture because of the open room with brick walls, and I know it would be better if I had better equipment.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
"Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov"
Other relevant videos:
"Cobbler Union Visit - New "Affordable Luxury" shoes"
youtu.be/PItB6OSXGZI
"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"
youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g
This video is marked as having a paid promotion because according to YouTube's rules, a paid promotion includes "pieces of content that are created for a third party in exchange for compensation. This content is also where the third party's brand, message, or product is integrated directly into the content."
I was not compensated by Cobbler Union for this video, but I was given a discount on my own purchase.
The original givewaway announcement was at 14m 46s into this following video:
"Dying a BELT to match my Custom Patina Shoes":
youtu.be/4cdzNpzldN0
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3":
youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 2/3":
youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 3/3":
youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKw
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Fond Memories" by SYBS
1. WHY you should condition your leather shoes
2. WHEN (how often) you should condition them
3. HOW you should condition them, including which kind of products you may want to use. I cover the two MAJOR conditioning mistakes you'll want to avoid.
Of course, I have my favorites products, but what this video does NOT cover is which specific products you should personally use. I believe it's more important that you condition them at the appropriate times, and in the appropriate manner, than which exact product you should use. There are at least a dozen leather conditioning products I didn't even mention here, and several I have used (like Shoe MGK and Kiwi Leather Lotion) that I have used and chose not to include in the video.
0:30 – Intro & my disclaimer
1:06 – Why to condition your shoes
2:00 – A list of a few different conditioning products with some comments on each of them
2:05 – Tanner’s Blend byAshland Leather Co
3:13 - Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing by Lexol
3:43 - Renovateur by Saphir
4:28 – Bick 4 Leather Conditioner by Bickmore
5:13 – Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner by Pure Polish
6:05 – #1: Light conditioning leather with cream shoe polish (AE Park Avenues & Pure Polish Cream Polish)
9:47– #2: Standard conditioning with Conditioner (AE Strands & Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner)
14:41 – The 2 MAJOR MISTAKES people make when conditioning leather
17:08 – Shining up the Strands by brushing after conditioning
18:25 – #3: Heavy Conditioning with multiple rounds of Conditioner (AE Cornwallis with Patina)
20:18 – #4: Cleaning & heavy conditioning with multiple rounds of Conditioner (Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial 93605’s)
21:58 – Using Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner with a Cloth to clean and condition
29:04 – Using Pure Polish with my finger to condition
30:00 – Brushing off the shoes after the Pure Polish
30:52 – Using Bickmore Bick 4 to condition
31:37 – Brushing off the shoes after the Bick 4
32:04 – Using Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing
34:05 – Brushing off the shoes after Lexol
35:21 – Understanding why this is not an exact science
37:16 – Closing comments & outro
Other related videos:
"Leather Talk with Andy from Pure Polish":
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1"
youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
"Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?"
youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE
"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?" (it's one of my earlier videos, so the graphics are a little cheesey):
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
"Before & After: My 1st Museum Patina!" (The AE Cornwallis video):
youtu.be/81j8nLnKV6E
"Which Polo Ralph Lauren shoes are Best?":
youtu.be/fg9v3V1t6AI
"Repairing Cracked Leather Polo Shoes":
youtu.be/SrRYxK9s9lk
Some links:
www.PurePolishProducts.com for Pure Polish Products
www.AshlandLeather.com for Ashland Leather Co products
www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.com for Saphir products
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library: "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
In my opinion, Allen Edmonds may be making more mistakes or letting shoes out with errors that they shouldn't, but I think the problem is most likely exaggerated because of the microscope effect of social media.
Other related videos:
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
This is the other video with Hayden that I referred to. I released it July of 2018 featuring a pair of Allen Edmonds:
"My Allen Edmonds have a spot that won't shine?!"
youtu.be/Dmx7dJm-j9M
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
0:28 - Introduction to content & explanation of 1st test
1:51 - Test #1 - Polyester blend slacks & result
2:24 - Test #2 - Wool slacks & results
3:10 - More in-depth explanation of Thermal Conductivity
4:31 - Thermal conductivities data of various fabrics from TextileStudyCenter
5:58 - The two pairs of slacks color compared side by side
6:24 - What kind of dress shirts to wear
8:06 - The Master Roll (I learned this from Real Men Real Style)
9:36 - A brief overview of what kind of Sport Coats and Suit Jackets to get
10:25 - What is Bemberg?
12:04 - What can we learn from how people dress in the Middle East to stay cool
13:44 - Summary - 5 tips to stay cool
15:22 - Outro and closing shots
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
"Beech Disco" by Dougie Wood
Other related videos:
"Buying a NICE suit for under $300? / Why pay for Tailoring?":
youtu.be/DJ-Wps6QgBE
Real Men Real Style channel "How To Roll Up Shirt Sleeves - 3 Ways To Fold Mens Dress Shirt Sleeve - Male Style Advice":
youtu.be/s6rvFKbRuuA
"Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits":
youtu.be/z3abMoo0gQc
0:38 – A piece of fan mail!
1:52 – Reviewing the condition of the Allen Edmonds Cornwallis Adelaide Oxfords
4:11 – An educated guess on when these shoes were produced, and when they were re-crafted
5:18 – The game plan for the shoes
5:50 – Showing a new product “LM Filler”. I wound up no needing it for these shoes, so I’ll review it in a later video.
7:00 – The apron with my logo embroidered onto it (by Blonde Lobster Embroidery in Stow, OH)
8:01 – Step 1 – stripping the shoes with Saphir Renomat
10:38 – Step 2 - Sanding the cracks and surface damage out with 220 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit
13:00 – Step 3 – Stripping the uppers with Acetone
14:19 – Introducing Hayden and the reason I’m doing a blue museum patina on the Cornwallis’s
16:10 – Step 4 – Airbrushing the blue base color
18:20 – Notes/lessons from the airbrushing
19:39 – Step 5 – Adding the “Museum” effect
24:25 – More lessons from adding the Museum effect
28:04 – Step 6 – Conditioning the uppers with Saphir Renovateur (mink oil based conditioner)
29:36 – Step 7 - Brushing the uppers with a horse hair brush
30:04 – Step 8 - Polishing & additional conditioning to the uppers with Saphir and Pure Polish Cream Polish
31:55 – Step 9 – Brushing the uppers again
32:18 – Step 10 – Adding a Mirror Shine to the toes with Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax Polish & a Pure Polish mirror shining cloth
34:00 – The final result and my self-critique/”next time I will” list
38:08 – Still shots indoors and outdoors and outro/credits
Thank you Walter Ferek for the Apron!
Related videos:
Preston Soto of The Elegant Oxford's video "Marble Patina Tutorial: An Artistic Flair for Your Dress Shoes":
youtu.be/oP80oDyMkM4
"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes":
youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes":
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
2 videos explaining Corrected Grain vs Full Grain leather:
1. "High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!:
youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM
2. "Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
- Note: #2 is an older video with poorer video production quality.
The first video Hayden was in: "My Allen Edmonds have a spot that won't shine?!":
youtu.be/Dmx7dJm-j9M
"How I put a Patina on my old Bostonian Loafers"
youtu.be/o3eGg9N_sRw
Go to www.PurePolishProducts.com for polishes, waxes, conditioners, and shine cloths, or to www.TheElegantOxford.com or www.KirbyAllison.com for Saphir products.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Beach_Disco" by Dougie Wood
2. "Wishful Thinking" by Dan Lebowitz
3. "Way Out West" by Chris Haugen
4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
0:35 - Introduction / Explanation
1:17 - Hart Shaffner & Marx blue pinstriped suit - what features makes it worth buying; est retail cost
3:11 - Oxxford Grey pinstriped suit features & full retail cost
5:00 - Baumler (Romanian) medium quality jacket, nearly new for $5, showing the features/construction: is it high quality?
9:00 - The Baumler jacket shown paired with several different shirt/slacks combinations
11:22 - Vintage Florsheim Imperial 93605 Shell Cordovan Long Wing Bluchers size 12C that will become a new project that I will document.
13:35 - A cool casual collared shirt adorned with patterned fabric for $8.
15:13 - How do you find stuff like this? What's the "secret"?
16:18 - Outro / Credits
Other related videos:
"Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 1/2" (2 Parts, link to 1 of 2):
youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3" (3 Parts, link to 1 of 3):
youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0
"$300 Made to Measure Coat for $40!":
youtu.be/Z2qLsgoTdto
"Buying a NICE suit for under $300? / Why pay for Tailoring?":
youtu.be/DJ-Wps6QgBE
"DIY Tailoring a 3-Piece Suit at Home!":
youtu.be/ZSEtLDvQ13E
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
My Instagram: @robert_powers_
Thank you for Watching!
0:30 - "Staying in my lane" & my philosophy
1:03 - Analyzing the quality of the Statement suit
2:24 - The "before" jacket fitment
4:07 - The "before" slacks fitment
4:28 - Pinning & marking the excess slacks material
5:50 - Disassembling the slacks cuffs and opening the seam & transferring the marks to the inside fabric
8:13 - Restitching along the new marks
9:42 - Taking a first look at my work on the slacks
10:27 - Taking in the other leg
12:10 - Moving the rear crease and ironing flat the new seam
12:59 - Sewing the cuffs back up
14:02 - Pinning the side of the jacket
14:40 - Marking the side panel to take in
15:28 - Opening up the bottom and side of the jacket & transferring the marks to the inside material
16:11 - Closing the shell side panel along the new marks, removing the excess material, and closing up the lining
17:12 - Shortening the bottom of the jacket
19:57 - Trying on the jacket with one side taken in and shortened
20:31 - Showing some of the details of the construction of the side panels and lining attachment
21:06 - Closing up the new bottom hems
21:34 - Taking apart the side seam of the other side
22:27 - Pinning the second side vent alteration
23:39: Major mistake #2
24:13 - Reattaching the lining and closing up the side vent
26:30 - Finishing closing the shortened jacket bottom seam
29:14 - The final result! The good, bad, and the ugly...
31:56 - Outro & closing shots
Here are Louis's referenced Videos:
"DIY Suit Coat Sliming Tutorial | No More Boxy Suit"
youtu.be/e0dWPIq8s7s
"Taking In The Crotch Seam | Slimming Your Pants"
youtu.be/sQoWwhAPeUI
See The Gentleman's Gazette" for a pleathora of good suit/jacket videos:
youtube.com/user/thegentlemansgazette
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library & Free Music Public Domain:
1. "Pondering Madly" by The Lemming Sheppards
2. "Be A King (M.W.D. Remix)" by Metaharmoniks
3. "Brahma (Artner Remix) by Metaharmoniks
4. "Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov
5. "75 Lower" by DJ Williams
"DIY Suit Coat Sliming Tutorial | No More Boxy Suit"
youtu.be/e0dWPIq8s7s
Here's a link to his channel home page:
youtube.com/channel/UCqVoIDHg6fTmL2O_Sa09wOw
0:35 - The "before" of the jacket & pinning the excess
4:32 - Showing the side seam that I am doing the adjustment on and marking it with tailor's chalk.
6:18 - Showing the jacket details and opening up the bottom lining seam to turn it inside out
8:40 - Showing the half canvass construction
10:06 - The seam marked on the inside
10:29 - First (unsuccessful) attempt at sewing up the seam
12:14 - Mentally regrouping after my first error
14:06 - Re-pinning & marking the jacket more carefully
15:23 - Measuring the marks
16:08 - Transferring the marks to the inside of the jacket
16:53 - Second attempt (and second mistake) at sewing the seam
18:37 - Putting in a new Bobbin & resetting the machine
19:05 - The result of the first seam being sewn!
19:29 - Showing the result of the first seam adjustment with the jacket on
20:04 - Measuring (&sewing) the other side)
21:14 - Trying it on with both seams sewn
21:41 - Removing the stitching from the original seam & ironing the area flat again
22:55 - Trying the ironed jacket on before sewing the liner back on
23:29 - Reattaching the lining
24:20 - The final results and an examination of the result, both good and bad
27:15 - Before & After and more thoughts on how to do better next time
27:37 - Bloopers reel
27:50 - Outro
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Tropical House" by Yuri Bespalov
2. "Bluesed and Abused" by Quincas Moreira
1:00 Before on the Cole Haan belt
2:53 The Patina on the shoes I'm trying to match
3:35 Stripping the belt with acetone (I purchased it at a thrift store for $4)
6:39 What is a Patina? What is a Reverse Patina?
8:08 A little bit too little is better than a little bit too much (2 examples)
8:37 Starting the dying process
14:46 Shoe Giveaway contents
19:19 Additional dye work with diluted navy dye
20:25 Applying Pure Polish Products neutral cream polish
22:00 Brushing off the belt with a horsehair brush
22:43 The belt in sunlight... I'm not happy...
24:44 Some additional touch-up work with Acetone & Saphir polish to create a more gradual and more distinct transition
27:21 The finished result!
28:36 Outro
Here's a LIST of the SHOE PACKAGE GIVEAWAY contents:
1 pair of black USA made Johnston & Murphy "Melton" cap toe Oxfords, US size 10.5D (UK 9.5)
1 pair of well fitting spring-loaded Rochester shoe trees
1 black Coach men's belt, size 34" (85cm)
1 Kiwi shoe shine kit with brown & black polish, horsehair brush, 2 daubers, & a cotton shine cloth
1 extra Kiwi shoe shine brush
2 extra polish daubers
2 extra pairs of Kiwi brown dress shoelaces
To ENTER yourself or someone else into the giveaway:
A. Put in the comments BEFORE Friday March 18th 2022, the name of someone deserving of the package & why they should get it.
B. Remember, I can only ship to the continental USA only
C. One entry per viewer please.
D. 10 days after the release of this video on Friday March 18th 2022, I will announce the name of the drawing winner!
**UPDATE** Here's a link to the Giveaway unboxing video:
youtu.be/7DRL3CjCpUE
Additional related videos:
1. Corrected Grain vs Full Grain Leather is explained well here:
"High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!"
youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM
2. The differences in leather quality is also explained pretty well here, but beware, this is one of my older videos & the production quality is not as professional as my more recent videos.
"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
3. The video showing the Canadian Florsheim Imperials patina:
"Before & After: Florsheim Imperial Custom Patina"
youtu.be/S6rqrEP7Ysk
4. "Leather Talk Interview with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
His products are available at www.PurePolishProducts.com
5. This video is a VERY in-depth talk with Phil Kalas, co-owner of Ashland Leather Co & is all about leather & it's production, etc.
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1"
youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
You can get the Saphir products at www.KirbyAllison.com or www.TheElegantOxford.com
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Tiptoe Out The Back" by Dan Liebowitz
2. "The Bywater" by The Mini Vandals
3. "Mirror Mirror" by Diamond Ortiz
4. "Saint Gary" by John Deeley and the 41 Players
5. "Beach Disco" by Dougie Wood
Thank you for watching! I try to release at least a couple videos every month, but sometimes it's more or less often depending on if I have a project and the time to produce a video.
Web version: www.instagram.com/patinaworksarizona
Go to my Instagram @robert_powers_ to see the shoes with the Navy laces.
0:43 - Canadian John McHale Florsheim information
3:15 - Differences between the John McHale Florsheims & US models
4:24 - Dating & inspecting the shoe's quality
7:10 - Unboxing the re-dyed shoes
10:01 - Re-finishing the sole edges
12:20 - Re-coloring the sole edges
13:43 - Brushing the heel/sole edges
14:24 - Shining the heel/sole edges
15:45 - Shining & conditioning the uppers with Pure Polish neutral cream polish
16:08 - Additional Mirror shine with Pure Polish High Shine wax
16:59 - The finished shoes
19:45 - The shoes shown with a couple outfits
21:07 - Some examples of Alberto's work
21:31 - Bloopers & outro
Related videos:
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB ReSoling at Home 1/3"
youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0
My "Patina/Dye/Color Change" video Playlist
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLxhRT7sIvvB6UhiBtthTZ4i2YfHWhVPdl
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Brahma (Artner Remix)" by Metaharmoniks (Be A King)
2. "Church of 8 Wheels" by Otis McDonald
The Pure Polish products I use are available at www.PurePolishProducts.com.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
Photos from Alberto Suastez's Instagram @PatinaWorksArizona were used with his permission
0:44 - A brief tour of Blonde Lobster Embroidery's equipment & capabilities
3:05 - Explanation of the work to be done on my jacket label
6:22 - Showing the 12-color industrial CNC embroidery machine
7:48 - Showing the above machine actually in use
8:55 - My patch in process
9:16 - Unveiling the finished result with the new label
9:53 - Showing how the new stitching went through into the pocket
10:20 - Showing the jacket with 7 different slacks and why they either pair well or do not pair well 11:52 - The jacket with 5 different complete ensembles
12:23 - How to spot some features of a high quality suit or jacket
18:45 - showing the jacket on me with paired with several different outfits
210:15 - Outro & credits
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library: "Brahma (Artner Remix)" by Metaharmonix (Be A King)
Some relevant expert videos (not mine):
"$100 Suit vs $1000 Suit - Differences Between Cheap & Expensive Suits - Gentleman's Gazette"
youtu.be/zcsFP83eu3Y
"Difference Between Cheap $500 Custom Suit & $5,000 Tailor-Made Bespoke Suit"
youtu.be/Rz8bbLROirA
"How To Spot A Cheap Suit - Gentleman's Gazette"
youtu.be/mCn-umV3s0c
"Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits"
youtu.be/z3abMoo0gQc
0:50 - The difference between a $30 and a $130 Allen Edmonds belt
1:36 - Animation: Full Grain Aniline vs Corrected Grain vs Genuine Leather
3:44 - Removing scuffs by with Cream Polish
5:38 - Corrected Grain failure shown
6:50 Jos A Bank full grain leather belt shown
7:10 Taking a burgundy Polo Ralph Lauren belt and re-dying it black
9:12 - Conditioning the dyed belt with Pure Polish Products Cleaner Conditioner
10:59 - Showing the polished & shined walnut Allen Edmonds belt
11:20 - Polishing a full grain Johnston & Murphy belt
11:50 - Showing a high quality vs a low quality buckle
12:20 - Polishing out scuffs on a Ticknor's Full Grain Aniline belt - what is Kipskin?
14:07 - showing the shined J&M belt
14:44 - Polishing the belt with Pure Polish black wax after the Cleaner Conditioner has set for 1 hour
16:18 - The finished result
16:35 - Showing the finished belt with a suit & shoes
Related Videos:
1. "High vs Low Quality Belts & How to get 'em cheap!"
youtu.be/AIPtVrHAqfM
2. "Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"
* Beware, this video is an earlier video with poorer production quality
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
3. "Leather Belt Moisturize & Polish: Saphir, Tanners Blend, & Kiwi"
youtu.be/k6GDssl8uBI
Link to Part 1 of 2:
youtu.be/HERHyUC4Y9c
0:43 Recap of his greatest business challenge
3:03 David Ambrico collaboration & stratching his boundaries
5:50 Find a need & try to fill it!
7:06 Watch modding & attention to details
9:08 Start with the basics if you're just geting started
10:15 My weddinng experience rant / why I run my channel
12:09 Dressing nice even when you're in sneakers
13:37 A well-fitting thrift item is better than an ill-fitting $8k suit
14:58 How he learned about & aquired his first Oxxford (brand) suit
19:04 You can spot quality from 15 feet away once you develop an eye / how he learned about this before the internet
21:37 How he first got into Allen Edmonds shoes
25:15 The public doesnt care about AE / Quality for quality, not for the logo
25:59 Ealdwine Gentemen's Shop & Alden shoes
28:00 Warp speed learning though internet social media Sartorial groups
28:36 Be patientlyimpatient / what advice Russel would give himself 30 years ago
32:22 I got it wrong & had to redo my work... it's OK to make mistakes!
33:30 1 little decision can make a big diffreence to others
34:00 Work with what you have
36:43 Closing comments/outro
The "Topy mistake" video Russell referred to:
"Putting Rubber Half Soles on my new Allen Edmonds":
youtu.be/CYD1led2fOc
Ealdwine Gentlemen's Shop's website:
www.ealdwineraleigh.com
Russell's Instagram: @sartorialchauffer
0:45 Introduction to Russell "The Sartorial Chauffer"
2:55 Outfit #1: Custom brown/tan AE MacGreggor with Orient Bambino watch, tan slacks, red/burgundy/brown shirt
9:54 How the love for thrifting started; dark blue windowpane suit with black AEs with windowpane fabric, Ball Engineer II watch
11:57 Bright Blue AE St John's, bright blue Orient Automatic watch, matching tie, paired with a charcoal suit
14:44 Shoes Russel owns & why Allen Edmonds is his favorite
17:40 Russell's 2 best tips for buying or getting service on AE shoes
21:40 A Pinstriped Charcoal suit with a pair of 1980's AE Chester wingtip Oxford & a black & brown/mustard tie. Can you wear black & brown together?
24:28 Navy suit with a light blue shirt, brown AE Brantley split toe Derby & a watch with a matching brown band
25:50 Why & how he started paying attention to pocket squares & watches
27:25 How his first livery (chauffer) vehicle affected how he dresses
30:39 Thrifted taupe Belvest suit with cigar (brown) AE Strands, Hamilton Khaki Swiss watch with a black dial & brown leather band, pink shirt & brown tie
33:00 Navy pinstripe suit, merlot AE Manchester wingtip tassel loafers, vintage Rado "Purple Horse" automatic watch, pinstriped blue/white shirt.
34:31 Black suit with walnut AE Strands, walnut AE Belt, watch with walnut straps, Zegna tie from eBay, turmeric colored pocket squar
The "You can't pair balck and brown" challenge
36:08 brown & white AE Spectators, matching watch with white dial & walnut straps, cream colored slacks, burgundy/brown/red shirt
37:28 Bourbon AE Park Avenues, Ball automatic watch with a bourbon Ralleye Strap & black dial, patterned blue/white shirt, tan Chinos, brown tie & light brown sport coat
369:12 Black suit with black AE Brantley Oxford boots, white shirt, black pattern tie with a Movado automatic watch with a black dial and black leather strap
40:20 Discussing the "10,000 step dress shoe" & why dress shoes can be more comfortable than sneakers
42:35 110+ year old button boots!
46:36 NOS (New Old Stock) John C. Roberts quarter brogue Oxfords from around the 1930's -1940's with a spade sole
48:18 John McHale short-wing Blucher "Bombers" with a triple oak sole from the late 1950's
49:57 Florsheim "Golden Harvest" Long Wing Bluchers restored by Steve from Bedos Leatherworks, & where the term "Gunboats" came from
53:24 NOS Allen Edmonds Macneils from 1977 with the box & the difference between the Macneil & the current "Macneil 2.0"
56:20 A pair of AE Fifth Avenues from 1990 in "antique burgundy calf" that were purchased after sitting in an Allen Edmonds store for over 20 years!
59:24 A pair of custom one-off AE Saddle Oxfords (similar to the Polo) in #8 Shell Cordovan
1:02:45 AE Hale with a custom "Copper" patina by Alberto Suastez from Patinaworks Arizona, inspired by the feldspar gem
1:05:50 AE Park Avenues in black marbled shell cordovan (which isn't really black)
1:07:27 Russell's opinion on Shell Cordovan Care & his favorite product to condition Shell Cordovan
1:09:58 MUST SEE: Why Russell started posting his OOTD (Outfit of the Day) - how he handled his biggest buisiness adversity
1:16:33 Outro & credits
CLICK HERE for "Interview with Russell the Sartorial Chauffer Pt 2/2":
"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
"Leather Talk with Andy from Pure Polish"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Shoe Showcase: NEW 35 yr old UNWORN Sears Roebuck PTB"
youtu.be/8EMCBG14O3s
Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
www.PurePolishProducts.com
I find out pretty quickly that although a new battery brings the second hand to life, the minute and hour hands were not moving. A detailed thread on the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors website showed me exactly what the problem was (linked below).
0:47 Disclaimer
1:56 Batteries: 1.55v Silver oxide 344 vs the 1.35v mercury oxide 343
2:52 Battery Replacement
4:20 Discovering the minute & hour hands don’t move
4:34 What’s wrong explained / disassembly begins
7:09 Showing the Center Wheel Assembly
7:38 Removing the Date Bridge, Date Indictor, & Date indicator Detent
8:48 Removing the Date Trip Spring, Yoke, & minute wheel
9:29 Mis-diagnosing the bad Center Wheel Assembly
10:21 Problem explained & cleaning the corrosion
11:46 Showing the bad Center Wheel Assembly
12:27 New Center Wheel Assembly w/ P/N explained
13:53 Re-oiling the Center Tube & installing the new Center Wheel Ass’y
15:36 Showing the differences between the model 218 & 219
16:36 Installing the new Setting Wheel, Minute Wheel, Yoke, & Setting Lever
21:17 Installing the Hour Wheel, Calendar Trip Arm Ass’y & Date Indicator Detent
24:34 Installing the Date Trip Spring & Date Indicator wheel
26:37 Installing the Date Bridge & Date Indicator Detent Spring
29:02 Testing & Explaining the date trip action
31:09 Watch hands alignment & installation
333:47 Cleaning the watch with Thinking Putty (similar to silly putty, a Rodico replacement)
34.19 Re-installing the Setting Stem & battery
34:35 Fabricating a new Battery Strap from a Paperclip
36:33 Bump starting the Index Wheel
37:15 Summary, showing the working watch with some matching clothes, belt & shoes & my grandfather’s working 100 year old pocket watch!
Note: I realize running a pocket watch that probably hasn’t been run or serviced in 50 years is a bad idea. I only partially wound it once, and I probably won’t run it again until it gets to be professionally serviced. The pocketwatch shown is a Waltham Model 1892 PS Bartlett grade 17 Jewel size 18 pocket watch.
National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors website article:
mb.nawcc.org/threads/bulova-accutron-repair-help.173334
There 3 videos on YouTube by My Retro Watches that showed how to take apart and reassemble a model 218, which is nearly identical to my 219:
"Bulova Accutron 218 Disassembly Tutorial":
youtu.be/JT3VVLz4z4E
"Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning Fork Watch - Assembly Part 1":
youtu.be/cxnsas9Bayw
"Bulova 218 Accutron Tuning Fork Watch Assembly Part 2":
youtu.be/gqU2iX-sQEo
This video on DIY Watch Club showed me how to re-install watch hands:
"Watch hand installation detailed guide part 1: Hour and Minute hands (movement with date)":
youtu.be/Jy-bXjloJB8
Next time I will be more careful with not leaving parts on the watch that can fall off, and being more cautious to read small text on the watch, and I'll also wear those little finger rubbers they all seem to wear.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
Part 1: "Florsheim Double Monk Straps Shine + New heels Part 1":
youtu.be/9-978znVMGQ
0:34 Intro/setup & explanation of 2.5 yr gap & “warning”
2:31 Start of shoe teardown, removing insoles, cleaning out foam
3:29 Removing the front half of the outsole
4:47 Marking the sole for the new half-sole & cutting the old one off
6:55 Showing the Florsheim cosmetic outsole & Blake stitching
7:37 Fishing out the old Blake Stitch
8:17 Showing the upper, cosmetic welt, and insole
8:58 Time Lapse of me tearing apart the other shoe
9:55 Re-gluing the uppers and false welt back on, adding a layer or cork
10:35 Repairing the cosmetic stitch on the welt
11:35 Beveling (sanding down to a taper) the old outsole
13:44 Time lapse of me beveling the old sole
15:03 Skiving the new half soles on the 5-in-one machine
16:16 Sanding down the transition on the outsole
16:39 Gluing up the shoe and new outsoles
20:47 Showing a cool lifted shoe
21:27 Putting on the new leather outsoles
23:49 Pressing on the edges of the outsoles with the 5-in-one
24:30 Trimming the outsole with the 5-in-one
25:22 Finish shaping the edges of the outsole
28:08 Brief explanation
28:35 CLOSE-UP of the Goodyear Welting outsole stitcher!
30:18 Stitching someone else’s shoe with the Goodyear Welting machine
31:13 Cutting the groove for the outsole stitches
31:35 Stitching on the Outsoles with the Blake/McKay machine
36:26 Showing the final result
39:12 Outro & credits
Special thanks to:
Neal (owner) of Oriti Shoe Repair
5299 Broadview Road
Cleveland, OH 44134
(216) 375-0519
Thank you for watching! My Instagram is @robert_powers_
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
"Be A King (M.W.D. Remix)" by Metaharmonix
I honestly almost didn't record this video, as I didn't know if the content was "video worthy". I know it's not an earth-shattering transformation, but I thought at the end that it's still fun to watch, and may help someone. As I state in the video, just be careful with Reno-mat, as I've heard from others that it sometimes will remove the color from shoes.
0:35 - Starting condition
0:56 - Warnging of using dye with a duaber vs airbrush
2:38 - Step 1: Stripping the old wax off with Saphir Renomat
5:11 Step 2: Prepping the surface for dye
5:27 - Taping off the soles with masking tape
6:01 - Airbrushing on alcohol reduced dye
6:41 - Step 3 - condittioning the leather with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
10:49 Step 4 - Brush the set up conditioner with a horse hair brush
11:26 - Step 5 - Apply Saphir Medaille D'Or #37 medium brown cream polish
12:48 - Step 6: Brushing the polish with a horse hair brush
13:51 =- Step 7: Ceaning the edges of the sole with Shoe MGK Cleaner & Conditioner & some brake cleaner
15:43 - The finished result
17:51 - Outro with music
Other related videos:
"Leather Quality explained: Aniline? Full Grain? Corrected Grain?"
youtu.be/fJ8EQ3HnDj0
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1"
youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
Music Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library:
"So Smooth" by Danny Kean - Doug Maxwell
Products used:
1. Saphir Renomat (solvet based cleaner) and Saphir Medaille D'Or cream polish available at www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.com
2. Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner www.PurePolishProducts.com
3. I got the Shoe MGK cleaner at a mall kiosk years ago, but any cleaner such as a baking soda and water paste, Fantastik tub cleaner, Simple Green cleaner etc will work.
0:38 – Before photos & Introduction
0:52 – Shine the edges of the heel & fix scuffs on the upper
1:22 – Polish/color the heel breast
2:01 – Air brush dye the top lifts
2:45 – Photo of an original V-cleat sole
2:51 – Cutting a hole for my rubber V-cleat
6:46 – Installing 50+ nails in the heel top lifts
8:31 –Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner on the uppers
10:40 – Pure Polish black Paste Wax Polish on the uppers
11:53 – Skiving the new debossed insole sock liners
12:15 – Buffing the uppers
12:59 – Pure Polish High Shine Paste Wax mirror shine
16:50 – Sock liner insole installation
17:27 – The finished result & monologue on the beauty of the LWB
Related videos:
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 2/3" (PART 2 of 3)
youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 1/3" (PART 1 of 3)
youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0
"Re-Soling a Shoe at Home #3" (my previous attempt on the AE Graysons)
youtu.be/YfYImLnzWDE
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)"
youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo
Here's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oA...
Music Credit: YouTube Free Audio Library:
1. “Be A King (M.W.D. remix)” by Metaharmoniks (Be A King)
2. “Calluses II” by William Rosati
3. “Brahma (Artner remix)” by Metaharminiks (Be A King)
4. “Hear The Noise” by John Deley and the 41 Players
Supplies used:
1. Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner, black Paste Wax Polish, & High Shine Paste Wax: www.PurePolishProducts.com
2. Saphir Medaille D'Or #3 light brown cream polish:
www.kirbyallison.com or www.theelegantoxford.com
3. 1 oz. Beeswax, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics
4. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"
5. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com
6. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) size 97mm x 98mm from eBay seller "kartus" (Note: each style and size shoe will need it's own correctly sized heel base)
7. 5mm thick rubber sheet for heels from Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis, IA. instagram.com/landwerlenleather Note: this rubber is a little on the soft side. It has great traction, and is easy to work with, and is ideal to match the thickness of the original Allen Edmonds top lifts, but it wears quicker than the factory "victory" heel top lift material.
0:42 – Installing the midsole
1:43 – Installing the outsole
4:33 – Rough Sanding the outsole & welt to shape
5:15 – My 1st big problem… the outsole width
6:11 – Trimming the welt & outsole flashing
6:41 – Pre-punching holes in the welt
7:37 – Cutting the groove in the outsole
10:10 – Staining the outsoles with the airbrush
11:51 – Applying the classic Florsheim “wood grain” finish
13:20 – The tool for punching holes in the welt and sole
15:19 – 2nd major problem – alcohol made the dye run
15:35 – Back to punching holes
16:00 – Close-up of the welt & sole holes
16:49 – Punching 5 holes in the arch of the sole
17:06 – Stitching on the outsoles
22:20 – Sealing the thread ends with a lighter
23:22 – Close-up of the welt side stitching
23:50 – Shaping the new stacked leather heel blocks & heel balancing
26:07 – Gluing on the heels
27:30 – Nailing on the heel assembly
30:30 – Shaping heels & outsoles on the belt sander
33:04 – Hand sanding the heel & soles
34:19 – Color polishing the heel & sole edges
35:10 – Brushing the heel to a shine!
35:48 – The result I wanted! & the “Secret” to edge finishing
36:46 - Outro
Other relevant videos:
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 1/3" (PART 1 of 3)
youtu.be/eTl7lJz7bY0
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 3/3" (PART 3 of 3)
youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKw
"Re-Soling a Shoe at Home #3" (my previous attempt on a pair of Allen Edmonds Grayson loafers):
youtu.be/YfYImLnzWDE
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)":
youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo
Here's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oApLfVgM&list=PLxhRT7sIvvB5RTPDrnE7RZcGvsOkYx-PL
Music Credits: YouTube Free Audio Library:
1. “Tiptoe Out the Back” by Dan Liebowitz
2. “Costa Rica” by Slynk
3. “Beautiful World” by Drew Banga
4. “Nice to You” by Vibe Tracks
5. “Six Feet Off the Ground” by Nana Kwabena
6. “American Idle” by RKVC
Supplies:
1. Storm Welt Natural, Landis bobbin (thread), small awl, leather heel blocks, leather heel top lifts, new leather mid-soles, etc) from Panhandle Leather Company, Amarillo, TX, USA: www.panhandleleather.com
2. 1 oz. Beeswx, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics
3. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"
4. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com
5. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) size 97mm x 98mm from eBay seller "kartus" (Note: each style and size shoe will need it's own correctly sized heel base)
0:46 - Intro, dating the shoes, and "before" condition
5:54 - New welting shown
6:17 - Start of teardown: removing the heels
10:34 - Removing the nails for the heels from the insoles
12:29 - Removing the midsole outsole
15:42 - Removing the shank
16:10 - Removing the old cork bed
18:36 - Removing the old welt
21:35 - Installing the new leather storm welt
28:05 - Re-installing the welt with the speedy stitcher
33:31 - Flattening the insole with alcohol & water mix
33:35 - Making a pattern for the cork & fitting the cork beds (2 layers)
36:16 - New restoration parts from Bedo's Leatherworks!!
38:44 - Outro with "before" pics
Other relevant videos:
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 2/3" (PART 2 of 3)
youtu.be/RC2i-knabLs
"Florsheim Royal Imperial LWB Re-Soling at Home 3/3" (PART 3 of 3)
youtu.be/6Td2yaMBnKw
"Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Shoes":
youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g
"How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)"
youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo
Here's a link to my Playlist of all my "Before & After" videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=WB5oApLfVgM&list=PLxhRT7sIvvB5RTPDrnE7RZcGvsOkYx-PL
Music courtesy of YouTube Audio Library:
1. "221B Baker Street" by Hanu Dixit
2. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
3. "7th Floor Tango" by Silent Partner
Supplies (Storm Welt Natural, Landis bobbin (thread), small awl, leather heel blocks, leather heel top lifts, new leather mid-soles, etc) from Panhandle Leather Company, Amarillo, TX, USA: www.panhandleleather.com
1. 1 oz. Beeswax, Speedy Stitcher, & BTH25 white and black Real Leather brand thread were purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics
2. Saphir Medaille D'Or #03 light brown cream polish:
www.theelegantoxford.com or www.kirbyallison.com
3. "Florsheim Royal Imperial" gold debossed insoles and stamped outsoles from Bedos Leatherworks in Falls Church, Virginia, USA: www.leatherrepair.com, see his YouTube channel "Bedo's Leatherworks LLC"
4. Small awl, leather midsoies, leather top lifts, and storm welt natural leather from Panhandle Leather Co, www.panhandleleather.com
5. "Stacked Heels Veg Tan Cowhide Tooling Leather Shoes Cowboy Boots Replacement" (Leather heel bases) from eBay seller "kartus"
0:38 - Intro, Explanation, & Allen Edmonds date code info
3:26 - Beginning of disssasembly
4:46 - A brief explanation of Goodyear Welting & showing the Gemming
5:53 - Gluing on the new cork beds
8:35 - Gluing on the outsole
10:44 - Rough trimming the outsole
11:06 - Sanding the outsoles to shape
12:10 - Cutting the groove for the outsole stitches
13:49 - Stitching the outsoles on by hand
18:03 - Building a tool to punch holes
19:10 - Trying out my new tool
22:02 - Stitching & my "Experience" speech
28:45 - Making mistakes
30:50 - Re-attaching the heel blocks
32:15 - Attaching & trimming the heel top lifts
35:53 - Finishing the edges of the heels and soles
37:27 - Decorative nails in the top lifts
40:18 - Staining the edges of the heels & soles with Simple Shine Edge Dressing
41:02 - Staining the bottom of the soles and heels with Fiebings Tan leather dye
41:34 - Cleaning the uppers with Saphir Renomat
42:49 - Polishing & nourishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D'Or black cream polish
44:27 - Polishing the edges of the heels and soles with Saphir Medaille D'Or black Mirror Gloss paste wax polish
45:27 - The finished result & critiquing my work
48:44 - Outro and credits
Related or relavant videos:
1. "Re-Soling at Home FAIL... Cobblers are Pros for a Reason!"
youtu.be/on_GbQr65uo
2. "DIY: Re-Soling Johnston & Murphy Loafers AT HOME (#2)"
youtu.be/on_GbQr65uo
3. "Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes"
youtu.be/fpEpqJ0eO0g
4. "How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)"
youtu.be/ODsApyQ5BNo
5. "How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes"
youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
Here's a link to my Video list:
youtube.com/user/Robertpowers1972/videos
Panhandle Leather Co (leather heel top lifts, soles, thread, awls, etc)
www.PanhandleLeather.com
Landwerlen Leather Co (source of the rubber sheet for the heels):
365 S Illinois St, Indianapolis, IN 46225
317-636-8300
*Edited 12/2021:* - Here is a list of tools used:
1. Speedy Stitcher (JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, EBay) about $20
2. Extra Speedy Stitcher Relacement needles (Part # BN-135) from Hobby Lobby are about $5 a pack. I wind up using the straight needles in my latest videos.
3. I got a leather working kit from eBay that had the dark red handled knife with the straight 90° blade, the edge de-burring tool, the grooving cutter, the files, a wooden leather burnishing tool, hole punches (not shown or used here) and a couple other tools for around $40!
4. I got a pack of 3 awls with the orange handles from either Hobby Lobby or JoAnns for a few bucks. The large wooden handle awl I purchased used from eBay. The small wooden handle awl was from www.panhandleleather.com.
5. The leather soles, Top Lifts, & cork can be purchased from eBay from seller @Nordshoe or www.panhandleleather.com.
6. Masters All Purpose Cement by Petronio is available on eBay or www.panhandleleather.com. Watch out, there are tiny 4 oz cans, 8oz, and big quart cans. All have a brush. Don’t get the 4 oz, it’s too small. The big quart can is best if you're going to do a lot of jobs, but KEEP IT COVERED as MUCH as possible or it WILL dry out before you can use all of it.
7. Belt sander belt, start with 36 grit, finish with 120 grit paper.
8. The thread I used is from Hobby Lobby, RealLeather P/N BH25 (they sell black and white) but I probably wouldn’t use this. Go to www.realleather.com and get their “Landis Bobbins” for $1.35 ea. Get a few. They are 23 yards (69 feet, or 21 meters) per spool. One spool should be enough for one pair of shoes, but you'll mess up and they're cheap, so get 3 or 4 of them. Get black threads for shoes with a black or dark brown welt so the threads are hidden on the dark welt. Get either white or black for tan/natural colored welts.
9. 1oz block of beeswax, $4, purchased from Hobby Lobby.
10. I used tin snips I've had in the garage. They are actually designed for cutting thin sheet metal and are probably available through Sears Craftsman or the like. The red handled ones are right handed, the green handled ones are left handed. The difference is in which side the cutting jaw is on.
11. I created the welt and sole punching tool from a pair of channel locks and an alen wrench.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Epic Dramatic" by Yuri Bespalov from FreeMusicPublicDomain
2. "Calluses_II" by William Rosati
3. "Tracks of My Fears" by John Deley and the 41 Players
4. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
5. "Where to Walk by Aaron Lieberman
6. "Two of Us" by Saidbysed
7. "Sangria" by Saidbysed
8. "Eyeliner" by Underbelly
9. "So Bueno" by The 126ers
My instagram is robert_powers_
This video is dedicated to the memory of our wonderful dog Rylee (see outro for photos). Rylee was an approximately 8 or 9 year old Vizsla that we rescued about 3.5 years ago. She was beaten by her previous owner, and her demeanor improved 200% with us. She was pampered! Unfortunately, earlier this month she went into heart failure from what they think was a tumor on her heart. Her loss was painful, but we feel blessed to have had her love for the time that we did.
Music Credit:
"The Basement Strut" by The Whole Other (funky R&B) from YouTube Free Audio.
Here are some links to some related videos:
"$395 Allen Edmonds vs $179 J&M... What's the difference?
youtu.be/aMboJxOL2mw
Learn all about Pure Polish Products and how to care for leather:
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching!"
youtu.be/-oRWEzvoVe8
"Brogues explained! J&M Aristocraft vs Optima Full Grain Test"
youtu.be/pkbAdSJoq_o
This video documents a mission I was on to purchase a nice suit for less than $300. By "nice" I mean the outer made from high quallity 100% wool, half canvas constructoin, and the lining made from natural materials.
I apologize in advance for parts of the video and audio being poor quality.
Special thanks to Cindy at Savile Lane:
117 Ghent Road
Fairlawn, OH 44333
cchen@savilelane.com
(330) 864-8642
3:19 - the damage & comparison of different weave construction methods
6:22 - reassembling the torn weave
9:39 - gluing the torn ends
18:54 - polishing the uppers
22:20 - cleaning & polishing the soles & heels
24:52 - mirror shining the toe caps
27:05 - re-coloring the edges of the soles & heels
28:15 - polishing the edges of the heels and soles
29:36 - the final result
30:48 - Justin, the winner unboxing the shoes
31:46 - Closing shots, outro, & credits
Other related videos:
"Repairing TORN Mezlan Woven Leather Oxfords"
youtu.be/7RSz6mKK_ME
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1."American Idle" buy RKVC
2. "Buckeye Bonzai" by Vans in Japan
3. "Rooster" by Delicate Steve
4. "Pondering Madly" by The Lemming Shephers (Symphony for the Census)
5. "Fortunate Son" by Silent Partner
6. "Stuff" by Otis McDonand
Products used in this video:
Saphir #37 medium brown Medaille D'Or cream polish (uppers)
Saphir #03 light brown Medaille D'Or cream polish (soles)
Pure Polish Products High Shine Wax www.purepolishproducts.com
Pure Polish Products Premium Polishing Cloth
Shoe MGK Cleaner Conditioner (to clean the soles and heels)
Simple Shine Leather + Suede Dye (edge dressing) www.simpleshine.com
Kiwi Parade Gloss black shoe polish (heels)
Special thanks to Greg Gilchrist of the Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts Facebook group for the generous donation of the olive Allen Edmonds Strand Weave Cap-Toe Oxfords!
4:15 - Skip Co history go to the shoes
8:08 - Start of cleanup
18:44 - Tassel repair
21:49 - Shell Cordovan Mirror Shine technique. I admit, it didn't add a tremendous amount of shine to these particular shoes in this one case.
25:38 - Final result
Shell Cordovan is a highly sought after leather derived from a membrane on the hind quarters of a horse. For more information on Shell Cordovan, see the following videos:
1. "How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather": youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y
2. "Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?": youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE
3. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1": youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
4. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 2": youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY
5. "Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 3": youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1."See You On The Other Side" by the 126ers
2. "Stoner Things" by Patiño
0:38 - Backstory & dating Allen Edmonds shoes based on the logo
4:33 - Start of cleanup with Saphir Renomat
7:08 - Conditioning/moisturizing with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
10:00 - Polishing the uppers with Saphir Medaille D’Or Bordeaux cream polish
12:29 - Mirror shining the toe caps with Pure Polish neutral High Shine Paste / Wax Polish
19:20 - Adding on rubber protective half soles from 1.2mm rubber soling sheet (Amazon)
27:57 - Shining the soles with Saphir Medaille D’Or light brown cream polish
28:28 - Polishing the edges of the heels and soles with black Kiwi Parade Gloss wax polish
29:33 - The final result
31:57 - Outro & credits
The rubber soling material I used is "SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm Black" from Amazon.
Other related videos:
“"How to Date Allen Edmonds Shoes”: youtu.be/Lcx0eq-S-eY
“Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 1": youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
“Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Part 2": youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
Special thanks to Jim Pietryka of Ealdwine Gentleman's Shop in Raliegh, NC & the "Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts" Facebook group for the additional information on the 1992 logo change.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library Genre: Rock, Mood: bright, inspirational, dramatic, & happy:
1. "See You On The Otherside" by The 126ers
2. "American Idle" by RKVC
3. "Buckeye Bonzai" by Vans in Japan
4. "Rooster" by Delicate Steve
5. "Sonic Pogo" by Vans in Japan
6. "Stoner Things" by Patiño
1:04 Showing what the Strands need
1:47 What the Macneils need (new heel taps)
1:57 What the McAllisters need - new rubber top lifts
2:21 Showing the half soles of the Park Avenues
3:17 The materials for the rubber protective half soles compared
4:27 Cleaning the heels and soles with Saddle Soap
6:27 Replacing the heel taps on the Strands & Mcneils
11:05 Replacing the rubber protective half soles on the Macneils
15:12 Trimming off the outside of the half soles
17:21 Removing & replacing the rubber portion of my custom half leather -rubber combo heels I created a year ago
22:49 Shining the McAllisters & fixing cracked mirror shine with a lighter
28:14 Shining the walnut Strands with water resistant Pure Polish
30:48 Replacing the rubber half soles on the black Park Avenues
34:00 Minor sanding and re-staining of the sole edges with Simple Shine edge dressing
34:29 The finished result for all 4 shoes
38:15 Outro with photos & credits
Related videos:
"Saddle Soap: Why? What's in it?" youtu.be/_4DH7-VTixE
"New Half-Soles & Heels on my Allen Edmonds McAllisters" youtu.be/0WWNmlizVtM
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1" youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
The EXPLANATION of the Pure Polish water resistant polish is at 30:05, the actual test on my Strands is at 35:18
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2" youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
"How to Tie Dress Shoes | Berluti Knot Method" youtu.be/kXHemBywew4
Supplies I used
- Kiwi Saddle Soap is available at most local stores like CVS Pharmacy, Walmart, etc, but any brand will do
- The "Kaniji" softer sheet rubber I used in this video:
"KANEIJI Shoe Repair Rubber Soling Sheet, 57 * 38cm, Different Colors and Thickness can Choose, 1 Sheet (Black, 2mm Thickness)"
Amazon, ASIN #B07RDZD7GS ($19.98 for the 22.4" x 15" sheet)
- Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio - available on eBay from seller "Nordshoe" ($38/quart)
- The thinner harder durometer unbranded rubber sheet is SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm, sold by: Van Rees Trading Company from Amazon
- The rubber sheet I got from Steve at Bedos Leatherworks is about 2 or 2.5mm thick, the logo says "CHIC"
- The heel taps I used are GUARD Quality Heel & Toe Plates Polyeurethane (Plastic) Taps Savers" from eBay seller Nordshoe. I paid $8 for 5 pairs. The ones in this video are the large size #6.
- See www.PurePolishProducts.com for the neutral High Shine wax, Burgundy cream polish, light brown water resistant cream polish, and mirror shining cotton cloth
- I got the 10 iron (approx. 5mm thick) heeling rubber sheet and heeling leather from which the heel top lifts on the McAllisters were created from
Landwerlen Leather (an “iron” is a unit of measuring leather thickness. One iron = 1/48 inch):
Landwerlen Leather Co https://landwerlen-leather-co.business.site/
365 Illinois St.
Indianapolis, IN 46225
(317) 636-8300
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library
1. "Sangria" by Saidbysed
2. "See You Soon" by Otis McDonald
3. "Two Of Us" by Saidbysed
4. "Where to Walk" by Aaron Lieberman
5. "You're Not That Funky" by Otis McDonald
6. "Eyeliner" by Underbelly
7. "Family Montage" by Biz Baz Studio
8. "Hero's Ascent" by Chris Haugen
9. "I'm Happy for this Guitar" by Freedom Trail Studio
10."So Bueno" by The 126ers
Instagram: @robert_powers_
0:32 - Why rubber protective half soles? (aka Topy)
4:53 - Laying out the sole template
9:05 - Alignging the template to the shoe
12:17 - Comparing the Kaneji rubber sheet to the SoleTech Sole-Guard and re-cutting the sheet
15:05 - Skiving/cutting the leather sole to make the rubber sole flush
23:30 - Sandind down the leather soles for the glue
24:08 - Applying the Rubber Cement to the soles and sheet
27:57 - Sticking the rubber soles to the shoes
29:53 - Trimming the half soles to match the shoe
33:05 - Cleaning up the edges of the soles and polishing them
34:33 - They're done, but not symetric... decide to redo one
36:39 - The finished product
37:35 - Blooper
37:39 - Outro consisting of artistically pleasing shots of the shoes and me in the shoes, and with my dog.
Music Credit - YouTube Audio Library
1. 75 & Lower by DJ Williams
2. A New Orleans Crafish Boil by Unicorn Heads
3. Awakening by Silent Partner
4. James River by DJ Williams
5. Mia by Jeremy Blake
Supplies:
Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio - available on eBay from seller "Nordshoe"
SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling
Sheet, 1.2mm, sold by: Van Rees Trading Company
from Amazon
0:50 : Intro/story of how I found them
03:30 : I'm an 11.5 EEE, can I wear a size 13B?
08:29 : Showing the Bradley split toes
10:25 : What is a Derby vs an Oxford?
12:04 : Charleston chisel point toe shown
14:44 : Showing the Clifton cap toe Derbies and Allen Edmonds "Factory Seconds" (F2) explained.
17:23 : Cleaning up & conditioning the Bradley split toes with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
24:04 : Cleaning up & conditioning the walnut Charlestons with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
25:23 : Cleaning & conditioning the Leyland loafers with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
26:20 : Cleaning & conditioning the black Cliftons with Pure Polish Cleaner Conditioner
27:30 : Polishing the Leyland loafers with Pure Polish water resistant polish
31:23 : Polishing the walnut Charlsetons with Saphir Medaille D'Or #3 light brown cream polish
32:12 : Polishing the split toe Bradleys with Saphir Medaille D'Or #9 mahogany cream polish
33:58 : Polishing the Clifton cap toes with Saphir Medaille D'Or #1 Black
35:05 : Brushing off all four pairs
36:57 : FULL MIRROR SHINE TUTORIAL on the Cliftons. The entire Mirror shine process is shown (none of it was edited out).
56:23 : Quick mirror shine on the tips of the toes of the Leyland loafers
59:15 : Polishing the walnut Chalestons with Pure Polish neutral cream poish
59:52 : Polishing the split toe Bradleys with Pure Polish neutral cream polish and polishing out a scratch on the heel
1:01:25 : Touching up the toes on the walnut Chalestons with Saphir Mirror Gloss
1:01:59 : The final resluts in HD!
1:03:52 : Bloopers Reel
1:04:19 : Closing photos & credits
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt1"
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt2"
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "3rd Eye Blimp" by Otis McDonald
2. "75 & Lower" by DJ Williams
3. "A New Orleans Crawfish Boil" by Unicorn Heads
4. "Aces High - Funkorama" by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. httpscreativecommons.orglicensesby4.0
Source httpincompetech.commusicroyalty-freeindex.htmlisrc=USUAN1100763
Artist httpincompetech.com
5. "James River" by DJ Williams
6. "Mia" by Jeremy Blake
7. "Urchins" by Rondo Brothers
1:30 : The origins of Ferragamo & who Salvatore Ferragamo the founder was
5:10 : A “Before” of the shoes & which line are they (Tramezza vs Lavorazione Originale)
8:18 : What is Blake Rapid vs Goodyear Welted vs regular Blake Stitched?
14:00 : Shoes uppers and soles current condition
14:55 : Start of the Cleanup
17:48 : Clean and condition the uppers
23:00 : Removing the permanent ink text from the soles
29:30 : Polishing the uppers with black cream polish
31:10 : Mirror Shine (aka “Spit Shine”)
38:30 : The final result
Here is the clip of Kevin Heart falling and his failed Ferragamo shoes. In the video you can clearly see that the soles are glued on one piece rubber soles and heels, with no welting or nailing holding the soles and heels on, only adhesive.Warning, there are a few F-bombs in Kevin’s video.
youtu.be/A4Am81zjEQc
For Pure Polish Products go to www.PurePolishProducts.com.
For Saphir products go to www.TheHangerProject.com or www.TheElagantOxford.com.
Music Credit: YouTube Audio Library:
1. "Discofunque" by Francis Preve
2. "Elite Syncopations" by E's Jammy Jams
3. "Fond Memories" by SYBS
4. "Stuff" by Otis McDonald
High Shine Paste / Wax Polish from: www.PurePolishProducts.com
Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing (Amazon, eBay, etc)
Some relavant videos:
"Mirror Shining Vintage Shell Cordovan Bluchers" by Andy Vaughn of Pure Polish:
youtu.be/Ihb1biHc-jk
"Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?":
youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE
"How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather"
youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1":
youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Part 2":
youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Ashland/Horween Part 3":
youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
Music Credit:
"Rediscover" (original instrumental) by Aq Xico, used with Permission
YouTube Audio Library:
"Jumpin' Boogie Woogie" by Audionautix
"Hello Mr Princeton" by Otis McDonald
"Fond Memories" by SYBS
High Shine Paste / Wax Polish from: www.PurePolishProducts.com
Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing (Amazon, eBay, etc)
Some relavant videos:
"How to Identify Shell Cordovan Leather"
youtu.be/BdAmHOG5V4Y
"Mirror Shining Vintage Shell Cordovan Bluchers" by Andy Vaughn of Pure Polish:
youtu.be/Ihb1biHc-jk
"Horween Leather! Why is Good Leather More Expensive?":
youtu.be/W5nh7kAfOlE
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Leather - Part 1":
youtu.be/lm2NcSuxIoY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Horween/Ashland Part 2":
youtu.be/LfkzAbiBhaY
"Leather Talk with Phil from Ashland/Horween Part 3":
youtu.be/E3wW_IjJ9Ks
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 1":
youtu.be/h0DH-AHwKcY
"Leather Talk with Andy Vaughn from Pure Polish Pt 2":
youtu.be/zmAiQnikdio
Music Credit:
"Rediscover" (original instrumental) by Aq Xico, used with Permission
YouTube Audio Library:
"Jumpin' Boogie Woogie" by Audionautix
"Hello Mr Princeton" by Otis McDonald
"Fond Memories" by SYBS


