Uploaded February 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
If your Chainsaw won’t start? or if your Chainsaw starts then dies! Or even if your Chainsaw runs rough or bogs, or your beloved Chainsaw only runs on choke, then this video will help you.
So in a nutshell, If your chainsaw won’t start, won’t idle, bogs down, loses power, or only runs on choke, this video will save you time, money, and frustration.
Whether it be a Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, Partner, or most other petrol brands, then this video is for DIY repairers and professionals alike.
This is no-nonsense, real repair information based on what actually fails — not guesswork.
If this video helps you, consider subscribing for proper small engine repair advice that actually fixes the problem.
I explain why carburetors fail, how to spot each fault, and what the correct fix actually is
Stale / old fuel
Why old fuel causes hard starting and poor running.
Blocked fuel ways and jets
How tiny fuel passages clog, why ethanol makes this worse, and how to clean them properly (not just spraying carb cleaner and hoping).
Ethanol fuel damage explained
How ethanol attracts water, causes corrosion, blocks jets, hardens rubber parts, and slowly kills carburetors — even when the saw isn’t used.
Hardened or damaged diaphragms
Why ethanol causes diaphragms to stiffen, crack, or shrink — and why this leads to no fuel delivery or erratic running. Correct replacement shown.
Worn or damaged metering needle and seat
How wear here causes flooding, fuel starvation, or inconsistent fueling — and how to inspect and fix it properly.
Incorrect metering lever height
Why a lever set too high or too low completely throws fueling off — and how to set it correctly.
Air leaks at the intake / carb manifold
How air leaks cause lean running, racing idle, and cutting out — and how to test and seal them correctly.
Primer / purge bulb faults
Why damaged or leaking primer bulbs stop fuel flow — and when replacement is the only real fix.
Fuel line degradation
How ethanol breaks fuel lines down from the inside, causing blockages, air leaks, and debris in the carb — and how to replace them correctly.
Blocked Welch (core) plugs
Why fuel can clog under Welch plugs where you can’t see it — and how this causes mysterious running faults.
Blocked fuel tank vent
How a blocked vent creates vacuum in the tank, starving the carb of fuel — and how to diagnose it fast.
Internal corrosion inside the carburetor
What ethanol corrosion looks like inside fuel passages, why it’s often missed, and when a carb body is beyond saving.
Fuel adjuster screws set incorrectly
What happens when screws are too far in (lean) or too far out (rich), and why a good baseline is:
Gently seated, then one full turn out on each screw
Aftermarket / cheap carburetors explained
Why some aftermarket carbs fail straight out of the box — poor tolerances, defective diaphragms, weak needles, and inferior build quality — and when they’re not worth fitting.
Have a great day
Craig
If your Chainsaw won’t start? or if your Chainsaw starts then dies! Or even if your Chainsaw runs rough or bogs, or your beloved Chainsaw only runs on choke, then this video will help you.
So in a nutshell, If your chainsaw won’t start, won’t idle, bogs down, loses power, or only runs on choke, this video will save you time, money, and frustration.
Whether it be a Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, Partner, or most other petrol brands, then this video is for DIY repairers and professionals alike.
This is no-nonsense, real repair information based on what actually fails — not guesswork.
If this video helps you, consider subscribing for proper small engine repair advice that actually fixes the problem.
I explain why carburetors fail, how to spot each fault, and what the correct fix actually is
Stale / old fuel
Why old fuel causes hard starting and poor running.
Blocked fuel ways and jets
How tiny fuel passages clog, why ethanol makes this worse, and how to clean them properly (not just spraying carb cleaner and hoping).
Ethanol fuel damage explained
How ethanol attracts water, causes corrosion, blocks jets, hardens rubber parts, and slowly kills carburetors — even when the saw isn’t used.
Hardened or damaged diaphragms
Why ethanol causes diaphragms to stiffen, crack, or shrink — and why this leads to no fuel delivery or erratic running. Correct replacement shown.
Worn or damaged metering needle and seat
How wear here causes flooding, fuel starvation, or inconsistent fueling — and how to inspect and fix it properly.
Incorrect metering lever height
Why a lever set too high or too low completely throws fueling off — and how to set it correctly.
Air leaks at the intake / carb manifold
How air leaks cause lean running, racing idle, and cutting out — and how to test and seal them correctly.
Primer / purge bulb faults
Why damaged or leaking primer bulbs stop fuel flow — and when replacement is the only real fix.
Fuel line degradation
How ethanol breaks fuel lines down from the inside, causing blockages, air leaks, and debris in the carb — and how to replace them correctly.
Blocked Welch (core) plugs
Why fuel can clog under Welch plugs where you can’t see it — and how this causes mysterious running faults.
Blocked fuel tank vent
How a blocked vent creates vacuum in the tank, starving the carb of fuel — and how to diagnose it fast.
Internal corrosion inside the carburetor
What ethanol corrosion looks like inside fuel passages, why it’s often missed, and when a carb body is beyond saving.
Fuel adjuster screws set incorrectly
What happens when screws are too far in (lean) or too far out (rich), and why a good baseline is:
Gently seated, then one full turn out on each screw
Aftermarket / cheap carburetors explained
Why some aftermarket carbs fail straight out of the box — poor tolerances, defective diaphragms, weak needles, and inferior build quality — and when they’re not worth fitting.
Have a great day
Craig
