Uploaded August 2022 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Avoiding high-risk rotator cuff loading: Muscle force during three pull-up techniques: bit.ly/39Twfz3
- Electromyographic analysis of muscle activation during pull-up variations: bit.ly/3Ah9K1s
- Surface electromyographic activation patterns and elbow joint motion during a pull-up, chin-up, or perfect-pullup™ rotational exercise: bit.ly/3HWB4nz
- Scapula kinematics of pull-up techniques: Avoiding impingement risk with training changes: bit.ly/39Vhzzg
- The Effect of Grip Width and Hand Orientation on Muscle Activity During Pull-ups and the Lat Pull-down: bit.ly/3R1xdty
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Let's Make a Bet
00:20 Standard Grip Context
00:57 Standard Grip Biomechanics
02:38 Wide Grip Context
04:10 Wide Grip Biomechanics
05:43 Reverse Grip Context
06:25 Reverse Grip Biomechanics
07:44 Narrow and Neutral Grip Pullups
08:47 Who Won the Bet?
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 111
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-pullups-work-wide-grip-standard-chin-up-biomechanics
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Human anatomy: OpenStax, CC BY 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Adam Ondra: Les Ailes du Desir, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Earth: Kevin Gill from Nashua, NH, United States, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Row: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Brachioradialis: OpenStax College, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Avoiding high-risk rotator cuff loading: Muscle force during three pull-up techniques: bit.ly/39Twfz3
- Electromyographic analysis of muscle activation during pull-up variations: bit.ly/3Ah9K1s
- Surface electromyographic activation patterns and elbow joint motion during a pull-up, chin-up, or perfect-pullup™ rotational exercise: bit.ly/3HWB4nz
- Scapula kinematics of pull-up techniques: Avoiding impingement risk with training changes: bit.ly/39Vhzzg
- The Effect of Grip Width and Hand Orientation on Muscle Activity During Pull-ups and the Lat Pull-down: bit.ly/3R1xdty
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Let's Make a Bet
00:20 Standard Grip Context
00:57 Standard Grip Biomechanics
02:38 Wide Grip Context
04:10 Wide Grip Biomechanics
05:43 Reverse Grip Context
06:25 Reverse Grip Biomechanics
07:44 Narrow and Neutral Grip Pullups
08:47 Who Won the Bet?
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 111
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-pullups-work-wide-grip-standard-chin-up-biomechanics
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Human anatomy: OpenStax, CC BY 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Adam Ondra: Les Ailes du Desir, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Earth: Kevin Gill from Nashua, NH, United States, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Row: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Brachioradialis: OpenStax College, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
