Surf’s Up: How the Seafloor Shapes Breaking Waves @scrippsoceanography
Surf’s Up: How the Seafloor Shapes Breaking Waves @scrippsoceanography
Uploaded September 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 hours ago
🏄🏽‍♂️ Calling all surfers, scientists, and surfing scientists — this one’s for you!

Scripps Oceanography PhD student Kanoa Pick recently led a study that dove into the physics behind a pattern surfers have observed for generations: how the seafloor and wave height shape breaking waves, turbulence, and even the movement of sand.

Learn more: https://today.ucsd.edu/story/surfs-up-how-the-seafloor-shapes-breaking-waves
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Scripps Oceanography |

Surf’s Up: How the Seafloor Shapes Breaking Waves

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