Uploaded July 2017 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
This review focuses on the keyboard, keys, charging, quality, and key-press noise, not on Bluetooth pairing or software functionality. I compare with Apple's wired extended keyboard and the Logitech K750 solar keyboard for Mac. The video also shows my experience receiving a defective Matias keyboard and how the replacement compares.
♦♦ Sept. 30, 2017 UPDATE ♦♦ I purchased this keyboard in early July 2017. It's been less than 3 months and I and my family really haven't been pounding on the keyboard that much, yet as you can see from the following photo I shot today, the A and S silkscreen is already coming off and you can also see that the center of those keys are worn (the fine sand-paper-like grit is gone/smooth in the middle of those keys now):
flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/36693554284
♦♦ Nov. 09, 2017 UPDATE ♦♦ I decided to write an email to Matias about my "S" key, asking that I be mailed a replacement key. Since I am in Japan, despite the fact I purchased the US English keyboard, they referred me to their Japanese distributor DIATEC CORPORATION. I wrote an email to DIATEC in English and today, 2 days after my email, my free-of-charge replacement "S" key arrived. It's still disconcerting that the silkscreen began coming off after only 3 months of use, but I am pleased they agreed to mail me a replacement key free of charge. Ask and ye shall receive.
♦♦ Jun. 02, 2018 UPDATE ♦♦ The white silkscreened "A" on that key is quickly disappearing. I've owned personal computers since 1984 but never in all my years of computing have I seen such a low quality keyboard. Even if I contact DIATEC for yet another key replacement, they send out keys of the same exact type, which means over time the white silkscreened letters on those replacement keys too will come off. As such, I cannot recommend this keyboard. Get the Logitec Solar keyboard instead. The letters on those keys appear to be stickers of some sort, but they've never come off nor shown signs of wear.
♦♦ Oct. 20, 2019 UPDATE ♦♦ The white silkscreened "A" is mostly gone, the "S" is completely gone, and the "N" is vanishing fast. But the worst problem now seems to be BlueTooth connectivity in that I will type and have to wait seconds before letters appear on screen. It's gradually getting worse and worse. It also loses connection completely very often. This has become the absolute worse Mac keyboard I have ever used bar none. I cannot recommend this keyboard to new buyers at all. BEWARE!
════════════════════
Gizmos you will see in this video:
▶ Matias Aluminum Keyboard, US layout, p/n: FK418BTB
▶ Apple Wired Extended Keyboard, US layout, p/n: A1243 MB110LL/A
▶ Logitech K750 Solar Keyboard, US layout, p/n: 920-003472
▶ 2015 Retina MacBook Pro 15" (still the best Mac notebook, despite the horrifically unacceptable screen-delimitation/Staingate caveat -- see my other video about that)
▶ Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse, p/n: 910-004373
▶ EIZO EV2750-BK 27" display with 2560×1440 resolution, connected to the rMBP via mini Display Port cable. (Lovely slim bezels, amazingly accurate color, superb Japanese quality, horrific internal speakers, not Retina resolution, expensive)
▶ Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 with Charging Port, p/n: AK-68ANHUB-BV7A
▶ Sony PCM-D100 Hi-Rez Audio Recorder ("S/N 100dB" setting enabled for the making of this video)
▶ OISHI 60L-size Dry Cabinet, p/n: AD-060 (purchased from Amazon Japan)
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#Macintosh #Keyboard #JDW
This review focuses on the keyboard, keys, charging, quality, and key-press noise, not on Bluetooth pairing or software functionality. I compare with Apple's wired extended keyboard and the Logitech K750 solar keyboard for Mac. The video also shows my experience receiving a defective Matias keyboard and how the replacement compares.
♦♦ Sept. 30, 2017 UPDATE ♦♦ I purchased this keyboard in early July 2017. It's been less than 3 months and I and my family really haven't been pounding on the keyboard that much, yet as you can see from the following photo I shot today, the A and S silkscreen is already coming off and you can also see that the center of those keys are worn (the fine sand-paper-like grit is gone/smooth in the middle of those keys now):
flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/36693554284
♦♦ Nov. 09, 2017 UPDATE ♦♦ I decided to write an email to Matias about my "S" key, asking that I be mailed a replacement key. Since I am in Japan, despite the fact I purchased the US English keyboard, they referred me to their Japanese distributor DIATEC CORPORATION. I wrote an email to DIATEC in English and today, 2 days after my email, my free-of-charge replacement "S" key arrived. It's still disconcerting that the silkscreen began coming off after only 3 months of use, but I am pleased they agreed to mail me a replacement key free of charge. Ask and ye shall receive.
♦♦ Jun. 02, 2018 UPDATE ♦♦ The white silkscreened "A" on that key is quickly disappearing. I've owned personal computers since 1984 but never in all my years of computing have I seen such a low quality keyboard. Even if I contact DIATEC for yet another key replacement, they send out keys of the same exact type, which means over time the white silkscreened letters on those replacement keys too will come off. As such, I cannot recommend this keyboard. Get the Logitec Solar keyboard instead. The letters on those keys appear to be stickers of some sort, but they've never come off nor shown signs of wear.
♦♦ Oct. 20, 2019 UPDATE ♦♦ The white silkscreened "A" is mostly gone, the "S" is completely gone, and the "N" is vanishing fast. But the worst problem now seems to be BlueTooth connectivity in that I will type and have to wait seconds before letters appear on screen. It's gradually getting worse and worse. It also loses connection completely very often. This has become the absolute worse Mac keyboard I have ever used bar none. I cannot recommend this keyboard to new buyers at all. BEWARE!
════════════════════
Gizmos you will see in this video:
▶ Matias Aluminum Keyboard, US layout, p/n: FK418BTB
▶ Apple Wired Extended Keyboard, US layout, p/n: A1243 MB110LL/A
▶ Logitech K750 Solar Keyboard, US layout, p/n: 920-003472
▶ 2015 Retina MacBook Pro 15" (still the best Mac notebook, despite the horrifically unacceptable screen-delimitation/Staingate caveat -- see my other video about that)
▶ Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse, p/n: 910-004373
▶ EIZO EV2750-BK 27" display with 2560×1440 resolution, connected to the rMBP via mini Display Port cable. (Lovely slim bezels, amazingly accurate color, superb Japanese quality, horrific internal speakers, not Retina resolution, expensive)
▶ Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 with Charging Port, p/n: AK-68ANHUB-BV7A
▶ Sony PCM-D100 Hi-Rez Audio Recorder ("S/N 100dB" setting enabled for the making of this video)
▶ OISHI 60L-size Dry Cabinet, p/n: AD-060 (purchased from Amazon Japan)
💰SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
If you wish to buy me a drink or otherwise support my content creation: paypal.me/supportJDW
📺 Please SUBSCRIBE:
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#Macintosh #Keyboard #JDW
![Speaker Replacement: mid-2015 MacBook Pro 15 A1398 [Revised]
4K video shows crackling speaker problem, 15 MBP Retina (11,5) teardown, left & right speakers replaced, reassembly, and speaker testing. This Mac is my daily driver, used to edit and render my YouTube videos. I wish you all a very Happy New Year in 2022!
✔️ This is an improved version of my original video. The tiny ribbon cable I accidentally neglected to mention in my original video is now clearly mentioned. Original video: https://youtu.be/zGzx1d1sfmM
🔎 INDEX
0:00 — Crackling LEFT Speaker
1:19 — Pricing & Genuine Apple Parts
4:22 — Teardown
16:27 — Speaker Replacement & Reassembly
25:58 — Testing
27:58 — Closing Thoughts
🛠️ THINGS TO BUY
• Apple Genuine Service Parts BOTH SPEAKERS from EBAY tecknic-lee: https://bit.ly/40WlbHI
(Sadly, unavailable for the 2015 MBP 15 as of February 2025)
• Screwdriver Set: https://amzn.to/3eC4hX2
• Plastic Tweezer Set: https://amzn.to/3HpzKbh
• Rocket Blower: https://amzn.to/31854vM
ALTERNATIVE SPEAKERS...
• Both Speakers (NOT Genuine Apple!): https://amzn.to/3EFrker
• iFixit LEFT Speaker (USED! Not Genuine Apple?): https://bit.ly/3qxPSAQ
• iFixit RIGHT Speaker (USED! Not Genuine Apple?): https://bit.ly/3sFLW3K
• Grounding Wrist Strap, Silicone Pad & Wall Socket Adapter: https://amzn.to/4dOZ8sd
• Sony D100 Recorder: Sadly discontinued in March 2021, it can still be found on EBAY and ranks among the best compact handheld field recorders money can buy. Similar grade alternatives:
• Tascam DR-100MKIII: https://amzn.to/3ENeriv
• Sony D10: https://amzn.to/3eFJj9J
💵 NOTE: Your price on Amazon (USA only) is the same even if you dont click the amzn.to Affiliate links above, but if you do kindly click and purchase within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission on all qualifying items in your Cart (even items not linked above).
🔴 UPDATE on Right Speaker DEFECT 🔴
My dealings with technic-lee show them to be an honest and friendly EBAY vendor who I highly recommend. These courteous folks responded promptly and very professionally to my mention of the Right speaker crackle defect. They resolved the speaker issue to my complete satisfaction. It was definitely my best transaction experience on EBAY to date. Regarding the Apple logos missing on the Service Parts, they offered this helpful information:
We wish Apple would put logos on their service parts but unfortunately they don’t. It would definitely help with consumers wanting to repair their own machines. We can only guess it’s because the parts are internal and only meant for authorized service providers to install. However, that may change soon as Apple has announced their Self Service Repair where they will start selling their parts directly to consumers.
The number on the box is the Apple part number. The part is made in a factory in China. Not sure if it’s Foxcon, where they produce the iPhone, or Flex, in Singapore, or some other factory. They are pretty tight-lipped about it and since they ship the parts from their warehouses in United States, we see no addresses or information to give us any clues. We aren’t even sure if the parts come in similar packaging in other countries. All the parts come in the same plain brown boxes or envelopes, with the Apple part number label and green tape.
📚 REFERENCE
• PHOTO I printed on paper to remember screw locations: https://bit.ly/3pFF733
• MUSIC used in this video is MydNyte from the YouTube Audio Library:
https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary
• iFixit LEFT Speaker GUIDE: https://bit.ly/3sJIDsj
• iFixit RIGHT Speaker GUIDE: https://bit.ly/3mJU7YZ
• $300 Apple Speaker Repair price mentioned here: https://bit.ly/3qxvfF6
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS TO:
• Stephen Arsenault (BetterBit), who kindly sent me the cute little Happy Mac PCB pin which affixes by a strong magnet. If you like it, be sure to click Star (upper right corner) on the project page, which also talks about ordering (its a PCB): https://github.com/Stephen-Arsenault/happy-mac
🎥 My related 2015 15 MBP videos:
• CPU Repasting: https://youtu.be/_XQNGNAwrLw
• Swollen Batteries: https://youtu.be/Om1c-FCc5u0
💰SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
• Paypal: https://www.paypal.me/supportJDW
📺 SUBSCRIBE
http://www.youtube.com/c/JDW11/?sub_confirmation=1
#MacBookPro #Speakers #Repair #JDW Speaker Replacement: mid-2015 MacBook Pro 15 A1398 [Revised]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/pBaNHAKfW04/mqdefault.jpg)
![Apple Hard Disk 20 (HD20) Recapping [Part 1 of 2]
Watch me take apart and recap the RODIME 552 hard drive in an Apple HD20 drive enclosure using my new HAKKO FR-301 desoldering gun. I also replace the stock ELINA fan for a quiet Noctua. Watch Part-2 here: https://youtu.be/ve5PlBCBHfQ
🔎 INDEX
0:00 — Intro
0:56 — Take Apart
3:31 — FloppyEMU & Tash20
6:02 — Capacitor & Screw Locations
7:39 — Hakko FR-301 Overview
11:38 — Desoldering Old Capacitors
15:57 — Installing New Capacitors
21:14 — Pondering Lubrication
24:08 — Reassembly
25:38 — Noctua Fan
27:30 — Boot Test
29:09 — Closing Thoughts
🛒 BUY
• CAPACITORS, Mouser Cart (Rodime Drive only): https://bit.ly/45lCimt
• Noctua Fan (NF-A6x25): https://amzn.to/3LWl8VS
• Hakko FR-301 (Amazon USA): https://amzn.to/3tfgziR
I purchased this one on Amazon Japan: https://amzn.to/3tuQeO0
• Hakko Soldering Station (FX888DX): https://amzn.to/4kEttgq
or
• Hakko Soldering Station FX951: https://amzn.to/3DzeaoJ
• MG Chemicals Flux: https://amzn.to/3kuAcsZ
• Generic Solder 100g (60-40 Leaded Rosin Core 0.6mm, 2% flux): https://amzn.to/3FDRscn
• Kester Solder 454g (60-40 Leaded Rosin Core 0.8mm, 3.3% flux): https://amzn.to/3tLFwT9
• 2-spool Solder Holder: https://amzn.to/39hIMbt
• Hakko 599B Tip Cleaner: https://amzn.to/3RHy5o4
• HAKKO Fume Extractor: https://amzn.to/3MApWyb
• 99% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): https://amzn.to/3ae4fG6
• 99% ISO Alcohol: https://amzn.to/3R5TRCk
💁♂️2 alcohol choices because its often out of stock. 70% will work, 91% is better, but 99% is best for electronics cleaning (fast drying & no residue).
• FloppyEMU: https://bit.ly/2BA8yru
• Tash20 Budget Model: https://ko-fi.com/s/77f53b293e
• Tash20 Tiny External: https://ko-fi.com/s/2bfee029f5
• The New Apple II Users Guide: https://amzn.to/3tvuth0
• DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter (Amazon US): https://amzn.to/2ScttJz
NOTE: Links to Amazon USA in this text description are affiliate links that may generate small revenue for this channel if something is purchased within 24 hours of clicking the link.
📚 REFERENCE
• Rodime Drive Capacitors: https://bit.ly/3ZOkuiF
• MacGUI, HD20 Article: https://bit.ly/46qiTlK
• Macworld Review of HD20: https://bit.ly/3PNCiG8
• MacGUI, HD20 SCSI Controller (HD-20 WSI): https://bit.ly/46liNvz
• Macworld Review of HD-20 WSI SCSI Controller: https://bit.ly/46lip05
• MacGUI, SCSI for the Mac 512K: https://bit.ly/3Qa5atH
• MacGUI, Lubricating the Rodime 552: https://macgui.com/news/article.php?t=445
⚠️ NOTE: You must be LOGGED IN to see the full article. Sorry. Its his rule, not mine.
• The New Apple II Users Guide: https://macgui.com/newa2guide/
• HD20 Teardown: https://oldcrap.org/2019/06/21/macintosh-hard-disk-20/
💾 SOFTWARE
• HD20-related downloads: http://bitsavers.org/pdf/apple/disk/hd20/
• HD20 Boot Floppy (for Mac512K with 64K ROMs): https://bit.ly/45ryUX8
🙏 THANK YOU, Paypal supporters!
• Frank Conforti 🇺🇸 (monumental supporter)
• Philippe Astier 🇫🇷 (monthly supporter)
• Mauro Acciaccaferri 🇮🇹 (monthly supporter)
• Gavin Maxwell 🇦🇺 (monthly supporter)
• Mark B. Newlon 🇺🇸 (repeat supporter)
• Brian Gorham 🇺🇸 (new supporter)
• Francesco Restuccia 🇮🇹Sicily (first time supporter)
💰SUPPORT ME
https://www.paypal.me/supportJDW
📺 SUBSCRIBE
http://www.youtube.com/c/JDW11/?sub_confirmation=1
🎬 MY VIDEOS
https://www.youtube.com/user/JDW26/videos
#AppleHD20 #Recapping #HakkoFR301 #JDW1 Apple Hard Disk 20 (HD20) Recapping [Part 1 of 2]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/pa4y1jRSdew/mqdefault.jpg)


![VGA mod for the Macintosh Color Classic (640x480) & Doping Mac
I examine 3 ways to get 640x480 on the Color Classic, then implement the VGA Mod. Before/After screens shown. VGA lets you to use software that wont work on 512x384.
🙏 HUMBLE THANKS to Kay Koba (Keros Mac Mods) whose advice I cherish. Kays Blog articles: https://ameblo.jp/keroxiee1016/entrylist.html
📺 My CC CRT Adjustments Video: https://youtu.be/PUVkIPpuMQ4
🔎 INDEX
0:00 — Intro
0:24 — Doping Mac
2:00 — 3 Hardware Mods
3:57 — [Method #1] 13 Hi-Rez Mod
5:31 — [Method #2] Apple Prototype
6:55 — [Method #3] VGA Mod
8:15 — Disassembly & Installation
22:36 — With ONLY Line Sense changed...
23:29 — Horizontal Deflection Voltage change
26:39 — Reassembly
33:45 — After Video Adjustments
35:26 — Testing
43:15 — Closing Thoughts
🛒 THINGS TO BUY:
• Doping Mac: https://bit.ly/34nXjD9
• Torx T15 with LONG neck (to open Mac): https://amzn.to/4a3vmhv
• Bulldog Clip (helpful to pry off back case): https://amzn.to/2H7lIhF
• 5x/11x Magnifier: https://amzn.to/3lGogXI
• 4.3 LCD Microscope: https://amzn.to/3uO9ao5
• Hakko Soldering Station: https://amzn.to/3ArxBJ6
💁♂️TIP: Use 350°C & Leaded solder.
• Solder (Leaded Rosin Core 0.8mm): https://amzn.to/3GzJbVl
• MG Chemicals Flux: https://amzn.to/3kuAcsZ
• Desoldering wick: https://amzn.to/3iMAnA5
• 99.9% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): https://amzn.to/3HHWi8lor
• UV Solder Mask: https://amzn.to/3hogoaE
• 10W UV Flashlight (for curing): https://amzn.to/3DLbizS
• Anti-static pad with Wrist Strap (16x24 / 41x61cm): https://amzn.to/3bfAE9Z
• Wall socket Ground adapter for banana-jack Wrist Strap: https://amzn.to/2Yvq5ge
• Flat-head (–) Screwdriver (for CRT discharging)
• Wire with alligator clips at both ends (for CRT discharging)
• X-Acto razor blade box cutter knife (or Dremel)
💵 NOTE: Your price on Amazon (US only) is the same even if you dont click the amzn.to Affiliate links above, but if you do click & purchase within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission on qualifying items in your Cart.
🛒 CAPACITORS for Analog Board:
• Console5 Kit: https://bit.ly/3L8Im9h
• Capacitor List: https://bit.ly/3uaaqms
• Bruce Raynes board overview: https://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-cc-analog/
⚠️ I have not recapped one yet (mine is recapped), so please consider Console5 and their capacitor list.
📚 REFERENCE
• Apple Service Source on Color Classic: https://bit.ly/3AHwBle
• Apple Tech Note on SENSE LINES: https://bit.ly/3gcFeus
• Sense line & ID info (see table low on the page): https://bit.ly/3rdS8yR
(12 Mode = 512x384)
• Method #1 was shown by MicroMac in 1998 (13 Hi-rez Mod): https://bit.ly/35vIu1X
• Method #2 (Option 2) & Method #3 (Option 1) are on PowerCC: https://bit.ly/3s6HatZ
• Method #2 discussion by TechKnight: https://bit.ly/3g9ypKb
• New York Times article about CC enthusiasts: https://nyti.ms/3Kg6E0f
• Imai, Takashi (今井隆) created the VGA Mod (Method #3) & High Resolution 13 Mod (Method #1).
• Akizuki, Makoto (秋月誠) created the Takky PPC Mod with Mr. Imai.
• Recent photo of Mr. Akizuki (age 60?): https://bit.ly/34nYzXa
• Color Classic FAQ: https://tinyurl.com/yc4mwxp2
• PPI Calculator: https://bit.ly/3obY2yw
🤓 IMPORTANT INFO NOT MENTIONED IN VIDEO
• You must adjust the CC CRT when switching between 640x480 & 800x600 because its not Multi-sync.
• Theres no motherboard mod to get 640x480. You can change Line Sense on the motherboard or ribbon cable but not Horizontal Deflection Voltage. Thats why we make Line Sense & Deflection Voltage changes on the Analog Board.
• Like 512x384? After doing the Mystic upgrade, I used a ResEdit-hacked System Enabler 065 v1.1 in System 7.1 to get it to work at 512x384 (doesnt work with S7.5.5): https://bit.ly/3HhyPtU
• ResEdit hacks to the System file in 7.5.x, 7.6.x & OS 8.x are required for the LC575 Mystic motherboard to work at 512x384 if you do NOT do the logic board mod (ResEdit hacks needed if you do a 640x480 VGA mod): https://bit.ly/3VAm9qK
• An LC575 logic board resistor mod lets you use the stock CC resolution of 512x384 without need for any ResEdit hacks: https://powercc.org/mystic/
• The more robust and durable LC575 Analog Board can be cut to fit inside a CC, and METHOD #1 or METHOD #3 can be used. But the Flyback transformer from CC Analog board must be used: https://amba.to/3obq7G4
Tyler Smith shows that same 575 Analog Board mod here: https://bit.ly/3HhIosK
💾 SOFTWARE
• Photoshop 4.0: https://bit.ly/3INa752
• Dark Forces: https://bit.ly/32JtBIo
• Marathon: https://bit.ly/3ubZiFD
• MS Encarta 96: https://bit.ly/3rbxkIg
💰SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
https://www.paypal.me/supportJDW
🙏 SINCERE THANKS to the these recent Paypal donors:
• Anonymous (12/30/2021)
• Mauro Acciaccaferri (monthly supporter)
• Eric Helgeson
• Jason Heiser
• Frank Wiesner
#Macintosh #ColorClassic #VGAmod #JDW VGA mod for the Macintosh Color Classic (640x480) & Doping Mac](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/q_CB7gQTy38/mqdefault.jpg)





