Uploaded March 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 hours ago
In today's episode we discuss how to modify the sleeve size (increasing the circumference) of a raglan style sweater without changing the body size of the sweater.
*Are you ready to knit your first sweater but don't know where to start?* I've created a FREE guide with everything you need to be successful in your first hand knit sweater! Check it out, here: unapologeticknitter.com/mfs
Want to check out Episode 5 about modifying the sleeve circumference of a top-down sweater?
Click here: youtu.be/PbIqfYXrdtM
Have you got more burning questions? Submit a form for future discussion topics:
Click here: unapologeticknitter.com/knit-talk
Want to receive weekly reminders right in your inbox about new tutorials, vlogs or pattern releases? Sign up for my newsletter, here: unapologeticknitter.com/newsletter
DOWNLOAD THE SCHEMATIC, GRID and SAMPLE PATTERN: unapologeticknitter.com/knit-talk-downloads
DETAILS FOR CHANGING YOUR SLEEVE SIZE:
1) Determine the difference in the number of stitches to place on hold for each sleeve: 52 (for size 3) is 10 sts more than 42 (for size 1) so we need to add 10 extra sts to each sleeve (or 5 to each edge of the visual) before we separate the sleeves from the body.
2) Starting at the last row of your yoke (the pink line), add these extra stitches in from the top, towards the bottom. You can do this in Double Increase rounds worked every other round or by working the same increase (1 stitch at each sleeve edge) every round. This maintains the total target yoke depth for Size 1 so you don't end up with a yoke that is too long.
3) **Important:** when you're casting on stitches at each underarm, be sure to follow instructions for size 1 (to maintain your body circumference) and then, when you knit your sleeves, be sure to pick up and knit the number of stitches required for size 3 (if the numbers aren't the same for every size) to make sure you have the total number of stitches you need!
MATH ON DETERMINING YOKE LENGTH
1) Count up the total number of rounds used in the yoke. For the example we have 2 Setup Rnds, 34 rounds in Yoke Section 1 and 4 rounds in Yoke Section 2. This equals 40 rounds.
2) Divide your total rounds (40) by the row gauge of the pattern (26), and then multiply the resulting number (1.54) by:
a) 4 if you're working in inches: 1.54 x 4 = 6.16 (or rounded to 6")
b) 10 if you're working in metric: 1.54 x 10 = 15.4 (or rounded to 15 cm)
THE LEARNING HAT PATTERN
To follow along with episode 7, where we're going to be covering differentials in gauge, we're going to reference this pattern: ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-learning-hat
To keep an eye on future videos from me search #knittalkwithatecheditor or #unapologeticknitter
In today's episode we discuss how to modify the sleeve size (increasing the circumference) of a raglan style sweater without changing the body size of the sweater.
*Are you ready to knit your first sweater but don't know where to start?* I've created a FREE guide with everything you need to be successful in your first hand knit sweater! Check it out, here: unapologeticknitter.com/mfs
Want to check out Episode 5 about modifying the sleeve circumference of a top-down sweater?
Click here: youtu.be/PbIqfYXrdtM
Have you got more burning questions? Submit a form for future discussion topics:
Click here: unapologeticknitter.com/knit-talk
Want to receive weekly reminders right in your inbox about new tutorials, vlogs or pattern releases? Sign up for my newsletter, here: unapologeticknitter.com/newsletter
DOWNLOAD THE SCHEMATIC, GRID and SAMPLE PATTERN: unapologeticknitter.com/knit-talk-downloads
DETAILS FOR CHANGING YOUR SLEEVE SIZE:
1) Determine the difference in the number of stitches to place on hold for each sleeve: 52 (for size 3) is 10 sts more than 42 (for size 1) so we need to add 10 extra sts to each sleeve (or 5 to each edge of the visual) before we separate the sleeves from the body.
2) Starting at the last row of your yoke (the pink line), add these extra stitches in from the top, towards the bottom. You can do this in Double Increase rounds worked every other round or by working the same increase (1 stitch at each sleeve edge) every round. This maintains the total target yoke depth for Size 1 so you don't end up with a yoke that is too long.
3) **Important:** when you're casting on stitches at each underarm, be sure to follow instructions for size 1 (to maintain your body circumference) and then, when you knit your sleeves, be sure to pick up and knit the number of stitches required for size 3 (if the numbers aren't the same for every size) to make sure you have the total number of stitches you need!
MATH ON DETERMINING YOKE LENGTH
1) Count up the total number of rounds used in the yoke. For the example we have 2 Setup Rnds, 34 rounds in Yoke Section 1 and 4 rounds in Yoke Section 2. This equals 40 rounds.
2) Divide your total rounds (40) by the row gauge of the pattern (26), and then multiply the resulting number (1.54) by:
a) 4 if you're working in inches: 1.54 x 4 = 6.16 (or rounded to 6")
b) 10 if you're working in metric: 1.54 x 10 = 15.4 (or rounded to 15 cm)
THE LEARNING HAT PATTERN
To follow along with episode 7, where we're going to be covering differentials in gauge, we're going to reference this pattern: ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-learning-hat
To keep an eye on future videos from me search #knittalkwithatecheditor or #unapologeticknitter






![How To: Work an Afterthought Pocket - Every Step from Waste Yarn to Seaming!
Walk through all of the steps needed to create an afterthought pocket. This method is very commonly found in patterns from Andrea Mowry / Drea Renee Knits.
*Tools used to work the sample:*
- 3 lengths of waste yarn, each approx. 24 / 60 cm long (though length is not critical).
- Tapestry needle for placing lifelines and seaming
*To cast on a sample like Ive worked in this video:*
Using sport weight yarn and a US 6 / 4 mm needles in a 24 / 60 cm length (or preferred needle length/type), cast on 30 stitches. Any method will do though I used the long tail method.
Knit 5 rows (this creates the bottom garter ridges, including the cast on edge)
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K3, p24, k3.
Rep [Rows 1 and 2] 7 more times (16 rows total of stockinette stitch)
Place Pocket Row (RS): K9, place lifeline thru next 12 sts, join waste yarn and knit across 12 sts, slip all 12 sts back to the right hand needle purlwise, knit across the same 12 sts again with working yarn, knit to the end of the row. When complete, thread the third piece of waste yarn through the 12 stitches on top of the pocket (or you can place them through the 12 sts before you knit to the end of the row).
Next Row (WS): K3, p24, k3.
Rep [Rows 1 and 2] 3 more times.
Knit 5 rows.
BO knitwise with WS facing.
*Tutorial: how to weave in ends* - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq_w_GDgvn0
A huge thanks for yarn support to @EweEweYarns !
Learn more about the entire Ewe Ewe Yarns lineup at https://eweewe.com/collections/yarns
Check out TanglesNKnots offerings for the nylon cord Im using in the video, here: https://www.tanglesnknots.com/collections/chinese-knotting-cord-1
Find me on:
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/people/notsorryknitter
Web: http://www.unapologeticknitter.com
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/notsorryknitter/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/unapologeticknitter
*Sign up for my newsletter:* http://www.unapologeticknitter.com/newsletter How To: Work an Afterthought Pocket - Every Step from Waste Yarn to Seaming!](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ww8gHl1tOCI/mqdefault.jpg)



