Uploaded November 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
We discuss the use of hypoxic generators to pre-acclimatize for 8000 meter mountains by Everest Climbers (without supplemental Oxygen) Killian Jornet, Adrian Ballinger, and Emily Harrington. We discuss the academic evidence for pre-acclimatization and why the published studies are lagging industry practice.
Emily Harrington on her Rapid Ascent of Cho Oyu
ukclimbing.com/articles/features/emily_harrington_on_her_rapid_ascent_of_cho_oyu-8838
International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 2019, 14, 1438-1441
https://doi.Org/10.1123/ijspp.2018-0931
On Top to the Top—Acclimatization Strategy for the “Fastest Known Time” to Mount Everest
Gregoire P. Millet and Kilian Jornet
High Altitude Medicine & Biology VOL. 11, NO. 1
Training in Normobaric Hypoxia and Its Effects on Acute Mountain Sickness after Rapid Ascent to 4559 m Kai Schommer, Neele Wiesegart, Elmar Menold, Ute Haas, Katrin Lahr, Hermann Buhl, Peter Bärtsch, and Christoph Dehnert
doi.org/10.1089/ham.2009.1019
We talk about why pre-acclimatization with normabaric hypoxic generators makes sense for high-altitude mountaineering above 5,000 meters or 16,000 fee for people who have jobs. Most of the folks that can attempt high-altitude summits live far below 8,000 feet or 2,500 meters and have to acclimatize for weeks to attempt Aconcagua 6961 meters or 22,837 feet or months to attempt Mount Everest.
Use our Amazon affiliate link #ad to monitor your heart rate and blood oxygen percent using a generator.
Zacurate Pro Series 500DL Fingertip Pulse Oximeter Blood Oxygen Saturation Monitor with Silicone Cover, Batteries and Lanyard (Royal Black)
amzn.to/3MuYLam
Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
We translate the settings into simulated altitude and suggest an acclimatization plan. This IS NOT medical or exercise advice. These are just the opinions of someone who has NO medical or exercise training. You should consult a physician and do your own readings of the academic research. Two studies we liked were
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331–345 (2022). doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00150-0
See our videos:
TIPS to HIGH POINT Mt. Elbert the Top of Colorado and the Rockies, 14,440'
youtu.be/w-CZ0eT8LII
SECRETS to Summit WHEELER PEAK, High Point of New Mexico, 13,161'
youtu.be/mqe17AvObug
Guadalupe Peak, TX High Point, 8,751 feet, 8.4 to 10.3 mile hike to the Top of Texas
youtu.be/K2qfrb0Eaxw
BEST HIGH WIND Winter Tent? Pitching the Kuiu Storm Star 2P 4-Season Tent with First Impressions
youtu.be/lMx8ykRO2x0
The Seven (NINE) Summits Ranking By Difficulty & Cost, Highest Mountains on 7 (6 or 8) Continents
youtu.be/7SDS--49pck
Pitching ALPS Mountaineering Tasmanian 2-Person, 4-Season Tent, Impressions
youtu.be/HLky8Bb8COg
Guided Trips PROBABLY Won't Get YOU to the Summit of Big Mountains, Aconcaugua, Pico de Orizaba
youtu.be/kxW0MMf5kxA
HAPE on the Summit of Pico de Orizaba 18,491 feet, the Highest Mountain in Mexico, AMS
youtu.be/TGAR4-Urt2M
TIps to Climb Mt. Kosciuszko in Winter, Highest Peak in Australia, One of the 7 Summits, July 2022
youtu.be/RJ9hCB34T9M
Get Linus Wilson’s bestselling sailing books:
Slow Boat to the Bahamas at
amazon.com/dp/B018OUI1Q2
on Audible at
https://www.audible.com/pd/B07N7QFNJR...
Slow Boat to Cuba
amazon.com/dp/B01MFFX9AG
gumroad.com/l/cubabook
and How to Sail Around the World-Part Time
amazon.com/dp/B01B0OFYNW
gumroad.com/l/sailing
See also
COVID Road Trip: An RV Adventure
amazon.com/COVID-Road-Trip-RV-Adventure/dp/B098GL3XNC
have been #1 sailing ebook bestsellers on Amazon.
You can get the full audiobook of Sailing to Treasure Island by Captain John C. Voss. at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Support the videos at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Associate Producer Rick Moore (SSL)
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Copyright Linus Wilson, Oxriver Publishing, Vermilion Advisory Services, LLC, 2023
We discuss the use of hypoxic generators to pre-acclimatize for 8000 meter mountains by Everest Climbers (without supplemental Oxygen) Killian Jornet, Adrian Ballinger, and Emily Harrington. We discuss the academic evidence for pre-acclimatization and why the published studies are lagging industry practice.
Emily Harrington on her Rapid Ascent of Cho Oyu
ukclimbing.com/articles/features/emily_harrington_on_her_rapid_ascent_of_cho_oyu-8838
International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 2019, 14, 1438-1441
https://doi.Org/10.1123/ijspp.2018-0931
On Top to the Top—Acclimatization Strategy for the “Fastest Known Time” to Mount Everest
Gregoire P. Millet and Kilian Jornet
High Altitude Medicine & Biology VOL. 11, NO. 1
Training in Normobaric Hypoxia and Its Effects on Acute Mountain Sickness after Rapid Ascent to 4559 m Kai Schommer, Neele Wiesegart, Elmar Menold, Ute Haas, Katrin Lahr, Hermann Buhl, Peter Bärtsch, and Christoph Dehnert
doi.org/10.1089/ham.2009.1019
We talk about why pre-acclimatization with normabaric hypoxic generators makes sense for high-altitude mountaineering above 5,000 meters or 16,000 fee for people who have jobs. Most of the folks that can attempt high-altitude summits live far below 8,000 feet or 2,500 meters and have to acclimatize for weeks to attempt Aconcagua 6961 meters or 22,837 feet or months to attempt Mount Everest.
Use our Amazon affiliate link #ad to monitor your heart rate and blood oxygen percent using a generator.
Zacurate Pro Series 500DL Fingertip Pulse Oximeter Blood Oxygen Saturation Monitor with Silicone Cover, Batteries and Lanyard (Royal Black)
amzn.to/3MuYLam
Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
We translate the settings into simulated altitude and suggest an acclimatization plan. This IS NOT medical or exercise advice. These are just the opinions of someone who has NO medical or exercise training. You should consult a physician and do your own readings of the academic research. Two studies we liked were
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331–345 (2022). doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00150-0
See our videos:
TIPS to HIGH POINT Mt. Elbert the Top of Colorado and the Rockies, 14,440'
youtu.be/w-CZ0eT8LII
SECRETS to Summit WHEELER PEAK, High Point of New Mexico, 13,161'
youtu.be/mqe17AvObug
Guadalupe Peak, TX High Point, 8,751 feet, 8.4 to 10.3 mile hike to the Top of Texas
youtu.be/K2qfrb0Eaxw
BEST HIGH WIND Winter Tent? Pitching the Kuiu Storm Star 2P 4-Season Tent with First Impressions
youtu.be/lMx8ykRO2x0
The Seven (NINE) Summits Ranking By Difficulty & Cost, Highest Mountains on 7 (6 or 8) Continents
youtu.be/7SDS--49pck
Pitching ALPS Mountaineering Tasmanian 2-Person, 4-Season Tent, Impressions
youtu.be/HLky8Bb8COg
Guided Trips PROBABLY Won't Get YOU to the Summit of Big Mountains, Aconcaugua, Pico de Orizaba
youtu.be/kxW0MMf5kxA
HAPE on the Summit of Pico de Orizaba 18,491 feet, the Highest Mountain in Mexico, AMS
youtu.be/TGAR4-Urt2M
TIps to Climb Mt. Kosciuszko in Winter, Highest Peak in Australia, One of the 7 Summits, July 2022
youtu.be/RJ9hCB34T9M
Get Linus Wilson’s bestselling sailing books:
Slow Boat to the Bahamas at
amazon.com/dp/B018OUI1Q2
on Audible at
https://www.audible.com/pd/B07N7QFNJR...
Slow Boat to Cuba
amazon.com/dp/B01MFFX9AG
gumroad.com/l/cubabook
and How to Sail Around the World-Part Time
amazon.com/dp/B01B0OFYNW
gumroad.com/l/sailing
See also
COVID Road Trip: An RV Adventure
amazon.com/COVID-Road-Trip-RV-Adventure/dp/B098GL3XNC
have been #1 sailing ebook bestsellers on Amazon.
You can get the full audiobook of Sailing to Treasure Island by Captain John C. Voss. at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Support the videos at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Associate Producer Rick Moore (SSL)
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Copyright Linus Wilson, Oxriver Publishing, Vermilion Advisory Services, LLC, 2023
