Uploaded November 2022 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
![How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Power Endurance Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tK5VNaRJ60c/mqdefault.jpg "How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Power Endurance Guide]
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code Hooper10
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and what to expect
// SECTION 1: Why? //
01:21 Why boulderers should care
02:36 Why not just train strength instead?
// SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options //
03:16 Overview of Training Options
04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous (circuiting)
05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons
05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent
06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent?
07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall?
07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview
08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended)
08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent (Repeaters)
09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete?
11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent
12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board?
12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview
13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent
14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead?
15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets?
15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol
// SECTION 3: Programming recommendations //
16:45 So... which method should I choose?
17:40 Why no talk of energy systems?
19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general?
20:10 How intense should endurance sets be?
21:00 How many endurance sets per training session?
21:47 How much rest should I take?
23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training?
23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance?
// SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks //
24:42 Pick the right climbs
25:09 Head to the overhang
25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake
25:53 Key to long-term progress...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
All exercises and recovery programs are to be performed at your own risk and should not be perforemed if you think you may be at risk of injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy")
