Hoopers Beta | Front Lever Training Mistake @HoopersBeta | Uploaded January 2023 | Updated October 2024, 1 hour ago.
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🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a two-man team, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
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🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
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- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
![How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tK5VNaRJ60c/hqdefault.jpg "How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024]
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🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a029744
2: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4
3: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/905612
4: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and what to expect
// SECTION 1: Why? //
01:21 Why boulderers should care
02:36 Why not just train strength instead?
// SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options //
03:16 Overview of Training Options
04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous (Circuiting)
05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons
05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent
06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent?
07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall?
07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview
08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended)
08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent (Repeaters)
09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete?
11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent
12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board?
12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview
13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent
14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead?
15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets?
15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol
// SECTION 3: Programming recommendations //
16:45 So... which method should I choose?
17:40 Why no talk of energy systems?
19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general?
20:10 How intense should endurance sets be?
21:00 How many endurance sets per training session?
21:47 How much rest should I take?
23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training?
23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance?
// SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks //
24:42 Pick the right climbs
25:09 Head to the overhang
25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake
25:53 Key to long-term progress...
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 143
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-stop-punting-endurance-training-for-boulderers-guide-2024
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As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
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