Uploaded September 2025 | Updated September 2026, 1 day ago

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This is Day 3 of my 6-day solo trek across the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls trails — an unforgettable journey through Iceland’s wild highlands.

Full Guide: hikingwithlee.com/the-laugavegur-trek-iceland-self-guided-complete-guide

After a stormy night, I woke up to something rare in Iceland: blue skies and no wind. The views around Álftavatn hut were stunning — lake, mountains, and golden light. It was the perfect start to what turned out to be one of the most beautiful (and deceptively long) days on the trail.

From mossy valleys and two icy river crossings, to endless stretches of black volcanic desert that felt like walking on another planet, the scenery kept changing but never stopped impressing. Eventually, I descended into Emstrur — home to dramatic canyons, tight hut sleeping quarters, and my first hot shower of the trek.

And yes, after three days of freeze-dried meals, watching a guided group barbecue salmon was almost too much to handle. Almost.

📍 Laugavegur Trail Overview
Total Distance → ~55 km (4 days)
Day 1: Landmannalaugar → Hrafntinnusker (12 km, 4–5 hrs)
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn (12 km, 4–5 hrs)
Day 3: Álftavatn → Emstrur via Hvanngil (16 km, 5–6 hrs)
Day 4: Emstrur → Þórsmörk (15 km, 6–7 hrs)
Fimmvörðuháls Extension → 25 km (2 days) Þórsmörk → Skógar Waterfalls

⛰️ Day 3 Highlights
🌞 Rare blue skies and perfect weather
🌱 Mossy valleys framed by colourful mountains
🥶 Two icy glacier-fed river crossings
🏜️ Endless black sand desert — alien landscapes
🚿 First hot shower of the trek (pure bliss!)
🐟 Guided group salmon BBQ envy
🌄 Stunning canyon views near Emstrur huts

🎥 Watch the Series
Episode 1 → Landmannalaugar – Iceland’s Hidden Gem (already live)
Episode 2 → Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn 🌫️ (already live)
Episode 3 → YOU ARE HERE
Episode 4 → Emstrur → Þórsmörk 🌲
Episode 5 → Fimmvörðuháls → Skógar 💦

Chapters:
00:00:00 Intro
00:00:45 Morning at Álftavatn Hut 🛖
00:04:13 Mossy Trails & Mountain Views 🌱
00:06:18 First River Crossing 🥶
00:08:49 Passing Hvanngil Campsite 🏕️
00:09:57 Second River Crossing 🌊
00:10:38 Into the Endless Black Desert 🏜️
00:15:02 Descending Toward Emstrur 🏔️
00:17:10 Arrival at Emstrur Hut 🛖
00:18:15 First Shower of the Trek 🚿
00:19:19 Evening Reflections + BBQ Envy 🐟🔥

📸 GEAR I USE
🎥 iPhone 15 Pro Max - amzn.to/3SKEOPR
I have moved over to the iPhone for most of the ground footage - it actually takes amazing videos and my phone is always close by.

🚁 DJI Mini 4 Pro - amzn.to/3W8MVI5
I absolutely love this drone - it’s small, compact and provides amazing footage in 4K.

📷 GoPro - amzn.to/3W88ok9
I still use the GoPro for the ‘on the go’ shots. It has great stablization, battery life and video quality.

If you have any questions around my gear please feel free to drop a comment in the video below.
(These are affiliate links — at no extra cost to you)