Uploaded September 2025 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
How to Replace a Broken Plastic Mounting Pin on an Intel CPU Cooler
00:00 Repair a broken heatsink cooler
00:07 Twist the push pin
00:15 Dont to break the locking pin
00:35 Remove the inner part
01:20 Replace a broken with a new
It's a common issue: you're working on your computer, and suddenly, a plastic mounting pin on your Intel CPU cooler snaps. These pins, which secure the cooler to the motherboard, can become brittle over time and break without warning. If one is bent, it's often a sign that it could break soon. Fortunately, replacing a broken pin is a simple and inexpensive repair.
Why Do They Break?
Intel's stock CPU coolers use a push-pin design. While convenient, the plastic pins are prone to breaking. The most common reasons for a pin to break include:
Heat cycling: The repeated heating and cooling of the plastic can cause it to become brittle and weak over time.
Physical stress: Bending a pin during installation or removal can cause a hairline fracture that eventually leads to a complete break.
Age: Older plastic is more likely to be fragile and prone to snapping.
Incorrect installation: Applying too much force or using an improper technique can stress the pin beyond its breaking point.
What You'll Need
New mounting pins: You can buy a set of replacement push-pins online or at a computer repair shop. They are often sold in packs of four.
Small flat-head screwdriver: This will help you to gently pry the broken parts out.
Rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth: To clean any thermal paste residue.
New thermal paste: It's crucial to apply a fresh layer after reinstalling the cooler.
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Remove the old cooler: Carefully remove the CPU cooler from the motherboard. You'll need to gently twist the remaining pins to unlock them and then lift the cooler away.
Remove the broken pin: On the back of the cooler's fan assembly, you'll see the broken pin. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently push it out. You may need to press on the broken piece from the front of the cooler.
Insert the new pin: Take a new replacement pin and align it with the hole. Gently push it into place until it clicks. Ensure the new pin is correctly oriented.
Apply new thermal paste: Apply a small, pea-sized dot of new thermal paste to the center of the CPU. This is essential for effective cooling.
Reinstall the cooler: Carefully lower the cooler back onto the CPU, aligning the four pins with the holes in the motherboard.
Secure the cooler: Push down on the four pins, one at a time, until you hear a click. This indicates that the pins have locked into place. You can do this in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) to ensure even pressure.
Alternative Solution: Upgrade Your Cooler
If you find the plastic pins to be a recurring problem, it might be a good time to consider an upgrade. Aftermarket CPU coolers often use a more robust mounting system, such as metal brackets and screws, which provide a more secure and reliable fit.
How to Replace a Broken Plastic Mounting Pin on an Intel CPU Cooler
00:00 Repair a broken heatsink cooler
00:07 Twist the push pin
00:15 Dont to break the locking pin
00:35 Remove the inner part
01:20 Replace a broken with a new
It's a common issue: you're working on your computer, and suddenly, a plastic mounting pin on your Intel CPU cooler snaps. These pins, which secure the cooler to the motherboard, can become brittle over time and break without warning. If one is bent, it's often a sign that it could break soon. Fortunately, replacing a broken pin is a simple and inexpensive repair.
Why Do They Break?
Intel's stock CPU coolers use a push-pin design. While convenient, the plastic pins are prone to breaking. The most common reasons for a pin to break include:
Heat cycling: The repeated heating and cooling of the plastic can cause it to become brittle and weak over time.
Physical stress: Bending a pin during installation or removal can cause a hairline fracture that eventually leads to a complete break.
Age: Older plastic is more likely to be fragile and prone to snapping.
Incorrect installation: Applying too much force or using an improper technique can stress the pin beyond its breaking point.
What You'll Need
New mounting pins: You can buy a set of replacement push-pins online or at a computer repair shop. They are often sold in packs of four.
Small flat-head screwdriver: This will help you to gently pry the broken parts out.
Rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth: To clean any thermal paste residue.
New thermal paste: It's crucial to apply a fresh layer after reinstalling the cooler.
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Remove the old cooler: Carefully remove the CPU cooler from the motherboard. You'll need to gently twist the remaining pins to unlock them and then lift the cooler away.
Remove the broken pin: On the back of the cooler's fan assembly, you'll see the broken pin. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently push it out. You may need to press on the broken piece from the front of the cooler.
Insert the new pin: Take a new replacement pin and align it with the hole. Gently push it into place until it clicks. Ensure the new pin is correctly oriented.
Apply new thermal paste: Apply a small, pea-sized dot of new thermal paste to the center of the CPU. This is essential for effective cooling.
Reinstall the cooler: Carefully lower the cooler back onto the CPU, aligning the four pins with the holes in the motherboard.
Secure the cooler: Push down on the four pins, one at a time, until you hear a click. This indicates that the pins have locked into place. You can do this in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) to ensure even pressure.
Alternative Solution: Upgrade Your Cooler
If you find the plastic pins to be a recurring problem, it might be a good time to consider an upgrade. Aftermarket CPU coolers often use a more robust mounting system, such as metal brackets and screws, which provide a more secure and reliable fit.










![What is Flange Bearing or Pillow Block what inside dismounting and mounting bearing inside
00:00 Pillow Block Bearing
00:14 Mounting Pillow Block
00:30 Release bearing from housing
00:43 Install Pillow Block Bearing
This differeng between Bearing and Pillow Block Bearing
01:19 Lock nut with Bearing
01:50 Rotation bearing
02:01 Bearing structure
Pillow Block Bearings are bearing units that are contained inside a housing unit. The housing provides a rigid and secure positioning while allowing the bearing unit to rotate within a clean contained environment. The housing is bolted to a foundation allowing the outer ring of the bearing to remain stationary while the inner ring rotates. Housed bearings are generally used in light duty applications.
A pillow block bearing (or plummer block) is a pedestal used to provide support for a rotating shaft with the help of compatible bearings & various accessories. The assembly consists of a mounting block which houses a bearing.[1] The block is mounted to a foundation and a shaft is inserted allowing the inner part of the bearing / shaft to rotate.
A pillow block usually refers to a housing with an included anti-friction bearing, wherein the mounted shaft is in a parallel plane to the mounting surface, and perpendicular to the center line of the mounting holes, as contrasted with various types of flange blocks or flange units. A pillow block may contain a bearing with one of several types of rolling elements, including ball, cylindrical roller, spherical roller, tapered roller, or metallic or synthetic bushing. The type of rolling element defines the type of pillow block.
These differ from plummer blocks which are bearing housings supplied without any bearings and are usually meant for higher load ratings and a separately installed bearing. Plummer block bearings are designed for more corrosive environments.
The fundamental application of both types is the same, which is to mount a bearing safely enabling its outer ring to be stationary while allowing rotation of the inner ring. The housing is bolted to a foundation through the holes in the base.
Bearing housings may be either split type or solid type.] Split type housings are usually two-piece housings where the cap and base may be detached, while solid are single-piece housings.] Various sealing arrangements may be provided to prevent dust and other contaminants from entering the housing. Thus the housing provides a clean environment for the environmentally sensitive bearing to rotate free from contaminants while also retaining lubrication, either oil or grease, hence increasing its performance and duty cycle. What is Flange Bearing or Pillow Block what inside dismounting and mounting bearing inside](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QCDovyEb7JM/mqdefault.jpg)