Uploaded December 2022 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
Repairing broken wall clock battery terminals
00:00 Damaged battery terminals
00:15 Open
After cleaning, open the 2 pin mechanical wall clock.
00:25 Close release
Remember the front is up, and the back is down
Prevent the gears from loosening
00:40 Clean up
connector, battery terminal
00:47 Jumper
Connect the thin wires to the new battery terminals
I'm using an old remote battery terminal
01:00 Test
Test with the battery, If the condition of the watch is good
01:22 Close the lid
And adjust the cable wire, don't block the gear part
02:25 add glue
If only necessary, prevent the battery terminals from loosening
03:11 Assemble the wall clock movement
03:21 Adjust Clock wisely 12-12
The corrosion is caused by potassium hydroxide leaking out of alkaline batteries (these are the types of batteries we put in toys, etc).
All batteries are discharged, either through use or by slowly producing hydrogen gas inside the battery.
Then applying pressure, eventually the pressure inside the battery finds its way out through the seal or as the battery ages, the seal corrodes or rusts on the outer layer.
As soon as the first signs of a leak form, it is best to throw the battery away.
But if you don't do it in time, then corrosion can continue to come out and spread out of the battery causing oxidation and corrosion of the terminals and then ruining our devices.
Do not use our fingers to remove the battery.
The potassium hydroxide chemical in the battery can irritate skin (I know because I've touched it before!).
Potassium hydroxide is a caustic substance, which is a chemical that corrodes the terminals and damages the battery.
You may also have seen tiny needle-like crystal structures, which form around the battery and terminals.
It is potassium carbonate and is formed when potassium hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide in the air.
Repair the clock battery socket
What can be done is to solder to the CIRCLE just behind those missing battery pads.
If you can, put a new pin on the connector, get the connection there, and the battery should work again.
Along with that, we also have to solder to the other existing pads, between the connectors for the plus and minus batteries.
Repairs are delicate and delicate and require a bit of patience to do. If the loop pads aren't secure, I usually attach jumper cables to the connection points.
And the battery is directly connected to the quartz watch connector.
Repairing broken wall clock battery terminals
00:00 Damaged battery terminals
00:15 Open
After cleaning, open the 2 pin mechanical wall clock.
00:25 Close release
Remember the front is up, and the back is down
Prevent the gears from loosening
00:40 Clean up
connector, battery terminal
00:47 Jumper
Connect the thin wires to the new battery terminals
I'm using an old remote battery terminal
01:00 Test
Test with the battery, If the condition of the watch is good
01:22 Close the lid
And adjust the cable wire, don't block the gear part
02:25 add glue
If only necessary, prevent the battery terminals from loosening
03:11 Assemble the wall clock movement
03:21 Adjust Clock wisely 12-12
The corrosion is caused by potassium hydroxide leaking out of alkaline batteries (these are the types of batteries we put in toys, etc).
All batteries are discharged, either through use or by slowly producing hydrogen gas inside the battery.
Then applying pressure, eventually the pressure inside the battery finds its way out through the seal or as the battery ages, the seal corrodes or rusts on the outer layer.
As soon as the first signs of a leak form, it is best to throw the battery away.
But if you don't do it in time, then corrosion can continue to come out and spread out of the battery causing oxidation and corrosion of the terminals and then ruining our devices.
Do not use our fingers to remove the battery.
The potassium hydroxide chemical in the battery can irritate skin (I know because I've touched it before!).
Potassium hydroxide is a caustic substance, which is a chemical that corrodes the terminals and damages the battery.
You may also have seen tiny needle-like crystal structures, which form around the battery and terminals.
It is potassium carbonate and is formed when potassium hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide in the air.
Repair the clock battery socket
What can be done is to solder to the CIRCLE just behind those missing battery pads.
If you can, put a new pin on the connector, get the connection there, and the battery should work again.
Along with that, we also have to solder to the other existing pads, between the connectors for the plus and minus batteries.
Repairs are delicate and delicate and require a bit of patience to do. If the loop pads aren't secure, I usually attach jumper cables to the connection points.
And the battery is directly connected to the quartz watch connector.








![What is Flange Bearing or Pillow Block what inside dismounting and mounting bearing inside
00:00 Pillow Block Bearing
00:14 Mounting Pillow Block
00:30 Release bearing from housing
00:43 Install Pillow Block Bearing
This differeng between Bearing and Pillow Block Bearing
01:19 Lock nut with Bearing
01:50 Rotation bearing
02:01 Bearing structure
Pillow Block Bearings are bearing units that are contained inside a housing unit. The housing provides a rigid and secure positioning while allowing the bearing unit to rotate within a clean contained environment. The housing is bolted to a foundation allowing the outer ring of the bearing to remain stationary while the inner ring rotates. Housed bearings are generally used in light duty applications.
A pillow block bearing (or plummer block) is a pedestal used to provide support for a rotating shaft with the help of compatible bearings & various accessories. The assembly consists of a mounting block which houses a bearing.[1] The block is mounted to a foundation and a shaft is inserted allowing the inner part of the bearing / shaft to rotate.
A pillow block usually refers to a housing with an included anti-friction bearing, wherein the mounted shaft is in a parallel plane to the mounting surface, and perpendicular to the center line of the mounting holes, as contrasted with various types of flange blocks or flange units. A pillow block may contain a bearing with one of several types of rolling elements, including ball, cylindrical roller, spherical roller, tapered roller, or metallic or synthetic bushing. The type of rolling element defines the type of pillow block.
These differ from plummer blocks which are bearing housings supplied without any bearings and are usually meant for higher load ratings and a separately installed bearing. Plummer block bearings are designed for more corrosive environments.
The fundamental application of both types is the same, which is to mount a bearing safely enabling its outer ring to be stationary while allowing rotation of the inner ring. The housing is bolted to a foundation through the holes in the base.
Bearing housings may be either split type or solid type.] Split type housings are usually two-piece housings where the cap and base may be detached, while solid are single-piece housings.] Various sealing arrangements may be provided to prevent dust and other contaminants from entering the housing. Thus the housing provides a clean environment for the environmentally sensitive bearing to rotate free from contaminants while also retaining lubrication, either oil or grease, hence increasing its performance and duty cycle. What is Flange Bearing or Pillow Block what inside dismounting and mounting bearing inside](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QCDovyEb7JM/mqdefault.jpg)

