Uploaded November 2017 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
I'm working on a large apothecary chest that has 21 drawers. Just like the smaller one I built, I'll be using half blind lock joints for the drawer joinery. In this video I'll show you how I prepare and setup for the 3 cuts needed in this joint. This joint is very useful in the event that you can't or don't want to cut half blind dovetails.
If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below or shoot me an email.
Kemptson Flat Bottom Grind Blade: amzn.to/2vo44Ec
Website: parillaworks.com
Instagram: instagram.com/parillaworks
A quick step by step:
1. Set fence X distance from the blade, where X is the blades thickness. In this case, my blade is 1/8" thick so I have the fence 1/8" from the blade. DON'T move the fence until you are done with all cuts.
2. Set your blade height to match the thickness of your drawer sides. I like to set it slightly proud by about 1/32".
3. Make all of your drawer front cuts. Run your pieces over the blade with the drawers outside face facing away from the fence. You'll run each piece twice: one for the left and one for the right.
4. Once all of the previous cuts are done, lower the blade so that it just clears the height of the inside tongue you created. In my case, I had the blade set to 3/16" high. Run your drawer fronts with the outside facing up. This removes part of the inside tongue.
5. Set your blade height to just under half your material thickness. You can use set up or gauge blocks. I eye ball it and err on the side of being too low. Run your drawer sides inside face down with the "front" of the piece riding the fence. This should create a dado.
6. Test the fit. The joint will most likely not be fully seated. This is good. Raise the blade slightly and repeat. Keep doing this until the joint is fully seated. After that, the joint is done.
7. For the back piece, I like to use a simple housing joint but this step is up to you.
8. Gluing these pieces together is very simple because they all lock together and stay square. You don't need a bunch of glue; it will all spread out once the joints are clamped together.
Thanks for watching!
Here are products I like to use often in the shop. These are affiliate links. Purchasing through these links helps support the parillaworks channel. Thanks!
Dowelmax Dowelling Jig: amzn.to/2VCNRW9
Flat Bottom Grind Blade: amzn.to/2vo44Ec
Makita Trim Router: amzn.to/2IbBYOW
Dewalt Trim Router: amzn.to/2I9rEqO
Makita Track Saw: amzn.to/38dwyO5
Double Sided Tape: amzn.to/32Nxd82
¼” Spiral Flush Trim Bit: amzn.to/2uS2ZUQ
Narex Chisels: amzn.to/38fP3l7
amzn.to/2VETFi8
amzn.to/3crk34M
Mahoney’s Walnut Oil: amzn.to/2VETNy8
I'm working on a large apothecary chest that has 21 drawers. Just like the smaller one I built, I'll be using half blind lock joints for the drawer joinery. In this video I'll show you how I prepare and setup for the 3 cuts needed in this joint. This joint is very useful in the event that you can't or don't want to cut half blind dovetails.
If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below or shoot me an email.
Kemptson Flat Bottom Grind Blade: amzn.to/2vo44Ec
Website: parillaworks.com
Instagram: instagram.com/parillaworks
A quick step by step:
1. Set fence X distance from the blade, where X is the blades thickness. In this case, my blade is 1/8" thick so I have the fence 1/8" from the blade. DON'T move the fence until you are done with all cuts.
2. Set your blade height to match the thickness of your drawer sides. I like to set it slightly proud by about 1/32".
3. Make all of your drawer front cuts. Run your pieces over the blade with the drawers outside face facing away from the fence. You'll run each piece twice: one for the left and one for the right.
4. Once all of the previous cuts are done, lower the blade so that it just clears the height of the inside tongue you created. In my case, I had the blade set to 3/16" high. Run your drawer fronts with the outside facing up. This removes part of the inside tongue.
5. Set your blade height to just under half your material thickness. You can use set up or gauge blocks. I eye ball it and err on the side of being too low. Run your drawer sides inside face down with the "front" of the piece riding the fence. This should create a dado.
6. Test the fit. The joint will most likely not be fully seated. This is good. Raise the blade slightly and repeat. Keep doing this until the joint is fully seated. After that, the joint is done.
7. For the back piece, I like to use a simple housing joint but this step is up to you.
8. Gluing these pieces together is very simple because they all lock together and stay square. You don't need a bunch of glue; it will all spread out once the joints are clamped together.
Thanks for watching!
Here are products I like to use often in the shop. These are affiliate links. Purchasing through these links helps support the parillaworks channel. Thanks!
Dowelmax Dowelling Jig: amzn.to/2VCNRW9
Flat Bottom Grind Blade: amzn.to/2vo44Ec
Makita Trim Router: amzn.to/2IbBYOW
Dewalt Trim Router: amzn.to/2I9rEqO
Makita Track Saw: amzn.to/38dwyO5
Double Sided Tape: amzn.to/32Nxd82
¼” Spiral Flush Trim Bit: amzn.to/2uS2ZUQ
Narex Chisels: amzn.to/38fP3l7
amzn.to/2VETFi8
amzn.to/3crk34M
Mahoney’s Walnut Oil: amzn.to/2VETNy8
